el_freddo

That’s very frustrating. I’m feeling for you mate.

Sorry to say mate - That question is where it always starts. I’m not in the market for composite panels so I have no idea. And again, what someone is willing to pay theoretically and what they choose to do about a purchase is another thing. Many ppl get a better kick out of researching holiday ‘what ifs’ than they do attending the actual holiday experience. Same goes for the prospect of cool reproduction parts. Someone might bite the bullet and just do it, it needs to be a special someone that does it without seeking full reimbursement or good profits - that’s not to say it can’t happen though, just don’t peg your expectations that it will go that way. I’m not trying to, or wanting to dissuade you from pursuing this idea; I am being the realist for you from what I’ve seen in the past with Subaru aftermarket small batch items. All the best!

The other issue with these ideas and looking for numbers of those that put their hand up to buy. Subaru owners are typically tight on stuff like this - yes ppl in a way if you like - but once it comes to the commitment to buy most of them will scamper! This happens time and time again. Someone needs to pony up without any expectation of others buying to cover costs. This bit sucks. Then you just wait & hope that the units sell. Much like the remanufactured tailgates here in Oz. Someone made them with ppl aware of them being made. From my understanding they sold several batches, I don’t know how many were in a batch. These were very well made and I want one, but other priorities plus my brumby isn’t the best looking one getting around but it’s complete and can be dailyed if I want. I do hope you work out a way to make it happen if this is what you want @SuspiciousPizza!

A leaky injector will leak regardless of being plugging in electrically or not from what I understand. It’s worn injector components or grit that holds the injector open allowing the residual fuel pressure to leak out. You could bench test this easily enough. Build up pressure with an external efi pump, shut it off and watch for leaks with a cup under the injector to catch any fuel (this will give you an idea of how much is leaking too). Also check the injector wires to ensure there’s no current keeping the injector open after engine shut down. That would be a long shot but anything is possible.

I’d try wiggling or probing those wires when the system is on and should be functional. Otherwise get an AC specialist or auto sparky involved.

If that device on the dryer is good it sounds like you have a bad contact - or not the correct amount of refrigerant in the system. You should have two electrical devices in the system - a low pressure switch and and high pressure switch. Either of these will disable the system to protect it from damage when the gas pressures aren’t correct/within an operational range.

Yeah I’m well aware of this. In some ways I’m jealous. And in other ways, seeing what dipsh!ts have made regardless of our modification laws, part of me is glad we’re not a free for all! Sounds like you have it licked, should be good once it’s all setup!

Find out where that crackling electrical noise is coming from. Try squeezing/wiggling the wiring loom in various areas to see if anything changes, you could have a break of some sort Weird that everything is rhythmical/at a set time interval - almost like your test connectors are still connected. Are you in the rust belt area? It could be worth going over your earths and ensuring they’re clean if not done already.

I doubt there will be too much of a difference between carb cams and EFI cams. Turbo to NA cams, yes, quite a difference but even then the ECU wouldn’t care too much if at all. Cleaning the MAF can induce loads of issues if not done properly. Even then, many seem to report that the MAF is never quite the same after a clean if not done gently enough. Not having an O2 sensor would be an issue for the ECU. Why is this missing from the system? As for timing and pinging, my brumby sits on 4°btdc and runs the best RON “pump gas” we can get (98RON). Any more timing and it pings its tits off. Summer driving can be an issue with pinging at times. If your HVAC system is leaking vacuum that can be fun to diagnose - unless it’s a hose off which will hiss when selected (if post dash switch) quite loudly, enough to know you have a leak. The actuator diaphragms might mask the noise a bit better, however, in my Lseries with 530,000km on it they’ve never been an issue and not replaced in my ownership of 20+ years. I hope you get this sorted. Nothing more annoying than these little issues with no obvious solution.

Those strips are held on with plastic clips. Best way to remove them is via the inside of the door by squeezing the tabs closed to let them slide out the hole. You don’t need a chime moly bullbar - that will fold something more substantial in the engine bay. What you want is a bullbar that will bend a bit as it absorbs the energy of the animal - thus saving other factory parts on the car that are harder to come by. Nothing is certain pin this though. Maybe a full exo-cage will do the trick, but where do you draw the line?

Yeah righto. That’s against our Australian Design Rules (ADRs) over here. Can’t pump fuel between tanks when refilling. Not saying it isn’t done, just that if you’re found out or cause a fire somehow you’ll be raked over the coals for it. And a Fawcett pump would be bloody slow - about 2L per minute transfer rate. Would be better off plumbing in a fill tube between the main tank and auxiliary tank with a one way valve towards the aux tank. There would need to be a vent line to the filler neck to help with the transfer. Or just have a secondary fill pipe off the filler neck to the aux tank so it fills after the main tank is full. Many ways to do it without over complicating things. Our Pajero (Shogun/Montero) sports a dual filler neck behind the filler cap so we can choose to fill the main tank or the auxiliary tank. This secondary filler pipe follows the main tank until it needs to head to the aux tank. Its pretty awesome the first few times being empty on the fuel gauge, then hitting the aux pump switch and watching (from time to time) the main tank gauge go from empty to full without pulling over

Transfer pumpS? Why plural? Only need one.

I’d set it up as an aux Fawcett pump to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Far simpler than trying to run a second high pressure pump and work out valves/relays to switch fuel lines to avoid back feeding and sort out the redirection of the returning fuel (unless you run a deadhead setup with zero fuel return). This sort of thing is something I want to do with my brumby under the tray behind the cab where there’s a decent cavity.

The fix for a sloppy gear stick/shifter is cut a slot in about 20mm approx, parallel to the shaft’s location. Make the width a few mm at least. Do this on each side of that bracket. Then drill out the hole on the bracket while on the shaft so both are done at the same time. Shove a bolt in it with a metal lock nut, tighten the living daylights out of it and you’re done. If the gear stick is still sloppy but in a different way, you need to replace the bush on the bottom of it, the one that sits in a cup on top of the gearbox. Access this via the cab with console etc removed. I’m yet to do this, I was told a bit of garden hose over the end of the gear stick placed back in the bush does the trick. Well done on sorting out the running issue! There must be something in the mix on the old setup that does something that the charcoal canister does now.

How many miles on it? And what’s the service interval for the timing chain? Easiest way to determine whether your suspicions are on the right track is to do a compression test. If there’s a cam timing issue I’d expect one bank to be far lower than the other. If a chain let go, I’d expect some sort of grinding/crunching noise of the broken chain and spinning components when cranking the engine over. If the chain is intact, it could be a tensioner let the timing chain skip some teeth. Either way, if this is the issue, I see some very un fun times ahead. Last thought: check the cam sensor and rule out that there are any issues there. Cam timing sensor is used for spark and injector pulses from my understanding. This could change the engine tone/noise when trying to start. All the best

Awesome trips as usual. Still loving your pics of creatures in your environment. It baffles me how many ppl head out bush and don’t look at what’s around them, especially the small animals! Good to hear both vehicles went well for you! Interesting about that auto input shaft snapping, not seen that before!

What revs was the engine doing at each of these readings, and same gear/load? That could tell you a lot about what’s going on in your engine.

True. On the flip side I’d rather a known fact that it’s NON-interference than a bet that it is. I’m 99% sure the last non interference engine Subaru produced was the gen1 EJ22E. The Gen2 EJ22E used roller rockers that helped bump the compression ratio for better power but the downside was the engine became an interference engine. Since the H6 is chain driven, interference or non-interference shouldn’t be an issue unless you’re trying to settle a pissing competition between you and a mate.

I’ll put my bet in for interference. But chain timing rather than rubber belt cam timing, so something needs to be pretty catastrophic for valves to hit pistons in this engine - anything is possible though!

^ this. although this thread seems like it’s missing the original post/question…

They slow you down bushy tails?

I usually go by the shape of the wiring as this is something that’s never changed in my brumby. Someone on here will know for sure. I can check it out thoroughly in a few days and report back if it’s not urgent.

A mate of mine here in Oz swapped over to the newer tensioner style with its backing plate recently. Far easier to get replacement tensioners than finding the original style. All the best with your search!

There could be two leaking sources of coolant. I’d test again after that gasket is fitted on the throttle body before adding coolant. The other issue could be the O ring in the block between the two case halves is corroded and leaking - I reckon that’s a long shot but who knows. Cracks in the head are more likely than that ^ and they will usually occur between the valves and head down the exhaust port as they become worse. Once really bad these cracks will dump all the coolant into the exhaust on cool down. Not your issue here though. I wonder if you can use a bore scope in each spark plug hole to look around the cylinder and the combustion chamber when you have coolant in the cooling system - with air pressure at the radiator (if possible) to “load up” the cooling system and hopefully exposing the coolant leak.

I had a “problem” with my first and last EA82 rebuild - turns out we missed the bit where you fit one cam belt then rotate the crank one revolution and fit the second cam belt. When the crank is lined up one cam will be at 12 o’clock and the other will be at 6 o’clock. This is the key to EA82 timing belt alignment - don’t miss that crank rotation between fitting belts!