el_freddo

Awesome trip Tod! Not knowing the area at all, I can only imagine the distance and terrain covered. I love the comments from those that saw you up the top where ppl with jeeps wouldn’t consider going. Nothing unusual with that, it’s the same over here - more prissy 4wd owners than those that use them for what they’re designed to do. Cheers Bennie

Hang on, do you have an ECU that’s running a Weber carb fed engine? Asking as all factory mechanical carb EA82s over in Oz lack an ECU. Hence why I said yours wouldn’t be able to show codes - you need to go old school on this one! Check your fusible links and the fuses under the dashboard. One of them might be dead. Cheers Bennie

G’day Highstone Soobie, Only way to tell timing is to remove the covers and check. When the crank is lined up, one cam will be lined up and the other at 6 o’clock. It’s good that the belts are tight for a start. Since your L series is a carb model, you won’t have the green connectors for codes. That’s only for SPFI, MPFI and MPFI turbo models. I can’t remember if the carb fuel pump primes momentarily when you first turn the key to the ON position. You should be able to hear it. Alternatively, pull the fuel in hose at the carb, put a bottle on the end and turn the ignition to the ON position. Check the bottle for fuel. If none there, crank the engine over as this should tell that module thingo to operate the fuel pump. If there’s still no fuel you have an issue with the fuel pump, blocked filter or that fuel cut module. I’d first try bypassing that module temporarily. I can’t remember which wires to loop together to make the fuel pump operate with the key in the ON position. Once that’s established, next would be filter and then the pump. I’m also assuming you have enough fuel in the tank for the pump to pick it up. Cheers Bennie

Check the RHS timing belt. If that’s snapped you’ll have weird symptoms. The LHS timing belt spins the LHS cam, oil pump and the dizzy, while the right is only responsible for the RHS cam. Check that belt and get back to us. I’m out of ideas otherwise (for now). Cheers Bennie

Did you fit one cam belt, rotate the crank one rotation then fit the second belt? If not, this is your issue. I learned this the hard way. Your engine is probably running on one bank/side while the other does nothing. It will start with difficulty, and be completely gutless to drive. Cheers Bennie

Apparently in the ‘60s ppl wanted their V8 fords to be capable of “high revs”. Apparently the kids back then liked to see over 4000 rpm on the tacho, but the engines didn’t like it so apparently Ford modified the tacho so it looked like the engine would rev that hard when in fact it was still within what Ford considered safe operating. There’s always a way around things. It’s also why modern temp gauges don’t move once “at temp” until something catastrophic occurs and it sky rockets. Cheers Bennie

Ah yeah I forgot about this EA82 detail - the codes flash from the LED on the side of the ECU. EJ onwards the CEL does all the flashing and the ECU LED was deleted. Can you tell what I play with these days? As for the bright green plug, its buddy could be taped to the wiring loom if it’s not been used. Stranger things have happened… Cheers Bennie

To get the codes you need to connect two plugs above the driver’s feet. I can never remember if it’s the green or black plugs. Then put the ignition into the on position, watch the check engine light. The CEL will flash long and short dashes. Long are multiples of ten where as short are just ones. Example: long long long short long short short = code 31 and code 12 Once all codes have been displayed the ECU will cycle through the codes again until you turn the ignition off. Don’t forget to unplug the test connectors. As for a code reference list, I recall there being a good one in the Haynes manual. It’s been ages since I had to play with the EA82 codes. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate, I’ll check out those links. Cheers Bennie

Could be the dust plate under the bell housing. On manuals it’s a small rectangular plate, I’m unsure about the setup on autos. Maybe something levered this into the flywheel. Other than that I’m all out of ideas atm. Can you tell us under what conditions you hear the noise? Eg: at idle/under loads/at or above a certain speed. Is it rotational dependant? Rough location of the noise? Cheers Bennie

Depends on the splines on the axles that the races live on. These could be different between the axles. You could try just swapping the inner cups but this usually results in a noisy cv joint. The 25 spline shafts are no thicker than the 23 spline shaft, just the spline count changes and the diff stub axle is thicker on the 25 spline units. You could swap your gearbox for the MPFI box with the 25 spline diff stub axles… Cheers Bennie

I need to do this for our Gen3 Liberty - the cruise control no longer works. Not complaining at 500,000km. My thought was to pull one from a lower km unit at a wreckers and swap them over - let the airbag power down for several hours before pulling the airbag out to access the steering wheel retainer nut. @lmdew - are you based in Hawaii? For some reason I thought you were on the mainland… Cheers Bennie

Sounds about right. You’ll find many circuits on the L series are earth switched. If you wire up some driving lights “the normal way” you’ll find your driving lights turn on when the ignition is off and the cab switch that controls them is on. Cheers Bennie

You wouldn’t happen to have a link to the tailgate glass replacement rubber seal? If someone made the rear fixed glass rubber seals for the MY wagons I reckon they’d make a killing. I’d definitely take one for each side, maybe two if another project comes through. Cheers Bennie

Look up Geci and see what you come up with. He might do different colours on request. I don’t know as I haven’t looked into it. Cheers Bennie

One can only hope! I’ll probably die waiting… Cheers Bennie

If they seal I wouldn’t stress about it. Common for gaskets not to be a perfect fit like this. If it was the other way around where the hole in the gasket was smaller than the exhaust port or exhaust pipe I’d be concerned. If they were cheap enough throw them in and see how they go. Cheers Bennie

Were these resistors in the ECU? Cheers Bennie

Yeah I get that you want to run the auto until it’s proper dead. But you’re also wasting valuable conversion time - and when (or more importantly), where will the auto let you down again? It’s almost Russian roulette. My thoughts on the matter. If you’re keen on the auto keep at it. I’m no guru and I don’t know if this applies to just one or both autos in the MY and L Series - from reading on here common issues seem to be the pump shaft spline stripping out or the governor device on the side of the transmission under the dome bit giving issues. Cheers Bennie

Mint looking MY! Auto… “just” manual swap it - you’ll thank yourself later. Cheers Bennie

Best bet would be to buy a set of heads or an engine that’s thrown a bottom end through the new skylight - if you can find one. All the best, Bennie

Any autopsy pics? My popcorn is going cold Cheers Bennie

I’m not overly familiar with the EA71, but with the Weber carb did you block off the throttle heater coolant passage at the base of the carb? This could possibly be an issue, I don’t know for sure. Only thought as to why it’s the passenger’s side is the car is parked on a lean towards that side of the vehicle, allowing the coolant to flow only that way. Long shot. Worst case scenario, you need a new head due to corrosion or cracking somewhere that fills both cylinders (I assume) very quickly. Sorry I can’t be of more help. My initial thought was the intake manifold gaskets leaking. Did you check that are out thoroughly when you replace the gaskets? No signs of leaking or deformity on the mating surfaces. For a rebuilt engine I would’ve expected a much higher compression. Running it for that short period of time without coolant would not cause any damage. I’ve seen (and cringed) people run them for up to a minute without coolant! Not cool. Hopefully you get this sorted and it’s a simple issue to fix. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm, I can’t think of anyone off the top of my head that’s written up a tutorial. It’s one of those things that you just get into and forget to take picks etc as you go. Re: silicone. Just lever on the plate, the silicone will let go. The trick is not to damage the mounting face. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm… think I’m looking at EJ cases too much these days, I don’t remember the top of the bell housing being so rounded. And those dowel hole up top - never seen that before, maybe a series 1 thing, I haven’t played with those gearboxes before. Cool audio clip. Could be many things - crown wheel touching the low range selector ring if they did a diff ratio swap (in which case, have a look at the pinion shaft for a weld mark); reverse gear partially engaged enough to click/grind like that - or a partially engaged drive gear for that matter too. So many possibilities of what it could be. Either way, don’t just drop that box in (as established)! Looking forward to autopsy pics Cheers Bennie