el_freddo

That user may have been me Jono and Jono That or I had the same convo with a mate when we were sorting something out between the two of us. Anyone know if the EA82 double uni joint can be fitted to the EA81 PS setup? Cheers Bennie

Dizzy swap to a carb unit, intake swap to that of a carb as well. You could get away with keeping the ecu and matching dizzy for ignition purposes but it might not be overall happy with the tps and O2 sensor missing. You may need to run some wires to excite the coil to make the bang in the cylinders - and sort out the anti-dieseling solenoid (or run the Weber) Cheers Bennie

Either way a butcher was at work there. Probably had to weld it back on several times due to the pressure and heat from the turbo extractors/headers. Cheers Bennie

I cut up some old conveyer belt and used that. Got rid of all the slopin the bush too Cheers Bennie

Is the steering wheel physically pulling one way or the other? Or is the issue that the steering wheel is not centred properly? If it’s just that the steering wheel is not centred then that’s an issue for the wheel alignment place. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a win win with that setup. Interesting about the turbo too... Cheers Bennie

Just because the control arms were replaced, it doesn’t mean the ball joints were. Although it would make sense to replace these items while everything was apart. Cheers Bennie

Not even a chance that you’d get away with that for long over here!! Traffic authorities would spot it a good mile away Small/mild lift and tasteful mods are the way to go. The EJ22 can be done without drawing attention to your ride Cheers Bennie

Definitely factory fog lights. The problem with using these switch panels is that you need the switch button or mod the blank that’s there so you can actually push the button and have it return back again. I tried it for my driving lights but it didn’t work out very well. I ended up going the easier route - used aftermarket toggle switches I put my cruise control panel on there - but I modded one of the blanks to mount the panel on, so that’s neatly mounted and the button pushed into the panel. Looks real neat. Cheers Bennie

If you’re worried about the power do a couple of track days to get to know your new power plan and how it behaves - or just drive it gently like a Sunday drive style. Youll probably find that you won’t play with the boost all that much - but it’s “nice” to have it on tap if/when needed. I hope everything goes sweet once the conversion is sorted Cheers Bennie

Why a 5 pin? The easiest way to do it is to run a dual wire from the temp switch at the radiator, have one wire go to the switch, the other wire from the wiring loom. On the other end of these two wires will be the three way switch. You wire the loom wire into the common/shared pin, the switch wire to one side of the three way switch. The other side of the switch is wired to earth. Back at the radiator end, you’ll need to put the other wire of the temp switch to earth. You may have to work out which wire is earth and which is the reference wire that goes to the relays. Or it may not matter since it’s just a switch. The MY is much easier to do since it’s only a one wire switch. Cheers Bennie

BYB don’t make lift kits for these anymore. I doubt you’ll find anyone in Oz making a lift kit for these anymore. As previously mentioned, a two or three inch lift and 27 inch tyres are the go. After that you’ll want an EJ22 to turn those larger wheels better, or sort out a gearbox with foz internals behind the EA82. Cheers Bennie

After checking the balance of the tyres and not finding any issues, have the inside of the tyre checked for any foreign material in there. This can also cause weird vibration issues. Mother than that I concur on the above mentioned areas to check Cheers Bennie

Thanks Dee. I knew it was something like that... I have a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar that I jump on to tension the castle nut, my torque wrench doesn’t go up that high :/ Cheers Bennie

I know of Subaru Gears. Good kit from what I’ve seen online. If you’re going with the Subaru Gears you shouldn’t need a different bellhousing, just use the Subaru factory flywheel and clutch You may have a dual mass flywheel on that Legacy. Hunt around for a Gen1 or Gen2 solid mass flywheel. It should be maybe $50 second hand and will bolt straight in. Cheers Bennie

Nice. What bits do you need for the Vanagon conversion? Welcome to the forum Cheers Bennie

It’s all Lego!! In my ‘88 L series I’ve got the factory 1.59:1 dual range, phase 2 EJ cases and matched drive gears from an SG foz, L series AWD locking centre diff with a modified pinion shaft for 4.111:1 diff ratio. All of this is a factory bolt in job with an EJ in front of it. And it goes well - just have to not go breaking the centre diff or pinion shaft - I’ve done that once already, very poor job on the first pinion shaft. It wasn’t fun Cheers Bennie

Torque should be 196 ft lbs from memory. Worn gearbox mounts won’t make an inner CV wear quicker, it’s designed to work on an angle! The issue is the aftermarket shaft. You might find that this shaft slips in and out of the bearings easy, when they should be a solid fit where you’re using a mallet or the like to get them out. Further, if the cone washer has a lip on it you’ll never get the job done properly in terms of torque/clamping. Cheers Bennie

Evening (and a late evening from the east coast of Oz - 10pm-ish here!) The issue you describe does sound like a drive shaft - particularly since the replacement item was an after market unit. I agree with you, the missing engine mount bits won’t matter, so long as the engine is still held on either side of the engine mount by one nut and washer setup. Other things to consider are: - tail/prop shaft uni joint on the way out. Although that’s not powered when in 2wd, so it’s a long shot - excessively worn gearbox mounts After reading that linked thread I think you’ve already got your answer - and it all points at the after market cv shaft. Bugger about not being able to work on your car at your apartment :/ Cheers Bennie

‘87 is the crossover year (at least for Australia) between the series 1 and series 2. Easiest way to work out if series 1 or 2 is: - series 1 has just an indicator stalk on the steering column, flat grey buttons either side of the instrument cluster and an elongated black honeycomb grille. - series 2 has the combination switch (indicators/wipers/headlight switch) on the steering column, black bordered buttons either side of the instrument cluster and a colour coded grille. Gearbox dimensions and bolt in are the same. The diff ratio could change. There were 3.9:1 diff ratios in the series 1 and I’m 99% sure only 3.7:1 in the series 2. So grab the rear diff with the gearbox and you’ll be sweet. Stick with carb EA82 gearbox as these have the smaller 23 spline diff stubs. The SPFI I’m not sure on as we didn’t get them here. The MPFI and MPFI turbo are the same as the EJ diff stub - larger and 25 spine. The good news is that either diff stub CV shaft is available for the L series. If you can’t find a good set of used factory you should be able to find an aftermarket set, as crap as they might be. Grab the centre console and gearshift linkages and rubber gearshift boot. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Not double over head cams! ”Just” dual intake heads. Very custom and I’d imagine very well built. I’d be keen to see a set these in the flesh just for curiosity. Cheers Bennie

Sweet ride mate! I love that colour. The rear diff might need oil or be damaged from lack of oil. It’s not normally used onroad as these vehicles are front wheel drive until you engage 4wd. So it shouldn’t make any noise on the open road. The other thing it could be is the rear bearings. Simply jack up a rear wheel off the ground and rotate it. If you hear or feel a rumble from/through the wheel your bearing is needing replacement. Rust is the real killer of these. Check around/under the windscreen rubber, rear side windows, below the front door hinges (open doors to check) and in the seam behind the spare wheel. But looking at that wagon I reckon you’re pretty much rust free! Cheers Bennie

Dealers should have them I only use genuine where possible. Otherwise any decent store would be able to get felpro gaskets which should do the job. Tough luck on the head crack :/ Cheers Bennie

Fred Flintstone style!! So the end game will be sheet metal replacement once the strength is in the tube chassis? Makes for a wicked looking Brat! Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... the water pump shouldn’t make a knocking noise. That to me points at the cost belt tensioner that’s in the same region as the water pump. If you remove the driver’s side cam cover and inspect the tensioner with the engine running you can accurately diagnose the real issue. We carefully used a stethoscope to listen to the tensioner. This pinpointed our knocking sound as the tensioner (new aftermarket unit, replaced with second hand OEM and haven’t looked back). All the best with it! Cheers Bennie