el_freddo

Look up the king spring website for availability. I’m sure you can still order them new at a decent price. If you want lift, go for the HD springs. Your rear springs will be pretty toasty by now. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... on this advice I better go tell my old man to give up on his ‘29 chev and ‘42 Willy’s jeep. Seriously though, if you can get an L for off-roading, why would you want a Forester, first gen especially?? If you know what you’re doing around and under a vehicle you’ll be sweet. I’ve only killed one shaft off-road - front shaft - where I managed to shatter the outer joint’s ball cage. Funnily enough, it was the first time I was out bush with my new lift and tyres. Dunno what’s changed, other than that shaft, but I’ve not had any issues since. One trick I do know of is to set your lift up so you’re not increasing the angle on the CVs by much. Too many people drop the hubs WAY lower than the gearbox/rear diff and that’s asking for shaft issues! Cheers Bennie

The apocalyptic talk from GD might just have this part of the forum shut down... You guys must wheel wrong if you’re breaking axles every time you’re out bush! Its called mechanical sympathy over ego... simple as that. Cheers Bennie

Nice mate, got any pics?

No harm in trying the additive. Worst case it still leaks and you’ve lost a couple of bucks. But would this give you piece of mind knowing there’s potentially a ticking time bomb waiting to do the same or worse? The L series had plastic end tanks on their heater cores, these used to let go all the time... but I’ve not heard of an EJ core going now that I think about it. Cheers Bennie

What model vehicle are we talking about here? You may have knocked a vacuum line off or a hose on the intake tract that could be messing with your air meter readings. That’s all I can think of... Cheers Bennie

I’m waiting for GD to chime in about the move to an EJ platform... GD? As to your questions, the steering extension should be part of the lift kit. You’ll want bigger wheels. I’ve got a 3 inch kit and 27 inch tyres, a sweet combo even for some quite technical stuff. And if you want to do a lot of off-roading in this long term, do some stitch (or full) welding of the sheet metal seams. If I did an L series again I’d weld all door jamb and window seams, then do others as deemed necessary. To turn those larger wheels you’ll probably want more power. An EJ conversion is the best for this. GD will say the EJ22 is becoming longer in the tooth, but I’m sure you’ll still be able to find a good unit. The EJ25 from the Gen3 would be a good option too. Avoid the dual overhead cam EJ25 Next is brakes. Either learn to drive appropriately, find a set of rear discs from an RX/Vortex or even rarer, find the XT6 setup with the five stud conversion. Or find an EJ brake conversion setup. Other accessories are typically DIY... Cheers Bennie

Dunno how the EA81 would go with the tyres. Sluggish at best but many have run the 27s and factory drive train. I shudder at the thought. I had my EJ before I was lifted, I still wonder how anyone with the EA81/EA82 and 27s did it. Now I’ve got a built gearbox that pulls my gearing back to factory. It goes great to say the least! Cheers Bennie PS: keep it clean, drive it neat and the Po-Po won’t be a problem - unless you get trapped in one of those vehicle road worthy check stations they always run during “festive seasons”.

I’ve done the same on my three inch extension - I had to carefully file an “extension” to the splines. Like you, worked a treat Cheers Bennie

The ONLY GL10s I’ve ever known, seen or heard of were turbo. This is the first non turbo one I’ve seen. Unless someone’s done a dodgy and slipped a replacement carb engine in there, this goes against what everyone knows a GL10 to be. Cheers Bennie

That’s not a true GL10. Stickers on the rear doors don’t mean a thing, and the fact it’s a carb engine says it all really. Bogus GL10. The author doesn’t know much about the good ol’ L series. Dual range was pretty much a standard option in the series II. Bogus info, but a clean looking unit none the less. Cheers Bennie

You light look at how to secure them from behind the bar with some cable (zip) ties. I’ve done this on my brumby with the little cover panels for the bumperettes as they can fall off if a bit loose with their age (or someone nicks them). It’ll work if the tabs are a loop type arrangement. Or you add something to hold them in better than just being clipped in (sikaflex comes to mind, or an appropriately placed screw or two). Time to get creative. Cheers Bennie

How much higher is a little higher above idle? You don’t want to see anything above 14.8v when charging. This too would indicate a dead alternator. Could make for a good welder but battery charging is no longer an option for that unit. Monitor, it’ll rear it’s ugly head soon enough if it’s alternator related! Cheers Bennie

You need an image host site like photobucket etc. then use the direct link with some forum code to show the image in your thread. As for your location, I can’t see that detail on my phone without looking at your profile page, something I rarely do... it wasn’t until I posted about the rhd/lhd comment that I noticed you used the “brumby” name... then it clicked that you must’ve been from Oz! Cheers Bennie

If right hand drive do what Jono said. If left hand drive the stock clutch cable will reach where it needs to go if I’ve read this detail correctly. Use the L shifter and the brumby 4wd lever. You’ll need to cut and weld the 4wd brumby lever rod to the L series 4wd selector rod. Make sure you measure it all up properly the first time! I’m not sure if the L levers will need to be cut down to fit in the trans tunnel hole of the Brumby. Either way, use the L levers with the brumby console. It’ll look factory Cheers Bennie

Have you changed the grade or brand of oil used? Any chance you could get an oil pressure gauge plumbed in to see what’s happening on start up and whenever the ticking stops? Cheers Bennie

No good video but I suspect it’s a cam removal job. Have you checked your oil level to verify that it’s where it should be? Cheers Bennie

Tried cleaning/replacing the main power relay? In that model I’m not sure what colour it is or where it’s located, but on the Gen1s it was a brown relay. That could be the issue. Or check your fusible links/slow burn fuses. Cheers Bennie

Depending on what gen that ej22 came from (‘95 could be Gen1 or Gen2 over there for all I know) can determine exactly what noise it is. The Gen1 engine had HVLAs - small but heaps better than the EA82 monstrosities! These can tick from time to time and on my Gen1 EJ22 in the L series this tick on early start up indicates either oil is very cold and taking its time to pressure up to the HVLAs or that my oil level is low. The Gen2 engines use a form of roller rockers and from my understanding won’t tick as a result. But this engine is an interference engine. Gen1 is not Cheers Bennie

Further to this, all travelled the same distance, meaning when it’s time for tyres, replace ALL FOUR. Do not do the replace two, put the best two on the rear trick that you can do with 2wd vehicles. Cheers Bennie

Ah that strip, not the rubber door/window weather seal? Thats pretty normal. It’s becoming hard to find good windows to tint due to these scratches! Cheers Bennie

Second hand would be your best bet. Plus tint should be trimmed about 5mm from the edge of the window for best durability. Cheers Bennie

Driver’s side over there. Get down low to be able to see it. Have a torch or phone torch on hand to help out. There is a dot in the middle of the sight glass where the fuel level should be. Cheers Bennie

Try resetting the ECU and see if the problem remains. Cheers Bennie

Yeah I’m not sure Jono is allowed in the local Bunnings anymore - he gets too many crazy ideas while he’s there! Cheers Bennie