el_freddo

It probably deemed exotic as it’s not the original SOHC EJ25D combination. But it definitely comes into the frankenmotor catergory. I was asking which engine management as I’m toying (in the back of my mind - so more like dreaming) with the idea of building one of these for my L series off-roader that’s already Gen1S2 EJ22E equipped. But then I also think that if I break a cam belt in the frankenmotor then I’m up spoob creek without a paddle big time. So it’s in the air as to what happens, probably nothing, but it’s interesting to know the combinations and the engine management that runs them well. Cheers Bennie

Depends on how they’re looking before you put the new gearbox in - or if you want to do them it’s the best time with the box out. Also remember to replace the massive O ring on each side. This is the seal for the threads on the bearing carriers. Cheers Bennie

But Jono is definitely stuck in this era so he’s not inclined to even visit the EJ or BRZ era sub forums let alone post in one Cheers Bennie

There you go. All I know is they can be the nearest thing to the mechanical lock AWD L series system. There’s a few fellas over here running the dccd in their off-roaders. How long they last is yet to be seen though. That said I guess you don’t run them at 100% duty cycle for lock all the time while offroad - only as you need to. Cheers Bennie

@suprunner - which engine management were you using to run the latest incarnation as mentioned above? Cheers Bennie

Is this a statement or a question? As stated, all 5mt gearboxes have a mechanical centre diff that has a weak LSD built into it, rated at “5kg”. I’ve heard of a 12 and a 20kg unit too. How they get this weight rating I don’t know. When ever you hear/read “plated” or “viscous” with “locking” you know they’re talking about a limited slip differential. There is the DCCD centre diff that’s electronically manipulated through some voodoo stuff that I don’t understand. This device can bind the centre diff to equalise the transfer front to rear and vice versa. Which RX model are we talking here? There’s more than one and I’m 99% sure they all had a mechanical centre diff with some sort of LSD build in. The L series RX didn’t have a centre diff as it was a PT4WD box, but there are some models that had the dual range AWD mechanical locking centre diff. Rare to say the least. My qestion to you @border_boxer that’s not a statement: Are you after a response to someone that’s swapped from 4.111:1 diff ratio to the 4.44:1 diff ratio? While I haven’t done this exact ratio change, it will all drop in as per factory. You will need to do the usual diff settings in the preload and backlash departments. And possibly look into a different 5th ratio to maintain decent cruise revs. If not you’ll be pulling high revs with the diff ratio swap. Cheers Bennie

I’ve found it easier to use google search with “site: www.ausubaru.com.au” in the search terms. For me the search on Ausubi .com.au isn’t any good unless you or someone has visited the old thread since the new forum came on line. It could be different for you - and different if you’re on a computer vs on the phone as I am most of the time. Cheers Bennie

And here's some dodgy photos of the tool I made, looks rough but certainly gets the job done: Cheers Bennie

You just need a small extension hose to relocate the oil pressure sender unit. Any decent brake shop will easily make one up for you. Cheers Bennie

I made my own tool and it utilises all four slots in that nut device. I use a large adjustable shifter on it without any issues. Thereare pics of it floating around the interwebs. Too hard basket to find one on my phone atm. Cheers Bennie

You'll love the painted guards - so easy to clean out and they look schmick when they're clean too! Will you be doing the rest of the underside of the vehicle? Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Ummm... So why isn't his insurance covering the damage to your vehicle? He was the one at fault - and the service station should have CCTV footage you could sepena (spelling?). I wouldn't live with it and I'd be chasing down that driver if possible. At the time you should've got all their details and have them contact their insurance company to put in a claim. All the best with it. Bennie

Same for series 2 MPFI NA I can vouch for this mod. Best of both worlds. No adaptor, uses factory EJ clutch setup yet it all bolts right in as per the L series box Cheers Bennie

Intercooler can easily be setup. You should be able to use any standard EJ setup intercooler. As for your other questions, this might be of value: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=11047 Cheers Bennie

I wasn’t saying there was anything sketchy about the wiring. Just that wiring should be tidy and protected. It doesn’t matter how well it works, if it’s not protected over time with vibration wiring damage and be caused and worst of all either a harness failure (engine no worky) or an electrical fire. Over here corrugations will kill a harness in not time if not properly protected. Plus wiring in black automotive conduit or spiral wrap looks mint over seeing every wire in the bunch (or worse still, not bunched together at all). Thats what I was getting at. And it sounds like there was a lot of effort put into this car. Kind of sounds like you would like to buy it back FerGloyale! Cheers Bennie

*Giles gets on the next plane to the US* Cheers Bennie

That airbox says it’s a Gen2 (legacy, the Impreza may have got this airbox straight up since they came in a bit later). Looking at the shape of the intake I’d agree with it being an EJ18 - they all seem to have a much more pronounced “wave” in the intake runners from the pendulum box to the head than that of the EJ22. And it’s time to wrap up that wiring in some sort of automotive conduit Other than that, enjoy the ride, an EJ’d L series or MY is WAY better than a stock unit! Cheers Bennie

I’ve never seen a fuel pump spring a leak - unless it’s a mechanical one off the side of the engine from back in the day, and even that was rare! Got any pics of it leaking? I’d reckon the issue would be more to do with the EFI fuel hose leaking due to age. I’ve had that before. Cheers Bennie

Sparkyboy, the compressor for air suspension should be under the front LHS guard/fender, between the wheel and the front bumper. Talk about using all nooks and crannys!! I hope for Giles that it’s still there. And Giles, I wouldn’t say the vortex was hugely popular over here. I think many of them stayed in the 80s after the initial excitement died off. In saying that I saw my second ever XT4 in ten or more years. That was on my street/road about six weeks ago. I couldn’t believe it and wished I could’ve followed them for a bit... Anyway, I digress! Cheers Bennie

A back up plan would be a second harness Don’t take what GD says to heart. He plays with the new stuff and seems to have little time for others starting to play with the older stuff... and seriously GD? More fun LS swapping an f150?? Where’s the Subi in that equation??! It’s not even part of the initial question!!!! Argh!! Do your research, learn along the way and take your time with the wiring cut down job. If you get a donor vehicle, pull the wiring, do the cut down then test run the wiring on the engine while it’s still in the vehicle. Once that checks out without any check engine lights etc, then proceed with the engine removal and the rest of the conversion. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Giles! Long time no hear (I’m not on bookface)! I hope you find your answer, I’d want to do the same too Cheers Bennie

Just be aware that you *might* need to also replace/modify the front panel that the headlights mount to. Modifying the original grille with the quad lights would be way easier. Someone will know more about this mod... Cheers Benie

^^ This! Cheers Bennie

Even so, I’ve been blinded plenty of times with LED bar weilding vehicle’s that just don’t see the oncoming vehicle with dipped headlights... or sometimes with high beams on (enter high beam wars - where I think they work out their lights are still on high beam). Cheers Bennie

Short answer... No. Even moreso if you know nothing of spinning spanners or reading/following wiring diagrams. Either the EJ NAs or the turbo engines will require a wiring loom cut down and an adaptor plate. Go the turbo route and you’ll have to notch the engine crossmember (or find an EA turbo crossmember) and think about gearbox upgrade thoughts too. Once you’ve done one it’s pretty easy Cheers Bennie