el_freddo

Yes they are taller ratios, but they’re the ONLY TWO available in the EA dual range gearboxes, and the 3.7 is the most common. As for the Aus or Euro dual range, he’ll probably want to drop the good low range into one of these, and can swap in the 4.44:1 diff ratio (WRX box will have one, and a “matching” 5th ratio for cruising). A decent low range AND the 4.44 will require shaving the crown wheel for clearance it’s the larger low range gears. And yes, the Aus or Euro dual range box will drop right in without any mods other than a console swap for the dual range lever. The cheapest option on the table in my view is the EA dual range. Then live with the diff ratio change. To get a gearbox from Aus to the US (if customs is operational stateside!) would cost ~$AU700. Once you factor in finding a decent second hand box you’ll be well over a grand and quickly headed to two grand if you get a low km box. Cheap boxes will usually have +300k km on them or a centre diff issue and can be had for ~$AU250. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the update! Cheers Bennie

Head gaskets, especially if it’s the EJ25. Although I’m not 100% sure the factory head gasket leak runs into the EJ253 which I believe your forester has. @GeneralDisorder - he’ll be able to give you the required head gasket part number to correct the leaks. How much oil and coolant is missing and over what time period are we talking? Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... that sucks! Although a set of twins that aren’t well maintained are apparently an absolute pig to drive and even worse to sort out. You guys got the WRX over that period of time didn’t you? Best shaped models in my opinion. A MY99 WRX hatch would be nice! @stevo f - can you try to describe where the smoking smell is coming from and what it smells like? Cheers Bennie

GT meaning turbo over there?? GT = twin turbo over here but I know you guys typically don’t get the twins due to the LHS steering column fouling on the seecondary’s dump pipe or something. So, if a turbo, I’d say the smoke is the typical cam cover seal leak onto the turbo exhaust manifold. If NA it could be a rear main, or one of the other suggestions above. Cheers Bennie

It will bolt in. Diff output methods will be different though. The ‘99 will most likely have stubs from the diff and the ‘04 will use driveshafts that have stubs that fit into the diff. I’m unsure if these driveshafts are 100% interchangeable. In my mind they’ll work but I’ll let someone more experienced comment on that front. You could do a diff centre swap between the two diffs to keep the correct driveshaft attachment method with the diff you want to use. Cheers Bennie

Or even drop to 3.7. Adaptor plates availble from Oz: SUBARU EJ SERIES ENGINE TO EA SERIES GEAR BOX ADAPTORS on Gumtree http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1179605973?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=sms You will also need the EA flywheel and beef up the EA clutch. From memory the clutch is cable operated so that bit is easy Cheers Bennie

ECM meaning engine control module, such as an ECU?? Your BRAT won’t have one. The other thing to check is the fuel cut solenoid is working. Can you hear the fuel pump running just after you stop cranking the engine with the starter? If not, this is part of the issue. But it also needs a reference signal from the coil. Cheers Bennie

Al, I believe it’s due to the reintroduction of the 4 door wagon that’s sligthly smaller in size than the ute and troopie. They all share the same chassis, and thus the rear track on the ute and troopie is the same as that of the wagon (which has the same track width front and rear). But for some reason they made the ute and troopie a wider body with a wider front end track width. The turbo diesel V8 was just a coincidence at the time of the new model. I’ll be interested to see what you find Al, I remember this wagon model being the reason for the track width difference. Cheers Bennie

Thread dig alert!’ @wtdash - what came of this build? I hope you’re still on here and have something good to share (pls share even if not good!). Cheers Bennie

For those else where in the Landcruiser Market, the track width is only an Australian thing due to our design rules with something about the distance the wheel bearing can be from the suspension mount. I didn’t know the rear end fought for the front wheel’s track in soft sand. Interestingly you can spend a couple of grand and have a certified kit fitted that brings the rear wheel out to match the front wheel’s track width. Cheers Bennie

I’m with sparkboy - RIP is a bit up the deep end! It’s making a comeback so more of a hiatus... Sounds like you’ve got a good mate! And what’s being sand blasted? Not body panels I hope! They’ll come back rippled no doubt, unless blasting techniques have changed. The rippling is due to heat from friction of the beads contacting the metal. I’d look into that before professing with the sand blasting. Cheers Bennie

Leaving one track different to the other would seem like a half arsed effort, and I’ve not seen any factory Subarus look like the Citroën from back in the day. Isn’t there a handling issue with the front track less than the rear? Cheers Bennie

This is the standard way to do it if going 5 stud and I totally agree. But jdmleggy has widened the rear track to “EJ spec”, so the front needs the same treatment to bring front and rear track width to be the same. I too did not know about the EA81 tie rod end swap when doing the “standard” 5 stud front end swap. Cheers Bennie

With a lot of fun... I mean Bennie

What do you mean “cool like yours”?? They’re all cool! Rallyru, I love how your MY wagon makes a lifted Impreza look small!! Cheers Bennie

Milty, we call that manoeuvre “angel gear” over here. If you skip into neutral at speed and use the brakes you’re in the hands of the angels. Some might say that it’s the same for an auto but really it’s not, get back on the good stuff and the auto does the rest for you. Cheers Bennie

The front end *shouldn’t* be too hard compared to the rear. EJ strut of choice, EJ hub, EJ lower control arm. Hardest part is fabricating the rear mount for the control arm. And you’d need to check the front mount is in the same position on the EA crossmember. My hunch is that it’s the same but I’ve never looked into it before. I’m looking forward to seeing if you come up with something different. Cheers Bennie

Nice thread dig... isn’t there another current one that’s working on/covering this already?? Cheers Bennie

Also check the continality of the wires from the coil to the module to ensure there’s not a break in the wire. Cheers Bennie

No, two different sizes. Dunno how you’d stuff that up! Cheers Bennie

Steady blinking indicates the market the ecu is from, and there’s are no stored codes. Mid codes are stored, these would be flashed instead of the market designation. Cheers Bennie

Igniter module is dead. Replace with known good one or be one. Check your fuses too, just to be sure you’re not chasing your tail for no reason Cheers Bennie

New trans tunnel = more engineering required which = more $$$s, potentially $$$$s... Cheers Bennie

Turn the heater off and see what the difference is! You’ll melt your dashboard doing this with the heater on! Cheers Bennie