DrKrazy

Cleaned up the car today (Mainly so I could see out all of the windows). Rigged the original skid plate back on for at least some protection, shorted out the oil sending unit or gauge in the process likes to read in the negative oil pressure now! And since my new clutch has arrived, I decided wtf and went to take PC out for alittle beating on the old clutch. Hit the same place right by my house with a few hills with tall grass hiding big rocks and stumps next to a factory. Already did my first two things of damage, broke the glass in one of my fog lights, bent the other one...luckily just a pair of cheap plastic ones I had sitting around. Choose to steep of a first shot at climbing the hill..going to take awhile to learn this car. You guys were all right though, as soon as I threw it into 4 low I had plenty of power. Actually took some action shots this time, need to drag my wife to pics when we actually go wheeling I don't want to get out the car to do it. Pics don't do the hill justice, and yes I did make it over after backing down and going at it again. Rigged skid plate using pieces of pipe and old intake manifold bolts! Gotta get something real soon: Front View of the hill climb (notice the screwed up outside fog lights from trying to tackle the hill at a different point) Side View and where I had to jump out the drivers door: Blinding sun view, but you see in the background where's it way steep..yea that's what I tried first: Can't wait to get the clutch done, so I can take it someplace up in the mountains and start getting some real pics. Though I did have fun today.

Indeed that's one heck of a job on the painting. Can tell you took your time and did it right. Looks great.

$1340, you reminded me to actually post up what has been spent so far in it's build thread. Still under my original $1500 but sure I will spend alot more.

Since Snowman/Zefy reminded me I thought I would post up here the total spent so far. Alittle high since I need to do some more stuff..but hopefully rest will be cheap or near free since it's all the custom fab bumpers and skid plates from my friend. Sure I will end spending another grand before I know it though. Might have to rename it. $195- Purchase Price + Misc parts to make it run originally, grille, etc. $289 -Lift Kit Shipped $171-15" Pugs Shipped in $120- Set of 235/75 Bronco M/T Tires $27- On a bad CB Radio (at least I got a good antenna) $140- In gaskets, misc hardware, tune up kit, paint etc $200- For the 88' DL Parts Car that I used for my EFI swap and other stuff. $25- Registration/Plates $93- Clutch Set on it's way $44- Good set of 6" Off-Road lights on their way $36- Machined flywheel Brother's shop is getting for me Total so far= $1340 Not sure if I can really count the parts car though, since I have and will get a ton of parts off it, so basically more than pays for itself compared to JY prices for everything I'm taking.

Might sound strange but have you checked the line-up pins in the bellhosing and engine? I know when I went to go stick my JDM in the RX it had a pin stuck in the Engine that was just hitting the same pin on the tranny. Had to pull it back out and tap the pin out of the engine. Then went in like butter.

Here's one of Rick's flattened XT-T...still sad to think about it.

Woot! I can actually post up in here now instead of just drooling over all your guy's rigs. Not as impressive as most the rigs in this thread but getting there. "Project Cheap" 86' D/R 5spd GL Sedan, EFI conversion, 4" AA Lift, 15" Pugs wearing 29" Bronco M/T's, and minus the sway bar. Lots of my blood and hardwork..still have a long ways to go.

Ohh nice scores, that Brat is sweet. Is the GL10 an auto or stick? Guessing auto....

Head Gaskets leaking oil? Are you sure about that? Usally is the cam covers (valve covers) or cam housing. If it seems like it's coming from the front, it's more likely your cam and crank seals behind your timing componets. 160k is pretty young but is due for all these seals/gaskets to be replaced if they haven't been before or might just be due again. If it's really the head gaskets, they are not that bad but you might as well get everything fixed/machined while you have it torn apart and replace all your gaskets, timing componets, water pump, etc if you don't want to have problems for awhile... I will say that if you buy an engine from CCR you'll be trouble free for a long time. Best place to get an engine from. I would actually make sure it's your head gaskets first.

Looking Hot Rick! I love Brats...and that's a nice looking one. I need to see it in person. Once your lifted and ready (and Project Cheap is ready), would love to go out and do some bashing around with ya. Love that Roll Bar

Indeed that was just white primer before the engine actually got painted. Haven't fixed the tranny mount bolt yet, but I don't have a welder..so that will have to wait till one of my friends has time to do it. I did take an air gun to it and it tightened up..must've just got the bolt spinning fast enough for the nut to grab tight for now. So it's good for at least now. I know I know..will get some actual action pictures soon hopefully. Only thing keeping me from taking it off-road for a real test right now is the clutch, one CV (which I have, just haven't swapped it) and a spare tire. Can deal with brakes as they are for now. Would already have a few good pictures but there is no place really close for me to take the car that I know of. And clutch won't hold out for a decent drive.

EGR Pipe fixed, all wiring buttoned up and done..dashboard completely back together...well almost didn't quite finish neighbor came out and complained about me running the car for so long and it was loud in their house..whatever. So I turned it off and quit for the day since I was using the heat of the car to keep me warm while I worked on it. Same neighbor that is now jaming there stereo loud enough so I can clearly hear the Def Leppard he is playing. But I did also take it out and played a bit in a dirt/gravel lot and a hill at the back of it. Still rubbing.. but only at full stuff of the front wheels while turned it seems..might just crank my front struts up some in the front. Also think I used up the last of the clutch screwing around so got to get one on order here, but no money after having to fix the wife's legacy yesterday. Well here is the first pictures of "Project Cheap" not in a driveway!!! Sorry no action shots was only me testing the car out. P.S. No license plates, no other cars..feel free to use either of those pics Shadyirishman.

Wife's legacy stripped it's drift out of the crank (from the idiots who did the timing belts before we bought it). And did some pretty good damage to the crank/pulley/etc. I gave her a ring this morning and she put me onto a kit that S-Wings makes to repair this and make sure it never happens again. Kit worked perfect and the guys down at S-Wings were super helpful, and even hooked me up with an EGR pipe for "Project Cheap". Thanks to both CCR and S-Wings for being so helpful to a guy in need. Wife's legacy is back on the road, and running just as good as ever.

I thought all you really needed was the backing plates, hubs, rotors, and calipers..where is that rear disc conversion guide I saved...So from what I'm hearing it's rear discs (knew that) and new lines. Going to start looking into better brake pads for it I guess too. Would like to get it stopping alot better so my wife can drive it too.

Okay Project Cheap stops like living heck...would be scary if someone cut me (or my wife) off and slammed on the brakes. The whole system is in good shape not worn down really, in adjustment (on the rear), and no leaks. I plan on doing the rear disc conversion, but am curious if that really helped all that much for other people. I can't get the tires to lock-up no matter how hard I try, and stopping distance from even 40 or so is pretty damn far on regular braking...maybe 29's were just too big for these brakes to even think about stopping the car well. So did those rear disc's help out alot? Or what else have you done to improve the braking on your rigs...

Dually rear wheels....now that's gotta be a first? Would love to see that. I'll take a combo of what everyone said, put it in a blender and should have an awesome rig. But for me it will just be my "Project Cheap" since I don't have the cash to even think about half that stuff.

I appreciate it. And Shady man..all you have to do IS ask and I would provide you a better picture (that doesn't show 3 of my cars license plates) for you to use in anyway you wanted. That's the only thing that really ticked me off at all. Showing them here is a totally different story than on Ebay, if any of these Subaru enthusiasts want to hunt me and my family down we would be glad to have you over...With that said I still fully endorse your products and want to see you guys grow just because this community really needs a good fabrication company to feed all of us old gen freaks. Mods:Feel free to delete this thread if you want. He did indeed hold up his end as always, and quickly. Edit: I will get you a picture of just the GL with plates covered with your logo (wonders of photoshop!) and off the driveway tomorrow or friday. How does that sound?

I didn't put this in a PM because I felt that everyone should know this just in case their pictures show up too, which I hope they do not. I also emailed you but you need to take care of this right away or I will through means you won't like. This is all referring to this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4586595263 (copy of email sent) Hey man, I never authorized you to use my pictures on your website let alone use actual pictures of my car(s) and license plates with your ebay sale Item number: 4586595263. That is total disregard for any kind of morale at all, and illegal. I love your lift and products...but you really needed to ask first. I will now ask you to remove the pictures of my car(s) IMMEDIATELY from your ebay sale, you can still use the picture I took of your lift kit for whatever you like. You still should have asked permission first. Sincerely, Keith

Pics are near the end of the "Project Cheap" Build thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42459 I would say about 15-25 man hours total maybe. Had to strip my parts car, strip the harness down and get the right wires (probably the longest part) and make it into a new harness. Then install it all on the car, after stripping off the carb and stuff. I could do it again alot faster now though, I took a very long time with the harness, an FSM, and the Conversion Guide to make sure it would be right the first time. Is way easier than I thought it would be when I started it. Snowman did an awesome job writing the Conversion guide, and none of the work is really that hard.

Haha well after I resealed the oil pump in "Project Cheap" it was still ticking like crazy...so I basically did the same thing (was half pissed off too) except not driving it. Wrapped it up to 6-7k and held it there for a few minutes until it went away. Sometimes a good wrapping up is what it takes to get those lifters pumped up I think....or I was just beating the heck out of the engine and it decided to quit out of coincidence.

Kinda hard to explain or take pics of since I already did it. But what I actually did was cut slits in the wells about 2-3" apart from eachother...then proceeded to bend all that metal inwards with a pair of channel locks and whack it flat with the BFH. Made for nice edges, and no super sharp cut metal to tear up my arms or tires. Was taught this by a body guy, though there are places that I just straight out cut with my sawzall. And other places that just just got hammered to heck with my sledge. But I had to do some major fitting for my tires, thought it was okay until I started flexing it and stuffing tires into the wheel wells...then it was more cutting and bashing..think I should be okay now. Will prob still rub at certain places when the front tires are stuffed up in the wells and turned all the way.

Well hehe none of my cars has to go through emissions...I live in Golden BUT I used to live in Bailey, and alot of family still lives up there and always will. So technically I have 2 legal addresses. One here, one in Bailey which is actually my wife's parents (which is Park County=No emissions). So I keep all my cars registered up there. Is cheaper, don't have to pass emissions, and I know the lady at the DMV in Bailey fairly well since my Brother was her mechanic for 10+ years. So I have my ways .

So it's okay to plug the EGR pipe? This car will never have to pass emissions or anything, and seems to be running fine without the tube. If so I could use two of those plugs, one for the head, one for the manifold. Also BIG news: I figured out how to make that code 45 for the kick-down go away...just rehook up the kick down relay, give it IGN power on the B&W wires and hook the kick down control wire to one side, and the kick down monitoring wire to the other side of the relay (you could use any relay). Took it for a drive and my little check engine led went off, and there is now no codes in the computer! Woot, this makes me very happy. For some strange reason it also took away my hesitation at lower RPM's when you gun it? Maybe it tricks the computer into adding more fuel for the bog???? Either way that seems to gone. Also figured out that you can run a switched power to the A/C control wire on the ECU and make your car idle up a few hundred RPM's when you want. That might be nice for rock crawling etc....defintely wiring mine to a switch. Once I put the switch in and put the last cover back on the dashboard this EFI conversion is DONE!

Still smoking just a tad, more I drive it more it seems to clear up...so you were probably right yesterday about it just being junk burning off. Also cleaned the heck out of the TB today and didn't see it smoking at all after that. If it was it's not enough for me to be concerned about it anymore. Think I might have a problem with IAC still, idling alittle low most of the time even after I adjust it. Will track that down later..taking the rest of the day off from the car. My brother's guess is that it's burning off the carbon build up from the jacked up carb, and now that's it's running a ton better with the EFI that it will clear up after I put miles on it.

Exactly, it's really not that bad..just takes some patience, alittle cursing, and you'll have it done. After you do it a few times, you'll be able to do it in no time...had to change that hose on every single subaru I've owned pretty much right away.