DrKrazy

Well after losing my job on Thursday, I knew I was going to have a problem with getting this project done without any real income. But I needed to burn off some stress and pound/bend/cut and weld things...so why not this OBW? Aftering getting the important things done like getting my resume updated and out to a few places I went to work on the OBW yesterday and today. Spent alot of time trying to get everything as close to the driver's side shape and measurements. Had a fold in the radiator support I couldn't get out no matter what...so I cut it out and spread it to match measurements off the drivers side, and weld in supports. Pounded out the fender and hood, took care of the airbags/light for now, and reinstalled everything I could + a few things I shouldn't of bothered with yet like the demolished passenger head light but it still works!. At this point I could get a windshield installed and drive it legally...well need to get the passenger side timing cover, a new timing belt, and put it all back together. So with a little patience...didn't have much so alot of pounding, some cutting and welding and it's actually amazing what I turned out with. Not saying it's great, still plan on replacing everything that needs it when I have the money but it looks a hell of alot better than it did . Updated pics in the resurrection site...yesterday and today's work on page 3 Here:http://subaru.kacsh.com/96legacy/Page2.html Look at the pics in the link to really see how good things are turning out. Not bad for a guy who normally doesn't do body work. Structure seems pretty straight now, just need to get fender, hood, headlight, bumper cover, etc... And a sample of course: Night I got it: Today:

Well now that I got it running, still need to pick up a new timing belt, some cover pieces. I thought I would get to looking at/working on the front end damage to see how bad it really is...or isn't. Pulled off the fender and though it looked bad, after just a few hours of pounding and prying I actually got it pretty straight. Granted I'm no body guy by any means but I think with a little more work I'll be able to throw on a new fender, bumper cover, hood, and do my best with replacing the headlights etc. So guess I'm going to try and fix this car. Biggest hurdles will of course be the airbags, I don't think I would sell the car so maybe I can get blanks someplace and disable the light somehow??? Or maybe I'll get lucky and find some cheap ones and have them installed. Want to fix this car for as cheap as possible! Anyways I updated the page I'm keeping pics of this resurrection on: http://subaru.kacsh.com/96legacy/96legacy.html Little sample of how it's going: Before today: After today: Before: After: Still lots of work to go but hey I think it's worth it, just gotta keep it really cheap!

Should be able to make, just a bit late depending on when I get off of work. Now just to decide which of the 4 Subarus to bring....I know the free wrecked but still runs and drives OBW! Will probably show in the lifted sedan, it's always an attention getter. All us old school guys parking in a corner again???

Well got the new cam gear on, lined up the marks and threw on the old belt (has a small cut in it but good enough for testing)...hooked up the jumper box to it, battery was dead from sitting for the last 5 month and drumroll please........ It didn't start, sounded okay was cranking fine...but just wouldn't fire. Just when my Brother and I were about to call it dead I looked down and noticed I forgot to plug the MAS back in. Plugged it in, gave it some good cranking (had flooded out) and pop pop later it came to life!! !! Running like crap but hadn't been started in like 5-6 months. Give it a couple mins of idling and start revving it up to listen for any bad noises (valves smacking or anything). Starts to clear up and run better and better as time goes on. No noticeable noises, so put it back together just enough to drive it. Ran fine **may** have a slightly bent valve and I mean slight if it is, guessing it's just blowing crap out/old gas. Otherwise ran and drove great! Has some surpising power (to me, I'm an old school guy) and drove perfectly straight....gotta replace the timing belt and some cover pieces and it's good I do believe. Now just gotta decide if I fix the car, or yank the engine/ECU/Wiring and put it in the lifted rig... Anyways seems I got lucky, it still runs! Oh and my brother looked up the records, and the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/pullies/cam & crank seals/O2 sensor/Full tune up including wires were all done at 199k...now has 209k on it. Only has 600 miles on it's last oil change too!

Well spent the morning calling around to find a cheap cam gear. Luckily I gave the guys down at S-Wings a ring and got hooked up with one! Gotta love those guys. So after running around and picking that up from them I came home and started ripping things apart to get a better look at the damage and get set to put the new camgear on and hope this baby runs. Well got to be too cold in the 30 degree weather and wind to get real far but tomorrow should be nicer. Got everything torn down to the timing belt, took out the airfilter box and some other stuff to get a good look at the frame rails. Good news there, there appears to be no frame damage what so ever. It was actually the ABS pump that hit the timing cover and broke the cam gear. Added much more daylight pics of the damage in the link in my last post. Will put some here for everyone's opionions...keeping my fingers crossed that it will actually start tomorrow, if not oh well still a free car. Even if it does have bent valves I'm thinking the car is very easily fixed minus the airbags. Any body guys out there have a look at the bigger pics in the link in my last post and let me know what you think. Better pics of the damage, very front corner above the bumper took the brunt of the damage: Couple pics of the frame line/under the airbox/canister...looks perfect: The stub of the cam gear & it's shards I pulled out from the under the covers: Oh and picture to show you just how clean and well maintained this car really is, was amazed while I was taking things apart. Just remember this is a 209k car... Wish me luck tomorrow for this thing to run!

Ok well after telling my Brother I passed on the car a few weeks ago...what do you know.....it's now sitting in my driveway. He made enough cash off the second set of wheels and tires to make his money back out of the car, and needed it gone. So now it's mine got it for free, little more damaged than what it was before (because my wife forgot the emergency brake was on when I went to push it up my driveway.. ). 209k, interior is perfect minus the airbags..and I am technically the 2nd owner now (3rd if you include my brother who never signed the title). It's defintely a 2.5 so back to my original question is there anyway to check the engine without replacing the broken cam gear??? If not is this the intake or exhaust camgear that's broken? Now for some pics, sorry in advance it was way dark out by the time I got it home, have more/better pics here: http://subaru.kacsh.com/96legacy/96legacy.html The damage that happened in the crash that broke the cam gear, really not that bad: Another view from the engine compartment: Here is the view of how slightly it got broke, belt still intact: And the damage on the tailgate from the push, moved it about a foot sliding on the snow in my driveway, then my pushbar on the lifted rig popped over the bumper and into the tailgate , then my wife gets out and says sorry forgot I still had the emergency brake on..small dent under the brake light was there, along with the one on the driver's side (not pictured):

Too stripped? Too Rusted?....a pair of vice grips might be your best friend..keep that in mind. Have had to use vice grips on brake lines and bleeders many times, sucks to have to do it that way but can save your day.

Tons of stuff to do, skiing, boarding, checking out the sites. I've been all over the US and still feel Colorado is one of the most beautiful states (biased of course since I live here too). Maybe us locals can have a mini meet while your out here. If you do want to take the Coors Tour drop me a PM and I should be able to get you into a V.I.P. Tour. I work for the company that does all of Coors Marketing, and should be able to pull some strings.

Blah! One of my neighbor's just dragged (well I pulled it out for him) his 88' 200 out of his backyard last weekend and junked it...should've said something earlier Russ! Pretty sure it went to Colorado Auto Parts...was a red 88 4-door if anyone heads that way.

+1 But I will also stick to my true belief... "It's your car do what you want with it, that's what makes it your car"

88 RX Coupe= Newer JDM EA82T engine that was totally resealed, but has an oil cooler. 80 PSI when cold, 25+ at warm idle, 45-60 PSI at 3k rpm cruising (depending on how hard I was boosting before I get to cruising speed, as I keep it at cruise it will go up as the oil cools a tad from the cooler). 86 Lifted GL Sedan= 160k on an EA82 that was carb'd now FI..original oil pump leaked good, had terrible oil pressure all the time like below 10-15 PSI even at 4k rpms. Put in a brand new oil pump and seals...will peg (100 PSI) the aftermarket gauge when cold, 25-30 PSI or so at warm idle, 60-70 while cruising.

On the lifted rig, I run some Bronco M/T 235/75/R15's (Cooper Tire) during the summer, were cheap tires I got for next to nothing from my Brother's shop. For the winter I run some WinterForce 235/70/R15's because the M/T's suck in the ice and snow, I paid a good amount for these but they rock in the snow. My Summer Tires: Winter Tires WinterForce:

Will be pushing it with my work schedule on Sunday's, so not sure I will make it in time. What route are you going to take exactly if you know? I may need to just try and catch up after I get off work (if I get off in any kinda of time to catch you guys). **That's a laugh I couldn't catch a turtle with the lifted rig** (RX has the super street performance tires which do not go well with a turbo and snow )

I have 310 watts of forward light (minus the headlights of course, they suck anyways)..A pair of 100watt's on the bumper and my yellow 55watt ones up top. All ebay specials, the yellow ones are actually quite awesome in the dark makes things easy to see on the sides of the trail and they don't reflect off the snow nearly as bad as white lights. Here's a pic on a gloomy snowy day, so they look kinda dim, but just compare them to the side markers which you can barely tell are on.

Twin Stick D/R EA81/EA82 (Seperate Lo Range from the 4wd stick = LO Range FWD) First off this mod will give you the ability to run Lo Range in FWD! Good for turning big tires on the way to the trail, and real handy while on the trail when you need some torque but can sacrifice 4wd for a moment I.E. Hill climbs... First find your Hi-Lo linkage, it's on the passenger side (driver's side on EA81's) of the tranny near the bellhousing: Take out that linkage bar to get a start. You can see in my picture which way is hi and lo. In other words pull towards the passenger compartment for hi, pull towards the front for lo. So you can see it removed and the joint just hanging there. Take the linkage bar and do what you like with it (you may use it in your install). I had already set this up once, but you will need to figure out: Where you want your second stick? How you want to connect the linkage? Which will lead to needing to put a hole in the floor, and laying out the new linkage for measurement, mounting ideas, etc. The following is just how I did mine and is just to help get an idea on how it can be done. My parts list included (Just remember I'm the type of guy who uses what he has laying around): Old steel curtain rod with thread ends A couple inch coupler An L bracket I cut to a straight piece of metal Two bolts that threaded into the ends of the curtain rod A random 14mm bolt that threads into the joint on the tranny A spare blue 4wd handle A C bracket for holding electrical conduit Some wire, glue, welder, other misc things: The linkage really runs inside the tranny tunnel, so I needed to offset it to bring it into the passenger compartment. Did some measuring and guessing and drilled a hole through two layers of floor (because of where I choose). The curtain rod happened to very close to length I wanted, and I needed to extend it a tad/plus put in small section that will be part of lock idea. I measured the distance inbetween the layers of floor and cut myself a coupler a tad longer. I then welded the coupler in place. This coupler also serves as a stick point in the body that makes it stick in Hi or Lo by catching on the holes going through the floor. I egg shapped the holes so all you have to do is pull it towards you a tad to get past the "lock". I then measured the distance from my hole in the floor to the link on the tranny to get my offset bar length and where to drill the bolt holes in the bar. I drilled out the bolt hole for the link on the tranny (I messed up the first time which is why there is two holes on the link side, helped for adjustment though). I then drilled another partial hole for my new linkage bar. I drilled it just enough to stick the curtain rod in it, then drilled a smalled hole through the middle of that for the bolt. This just made it easier to weld. Curtain rod fitted and bolted I then tightened up the curtain rod, and welded it up for good strength. I then worked some magic with a couple bolts, welder, and glue to make myself a geniune Subaru 4wd handle that screws into the other end of the linkage! Gave the likage a coat of paint, and took a break. Once the paint dried, not that it matter since it just flaked off anyways..I went to putting it all together. Put the new linkage through the floor and bolted it to the link on the tranny with a random 14mm head bolt I found that worked perfect. Once that was done I moved inside. I already had it running between my CB and console so I just kept it that way. You can see the almost finished picture here, will explain the rest next. So I used a C clamp to hold it in place loosely, threaded in my home made handle, and wrapped up the bar with some electrical tape just to make it look a tad better. I then moved on to moving my lo light switch (yes I like to see the lo light up on my dashboard). Your Lo light switch is located underneath your shifter. Just pull off your shifter and piece around it and you will locate it. I simply extended the wires and hung the switch on the side of console above the new linkage. I then got tricky and used an old flat blade tip for a screwdriver and did some moving and marking then welded it into place on the linkage to trigger the Lo light. In the Hi position: In the Lo position (notice the little black button got pushed in to trigger the light): I tested it all out and put my CB back on to hide the Lo light switch and just because that's where it belongs. So I ended up with a finished project that looks like this: BEWARE! You can break front axles fairly easily with big tires and this mod...just don't go dropping your clutch for fun! Enjoy your new driveability with big tires and running the trails in front wheel drive Lo!

I get off work around 10am-11am (maybe earlier if I work my rump roast off) on Sunday's if that what it takes to get us together for a wheelin'/snow run meet (unless someone had something else in mind). Don't work Saturday's most of the time so with any luck that is also open.

1) Only dealt with this problem on my wife's legacy, but it was a bad motor and whole track assembly (chewed the cable on it up, thus killing the motor also). There should be a way to manually retract the seatbelt into the safe position by popping off a cover someplace and winding it up. Don't know for sure on the XT6's though. 2)Bad resistor pack most likely, common problem. 3)Should be a nut holding your wiper arm on, betcha it's just loose. You'll need to put the wiper near it's off position and tighten the nut where the arm attaches to the motor, test wiper and adjust position if necessary. Happened on many cars of mine, and friends this has always been the problem and a very simple fix. The wiper arm should have some splines on it that could've gotten stripped to where it won't hold, only ran into that once (not on a Subaru) and just tightened it down a little rougher than normal (she still drives that pos ford escort too)

We've been seen together many times, think I could dig out pictures from back to 2004 (when I went to my first meet, of course Shawn was there in a truck ). He also happened to walk up behind me at the dealership parts department awhile back..always cool to see other members at the Subaru dealership!..oh and here's proof we are not the same person. (Highly doubt Shawn wants my 2 kids, wife, etc....you can have my bills though Shawn ) There's me then Shawn....Then Jeff, Jerry, Rick, Tom, Jordan, Eric, and Zek...damn think I got everyone's names down Although if we ever see Jordan at one of our small meets again, going to start thinking he's the crazy one.....j/k remember he came from TN to a Barbaque, gotta give a guy credit for that! Anyways I think a monthly thing would be cool, sure I would be able to make it to some then! Finally got the RX out of in front of the 12' snow hump blocking part of my driveway, so back to all cars on the road.

Was towed about a total of 3 blocks, from my Brother's shop to his house..was delivered to his shop on a flat bed right after the accident. Not too worried about the trans, was aware of that before we towed to his house.

I'm pretty sure it was a 2.5 , it is an auto and thought those were all 2.5's in 96. But I also closely looked at the engine and damage and was pretty sure it was a DOHC....was not the same as my wife's 94' EJ22 so I assumed it was a 2.5. Was not really looking for myself since my Brother said he was going to keep it...here two weeks later he just called and asked me if I wanted it. If it has a chance of being a EJ22 then I gotta go over there tomorrow and check, if it's a 2.5 is there anyway to check it without getting the parts and timing belt?. If I did fix it I probably wouldn't put the airbags back in unless I needed to sell it, plz no lectures would be just for a cheap driver to and from work. I have 2 *Toy* Subarus I drive now...time for just a daily driver to be added to the group. *Toy* meaning neither one of them should really be driven as a daily driver, RX needs to be restored and the lifted sedan..well I hate driving it as a daily.

Ok some questions and opinions needed... First off my Brother is a master mechanic, and this is one of his very loyal customers that owns a few Subarus. He recently got in a minor accident with his 96' Outback (He is the original owner of it too!). It took a good hit to the front passenger corner. Not leaking anything amazingly enough but was enough of an impact to hit the timing cover and bust one of the cam sprockets into pieces. This is the 2.5L I'm pretty sure... so think the engine survived? The owner did say it stopped running immediately and hasn't been turned over since. Very well taken care of car, Brother has done all the work to it since it was 2 years old and has all the shop records. It has over 200k on it but looks brand new inside out (except for the wreck)...only really bad things are that it's an auto, engine might be toast?? and both airbags blew, and of course the damage. I can pick it up for a couple hundred (really a trade for my old laptop) if I decide I want it, comes with two sets of alloy wheels and good tires on all of them. Have seen it, and drove it actually...while being towed behind my Brother to his house everything electrical and brakes were in perfect working condition, didn't even pull. And yes I know should have got pics to help out, best thing though because of the nature of the wreck the title is still totally clear, no salavage. What do you guys/gals think? Is it worth trying to fix so I can put my RX and Lifted Sedan away for fun and not daily drivers? Do I pick it up and part it out (if engine is good stick it in my lifted sedan)?

If you do some searches you'll find tons of pics of installs. Lot's of WRX intercooled EA82T's out there. I run one off an MR2 so mine would be pretty different. Just got to get creative and it won't be a big deal. Make sure you install a recirc valve though, the EA82T's don't seem to like the straight blow off valves much from what I have read and seen. Doesn't hurt to install an IC Sprayer, IC Fan, and Radiator Sprayer too....whoops my secret is out Edit: Here's the most recent picture I could find of mine (this is an MR2 IC w/Fan and Sprayer): Some really old ones on my old site that I haven't updated in like oh a year or more...setup has changed a bit since those old pics on that site. http://subaru.kacsh.com/rxbuild.html

Had no idea I was so popular , must be the lifted rig.... I don't need a month notice, and would've made this last one if it wasn't for my damn hot water heater (then I got called into work at 11am anyways). I even spent the Friday before that cleaning the IAC on the lifted rig with alcohol and q-tips (made a huge difference). I can be kinda of flake sometimes but you guys gotta remember I have a wife and two kids, plus I'm on call 24/7/365 so those alone make me flaky. Barring any unforseen circumstances I will make the next one, the last one looked like it was a blast.... ~Keith

Guessing the vacuum line to the white canister (which should be on the passenger side firewall in the engine compartment) came un-done....

88' RX Coupe shows 95k or so on the odo (really has about 215k on the body, cluster was replaced before I bought it but mileage was written on the door when they did it) 86' Lifted GL Sedan 166k 88' Parts RX 245k Wife's 94' Legacy 122k