el_freddo

Top story, and yes, been there before too... several times no doubt! I kind of did the same with my last gearbox rebuild. Starting with the reassembly of the box... three times - until I worked out that phase two internals physically fit in phase one cases, but reverse will never work - the MUST be in a phase two case. Bugger. Then once back in the car it was running really well - until I went to select low range on the day of a 4wd trip. Locked in high range. %*#^!!! Pulled box, modified low range selection lever as I thought this was the issue, put the box back together (now at my parent’s) low range lever still jammed in high range. Strip box down again, removed washer from low range selector fork’s pivot shaft. Reassemble, almost drop a bolt back into the box when putting the rear housing on (rookie mistake!). Gearbox back in car and haven’t looked back since... oh, wait, that was until I broke it when in Perth on the other side of the continent a few years later. That was a sickening feeling. Glad there’s an awesome Subi community over there that I had a link to. Now I actually WANT to pull the box to swap fifth ratio, and if I have to pull the whole box down due to the longer EA AWD pinion shaft to do this, then I’ll rebuild the obx front diff with the spring and washer kit that I’ve heard about since building this box. That’s one example. When in Perth with the box in bits I felt physically sick. That’s not happened before! If you want a better bed time story (or lunch break story) with lots of picks you can read our last Vic desert trip [url=https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=38100]here[/url]. There are ALOT of pics, 49 if I’ve counted correctly! Al, you’ll get it sorted. EJ is the way to go. You’ll be looking for AWD next Also, on the PS pump, remove belt, rear nut and two front bolts, it’ll just lift away now for good access to that spark plug Im keen to see how you did your gearbox xmem for the 5 speed box - there are a couple of ways to do this from what I’ve seen! Keep up the good fight! Cheers Bennie

Are you sure you’re in neutral when you try to select the next gear? Have you found reverse yet? It makes a very different sound to the forward gears. Don’t try to aniticipate what gear you’re in, get a feel for the movements the box allows you get into then work it out from there. You need to rotate the input shaft when you’re in a gear. Do it for each gear. If there’s any resistance that’s not a constant there’s potentially an issue with the gearbox. As mentioned, removing the drain plug and inspecting the oil, or at the very least getting your finger in to feel around for an metal around the drain hole is also an important assessment to do too. I hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

I wish I did this when the L’s were easy to find in the parts yards ;( Cheers Bennie

Sounds good mate. I dunno why ppl want max boost so far up the rev range... I’m glad it all worked out for you! Cheers Bennie

You’ve missed my point. Gen1 body with a H6 is missing from the pic. That’s what I was getting at. Cheers Bennie

This was always my thinking with the 5mt. If this became available I’d seriously consider swapping to the 6 speed box as all the strain is removed from the drive gears when in low range. Keep up the good work. I hope you pull it off! Cheers Bennie

If it’s not ticking or squealing I wouldn’t worry about it. No oil is worse than high oil pressure in general. Interesting about those figures czny, my EJ22E with mechanical oil pressure gauge will read about 85psi cold with revs, ~60psi at idle. Once warmed up cruise is ~75-80psi and idle around about 40psi (from memory, I might have to double check next drive). Are your figures from the factory oil pressure gauge or an aftermarket unit? Cheers Bennie

Check your engine and gearbox mounts as well as the pitch stopper rod. These can cause movements the could pull you out of reverse gear if the gearbox and enginencan move. I’d be paying particular attention to the pitch stopper rod. Internally, there could be a broken retainer spring on the dedent that holds reverse. Since this is a six speed as you’ve suggested, I’ve not go any experience with these. Cheers Bennie

You’re missing a first gen. Youll need to make one and do a reshoot... Cheers Bennie

UPDATES!!! Looking forward to them Cheers Bennie

I didn’t know that about the NA MPFI XTs and the knock sensors. I always knew a knock sensor as a turbo only engine thing for the EA82. Externally the block is the same MPFI NA and turbo. It’s essentially the pistons that change in the turbos, and most likely the cam profile. Cheers Bennie

Frozen slide pins on the caliper. Did any of the old pads come out worn on an angle? That’s a tell tale sign of a frozen slide pin. Cheers Bennie

Thought about one of those champion thread replacement “plugs”? http://championpartsonline.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=23679 They typically need a bit more meat to remove so these can be fitted. Cheers Bennie

Rear diffs are the same. The rear shafts are not the same, hmthey have the outer axle shaft built into the cv shaft and I believe are a smaller diametre due to a change in hub design. Cheers Bennie

Once warmed up that doesn’t sound like valve tick... Cheers Bennie

Thread dig - this thing still going? Cheers Bennie

Aussie ex-pat mate? Wecome to the forum! Did you find what you were after or is your wish list now growing?? Cheers Bennie

Will you need to mod the chassis to properly centre the axles inside the BRAT’s guards? It’s a pretty big change from the original direction! I bet the off-road options in upgrades are much easier to come by! I’m looking forward to more pics of this build. Cheers Bennie

Inspection camera poked through the spark plug hole (if possible). From viewing the piston you’ll know if it’s NA or turbo. NA wil have little “moon crescents” in the top of the piston, turbo will have a dished or stepped down section. It’ll be very obvious, especially if you can find pics to compare if you don’t already know what you’re looking at. Cheers Bennie

You already had a few New Years drinks Jono?? Happy New Year mate! Bottoms up! Bennie

Low boost turbo application. That’ll be my next EJ conversion Cheers Bennie

If it’s got a redundant knock sensor this indicates, at least to me that you’ve got a turbo block - these have a lower compression piston fitted. This could be where you MPG is going. Some one please correct me if I’m wrong! Cheers Bennie

I like that tube bar on the front of the Impreza. It looks good! I’ve heard of one or two of these getting around Oz but never seen them in the flesh. With that dual range, do you have low range oil feeders to help keep the low range cool? Well worth looking into IMO, especially with that EG33 upfront! Cheers Bennie

Block will bolt to all sorts of heads in the EJ range. It all comes down to the piston combination used with which head etc. It will physically bolt into any EJ engine bay and as Crazyeights mentioned, it can be fitted into the EA series vehicles too with a bit of work. You need to charenwith is what you’re trying to achieve and we can go from there Cheers Bennie

Plus the Tercel, 505(?) and the Magna of the same era - very close back in the day but easily distinguishable apart today! I still Iove the L series and it’s shape. I also love the fact that I can choose what computers to put in it. Currently it has one for the EJ. It’ll stay this way too. Cheers Bennie