el_freddo

1. No. Fit the tensioner, put the belt on as you normally would 2. Correct. Once belt is on and you’re all happy, move the tensioner up against the pulley then tighten the bolts down. I use a large flat blades screw driver to apply some pressure (if not at the end of the slots) then I tighten the bolts down. 3. Dunno. I always go by hand. There should be a general bolt size and torque setting guide in the manual of memory serves me correct. Cheers Bennie

It’ll be due to the forum crossover from the old to new platform. You’ll probably find many threads like this that have the same issue. Someone that has the correct privileges and knows the link will be able to change it, as will the original author if they’re still around here. Cheers Bennie

Is that an EJ22 heads gasket? I’ve not seen that part number before. Cheers Bennie

@Steptoe - that blanked section where we have a coin bucket/pocket, I reckon there’s a speaker behind it, going by the horizontal grille arrangement. I’d say that gear selector setup is factory. It’s probably a hatch, being a DL it’s the typical povo pack, maybe with carpet added. Cheers Bennie

Neat (but dirty) looking brat! Heads up: EA82 shafts are not compatible with the EA81 units. Only usable part is the inner joint unless the EA82 shaft is from an MPFI/turbo. Cheers Bennie

Where there’s a will, there’s a way... Rim size doesn’t mean much in terms of rolling diameter. I got new tyres on my brumby recently and swapped the rims size from 13 inch to 14 inch. No change to ride height or speedo reading as I purchased the same rolling diameter sized tyre of the 13 inch rims for the 14 inch rims. Yes the forester tyre is taller and this, has a larger rolling diametre. With some effort - such as a lift kit and a GPS, you could fit those tyres and rims from the forester onto the outback - then drive by GPS for the correct speed reading. Starting off might be harder due to the gearing change but the auto will do it well. It seems like you’ve made up your mind - purchase the outback and find an engine for it. Cheers Bennie

Bendigo eh? I missed that detail if it was shared. I’m yet to visit Bathurst and “do a lap”. Keep me posted and we’ll see what we can do And top effort on the inspector’s remark. That must’ve been a good feeling! So now the log book is in, what’s the first event? Cheers Bennie

Junk yard will be your friend. My understanding is that the barckets will all fit an EJ22 If from an EJ22 of the same phase. Since you’re retro fitting the AC compressor grab one that’s bolted to the bracket, that way you know the compressor fits what you need. Then photograph the VIN plate for future reference. Have your custom hoses made up, wire in the compressor clutch to your AC system’s compressor control wire; lastly, wire in the pressure switch in series with the one in the factory loom. Cheers Bennie

Pretty much what Lucky texan said: I believe the direction of rotation is optimal for acceleration and especially for braking. You wont notice any difference when cruising along, mainly when braking - and moreso in the wet. Block shape/placement and the diagonal slits all play a part in the grip provided. Most of it will come down to braking. Nachaluva was running a 4wd tyre backwards on our last couple of trips and there was no issue with that corner loosing grip over the other tyres being runnin the correct direction. Mind you, this was on dry clay/rock with one section of boggy mud that he did in a huge hole. No issues. Running tyres from 2003 is more concerning if they’ve been left out in the sun etc. Cheers Bennie

Who said anything about putting kids in the back?? No one, except you FerGloyale! It’s a moot point. Jump seats are cool. We didn’t get them due to our design rules. I know of one set imported into Oz - but they’re only for show and not for road use. Plus they chew up too much usable load carrying space where you put the heaviest gear. I doubt I’d want to be in these seats cruising the bush with our dusty conditions! I felt for those dudes in the back of AristoBrat - but as you said, it was their choice... Either way, back on topic - Brat/Brumby for me even with a family. It’s my daily, I can buy others too but I don’t and won’t ever have access to a Baja since they’re a US only model. And I have no hard feelings about that either. Cheers Bennie

As I’ve previosuly mentioned in your other thread, rust - make sure it’s not a rust bucket! This means getting under the car and having a good look. From what I’ve seen of salt effected cars over there, if it’s got serious rust issues it’ll look like the side of the titanic under there. Walk away if it is. I’m only saying this due to the reference of it having studded tyres. Cheers Bennie

I doubt the valves just snapped shut as the cams will usually continue to rotate with the momentum gained from the engine revs. This then goes out of time with the rotation of the pistons and that’s where the collisions between the valves and the pistons occur. At idle you might be lucky and not have any damage. When driving you’re sure to have bent valve issues. Time for an EJ22 long block swap. Ah, hang on, your foresters - EJ22 or EJ25? Our early ones are EJ20. The EJ22 long block swap is a good one for off-roaders and the factory ECU does the job well. Cheers Bennie

I watch that and think “if they had the dual range gearboxes like we do, I wonder what they’d get into then!”. Great video. Cheers Bennie

Top effort mate! Were they happy with what they saw? Mans was the fuel pump a requirement to a certified one or is it just dead/dying and needing replacement? I’m keen to see this thing out and about but am a bit far south to just drop in on an event... Cheers Bennie

You have small GST over there! Ours is 10%... Over here at a dealer it’s $30AU!! It seems all genuine parts are at a premium at the dealers - captive audience for most consumers! Cheers Bennie

My thoughts too until mdjdc said it still has compression - hopefully established through an actual compression test and not from listening while cranking. Any valves that aren’t bent (if that’s even possible) will build compression, or may build enough to sound like it’s got compression - or still be smashing valves. Only it’ll sound different to how it normally does. Cheers Bennie

Not in the Loyale. The EA82 has a myriad of problems with it. The EA81 found in the brat is the reliable as the EJ22 unit. @Ravenwoods - NLA = no longer available The EA engines above are 1.8L. EA81 is pushrod, can under crank, bullet proof if you keep the oil and coolant where it should be. The EA82 is OHC with small cam belts and always have oil leaks and the tick of death from hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) that don’t pressure up properly. If it’s running studded tyres I’d bet that it’s got serious rust issues if it’s seen salt on the roads. Lastly, this would be posted in the EA/80’s subforum, even though it’s a 90’s year build. Cheers Bennie

If you took a photo of the six pin relay diagram and visited an auto electrical store I’m sure they’ll have what you need - and the service assistant should know what you’re after or at the very least how to track it down. The pin setup may be different to the factory unit. Cheers Bennie

Self tappers used in the slot and bolt trick? I’ve not heard of that. What I did is probably what’s documented in the threads above: remove the tube piece with the ~45* angle bar on it that goes to the lever pivot. Grind/cut a good slot in the tube, perpendicular to the bolt holes so that the slot goes beyond where the holes are. I cut my slot to be about 3mm wide. Replace on the vehicle then drill the hole out to a larger size, this includes drilling the gear selector rod. Have a bolt that matches the hole size. Place the bolt in the hole then do up the nut as tight as all buggery! A lock nut will work well for this job. You’ll feel like you’ve got a sports shifter once this is done! Cheers Bennie

Got some pics to share? Welcome to the forum Cheers Bennie

Fair enough. I love it. Less work. Car not on jacks, coolant lines remain sealed. And with the gearbox strapped onto the motor cycle jack I find it a safe operation. That’s odd. Unless you’re going from and up-spec Gen1 to a budget/low-spec Gen2. Cheers Bennie

Whoa, @GeneralDisorder will have something to say about this! He must be sick of reading this stuff! @JohnCT - have you also thought about a local exhaust shop to build a replacement piece? I tend not to trust off the shelf aftermarket stuff from the net, especially fleabay! Cheers Bennie Edit: it could be worth getting the injectors flow tested and serviced - this will insure injector 4 is working properly and not leaning out due to blockage or some other injector related issue

There’s no need to pop the ball joints with the gearbox on a jack. Pull backwards until clear of the engine. Either push box one way, remove one shaft, move the other and remove second shaft. Or slowly drop box out, removing the shafts as you go. Do the reverse as you put the box back in. Make sure you’ve got the cotter pin hole line up correctly. The cotter pin can be knocked in before you go any further so you know it’s all sorted. For me, if it’s gearbox/clutch or rear main related, it’s box out. Much less to deal with and I don’t have to split the cooling system - which means I don’t have to catch and possibly replace the coolant. And yeah, if you suspect the car is stolen, walk away. Or you could try offering $200 if they have the title - that extra $50 could be that little bit of an incentive to get their A into G. Cheers Bennie

Looking and sounding good mate. It’s a big project you’ve undertaken. Remember the end goal! and keep up the good work! Thise chrome trim pieces in the windscreen/windshield rubbers - I’ve found them to be much easier to install with the rubber on the glass prior to fitting the glass to the vehicle Cheers Bennie