el_freddo

Springs will interchange. The only difference will be the rating of the spring and possibly the final ride height being a tad higher if they’re an uprated spring. If it levels your car out left to right it’s worth a go I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Other difference is aftermarket KYB is a gas strut and OEM genuine units are KYB oil filled. Gas filled struts naturally sit higher than oil filled struts. If a gas strut fails it collapses, if an oil filled strut fails it will leak and continue to perform its duties with diminishing performance as it loses oil. Cheers Bennie

An aftermarket head unit will always create a tiny spark when connecting the battery. Other than that the fuel pump issue is either a poorly operating alternator, old wiring with resistance points or a battery that isn’t coping as well as it used to. Lastly could be some sketchy wiring done by a pervious owner. You’d really need to check out if anything was modified before your ownership. Eg: I have a Gen1 RS turbo Liberty (Legacy over your way) that someone used the door switch circuit as the earth for the aftermarket head unit. Whenever someone opens a door the headunit turns off as the circuit becomes active. Classic (*facepalm*). Cheers Bennie

Why not replace the rear springs? There are threads on here about suitable models to find parts from. I’ve got a set of early ‘90’s civic front springs in the rear of my L series. Stiffened up the rear end nicely and allowed more load carrying which is what I wanted. I’m not sure if this would lift the rear of your 2wd significantly as I don’t know how much lower the 2wd rear sprints were vs 4wd rear springs. Spring perch is in the same spot essentially with the change in lower mount height. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

Interesting… check that you don’t have: - a snapped spring - slipped lower spring perch - crushed lower shock mount - issues with the top spring hat/mount. Other than that I’m out of ideas. If you’re in the rust belt you’ll have to discuss with someone local to you as we don’t salt roads or get snow like you do over there from what I’ve read. Cheers Bennie

G’day @libertyherb123! Checked the fuses under the bonnet? There might be some over near the battery (from memory) in a black box. Under the lid will tell you what fuse and relay is responsible for what. Did the fan ever work for you? Silly question but maybe this car is new to you and you’re checking through your list of issues to fix… Salada mate! Bennie

Measure the shocks from the spring perch to the lower mount bolt. There’s a difference between the 2wd and 4wd rear shock units. Your issue may not be a spring - it could be a 4wd shock that’s been installed somewhere along the way. Cheers Bennie

If it’s not going about 10 then weld the moustache bar mounts to the chassis rails. Same for the front mount on the rear diff. Fab up a bracket or even use two tabs that pick up the one bolt front mount above the diff. Tip: the hole on one side is larger than the other. 4wd swing arms will swap right in. Bit of a bastard if you don’t want to remove the three retainer bolts on the outer arm. These will mess with toe in and camber. If our bush not necessary to stress about them. Cheers Bennie

Been done before. May need to add captive nuts to hold the moustache bar mounts to the body. Other than that it’s a bolt in operation from what I’ve seen. If you’ve got the donor it wouldn’t be hard to work out what’s different between the two. The whole rear K frame needs to be swapped in and if you’re not running a lift you might need to swap fuel tanks if there’s no “dent” for the rear diff to sit in. Cheers Bennie

Where’s @GeneralDisorder these days? I miss his blunt input on things like this. Buy an ‘80’s Chevy he’d say! I hope he’s ok. Cheers Bennie

I got my cam sensor wires the wrong way around on an engine conversion/bastardisation and it ran extremely poorly. Swapped those around and it purred like a subi kitten… This was on a 2002 harness. Cheers Bennie

Ignition switch can be unscrewed from the back of the barrel and unplugged from the loom to bench test it. You’ll have to work out what wire is what though as I can’t remember off the top of my head. From memory the white or blue is permanent power and is the one to always reference as you check the other wires. You’ll work it out though. Cheers Bennie

Maybe a bad ignition switch. Could be some bad earths or a dying fusible link.

That’s a standard tube on just about every charcoal canister. The Gen1 Liberty has the same sort of setup too. Did that sensor end up solving you passing your smog test @Craigar? Cheers Bennie

Nope. You’re all good. One cam is operating valves when you line up the timing belt. The pistons are half way up the cylinders so valves etc can’t hit. Cheers Bennie