el_freddo

One or two to trigger the relay. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for the donor model to confirm. If you cut down this loom with a diagram you should be able to work out how to replace this wiring. Hopefully you left it as is but not hooked up to the pump but I'm guessing it's been cut out :cry: Cheap and nasty way to sort this is to hook up the tacho signal from the ECU to the fuel pump control box in the right plug pin. But you'll still have under rated fuel pump wiring... Cheers Bennie

Wow that's a list of replaced parts. Seems the expensive way to do it I'd be looking at the temp sensor. Fans running all the time is an indicator that this is dead. It could be on the way out... IACV is another on to checkout and at least clean up. Cheers Bennie

Tools: 8-19mm socket (1/2 inch drive) and spanner set 22mm socket (1/2 inch drive) for crank pulley bolt 36mm socket and breaker bar - 3/4 inch drive for Front CVs mallet range river bottle jack and handle Pin punch Assorted drill bits and a "converted" cordless drill to run off the battery Ammo box of tools such as pliers, CV band tool, spare CV bands, screwdrivers, shifters etc Spares: Fan belts for the engine you run. For the EJ I've got the shorter belt to run just the alternator if my PS pump shags out I've got a spare ECU that'll be padded and vacuum sealed as a spare to carry. Air filter gear oil engine oil (litre it two) spare rear shock/struts radiator hoses I need to add cam belt kit to this as well used ball joints, tie rod and rack end. Front and rear shafts Thats about it from memory. Cheers Bennie

EJ pump relay required hands down. You need to run the higher rated EJ fuel pump loom. Whats happening is the fuel pump is being run by the EA control box that's not getting a revolution signal when the engine is turning over. Throw the EJ relay and wiring in there with the correct reference wire from the ECU and she'll be apples. Whoever told you to run the hp pump off the stock EA setup was taking big short cuts and must've had an early subaru where the pump ran all the time. sounds like you've got everything else sorted Cheers Bennie

Also check the waterpump for a leaking shaft seal. its odd for a HG in the ea82 to externally leak coolant. Cheers Bennie

Check engine light should illuminate when the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. If you don't see that there's an issue with the check engine light. Cheers Bennie

Dash mat for me - or an appropriately shaped towel... Or some choice "borrowed" bar mats appropriately arranged... But I stop before cardboard cut out - that's just nasty! Keeping the car covered and out of the sun as much as possible is the best method but not always practical. Dash mats can be removed for a show etc to bring your A game with the least amount of work on your dashboard - just saying Cheers Bennie

It's good to check the earth strap/wire between the battery and the engine, and the gearbox to the body (near spare wheel mount). Also ensure you've got an earth wire from the battery to the body. That'll have any earthing issues covered from the "big end". My brumby temp gauge didn't work, earthed the wire and there's no issues there - it works. Swapped out the sender. Still no dice. Made sure the contacts were clean. Still no dice. Now that I'm driving around in winter when I'm not worried about engine temps too much it starts to work again... Go figure. Cheers Bennie

You guys got the hill holder on your BRATs? Our Brumby equivalent over here never saw a hill holder fitted from factory. That only occurred on the L series onwards. As for the state of the master cylinder I'd say clean it up and see if you can see any fresh evidence of leakage. If it is in fact leaking fluid between it and the booster it's time for a new master cylinder. I'd find a willing volunteer to help you bleed these brakes. Select a brake fluid that is a different colour to what you have now, run the old stuff until low then too up with the new stuff. Bleed until the new colour comes through. This should indicate that no air is in the system if bled correctly. I'd start by bleeding the MC if possible then follow the sequence you've already been doing. That line you've got could be a spare or some odd part from another vehicle that's giving you a bum steer. I also doubt the brake line, or any for that matter, pass over the top of the fuel tank. Cheers Bennie

Only one spring. Sounds like it's hooked up right to me. My brumby is the same as is my motet inlaw's. Cheers Bennie

The kit they have in stock is for the L series and is not compatible. As for those other numbers I really don't know. Cheers Bennie

Yeah Jono, easiest way to check the wiring by earthing it to the intake manifold. Ignition on. This will confirm the wiring and gauge work which points at the sender being the issue. Cheers Bennie

Valve clearances. This happened to me on one bank as well. I'd be double checking all valve clearances to ensure they're good Cheers Bennie

I didn't want to said it first, but that was my initial thought too with it possibly being the EJ25D... Either way, EJ25D or EJ251 I'd call head gasket. Cheers Bennie

Radio unit could've died internally. Or there could be a broken wire behind the dash. It shouldn't be too hard to check each wire with a multimeter. I'd put money on the radio unit packing up. Cheers Bennie

You will always hear noise/feel air movements through the dipstick or when you remove the oil cap with the engine running. You might hear a slight change in idle. Cheers Bennie

Ive never heard of this being an issue. Without the power assist vacuum line the brake will operate about the same as trying to push a brick through the floor when properly bled. That meaning the brakes are only as good as your leg strength. @abentz The rear brakes may need adjusting but this isn't the root cause of the issue. If you've swapped the calipers or renewed the seals, it can help to fill the calipers with brake fluid as best you can prior to install. You definitely need a second person that doesn't mind doing the boring task of listening to your calls as you bleed the brakes OR use one of those self bleeder kits. You've still got loads of air in the system or you need to bleed the master cylinder. Cheers Bennie

Start by adjusting the rear shoes. These are done manually via a small square headed bolt that could be covered by a rubber boot. Many lose this boot and are more than likely seized. Cheers Bennie

What plastic clips? yep, the EA82 is pretty crap. Probably the worst engine that Subaru have ever made. That's what you get for rushing a design... Cheers Bennie

I know who it was - I wasn't going to name names! Ruined a very tidy car that he figured was worth more in parts than complete. We both know how that ended. He should've just EJ turbo'd it and been done with it. End hijack... any luck with this bit of plastic? Or is it a weekend job?? (It's the weekend now over here :p ) Cheers Bennie

I think you'll really struggle as the MY tank is very rectangular in it's shape and the L's tank is an odd shape that I think is wider. One way to find out if you're cashed up and keen. Cheers Bennie

Ah that flange gasket. I've never heard it called a doughnut before... make sure it's orientated correctly when out fit it too. Cheers Bennie

You do know of this thing called google don't you Jono? Try out this site. I got a manual or two from this site without issue. If you don't like that site I'm sure you'll find another one. I also found a site for Australia that you can buy the fsm by plugging your details into the site and apparently Subaru Australia will contact you to discuss further. Dodgy much?? Anyway you'll work it out Cheers Bennie

Exhaust doughnut? I've not heard of this on an exhaust... Cheers Bennie

That's a typical issue o the alternator. Expect those lights to all get bright on a drive soon - when the alternator completely dies. Cheers Bennie