el_freddo

Cool diagrams Jono! Have you not managed to find a factory pin out for this yet? You should try to find a gen2 ej22 pin out and see if it's the same. Cheers Bennie

There's a yellow/silver (possibly with a grey/silver dot) wire from the ECU. You should be able to find it in the pin out diagram. This wire needs to be hooked into the tacho wire on the back of the instrument cluster. You could try tracing the required wire in the vehicle's loom that's closer to the ECU if you wanted. I tapped in at the round plug at the back of the instrument cluster. The tacho will read correctly since it's a 4cyl swap into a 4cyl vehicle. You're correct about the temp gauge on the EJ sender Cheers Bennie

Here we go, my old man always told me it was to bed rings in and that regular small interval oil changes in the first 10k km were essential to remove fine metals from the engine internals to help reduce any permit ute wear on the mains and big ends... Anyone go yet another story about break in procedures? Cheers Bennie

Just use the factory EA wire, it'll plug right onto the EJ sender no problems. I'm not sure what the EJ's wire colour is, mine's hanging in the wind. I'd recommend fitting an aftermarket temp gauge that will tell you the actual temp of the engine. The L gauge in the EJ sender will read weird and usually be low compared to the standard operating temp displayed by an EA82 sender unit - not that it tells you much by pointing off to no where... Cheers Bennie

Where are you hiding Jono??! It's certainly not summer here! i doubt many people are silly enough to venture out in the heat with an ea82 (if anyone still drives them) and the ea81 radiator doesn't fit very nicely in the ea82 body... Cheers Bennie

The brown is definitely main power. The green plug unit I'm 99% sure is the fuel pump relay. Cheers Bennie

You need the units from the L series to make it work. Afaik it's a bolt in affair then mod wiring for dual headlights. The ea81 models need the radiator support panel swapped from the single to dual headlight unit from what I've been told. Cheers Bennie

Any transmission with matching diff ratio will fit and work so long as you stick with NA or Turbo gearbox according to your model. The clutch setups are completely different between the two. Or you can swap the rear diff to match the ratio of the new box. Or if you can find a rear housing it'll bolt up to the back of your gearbox. Most are 1:1 in the rear housing, but some are a funky 1:1.1 or something. I believe these are mainly turbo models, particlarly the earlier models. Got any pics to share on the box housing that's busted? Or is it internal? Cheers Bennie

KYB are the original factory equipment. The difference in sourcing them from anyone oter than Subaru is that oem KYBs are oil filled, aftermarket are gas filled. Both will be fine to use. Cheers Bennie

Yep I'm sure there are many forum members that can help. Best if you give a description of what the issue is. Cheers Bennie

1) needs new front struts. The old units are worn out and make that clunking sound over small ripples and bumps in the road. Replace the struts, get a wheel alignment and you'll be sorted. 2) inspect the AC belt for cracks etc and replace if necessary or just tension the belt up to reduce the initial slip that's causing the screeching. 3) replace the knock sensor and reset the ECU either by the battery dance (disconnect the battery for at least half an hour), then warm the engine up without touching the throttle for five or so minutes. Then go for a drive. You may find that the oxygen sensor will need replacing too. That should solve your issues. I reckon they're pretty small overall. Cheers Bennie

With the 5spd you have to make sure the gearbox comes from a carb fed EA82 as these boxes will have the correct diff stub to match your EA81 drive shafts. If you get an EFI EA82 box it'll have the larger stub axles like the EJ diff stubs. Stick to the carb spec gearbox and you'll be right with the drive shafts Cheers Bennie

Do a search on the forum, I'm sure it's been covered on here somewhere. Otherwise the next best thing is to study the wiring diagrams of both vehicles to work out a solution. You'll probably find the small wire is ignition switched and reference wire - so you could tap that into the ECU's power wire so the alternator is triggered with ign ON. but you have to confirm what that wire does first. Cheers Bennie

So what was the fix for those that may be searching about the same issue? Cheers Bennie

Awesome! You're bloody lucky you didn't fry something in the ECU Happy travels! Bennie

I'm not sold on those items being made in the states - country of origin doesn't necessarily mean made in that country. Could just mean it's been sold from that country's market. Cheers Bennie

Wow, same message about five times over now :p hooefully he's got it sorted Cheers Bennie

I think you're still onto a good thing if the 97 isn't like cornflakes from rust... Cheers Bennie

You could try to re-attach the wires while ensuring that they're properly insulated from each other. Otherwise grab another cam sensor. As for the ECU and loom, so long as they came from the same model (and possibly year) you'll be sorted. Cheers Bennie

Nice ride mate, jump seats and all! On the rhs of the oil pump opposite the filter mount is/should be a hex key plug. This is where the oil light pressure switch is mounted on the "povo" pack vehicles (like mine). This should be a good spot to tap an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into. Removing the hex key is the trick Cheers Bennie

You may not have injector pulse due to crank or cam sensor issues. Ensure these are hooked up correctly. Also using the EJ loom's start circuit helps starting as the ECU enriches the fuel air mix during cold starts. It's beneficial to have this hooked up... Cheers Bennie

Check/replace ECU power relay. Cheers Bennie

I can't hear my pump in the '90 brumby except on start up. It's generally quiet all other times unless sucking air when tank is extremely low. Generally with what you're experiencing I agree with Dee2 that this is a sign it's on it's way out. Cheers Bennie

Make sure the heater circuit pipe work over the top of the engine isn't leaking. That little 90* bend from the top of the waterpump can fail as many people dot replace it since it's under the AC bracket (if equipped with it). This pipe work above the engine includes the little painful hoses to/from the throttle body area There are many small places in this area for a leak to develop. Cheers Bennie

Hopefully it's an easy fix! Cheers Bennie