el_freddo

What are these scorpion rims you’re talking about? We’ve got these original scorpion rims formally made by Scorpion Subaru in Queensland I believe: There was a copy done a few years back that is sort of the same but not at the same time, not made by the original company as they’re not around anymore. I’ve heard of cracking occurring on the later units around or near the bolt holes. Cheers Bennie

They’re not just rims from drum brake era vehicles - they’re an early EA81/MY rim and they don’t clear the front calipers of the L series. These probably came from the models with solid front discs. They have a curved hub and sunraysia star pattern are the bit with the curve in them. The L series ones are flat with a sharp curve before it joins the rim. I’m unsure if the vented front disc MY/EA81 sunraysia rims have that same style bend in the star like the L series units. I’d have to look at a set (have them out the back on a 1984 Leone). Spacers might clear the front calipers but they’re not an ideal solution in my book. I hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

In the AC pipes/evaporator or the air ducting? If it’s blocked then why does the return line ice up - to me a blockage should make it shut down due to an over pressure or because it’s too cold at the evaporator. I hope you get this one sorted, there’s some good learning here!

The Liberty mentioned above either cranks for longer than I’m happy with or if you crank it then stop and go again it will fire up instantly. This only occurs when doing a cold start in the morning or after work at the end of the day. Once it’s warmed up starting in the first crank or two is a non issue. It’s just one of those quirks. I don’t know when it started but that’s my work around. Cheers Bennie

The sight glass should only be at the halfway mark, generally at the marker dot as @moosens mentioned. Had a carb rebuild done? The accelerator pump might be on the way out. If it drives like a momentary flat spot when putting the foot in that points to the accelerator pump not putting a shot down the throat of the carby to get things moving. Also try pumping the throttle several (or more times) to get it started - that trick might help. Cheers Bennie

Replaced both fuel filters (front and rear)? Have a look through the sight glass to see if there’s any fuel in the bowl. It’s on the RHS of the carb. After it runs and you’ve shut it off and it doesn’t run anymore, will it start with some starter fluid? If not, does it need to cool off before it will start again (with or without starter fluid)? If your answer sequence is no and yes to the above questions, the ignition module in the dizzy could be on the way out. Replace this and your coil at the same time. If the coil dies it takes out the ignition module with it. Cheap insurance. Ask me how I know… Cheers Bennie

I just rolled a 2000 RX Liberty with the EJ251 (matching numbers) over 500,000km today. That’s the equivalent to 312,000 miles. It’s still going strong and has its own unique story too. Dunno what owner number we are, but it was a $500 special with 300,000km (187,500 miles) on the clock back in 2016. New clutch, new head gaskets and we were winning (got it registered). My sister owns it and has given up on it since having a company car, now I drive it in our rotation of vehicles. It’s back at no1 commuter now since having its cam belt done and the oil pump resealed (minor leak that may not have been it in the first place). I have to keep an eye on the oil level between changes as it seems to use some but isn’t smokey - I usually use a semi synthetic so it should show up if it’s being burnt. If the engine is good, there’s really no reason why you can’t swap the engine into another good body if it comes to that. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like an issue where the evaporator is frozen over, which could point to the switch that turns the compressor off to avoid freezing the evaporator. It could also be that evaporator is partially blocked which wouldn’t be helping. I’m no AC expert though. Cheers Bennie

G’day mate, you should slip this back over to the L series sun forum where you originally had it. You’ll get more replies there. This forum is for EJ series engines/vehicles. The EA82 is the L series which is in the 80’s subforum. All the best with finding the issue. You must have some sort of shirt that you need to track down. Cheers Bennie

Your guess is as good as mine! If you’re doing a rebuild, why not drop a set of turbo pistons in there as these are really the only difference between the NA and turbo shirt blocks. If you’re after power/torque, best bang for buck is to do an EJ conversion, hands down. More reliable too! Cheers Bennie

For weight distribution you’re almost better off putting a quality fuel cell behind the front seats in the foot wells. Im loving the bracing work. My L series could do with this! Although if I tightened up the rear end like this the rest of the body would probably take up more of the body flex and create other issues… Cheers Bennie

Correct, they can be pulled apart and cleaned. I had one cleaned up by a mate and it worked well. I wasn’t there to see the process, I believe it wasn’t that difficult. Cheers Bennie

Bob you’re probably right about that timing of the battery dance. I guess someone was playing it safe to ensure codes are cleared. 30 mins is a good time to boil a kettle and have a cuppa tea & a bikky No worries on that part number. From what I can see it’s not just the 1993 model that uses it. I should find a VIN for a Gen2 and compare, I bet it’s the same though! Cheers Bennie

Bin the 4spd and drop an EA82 five speed in. Been done many times! Bin the EA82 engine if it comes with the gearbox… or use it as a boat anchor! The EA81 4 spd is a pain in the butt to tear down and rebuilt. A specialist tool is required to remove the nut on the back of the pinion shaft that isn’t easily accessible. Fun fun. It can be done as others did it previously, just not easy. The 5spd conversion is easier in my book. Cheers Bennie

Love the three door coupe!! We didn’t get them in Oz. Special import only and they weren’t known or weren’t popular. I’d have one! I’ve done this dash removal several times. Not too bad once you know what you’re doing. Best of luck sourcing a new heater core, mind you, your unit looks like it’s an all copper unit without the plastic end tanks that can let go in a big way! You could have this checked over by a radiator specialist to get the ok. Regards Bennie

Awesome time, money and effort you’re putting into this wagon! I’m hoping to one day do something similar with my Brumby and L series! (And the RS wagon, Leone wagon…) Looking forward to progress pics! Cheers Bennie

^ this. Easiest way to ensure the check engine (CEL) light is working. And yes, those black plugs are the two you connect to read the codes. Such an awesome way to read codes for the DIYer! I found part number 22633AA060 for the TPS. It’s listed as “Sensor Assembly - Throttle”. This part is from a 1992 AUDM VIN search. This is also the same part for a 1992 USDM SS Legacy turbo (2.2L) and the 1993 AUDM RS turbo (2L). So I’d safely say that this TPS is used across the board on the Gen1s. I haven’t looked into the Gen2 Liberty/Legacy. Cheers Bennie

Pls delete

Time to get an aftermarket temp gauge that actually give a number reading for the engine temp. These gauges that point into a no man’s land tell us nothing useful. The gauge won’t move but I bet anything the engine temp is constantly fluctuating depending on the situation - and sometimes this will go much higher than you think before that needle moves north! Even better is to get an engine watch dog - you can set alarms and there’s a model that comes with two sensors, many options here - coolant (first one and quite obvious), second one could be engine oil temp/gearbox oil temp/hub temp on one corner/fuel temp etc. pick one and go from there. Cheers Bennie

The MAF is required to run the engine. The “MAP” sensor as you call it is the ignitor, also needed to run the engine. The sensor in the throttle body is the TPS. They can get dirty contacts. It’s worth opening them up and cleaning the tracks that the fingers follow. Once replacing it make sure you’re following the procedure to have it properly installed. The MAF could need cleaning (VERY carefully!) or replacing. Also look at the knock sensor, back of engine near the bell housing on the LHS, got a 10mm bolt head holding it in place. It’s black and probably cracked by now. This won’t usually throw a code if it’s got an issue until it’s really proper dead. If you’ve pulled plugs off items when the engine is running you’ll have to reset the ECU if you want to accurately read codes. The 30min “battery dance” will clear the ECU memory of new and old codes. Start the engine again and let it idle up to temp. The idle speed will fluctuate - this is the ECU setting the idle etc. DO NOT touch the throttle once the engine is started until it’s up to temp. Drive it like you stole it and see if the issue persists. The issue will return, then check codes and start with the sensor the codes point to. I hope this helps. EFI systems are nothing to be scared of if you’re coming from the dark ages of carbs and dizzys. They will generally give you a starting point with a code or two Cheers Bennie

To fix that block, have that cylinder sleeved then bored to match the other bores. Best way to do it would be to sleeve all bores and have each cylinder bored out to match the piston being fitted into that bore. But $$$$ needed as it’s a full bottom end rebuild going this way. Have you tried cleaning up the bore when the piston is back down the cylinder? You might be surprised as to how it comes up and could possibly save you the hassle of a rebuild. The EJ22 must be hard to come by over there. They’re becoming harder to find these days across the ditch from you. Cheers Bennie

Me too! That’s a pretty impressive space. Does it cost you anything to park up there for the winter or is it a group arrangement that looks after each other? Either way, it’s a sweet storage area for your BRAT! Cheers Bennie

Geez that’s an interesting project you got into there. And welcome to the forum Cheers Bennie

Aftermarket KYB struts are gas filled. OEM KYB struts are oil filled. Something to keep in mind there. We put superpro or Nolthane poly bushes in my sister’s Gen3 RX Liberty (Legacy) a number of years ago. It drives beautifully now! I can’t vouch for the product in that link. It’s each to their own with the type of bush to use. Personally I like the Nolthane, many consider these too harsh etc. I’ve not had that experience in my off-roader L series, or my sister’s RX Liberty; I think they’re a great product. Stiffer springs will generally mean better handling, the trade off might be a firmer ride. For a road going vehicle that’s not a bad thing as the stock springs are a compromise between handling and ride comfort for the general consumer. An uprated spring goes a long way for better handling/performance. Cheers Bennie

If your springs are worn get some upgraded aftermarket units. Kings springs if available over in the states would be a good start. A new set of struts could help improve the handling/driving feel too. But as I said earlier, new suspension bushes all round will go a long way to restoring the driving experience your vehicle originally gave, if not making it better again. How far has your Subi travelled? Cheers Bennie