el_freddo

Have you checked the codes? When I had starting issues with my EJ22 up in the snow country I swapped in a new knock sensor, temp sensor (fans will run all the time if the temp sensor is dead) and a cleaned up throttle position sensor (tps). The tps was set correctly, ecu reset (removed neg battery for half an hour) then I fired her up without any issues. The Oxygen sensor could also be worth changing out for a new one too. These typically won’t throw a code, but they’re also not used in initial start up until they’ve got some heat in them so they operate properly. Cheers Bennie

The bolt holes are in the oil pump housing. And if there’s a difference between auto and manual the answer could be no. I still don’t understand why the likes of the phase 1 EJ18, EJ20 and EJ22 (don’t know about the EJ25) didn’t have this little bracket if it’s such an issue - or is it an issue with the updated piston in arm type tensioner? Cheers Bennie

You work fast Giles!! As for suspension bushes - I’ve always used Nolathane (schpelling?) bushes. They’re the red polly bushes from memory. I go for the three piece units for ease of fitment once the old metal “cage” of the original bushes are out. Since doing the rear bushes in Ruby Scoo back in 2008, I’ve has to do them again in 2016 after many many kms and off-roading trips! So I’m happy with them! Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy - any words in the form of a description as to what’s actually happening there? Got a new project? Pulled the EA82 turbo for an EJ20 turbo?? Putting an EA82 turbo in??? Too many questions raised. Cheers Bennie

You should do a google image search for “Settlement Creek Racing” Scroll down to see the pic: https://allevents.in/griffith/subaru-brumby-race-car-on-show/169638510505561 In action: Epic build! Cheers Bennie

Holy Cow Giles - Looks MINT.... until you showed us under her dress! I'm so glad we don't have salt on our roads over here!! All the best with the resto, it looks like it'll be a long haul. I do love that colour though! Drop a link in here to the build thread when you get one started! Cheers Bennie

Ok, I'm going to do two things here - 1) warn you and 2) do what I've just told sparkyboy "off" for. So the warning - be careful with the bug! I'm up to 4 subarus now - my beloved L series (the $500 special - see below for further details), my brumby (daily) and two Gen1 RS turbo libertys (legacys, one going, one "being worked on"). My L series is the slightly modified one. First mod was a welded rear diff, then an EJ22, then lift (dropped the welded diff as it got me into plenty of trouble with the EA82), "a few" gearbox mods, snorkel, rear cargo storage area (up to mk2). Anyway, here she is in all her glory after about 14 years of ownership, 10 years with the EJ and 9 years with the lift: And with my brumby (brat) - just after swapping the rims to the Scorpion 5 spokes Lov'em!! The L gets pretty loaded up for offroad when headed out for a weekend or a week! Cheers Bennie

@Scoby4wd - awesome score there mate! Look after that one! If the mod bug hits get something else to mod!! @sparkyboy - mate, love your enthusiasm, but you’ve bombed in more photos of your rides than what Scoby4wd has!! We’re all proud owners here, but if we all did this we’d have difficulty finding those with the new rides! Cheers Bennie

Third party hosting site is the way to go You stoked with it? Cheers Bennie

I’ve heard of some Aussie members modifying the all plastic VT commodore unit to do the job in the brumby. Unfortunatley I don’t have pics, nor have I seen any of this mod. Cheers Bennie

If the miss doesn’t sort itself out with new plugs and leads I’d then be looking at the coil pack. Swap the cat just to be sure. I reckon mine is gone by now, it’s had a few too many knocks when offroad... Cheers Bennie

Yeah fair enough. I’ve done my firewall back down to the rear suspension including the wheel arches etc. I had everything out already - gearbox and the front end. Can’t remember why I had the front end out, gearbox was out for a rebuild so I did the paint work while I was there. Cheers Bennie

Looking good Astro! Cheers Bennie

Correction, one of the worst automatic transmissions is the three speed. I haven’t heard anyone call the four speed auto one of the worst transmissions out there. Someone might be able to chime in here, but it might be possible to get the TCU re-programmed to run better as per your requirements. As for your swap it’s not just a simple transmission swap, you’ll need the matching TCU, wiring and somehow make the ECU and TCU talk together. Cheers Bennie

I’ve also heard of ppl using the MPFI temp sensor too. From memory they adapt the SPFI wiring to the MPFI sensor. I hope it’s as easy as replacing this sensor! Cheers Bennie

I used to put a 3mm spacer behind the oil pressure relief valve spring. I have no idea what it did to oil pressure but I’d say it held the valve closed for longer. Now I haven’t had this issue for the best part of a decade. Cheers Bennie

Oil pump will be fine! That’s apparently a NLA item so if it’s good I wouldn’t be binning it - collect them! Turbo might need a service if there’s any oil varnish on the bushes (bearings) due to sitting for an excessive amount of time without a start up. It might be just fine too. Giles, I thought you’d worked on the modern stuff too. I didn’t realise an ‘85 XT would be your most modern vehicle you’ve worked on! Sounds like a huge project, I’m looking forward to build pics etc! As for engine bay clean, just avoid hitting electrical connections with high pressure. It also pays to clean them out with some wd40 after you’ve done with wash work. Cheers Bennie

Hey nice coupe! What you need for the 4wd conversion is: - rear “K” frame that the suspension mounts to. This will also require the swing arms with the stub axle that is splined and rostered. You’ll need the drum/disc and associated parts too. - rear diff and drive shafts - moustache bar and mount points left and right. This part holds the back of the diff in place. To fit this to the coupe you’ll need to drill holes and work out how to get annut behind the holes. You could get lucky and find a set of holes with a captive nut in place but it’s not always the case. As for the AWD box, you’ll need to make a custom gearbox crossmember. There are details around here on how to do that. L-Rex on ausubaru.com.au has some awesome details of this in the build of his EJ turbo L series. You can source MPFI or turbo MPFI L series front shafts that will fit the EJ AWD box output stubs no worries. Just make sure the gearbox comes with axle stubs and not the female setup where the driveshaft goes into the gearbox - otherwise it’s custom drive shaft (same if you do the 5 stud conversion with EJ brakes) On the topic of brakes - standard EA will do if you’re not street racing and drive it appropriately. I’d be givin the whole system a good service though and throwing a set of braided brake lines in for good measure. Rear discs would be a beneficial upgrade - but make sure they’re the 4wd ones and that you get the hub, disc, backing plate, caliper and brake line that runs along the swing arm as it’s different to that of the drum brake. No adaptor plate needed for the EJ engine to EJ AWD box - your clutch cable will slip in and do the job. If the clutch was operated by hydraulic from the donor vehicle then you’ll have to source a cablemoperated clutch fork and cable mount (or use yours from the EA box). Engine wiring is always the biggest headache for most. Get that sorted and you’re off and away! Also remember that the EJ AWD box is setup to run a larger diameter tyre to that of the EA’s. You could try doing a diff ratio swap to compensate but that’s pretty involved and you’d want to start with an Impreza or Foz box from my thought/research. Or run the Impreza/liberty sized tyre and do the EJ brake upgrade too. Once you’re all done it’ll be a sweet ride! All the best with it! Cheers Bennie Edit/ps: I should’ve added that to get the 4wd rear end parts get an L series 4wd donor - sedan or wagon, turbo or NA (turbo will have rear discs and possibly a clutch pack lsd if both haven’t been sold off already). Then you’ll have all the bits you need.

There’s a good thread about this when doing the same for 5x100. Its not recommended due to the amount of material that’s removed - lose too much strength in the cast piece. This is for the EJ brake conversion. If you’re just looking for a stud PCD change, you should be alright depending on how close to the original holes the new ones will be. Cheers Bennie

Amen to the EJ22 swap. They should’ve been recalled in the 90’s for a mandatory EJ22 swap Skip the Weber and save for the EJ! Cheers Bennie

What’s even worse is that Gates have apparently gone to poo with Chinese components. Other members will tell you more about this and what to buy instead Cheers Bennie

JesZek is back! Good to hear from you mate. Life does change and spin things around at times. Sounds like it’s been for the better for you and your family! The travel sounds interesting! Cheers Bennie

Sounds like the other five have been swapped out for new ones but that last little bugger was left as is... Hopefully it’s an easy fix. Cheers Bennie

Sweet find mate! A very rare sight over this way! Try blowing compressed air back through the fuel lines. Then if you have time, pull the fuel tank out and give it a good flush. It could be a good idea to service the carb and blow out any crap that would most likely be in there after all those years of allowing the fuel bowl to go dry multiple times. Also replace all rubber fuel lines Cheers Bennie

I’d keep the oil in the box and keep it away from the weather and moisture if possible. I like to store them under my bench off the floor if possible. Otherwise on a block of wood or two on the cement slap (floor) out of the way is the go. You can cover up any openings to reduce the risk of dust getting in. The sun might perish the seals, but it’s take a number of years in a shed. Left out in the Aussie summer sun it could take a year or two to kill the shaft seals Cheers Bennie