el_freddo

Got a part number on it to cross reference?

So pull the steering column out if it’s going to save you pulling the whole dashboard out. That could work. Still a huge effort. Cheers Bennie

^ agreed. At most, do the head gaskets and move on with the conversion. Definitely do a cam belt kit including all front seals and check the torque on the screws that hold the backing plate on the oil pump. Some would say leave the rear main seal, I say replace it while you have easy access. Reseal the air oil separator plate and swap it for a metal one if it’s plastic. Enjoy the conversion. It’s a good process to learn about and the result is awesome, I think you’ll love it. Cheers Bennie

No harm in trying a new coil. Having spark is positive. That voltage regulator pump too much into the system will kill things so it’s worth getting that sorted before anything else new is swapped in. Cheers Bennie

Bit late to the party, I don’t usually check this far down the forum home page! I’ve got my ECU controlling the fans in my EJ22 converted L series and it works a treat. Actually, I’ve got a three way switch that intercepts the ECU trigger wire so that I can choose to have ECU controlled, off (river crossings) and ON (sand or hard work). Had it this way for well over 10 years! All the ON switch does is provide a solid earth connection to trigger the relay for the thermo fans. Cheers Bennie

Azdave, the PS pump mounts beside the AC compressor. You would need a different set of fan belts to run the pump, otherwise everything else remains as it is. It’s been too long for me to remember how the EA82 PS pump mounted to the block exactly. You should be able to get a complete kit and fit it to your L series. The PS rack will use the same mounts as the manual rack. I can’t remember if there’s any differences in the rack ends between PS and manual racks, again, been a long time since I had a manual rack in an L series. Cheers Bennie

Points or electronic ignition? Electronic ignition modules can die from time to time. But sometimes they die because the coil dies and takes out the ignition module with it. If it’s a points system, check that they’re working as they should and that they’re correctly gapped. I don’t know what that inch measurement is, nor do I know what is the tolerance for the shaft play. If shaft play was an issue in the dizzy, you’d experience other frustrating running issues such as inconsistent running, and probably an idle that’s all over the shop too. Hopefully this helps. Cheers Bennie

That’s a standard 13 inch tyre size for our brats/brumby?? They look awesome! Hoping we might be able to get them over here some day! Mind you, I’ll be looking at road based treads for my brumby with the next set of tyres I get. I love that comparison with the Tonka Toy 4wd, classic! Your beast could probably go just as far as that toy with a rear locker. Cheers Bennie

Those kits aren’t cheap to get complete these days either Gazza - if you can find one! Last I saw was a set that went for $au1G! That’s nuts. Shove some braided lines on and you won’t believe the braking feel compared to what you had originally. I say my brumby with discs all round and braided lines has better brake feel than a 2000 EJ251 RX Liberty with slotted front rotors! Well worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

What an adventure! I’m not entirely sure how the leaf spring but you like that, either way not good! The build is looking good! What tyres are they? I’m not sure if they’ll be available over here, I’m keeping an eye out as I’ll need a new set of tyres for my lifted L once the five stud conversion is completed. Keep up the good work! Looks like you’ve still got a lot of work to do with the door cards being out of the vehicle atm. Cheers Bennie

Ensure you have all the bolts out. It should tap apart with a little bit of effort after this. Some times having the block sitting with the cylinders vertical and tapping the top half upwards can work well. I’ve pulled an EA82 and EJ block or two apart, but not the EA81 specifically. Double check there’s not a bolt missed as this will stuff you up big time and then lock will never split. Cheers Bennie

Two things come to mind for me - first was the EFI pump dampener is dead or non existent. Or the pump itself is not performing properly. The other thought - and it’s a bit of a long shot - is the coolant temp sensor doing some funny stuff. It starts ok? Here’s another thought - these have a knock sensor? It could be on the way out or picking up something else that’s not detonation, holding power back. Cheers Bennie

Ah bugger mate! Epic thread dig though, I reckon this one is a record! I hope you found the info you were looking for. Cheers Bennie

You could try using some rust buster in the bores - this might free up the engine once all cylinders are done. Hammerbarn stocks the product of that name. It’s good stuff! Cheers Bennie

One of these usually does the job for me. A bit fiddly setting it up and getting the right angle for it to work best on, otherwise it’s the first thing I go for! https://www.repco.com.au/tools-equipment/automotive-tools/engine-drivetrain-service-tools/mechpro-red-valve-spring-compressor-mpst135/p/A9400120?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&region_id=100245&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC9C92i3cTaz1a0-V0xqSruda0Yl6&gclid=CjwKCAiAneK8BhAVEiwAoy2HYaj0UcKxCd10d6BEEWlaRVPPl-sNAEkiDo4ePdzXnmsgX350epdpXBoCUDIQAvD_BwE On special at the moment too by the look of it. Just make sure it’s big enough to put the head inside the “G” bit to clamp either end of the valve setup. The pic doesn’t give an idea of size however it’s the exact design of the one I steal from my dad when I need it. Cheers Bennie