el_freddo

And can still happen in an automatic too when bypassing the starter switches involved with an auto. Dad used to have a bad habit of leaving our old ‘71 Torana in drive when he got home after work. One weekend he asked me to move it out of the old wooden farm shed. I didn’t know he bypassed the starter switch when it wasn’t in anything but P and N. Being an old carb fed engine it needed some pumping and revs to keep it going which I was accustomed to - and in this case I almost drove it through the back wall of the shed! Gave me the fright of my life. When I told Dad he shrugged it off and made it out to be my issue because I didn’t check to see if it was in Park or Neutral before stating the engine. My comeback was “who does that unless it doesn’t start?!” So yes, an auto can still be bypassed and start in gear unless there is another part of the system in play - so you need your foot on the brake for it to start?

Can’t tell you where the relay is that you’re chasing - I wanted to share with you a common mod on the Gen1s in the early 90’s. Often with an issue like this ppl would add a horn relay to the system. This would hive direct power from the battery to the starter solenoid by using the start wire as the rely trigger reference. Worked a treat and might be something that will work for you. Just ensure there’s no rodent damage to the start wire to the starter solenoid.

Yeah fair enough! You didn’t do the “mandatory” double pump if the throttle before turning the ignition on? Or the other way to do it is ignition on to prime the fuel bowl, ignition off, double pump, ignition on and start. I do this one when I haven’t driven my brumby in a while, especially in summer when it seems the bowl evaporates and needs filling again.

Yeah nice! We have Bambu X1 Carbon and I think a P2H - but that one is in another department as such, I might get some playtime on that this year. We’ll see. That first print is classic. Do you guys have everyone asking you to print this,that and everything in between?

Bearing issue *should* make similar noises if it’s a bearing issue. From memory there’s a bearing set between input shaft/front diff and 1st, 2nd and 3rd; 4th and 5th.

Have you drained the gearbox oil and see what comes out with it? Also carefully feel around inside the gearbox through the drain hole for any other fragments that may be present. Noise will travel to different areas. You’d need to use a dowel/long screw driver/stethoscope to pinpoint where the noise is coming from more precisely. Seems more likely that second gear is chipped, possibly both gears - if that’s the case you’d get an un-rhythmic sequence that will repeat after some time. This is because all gearsets have at least one gear that’s got an uneven number of teeth so they wear all teeth against each other for even wear across all the two gear cogs’ teeth.

Im super keen to play with ABS. Messed around with PLA heaps. Designed lots of stuff to - all school based for students m. Been an awesome journey though! What model 3D printer did your boss get?

That’s an interesting one! A chipped tooth will make a rotational clicking noise that’s speed related and only when in the chipped gear. That noise sounds like something is grinding - and interesting that it’s only in one gear. Other thought is that it’s multiple teeth that are damaged - unlikely though as the gear would most likely strip as a result, but anything is possible. Hopefully it’s something simple.

I think you’d also need the sundials to run the correct oil seal on the shaft. Male CV shafts require a larger seal, the male stub axles need a smaller diametre seal. Bit of a stuff around but worth the effort to work with what you have. I’m unsure if the auto box’s sundials will fit the manual, I’ve not tried that. The early phase 2 gearbox with stub axles and all phase 1 gearboxes’ sundials will fit your later phase 2 gearbox that takes the male CV shaft setup.

Have you opened up the locking actuator to see what’s amiss? I’m guessing it’s a sealed unit now that I suggested opening it up… does it make any noise when being told to do something?

Partsouq is my go to, even just for part numbers. Sadly for me they don’t do VINs of the Brumby and L series eras.

Join the two together in the engine bay. If you have both out you can bolt them together as a test run to ensure your clutch is aligned. If you have a clutch alignment tool this bit isn’t necessary. IF you decide to do engine and gearbox together, drop the front end out, mount the engine and box to this and raise the front end into the engine bay OR lower the body over the engine and box. I’ve done the bolt in job in the engine bay a number of times; in the L series and Liberty I drop the gearbox out the back and I’ve done the engine, gearbox and front end up into the engine bay twice - L series (EJ22) and the brumby (stock). L series I raised the drivetrain up to the body; brumby I lowered the body over the drivetrain with my engine crane. If you have a hoist it’s so much easier!

The cutting brake? Not heard that term before. I’m assuming it’s a device to lock up one wheel at a time on the rear? Eg: push forward to lock the right rear, backwards to lock the left rear, have I got this correct? Poor man’s locker 😎

The ecu doesn’t care about block or heads - it just wants the sensor data to tell the injectors what to do. Mix these up and you’ll have issues. Cam timing on the lobes *might* cause an issue but I have my doubts about that too. Swapping the block will not achieve anything. If swapping stuff, swapping heads for the correct units (if they’re not the right ones) will make things easier to diagnose. Issue with trying this out is that the intake manifold is specific to the phase one or phase 2 - so they can’t be interchanged which typically means it’s difficult to mix a phase 1 head and intake with phase 2 engine management.

^ That was my thought too. As this issue gets progressively worse you’ll start losing power in other gears too.

Lifts can rock if not adjusted regularly. I need to do ours as it sounds like an EA81. EJ251: The only issue they have for daily driving is a touchy throttle between no throttle and very light throttle. I find this annoying and am yet to find a solution - not that I’m looking hard as I’m too busy driving it then when I’m not I’m doing other things… If you have the leaking coolant crustiness on the outside of the head, replace head gaskets with the Multi Layer Steel (MLS) units from the STi - someone here knows the part number for these. I replaced ours and zero issues for 200,000kms so far. Engine now done 515,000kms which we’re stoked about. Still pulls like a freight train through the rev range. Uses a little oil but I’m not worried about that.

Rear sump bolts are accessible through the engine crossmember. Lifting the engine in situ with the engine mounts undone and pitch stopper rod removed should be enough to get the sump out without pulling the engine out. Surface prep then becomes a challenge but should be doable. Ppl performed this in the past. Personally I do the sump when the engine is out for head gaskets etc. Or if removing the engine for this job I’d do other work at the same time that’s far easier with the engine removed - resealing other oil seals, valve tappet adjustments (ea81) for example.

What does your compression look like with the engine cold and then with the engine at running temp?

Sounds like progress!

That’s very frustrating. I’m feeling for you mate.

Sorry to say mate - That question is where it always starts. I’m not in the market for composite panels so I have no idea. And again, what someone is willing to pay theoretically and what they choose to do about a purchase is another thing. Many ppl get a better kick out of researching holiday ‘what ifs’ than they do attending the actual holiday experience. Same goes for the prospect of cool reproduction parts. Someone might bite the bullet and just do it, it needs to be a special someone that does it without seeking full reimbursement or good profits - that’s not to say it can’t happen though, just don’t peg your expectations that it will go that way. I’m not trying to, or wanting to dissuade you from pursuing this idea; I am being the realist for you from what I’ve seen in the past with Subaru aftermarket small batch items. All the best!

The other issue with these ideas and looking for numbers of those that put their hand up to buy. Subaru owners are typically tight on stuff like this - yes ppl in a way if you like - but once it comes to the commitment to buy most of them will scamper! This happens time and time again. Someone needs to pony up without any expectation of others buying to cover costs. This bit sucks. Then you just wait & hope that the units sell. Much like the remanufactured tailgates here in Oz. Someone made them with ppl aware of them being made. From my understanding they sold several batches, I don’t know how many were in a batch. These were very well made and I want one, but other priorities plus my brumby isn’t the best looking one getting around but it’s complete and can be dailyed if I want. I do hope you work out a way to make it happen if this is what you want @SuspiciousPizza!

A leaky injector will leak regardless of being plugging in electrically or not from what I understand. It’s worn injector components or grit that holds the injector open allowing the residual fuel pressure to leak out. You could bench test this easily enough. Build up pressure with an external efi pump, shut it off and watch for leaks with a cup under the injector to catch any fuel (this will give you an idea of how much is leaking too). Also check the injector wires to ensure there’s no current keeping the injector open after engine shut down. That would be a long shot but anything is possible.

I’d try wiggling or probing those wires when the system is on and should be functional. Otherwise get an AC specialist or auto sparky involved.

If that device on the dryer is good it sounds like you have a bad contact - or not the correct amount of refrigerant in the system. You should have two electrical devices in the system - a low pressure switch and and high pressure switch. Either of these will disable the system to protect it from damage when the gas pressures aren’t correct/within an operational range.