el_freddo

Yeah sorry CF, I meant cast iron! Cheers Bennie

Anyone willing to get a cast on the go for a few more? I know a guy out my way that's pouring a cast for his tractor heads. He does tractor pulls and cracks/destroys heads all the time apparently. He can't find replacement heads due to the age of the tractor (probably from the 50's) so he's casting and machining his own! Maybe a set of cast heads might be the way to go... you know, to "counter act" the performance the turbo gives with a bit more weight in the engine! Cheers Bennie

It could be a blocked heater core or a dodgy thermostat. Or worst case, something to do with the water pump, especially if it's one of those pressed metal impeller units. Are you running good quality coolant too? Cheers Bennie

^ That's different. Here's Ruby Scoo, still plugging away: and my Brumby (red one) that's still stock with the addition of PS from a touring wagon and aftermarket cruise, they're really the only two changes; white one in the background is my mother inlaw's: Cheers Bennie

Sorry Ski, but you're wrong on that. EA internals can be swapped into the front EJ cases of the phase one gearboxes. This works for both part time and full time 4wd L series boxes. For you guys you're stuck with single range swaps, over here we can do it with the dual range boxes. How do I know? I've done three box combinations. My first was an L series dual range PT4wd box into a Gen1 series1 EJ case set. Worked a treat - the input shaft bearing housing was interchangeable so I saved a lot of work there. The second box was built buy another fella, it was the full time L series AWD box with the centre locking diff, again in EJ cases (G1S1). This box had the 1.59:1 low range, an OBX front LSD and a modified diff ratio of 4.111:1. It also had auxiliary low range oil feeders for cooling. This box worked well but eventually 2nd gear let go. So I rebuilt it into it's second incarnation: It's now running with SG foz internals (1st-5th ratios) in the phase two cases, running the same 1.59:1 low range (interference bush fitted to the L series input shaft so it fits into the phase two input bearing), 4.111:1 diff, OBX LSD and the locking centre diff with the matching pinion shaft. I added the auxiliary oil feeders to the cases for the low range. I've managed to match the speedo drive gear (27 tooth gear from memory) too - so now I have a very accurate speedometer! I've not had any issues with this mk2 AWD box build. It uses factory EJ flywheel, clutch, TOB, fork etc - and it bolts into the vehicle without any further modifications The way I see keeping the L series alive is with an EJ engine - mine is on it's tenth year. I've done the head gaskets once. Otherwise it's been the most reliable engine I've ever had in the car (It's run three different EA engines!). So, anything is possible with the gearbox build - you just need to have the right parts. Do take note: The phase 1 internals will physically fit into the phase 2 cases and *should* work (I've not tried this) - but phase 2 internals into a phase 1 set of cases will fit and work - except for reverse! There was a change in the distance from the main shaft and the reverse slider gear's shaft of about 2mm or so. The reverse slider and drive gears are larger to compensate for this change and are probably stronger to move the larger models of that era. Going back to the original post, I recall some ppl messing around with the EJ piston in the EA engine, but IIRC, the bush in the gudgeon pin end needed to be removed from the EA conrod. Do a search and see what shows up - I doubt there's an update on what the end result was though Cheers Bennie

I could tell you why I swapped an ej22 into my L series over a decade ago! Still goes great too. My spark gaps are set by the recommended spark plug for the 22 as per the manufacturer's parts catalogue. Cheers Bennie

I'd inspect the clutch pedal mounts first, then the cable (replace if history is unknown) and then the clutch itself after pulling the box or the engine. The clutch might have some broken or well worn fingers/springs that the fingers act on - maybe. It could be worth swapping it out while you've got it all apart. You'd go nuts if you didn't find anything on your inspections, checked and put the old clutch pressure plate back in only to find the same issue is there! Better to rule it out if you don't find an issue in other parts of the clutch system (pedal/cable). Cheers Bennie

Best of luck with the hunt. I couldn't tell you what my L came with when I got it over ten years ago! it was probably just a hole in the dash until I installed my aftermarket head unit. Cheers Bennie

Cable clutch. Not hydro. The wrx clutch is a whole different kettle of fish! Cheers Bennie

Not left hand thread is it? Cheers Bennie

Ground wire is generally black with white stripe. Is there anything not working or the wire causing other issues? All the best sorting it out Cheers Bennie

Welcome back

I think Piv is correct about the wiring harness with LH and RH drive vehicles. Plus Australia Post charges like a raging bull for international post! A set of front corner indicators from an L series and a pack of Tim Tams or two cost about $56 to the US!! Finding a replacement locally seems like a much easier option Cheers Bennie

Worn synchros are the reason for the crunchy/hard gear shifts. If you earn to rev match and double clutch when down shifting you'll eliminate the difficult gear changes. Rev matching on "up changes" will help too. If there are whining noises in one particular gear plus always nasty gear changes up or down to that gear, it would indicate impending failure of that gear. This is from ONE experience I had with my L series 5 spd dual range box. Before it happened (600ish km), EVERY change to this gear had to be rev matched. Not much fun in mountainous driving. Worse was when the box let go in the middle of the remote 4wd track we headed out to! As for swapping out of 4wd - always on the fly! Gentle pressure on the lever will get it out no worries and can create a bang sound as the binding in the system is released. Higher the speed, generally the less noise. Corrugations are great for reducing bind in the 4wd system before disengaging it Cheers Bennie

Get an aftermarket gauge if you haven't already. The factory oil pressure gauges are only there for aesthetics, not accuracy! what oil viscosity are you using, this can have a huge effect on oil pressure once at operating temps. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... This think sounds tasty. You in Oz too since referring to the Brumby rather than Brat? The good news is that you've got spark etc. so hopefully it's either the firing order that's out or you just need to adjust the timing. And we definitely need pics of this setup/beast. Any internal work done to help with the longevity of the engine? Cheers Bennie

First easy place to look is in the Haynes manual. Yes, there it is, I said it. I recall a picture diagram in there for the MPFI TPS. I couldn't tell you if there's a SPFI TPS diagram in there though. You should find the SPFI TPS pin out in the SPFI conversion document. My copy is in a box somewhere, but I'm sure there will be a digital copy on the forum or a link to it off site. Cheers Bennie

Just use the AC compressor that came with the EJ or get a later model Subaru AC compressor. With the compressor you have all you need is the r134a valve fittings and you're set. Cheers Bennie

That shaft that is half a hole out is fitted 180* out. pull it off, rotate 180* and refit, the hole will line up perfectly for the proper sized pin I'm still sticking with the strut being the issue with this clunking sound you described earlier. Classic symptom. Cheers Bennie

Stop yelling!! PLEASE! Also in many places it's illegal to drive around without the bonnet fitted to the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

You'll need the matching turbo clutch and the flywheel (just to be sure it will all work). ratios will be different to those of a NA gearbox, but that shouldn't be an issue. Cheers Bennie

I nabbed one of these units for Sunnie the brumby then cut off one retainer clip on the underside to slot it in the factory EA hole. Fits snug and doesn't move As for the rubber grommet, surely you could use a generic rubber bung of a suitable size with the middle cut out... Or nab a decent one from a part yard vehicle. Cheers Bennie

I don't think the funnel is really the way to burp these vehicles without it being on ramps or taking it for a short spirited drive after a quick top off with the engine running. Thenback up on ramps, let cool off, top up again then run engine, top off if needed, cap on then go for a good drive that maintains highway speeds for a while if possible. Once that's done and it's cooled down again, check the coolant level and top up if needed. With the thermostat did you install it with the correct orientation? Does the upper and lower rad hose get hot? Do the Thermo fans cycle on and off? these are other factors that need to be known to help properly diagnose the issue. Cheers Bennie

Instead of a new radiator I recommend creating an air dam under the front of the L series, starting below the radiator and ending somewhere near the engine crossmember. You can add flutes that face backwards to the air dam too, this helps in creating a low air pressure system behind the radiator which naturally draws air through the radiator, increasing the cooling ability of the radiator without needing to rely on the fans as much. I did this with my EJ22'd L series with a dual core copper radiator (Nissan pulsar unit) and ran it across the Nullarbor Plain in the middle of our summer, loaded to the gills with the AC cranked. It got to 44*C outside and the car ran steady on 93*C at 110kmph. The makeshift air dam allowed us to do this as my L seems to have issues drawing air through the radiator at speed. I don't know if it's the lift kit with a modified factory bash plate rather than a custom unit (on the list of things to do), but the MAN truck grille we found on the side of the road the the trick beautifully for our return trip home. I also wonder if those little pressed metal plates that reside under the radiator on each side actually contribute to this pressure effect. They're usually left off at some point in these vehicle's lives and could be a factor on a stock vehicle's cooling ability. Cheers Bennie

Digital dash I don't know as I've not worked with these before - is this in an L series or MY? I would think that the suitable gauge would work, but the temp could be reading so low it doesn't register even one bar. If you let it heat up to cycle the fans you might see some action on the temp gauge... Hopefully someone else will chime in on this to shed some fresh light on the digi dash "situation" Cheers Bennie