el_freddo

@idosubaru - what are you using the 32mm twelve point socket for?? A 22mm is needed for the crank pulley, but I’ve never used a 32mm other than on EJ castellated nuts on their driveshafts. Curious... Bennie

Possibly. Shafts you don’t suff around with. As soon as you find a split boot, change it! Replace shafts with genuine. As for replacing outter joint, it could be worth a try. I’m guessing this is the joint that went bad on the original shaft. Cheers Bennie

I’d have to check but I’m pretty sure the EJ20 and EJ22 heads have the same combustion chamber dimensions. Valves might be smaller in the EJ20 but that’s really no issue. Cheers Bennie

Once you’ve got your new thread/topic up and running, just copy the web address and paste it in here. The forum will do the rest Cheers Bennie

Shift rod as in the pitch stopper rod that goes between the firewall and gearbox? Its probably best to collate a list of what you need and find someone wrecking a vehicle in your area or visit a you pull it parts yard. engine/gearbox bolts are common across many models. The pitch stopper rod I believe is the same but there my be slight differences between some models. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Mark. Top shelf on the left Did you pull your legacy apart or did you buy it in pieces? You guys seem to have a few good online parts sites that will sell what ever parts you need and post them in your direction Cheers Bennie

I’d want to walk in there already known some codes. It could be a simple fix that’ll be an expensive exercise at a dealership. Who knows, the code could point at something for you to investigate that gets you started on some self maintenance if you’re into that sort of thing. Cheers Bennie

It’s exactly the same as the 2.5 kit/setup if both are SOHC or DOHC. The tensioner setup can be different but a) this doesn’t ultimately change the belt setup and b) the tensioners are interchangable using their corresponding mount plates Is this your first timing belt job? Cheers Bennie

If you’re worried about exhaust restriction, get some larger cars designed for larger capacity engines. Keep cats, get “better” exhaust flow, probably not get a check light, winning. Whats wrong with your current cats? Cheers Bennie

I loved this line! as for axles, I reckon the brumby is on par for axle strength. The issue is that the brat runs in front wheel drive all the time so “power” is only pushed through two shafts as opposed to some real power using all four shafts. Many wrx conversions are done to the brat so the shafts must be doing alright in the strength department. Cheers Bennie

Well that’s one opinion. Many Brumbys over here are daily driven. We’ve got a family bus and my brumby. Laws allow me to travel with one of my children in the front seat once of a certain age and height to fit into a booster seat. Where Subaru ultimately went wrong was leaving the rear axle forward of the load area, it should’ve been centralised for better ride handling and load carrying ability. My 20c. Cheers Bennie

If the crank pulley shot oil everywhere I’d be looking that the crank seal. You might find that it’ll leak at a certain rev range too. Been there done that. If you’ve not touched the oil pump you could suspect that too. If you didn’t do the internal seals, that could be part of the issue. I hope you get it sorted sooner rather than later! Cheers Bennie

@Subasaurus why aren’t there many old subi’s in Texas? No dealers in that era? I didn’t think they’d rust out too much in Texas from what I know of its climate (hot/dry most of the time?). Cheers Bennie

Or use a set of car ramps and a motorcycle jack. Works a treat for me. One difficulty depending on the vehicle is that you may need to drop the gearbox off the jack once it’s at the lowest setting - otherwise you won’t be able to get the gearbox out from under the car. But if your just doing the clutch you’ll have enough room to do what you need then slip the gearbox back on. Cheers Bennie

Even if the heads have had a shave as part of the HG service? Sounds like poor maintenance schedules or poor build quality of the engine. While I don’t work on Subaru engines for a living I do know my way around them and what to look out for etc. Over here I just don’t hear about these failures, particularly in the epic numbers you’re making it out to be. Going back to build quality, are your Subaru’s engines built in the US or Japan and shipped over? And yes, I’m aware that the EJ25 can “fully blow” a head gasket - just like any other engine can, not one engine is immune to this! We have the EJ20, EJ22 (up to ‘99) EJ25 and the H6s. Early on we got the EJ18 and a very few EJ16s. In the publicly accessible parts yards you’ll be hard pressed to find a H6 in there. EJ20/22/25s are readily available. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Ken! drop a link to your thread about the drivability issue in here so we can easily find it Cheers Bennie

Gotta love the L! Great pic doing the 4wd doughnut, I’ve got a video of mine but no pics doing that. Welcome to member life Cheers Bennie

So the spider gears in the front diff are good. But that’s not going to help you. Have you drained the gear oil yet? You need to check to see what comes out. That clanging noise doesn’t sound good. And to me, it could be a front diff issue, like a locked up diff or pinion shaft bearing that’s acting like a hand brake on your drivetrain. Must be a seriously dead bearing though! And to go so suddenly is odd. Or you’ve chipped a gear tooth that’s jammed up the system. Have you tried light revs and dropping the clutch, or trying for reverse and moving the vehicle? Honestly, I’ve never had an issue like this except once when I somehow managed to lock a rock between my rim and front caliper when in 4wd (L series), it locked all four and since I’d killed 3rd gear I thought it was a gearbox issue until I trailered it home and found the gouge mark on the inner rim. The other thing it could be is the gearbox is somehow stuck in two gears, like it’s in 1st and 3rd at the same time. There will have been something that’s gone wrong in the box for this to happen as there’s a pile of dedent “pills” that are moved by the selection shafts like a mechanical locking puzzle, hard for anything to go wrong unless one of the retainer plugs on the side of the gearbox is AWOL - which could also be where your leak is coming from. If memory serves me correct - there are three 10mm headed plug bolts on the LHS of the vehicle where these dedent pills are slotted in through, this could be part of the issue - or a red herring. It’s easy to check anyway. I hope it’s an easy fix, but currently it’s looking like a gearbox replacement. Cheers Bennie

Drive trains between your legacy’s and this Gen1 are identical from the exterior. Some minor “interior changes” were made to the head setup on your legacy’s. Diff ratio may be different but other than that it would be plug and play for the drivetrain. Interior is different, although certain things will cross over to your legacy’s, but I can’t really see anything you’d want from an earlier model... Cheers Bennie

I disagree about the service of head gaskets etc after the EJ25D. Once the leaky factory gaskets are swapped out for the replacement items it’s happy days. Idosubaru hit the nail on the head: sully and demand. There’s probably little demand for the JDM EJ25 since there are enough locally AND many workshops work on this engine easily with timing belt and head gasket maintenance items. Speak with anyone who is considering a head gasket job on a H6 and they’ll tell you it’s cheaper to get a replacement engine. Yes it has a timing chain, but this isn’t invincible either - and while the engine is out you might as well go the whole hog and replace the timing chain plus guides/tensioner etc while you’re in there. Then there’s the 80 something timing cover bolts (from memory) that I’ve heard are a PITA to remove. Replace them! End of the day, EJ25 = easy platform to work on; H6 platform not so easy to work on. The H6 will bolt straight in place of your EJ25 - BUT: you’ll have to run aftermarket engine management and tune it if you’re not going to run the factory wiring. Either way, both options there are big jobs. I’d only do it as a DIY as I know I can do it. Otherwise, buy a H6 equipped vehicle and go from there! Cheers Bennie

It’s funny how this plastic is a “real” issue for some, yet they don’t worry about the plastic end tanks on their radiators and heater cores. I’d much rather have a split intake than a split radiator or heater core end tank. The intake manifold is under zero stress compared to the radiator and heater core end tanks! Cheers Bennie

Further to this: - the short block option will require your engine’s heads fitted along with all the other gear from your engine, plus a timing belt kit. - the JDM long block will require your engine’s intake (and maybe sump etc), and a timing belt kit is advisable unless the long block is sold with this work already done - but I doubt that. Both options have their pros and cons. You need to weigh up what’s best for you as your situation. Cheers Bennie

Nah they’re easy enough to do with the door assembled. Not that it matters in this case since everything needs to be transferred over to the new doors. Cheers Bennie

I reckon that’ll serve you well! I’d probably look at adding some supports to the mounting brackets to reduce flex or future metal fatigue. On my L I’ve run with some roof rack that my dad got from a tip in the ‘70s. Fits perfectly and does the job, it’s a bit ratrod - and I’ve just picked up a tradies roof rack from a van, it’s almost double the size! So that’ll be cut down before long and fitted. I couldn’t go past it for $50! Cheers Bennie

If one wheel moves in the opposite direction to the one you’re turning the diff centre is fine. I’ve not heard of one seizing up like that before. Did you add more oil to the gearbox to top it back up to the correct level or just threw the Lucas stuff in? With out much more information than what you’ve given, and since April fools day was earlier this week, I’m reckoning you need a new gearbox. Cheers Bennie