el_freddo

The front end *shouldn’t* be too hard compared to the rear. EJ strut of choice, EJ hub, EJ lower control arm. Hardest part is fabricating the rear mount for the control arm. And you’d need to check the front mount is in the same position on the EA crossmember. My hunch is that it’s the same but I’ve never looked into it before. I’m looking forward to seeing if you come up with something different. Cheers Bennie

Nice thread dig... isn’t there another current one that’s working on/covering this already?? Cheers Bennie

Also check the continality of the wires from the coil to the module to ensure there’s not a break in the wire. Cheers Bennie

No, two different sizes. Dunno how you’d stuff that up! Cheers Bennie

Steady blinking indicates the market the ecu is from, and there’s are no stored codes. Mid codes are stored, these would be flashed instead of the market designation. Cheers Bennie

Igniter module is dead. Replace with known good one or be one. Check your fuses too, just to be sure you’re not chasing your tail for no reason Cheers Bennie

New trans tunnel = more engineering required which = more $$$s, potentially $$$$s... Cheers Bennie

Turn the heater off and see what the difference is! You’ll melt your dashboard doing this with the heater on! Cheers Bennie

Good thread dig from 2016! Maybe they’re stuck on the side of the road somewhere with a jammed gearbox waiting for help? Cheers Bennie

It’s bigger in diametre from the pics I’ve seen, and probably longer than an EJ 5 speed. It could be the same length as the 4wd 4spd box come to think of it. Google some images and check it out Cheers Bennie

*Yawn* Boring!! Seriously though, you need to go with a vehicle that will meet your needs and that you’re confident with in purchasing. Don’t buy a car in the evening as the sun sets, paintwork unless really really bad will look ace... until the sun comes up the next morning. My dad did this and while the car was good the paint had many imperfections including swirl marks from a sander used before its last respray All the best in your purchase Bennie

Yes you can if you keep the connectors. I can read the codes on my sister’s Gen3 Liberty using the plugs. Nothing has changed in that department for the early OBDII, later gear may have changed but I’m not familiar with that. I’ve also been told on good authority (auto sparky mate) that OBDII Gen2 stuff is much easier to cut down than the OBDI Gen1 looms. Cheers Bennie

Performance/Budget right? Cheers Bennie

Broken timing belt means engine won’t run until the cam belt is replaced (EJs <95 models), or for 95 and up models, internal repair work and a new cam belt are sorted. If you break a timing belt and have momentum to keep the engine rotating, it won’t “feel right” compared to the same feeling you get when you turn the key off. I hope that makes sense. If it’s just the fuel pump, I reckon you dodged a bullet. Get that cam belt and all idlers replaces if it’s due for replacement. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - mate, I really enjoy reading an insight to the way you think as a business in terms that are best for the customer/client’s back pocket. I’ve never had to think this way and I can see now where some of your “short and sharp” comments come from. @Numbchux - I agree about the carrier bearing comment. I broke the carrier before the centre bearing let go on one shaft! I still don’t know how that carrier bracket broke, other than some awesome off-roading action! I’ll be looking into this further when I get a chance. And I’ll add a spare uni joint to the spares kit too. Cheers Bennie

GLF5 models are what had the 5 speed front wheel drive box. You will find them in the coupe and possibly the hatch. Make sure the L series gearbox is from a carb fed model as these units have the same diff stub outputs as your MY. Cheers Bennie

I’d replace the igniter and the coil. A dead coil will kill the igniter. Ask me how I know... Cheers Bennie

Thanks for verifying @GeneralDisorder It’s always “best practice” to get a whole car for a conversion. This way you have everything you’ll need other than a short list of incidentals. Unless you know what/how you’re going about the conversion, a whole donor vehicle is the go - then you can sell the bits you don’t need to recover some costs. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for that, I’ll have to find out if they have those part numbers available over here. And don’t you need three uni joints for a Subaru driveshaft since they’re usually two piece or fitted with a centre support bearing? I know I need three for mine... Cheers Bennie

Yep, totally doing this to my L series tail shaft. @Numbchux What uni joint did you use as a replacement? I didn’t see any model or part number reference in your thread. Cheers Bennie

The ‘95-99 harness will IF you have the matching wiring from the intake manifold and possibly the intake manifold itself too. Cheers Bennie

Go the 5 speed. Do a search for a how to guide. This has been done plenty of times already. If your ‘83 is front wheel drive only and the 5spd is 4wd you’ll need to mod the rear to fit a rear diff etc. this involves sourcing a 4wd rear end setup - K frame and swing arms and a fuel tank with the divot for the rear diff. Of course you’ll need a rear diff and drive shafts too. Any 4wd MY will be compatible. Biggest issue is making captive nuts for the diff moustache bar mounts if they’re not already there. Cheers Bennie

Try this fella? Cheers Bennie

MINT! Cheers Bennie

In reference to FerGloyale’s “driveline” term. Certainly not a driveshaft/halfshaft. Cheers Bennie