el_freddo

You guys are such downers! Looking more closely at the lhs head near the intake mounting area I’m reckoning this is an EA81S engine. Cheers Bennie

I think you need to identify what the noise from the engine is - if it’s a shot tensioner then replace it! The valve knock is really valve knock? It doesn’t sound like the engine is as dead as others seem to make out. If you’re going to do suspension work replace the struts with forester units as these will provide some lift. Someone will know what springs to run. Lift blocks can be added later. There are a few mobs that do lift over your way to choose from. Otherwise Subi Lift Oz over here can ship internationally All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Maybe, but theoretically it can be done. I’m still wondering why you’d want to reduce displacement... Cheers Bennie

Why would you want to drop to a smaller engine? You could put the ej22 block between the ej25 heads. No need for wiring stuff then. Cheers Bennie

With an EJ swap the L's AWD box is worth the effort, especially since they came with the dual range that can easily be swapped to the better L's low of 1.59:1. the AWD with the EJ makes a huge difference in traction in the wet! Even in general for that matter. if dual range isn't needed, shove an EJ AWD box in. The conversion is same same but different to the EA 5spd box. The rear discs are a neat upgrade over the drums. That said if your rear drums are serviced and working well, you may not notice much of a difference in performance. Discs seem to require less maintenance. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Rich. Bugger about the rod knock. Insure you'll find some answers here as to options to get this sorted Cheers Bennie

Nice L mate! Carb or efi? That'll help with diagnostics etc. I love my L - but I'm partial to the wagons And geez, going from looking at an '04 sti to the ol' L is a HUGE change in direction to say the least! Cheers Bennie

The steering column is sitting properly as it should? Same year crossmember used from an outback? I'm 99% sure all EJ racks are the same dimensions etc. being an outback, the steering extension/joint between rack and column should have a block looking section in it. The liberty/legacy unit doesn't have this block section. The only other thing I can think of is that the joint has been pushed on to the rack shaft too far, leaving little to grip on the column's shaft. Cheers Bennie

Oil pump leak is most likely the crank shaft seal - which means pulling the cam belt. It's a good time to replace the cam shaft seals too. dealer is probably quoting that obsurd price in the hope of a sale on anew vehicle. Cheers Bennie

All good mate. Im looking forward to more pics of this engine if available... Cheers Bennie

Sounds like you need to look further abroad for spare parts. I don't have trouble getting ball joints, tie rods, suspension bushes etc. I can't comment on the oil pumps as I run an EJ22 in my L. A very worth while conversion for the L in my opinion. GD will say go the legacy on that front too. Best of luck with your hunt for a good unit I love my L and I hope you do too after buying another one Cheers Bennie

If you were in Oz the EJ AWD boxes are good parts sources for everything except the pinion shaft, rear housing and the locking centre diff. If it's a 4 door RX I'd be checking to see if the box is actually the AWD or PT4wd. They're easily advertised incorrectly! If it's a two door RX it'll most likely be the AWD locking box. Personally I'd be keeping this one as we didn't get them over here ;( The spline count is 25 and the stub is larger than the standard 23 spline unit of the brat and base model loyales... You can make a suitable brat shaft - or swap the diff stubs with the 23 spline units from another PT4wd box. The real issue here is that you need to open up two gearboxes to achieve this. Cheers Bennie

Has the lower Uni joint mount slipped down the shaft? Was the steering extension replaced with the engine crossmember? If so, try using your old unit. If the engine crossmember came from a legacy the steering extension is shorter than that of the Outback's. This could be the difference. Cheers Bennie

Never seen them unless you're talking about the aftermarket RAM heads for light aircraft applications. Every other factory EA81 I've seen has single intake ports, including the turbo variants. Got a pic of this limited run dual intake port EA81 you speak of? Cheers Bennie

It's good for flying with Jono! i hunk it's got a flat torque curve - an important feature of an aircraft engine as far as I know. Cheers Bennie

The rear discs will swap straight on. the AWD box (with the locking centre diff) will require some mods for it to fit in - do a search on here for a how to guide. It's basically the same as the PT4wd dual range box swap. That RX - not an RXII coupe is it? If so the coupe might be worth hanging on to if it's any good The EJ22 wil be a good swap, but still hang on to the EA81T to swap back in later Or send it my way Cheers Bennie

The '88 is a good ride

And in English?? I don't understand why all the back spacers - what are they exactly?? why not run the EJ front struts, brakes and hubs? If you do the rears properly you'll be upgrading the brakes to that of the EJ donor. Best practice is to match the front brakes from the EJ donor vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Skishop, the ea81s didn't have the twin port like the EA82 MPFI. The twin port bit usually referred to the exhaust ports if I'm not mistaken. The EA82S is said to be a real screamer and a few levels above the normal EA81. by the look of that engine you'll need the bell housing and oil filler neck as a minimum to fit it to a vehicle. Best of luck with what you do with it! Cheers Bennie

Was the core exchange waviered? Best of luck with the install and first drive! Cheers Bennie

Yuck. Easy enough fix if you don't inhale that stuff! Cheers Bennie

I've never heard a whooshing sound when locking or unlocking the AWD box, and it uses the same system to activate the diff lock as the single range does with engaging 4wd. if you jack a wheel and get under the vehicle (with a jack stand for safety) you should be able to move the engaging arm manually with some effort and feel it click and hold on the opposite position. To verify it's worked spin the lifted tyre (do a rear wheel). If you can't turn it you've locked 4wd in, move the arm the other way and try again with the wheel test. If it is still in 4wd I'd say an interal retainer pin for the engaging fork has gone AWOL :/ All the best with it. Dual range is where it's at for sure! Cheers Bennie

That sucks for the owner Imdew Cheers Bennie

If your dash warning lights are glowing or flickering it'll be the alternator with the issues. Replace it and you *should* be good to go. It is odd that once warmed up the issue goes away. The only other thing I can think of is cleaning out your IACV and see if that makes a difference. Any stored codes to give a clue as to what to look at? Cheers Bennie

Have you checked the front diff oil level? if it's low it could cause this whining noise and it may go away once it's at the correct level. If the front diff is the culprit and become worse, it'll be easier to fit a new transmission in there. If it's a rear diff they're relatively easy - just swap the whole diff I'm hoping for you that it's a wheel bearing or something simple over a transmission swap... Cheers Bennie