el_freddo

Once you've got the ea82 running sweet do some research on the EJ conversion. Or skip the sweet running ea82 bit... i love my L series and have had it for over a decade now. It's "slightly modified" and can be dailyed if I need to. There are many mods for this model and the 80's forum is the place to check out. Reading member's build threads are also a good place for ideas Enjoy Cheers Bennie

I use a set of right angle needle nose pliers to turn the bearing carrier. If you're concerned that it's not done up tight enough I'd be lifting the wheel on that side, gearbox in neutral and while applying gentle pressure with the needle nose pliers in the direction to tighten up as you rotate the lifted wheel in the same direction. You can't over tighten this really unless you're reefing on it with a bar and a suitable attachment. The pressure you apply will be playing against the other bearing carrier that by the sounds of things hasn't been touched. So you should be able to get this sorted for trouble free running for years to come if it still feels loose after this fix I'd say there's another issue or you're being highly critical of the vehicle since you did the work yourself (I used to be like this too). Cheers Bennie

Yeah the dash needs to be trimmed and mounting tabs fabricated to fit that dash. Then climate controls etc don't work. I don't know if you remember the guy on Ausubi that had the flame orange/red coupe running a WRX drivetrain and dashboard. He used the full WRX heater box and under dash AC gear by welding in the WRX firewall - and got it engineer approved. Its currently on gumtree for sale again - just a cool $14.5G... Cheers Bennie

You should be able to read codes by plugging the test connectors together that are behind the kick panel above the driver's feet. It's the poor man's code reader Another thing to check is the idle air control valve on the throttle body, make sure it's not stuck/is working correctly. Cheers Bennie

Those items are all the same for 4wd vehicles between the different years with exception to the earlier model that got height adjustable units front and rear. Cheers Bennie

Those two relays are the ones you need. I don't know what the others are about but I doubt they're needed. You can test the engine outside of the vehicle once your loom is cut down, or even have the EJ fitted into the recipient vehicle for a test fire. Cheers Bennie

There will be coolant and vacuum lines to disconnect too. Mark/note these well. Cheers Bennie

Diff seals are typically different in that they're directional dependant and they'll be marked rhs or lhs. Im not up with the specifics of the later setup and the seals used. To me it's a bit early for those seals to be leaking. Are the CV clipped in properly? Cheers Bennie

Jono, that fella either didn't read and follow the instructions properly or didn't keep the revs up or didn't realise the consequences of not doing it right. Even then, pull heads, unblock valves, new HGs and off you go again. It didn't need to be parted. Anyway, all the best with sorting this issue. It's a bit of a shat-your-dacks situation :/ Cheers Bennie

EJ so worth the effort! once you cut down a loom correctly you realise it's not that hard to do and isn't a huge amount of work that it's made out to be. Your first time is always the most awkward/confusing/nail biting/burn the bloody thing experience... Once enlightened it's easier the second time Good to hear you've got the diff ratio sorted. So it's the RX variant, with alloy wheels, side skirts and ej20? Cheers Bennie

@jono Have a read Previously mentioned article supplied by GD in another thread: http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm This is the way I'm going Jono. Saves pulling conrods which saves big end bearing issues amongst other things Cheers Bennie

Aw spoob that's munted good and proper No one in the vehicle when it was hit (I read it as a drunk hit the brat while it was parked)? Glad to see you got yourself a replacement - and a targa too. Now you've got spare glass and other various parts... Not the way to get them though. Cheers Bennie

Yours will most likely be a 1.8 H4 SOHC 8 valve. You can try partsouq.com or parts.subaru.com (or subaru.parts.com - I can never remember which one it is) for parts too. Cheers Bennie

Make sure it's not an L series unit. What you want is one from a brumby/BRAT/MV as these will bolt in and have the sender unit on the rear of the tank. You might find a forum member here that has one available Cheers Bennie

You could be eating a lot of popcorn @Crazyeights! This build will be a slow burn so to speak! Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD! ill have to update how this went once I manage to get this engine together - it's a time issue more than anything. Cheers Bennie

All seals on the r160 are the same size for diff stubs. I'm sure they changed when they went to female fittings for the drive shaft. You shpuldnt have to remove anything other than the driveshaft and seal to replace it. Cheers Bennie

There should be a little black box near the steering column area. This will be an 8 wire plug from memory. This box is the fuel cut out relay if it can't detect ignition pulses from the coil. Either remove it and loop two wires together (can't remember which ones now sorry) to run pump whenever ignition is ON or reace it and hope the second unit is good. Cheers Bennie

Pull the loom. As you unplug things label them! You're after things that are engine related only. Label these as this will make the loom cut down easier. Get a wiring diagram that's model specific as this will help out identifying different wires that either go to the instrument cluster (tacho oil etc) or to other locations such as speed sensor and power wires. to cut it down start at the ECU plugs, remove all tape/conduit and tape together all ECU related wires along their paths. Once this is complete and you've labelled those odd wires you need separate, cut the rest out. This should leave you with only the wiring loom left to run the engine with the ECU. This is a good time to bench test your loom with the engine before you start to wrap it back up again. Have fun with it. I can't wait to get stuck into another one Cheers Bennie

Ok so I've read many times recently on the forum to re-ring with a head gasket replacement. I've read the article provided by GD in another thread about why you don't home to "deglaze" a bore or to bed new rings in. What I'd like to know is the procedure of how to go about re-ringing the engine from the time the pistons are out. Basically in terms of: - What needs to be checked? - How is this checked? - Do you buy standard rings for the given engine and call it a day or is it more technical than this (eg, measuring bore to piston clearances with a wire gauge then work out required ring size from this?) I ask these as I'm about to do this to an engine to get one of my project cars going and want to be clear about how to do this properly. I know @GeneralDisorder,@Gloyale and possibly @idosubaru have done this before - if you have the time to share this information or the way you go about it, I and I'm sure other members, would really appreciate some guidance. Regards Bennie from Down Under

That's not what I want to hear Dave... I'm about to swap my brumby to SPFI. And there's no spare parts over here Cheers Bennie

There could be slight differences but you'll work them out. Cheers Bennie

Probably a 2 or 3mm pin punch I reckon... I still don't know how this is done! Cheers Bennie

First gear is designed to be changed down to when basically stationary. Unless you rev match it won't go into first easily from second while moving. Fresh oil can make a huge difference too, especially if it hasn't been changed in many years. Cheers Bennie

If you do this the circlip will drop into the gearbox. It's not a push in shaft arrangement. This clip is accessible only be splitting the gearbox and using appropriate pliers to remove and install the clip safely. these aren't fun jobs by any means. I once ground the cv cup down to the axle to remove it from said axle. Once this was done the remainder of the pin could be removed. A positive of your situation: it's in the front diff which means you've got solid axles to help guide the pin, not hollow stub axles like the rear diff... Cheers Bennie