el_freddo

@3crows - are you saying that the gearbox let go/broke/has done something stupid? Engine is running ok then, just weighed down by increased friction in the gearbox? Cheers Bennie

Some muppet probably used locktite or similar compound on that bolt. It's right hand thread too - just to be sure you're applying force in the correct direction. All the best with it's removal in one piece! Cheers Bennie

Yes. Ps can be fitted to the brumby crossmember too Cheers Bennie

Definitely service the oil pump. If that fails you kiss your efforts goodbye Very interesting read GD! Cheers Bennie

I'll be going for the turbo gaskets on our EJ251 next. The stock replacement gaskets are leaking coolant externally after 80k km :/ i can't remember the part number used last time around... Cheers Bennie

EJ regulator?? Fuel pump nla - that's a laugh. Cheers Bennie

Ah that satisfying feeling when you finally nail an issue like this one! So, what's next?? Cheers Bennie

That's a big write up! There are some things that are US specific but that write up will give you a general idea of what you're in for Cheers Bennie

Stick with an EA81 rack, it'll create less headaches! You'll find PS in the touring wagons, coupes (good luck finding one to part out) and some sedans. Then you'll have to adapt the EJ power steering lines to/from the pump and rack to make it all work. Cheers Bennie PS: still can't find that thread (on phone) - it's a beige brumby owned and built by a NZ member from memory. They did an EJ AWD box into the brumby with an EJ20 or EJ22. Looked super neat! Have a search, do some reading and see what you can find on the forum, link stuff you want to discuss in here I'm off to fix the heating now (house is iceblock spec, 8.2*C INSIDE!!! - at parents place )

5 speed will probably last longer depending on your driving "style". You can still do the conversion with the 4 speed using the adaptor plate then swap in the 5 speed later on down the track. At the end of the day they're both 2wd unless you find the rare L series AWD box with locking centre diff. Even then if you stomp it hard enough in the wet you can spin the front wheel/s as the centre diff is a simple open diff when unlocked. Theres a kiwi member on here who's done a neat conversion similar to what you're after. I'll dig up the link. Cheers Bennie

You'll need the wiring from the alternator to the main loom. Then splice this into the existing EA loom. relatively simple to do. Just make sure you solder and insulate your joints really well Cheers Bennie

Loads of info on this conversion - it's been done 1000 times before! Sorry to bust your bubble but it's not a direct drop in as such. Power steering: you'll need a PS rack from a touring wagon or sedan then have a set of adapters to mate the lines to the rack - or get custom PS lines made up. Cruise control: you could possibly use the EJ factory gear - just means more wiring and nutting out how to mount all the hardware in the engine bay. Or go aftermarket. The AP60 unit works well for me in my brumby and L series ABS: well you could probably do it if you can mount all the sensors for each wheel, keep the wiring to run it all and bend up new brake lines to fit the ABS module. You'll have to relocate the battery to the other side of the engine bay. You need to cut down the wiring loom to get the ECU to run the engine. There are ppl in Oz that can do this for you if you're not game. Or use the whole loom from the donor vehicle - just splice in the plugs from the brumby loom to run the tail lights, indicators, parkers and headlights. The EJ steering column can be made to fit to keep the combination switch for indicators and hi/low beam etc. it'd probably be easier than cutting down the loom to do what you want to do. You can fit the AWD box - you'll need to fabricate the gearbox mount points - again it's been covered. You'll also need to modify the shift linkages and have a custom tail shaft made up. It's recommended that you do a two piece to avoid vibration unless the company building it does a top effort on their balancing. Or you can get an adapter plate (look up Subarino AE on bookface) to mate to your current pt4wd box to the EJ engine using the EA flywheel and clutch. But being that you're a P plater I'd recommend the gearbox mod. One issue with this is that it'll be mismatched to the rolling tyre diametre compared to the EJ equipped vehicle it came from. There are ways to sort this with a diff ratio swap but unless you know what you're doing I'd recommend someone else doing it for you or put up with the 2wd and learn how to drive appropriately. Also best to check out what engineering requirements are needed with the Nsw RTA before you start this conversion. Ej22 conversions are very common and an ej20 is a good swap too if capacity is an issue for the RTA. You could go all out with a five stud conversion to run the EJ brakes as well. Dfyol might have a set of rear hubs up for grabs to do this brake conversion - this is the key piece needed to do this brake conversion. Have a scroll through the different threads in this forum, there are a couple of EJ conversion related threads on the go recently. And there are many more before them if you use the search function All that said, it's well worth the effort, especially if you keep it sleeper with the stock look if that's what you're after Cheers Bennie

Sounds like you need new struts to me. Any signs of weeping from the struts (where the rod/shaft slides)? This is an early indicator that they need replacing - for a road going vehicle they'll still be fine for a long time to come. Off-roading works the suspension more so issues like these are more apparent. Cheers Bennie

Yeah it has to clear the alternator. That tensioner pulley does this job. Something could be rigged up if really desperate I reckon. Cheers Bennie

I don't think he's got the bracket that the pulley mounts on let alone the pulley itself :/ Best of luck on that item, I doubt you'd find anyone selling just that part if they've got a complete system - it is a critical part for it to be complete. A wrecker or parts years will be your best bet! Cheers Bennie

I'm guessing you're talking about an Impreza? Typically drum rear = 2wd. Are you sure this is a '99 model?? I always thought the drums were phased out with the 2wd boxes. I'm happy to stand corrected, just never seen it myself. Cheers Bennie

Ah that makes sense now!

It depends on what model the box came from AND sometimes what market it was sold in. Typically in Oz: - Impreza = 3.9 - Liberty = 3.7 (Gen1 series 1 = 3.9) - Outback = 4.111 - Forester = 4.111 NA, 4.44 turbo These are manual boxes. Autos are a completely different kettle of fish. The only EJ box with 23 spline diff stubs up front is the early Liberty/Impreza 2wd box. The L series 23 spline diff stubs are interchangeable with the EJ diffs I dunno about the MY boxes, it would be good if they did though! Cheers Bennie

Try jump starting it. Battery is probably low on juice and doesn't have enough to even make the starter click. Cheers Bennie

Interesting. You don't need a heater? Hot stuff mate! I agree about the ea81 radiator. I've got a copper dual core N13 pulsar radiator cooling my EJ22. It does the job really well 95% of the time - I need to work on a few external things around the radiator. .. Cheers Bennie

I couldn't imagine much difference between these manifolds... I'm keen to see what you have to show us once you update the first post (random way to do it mate, seems your enthusiasm is ahead of your "evidences"/pics of what you want to show us!). Cheers Bennie

You need to find the electric window auto control box. In older subi's (MY/L series) it's a rectangular black box mounted above the bonnet release handle. I'm not up with where it's located on newer models but that's what I'd be looking at first. Swap in a known good working unit and see if the same behaviour occurs. or you could have an issue with the motor itself, but this seems unlikely to me. Also ensure the switch is clean without any foreign material interfering with it's operation or electrical signals. Cheers Bennie

Alternator wiring you use the recipient vehicle's alt wiring and adapt the EJ wiring to it (some EJ alternators require and ing trigger wire). You can choose to upgrade the main wire if you wish. Fuel pump wiring and main relays can be used from another EJ vehicle. Afaik they're all basically the same. Cheers Bennie

Ah gearboxes... Something I love playing with and I'm looking at an EJ AWD option for my brumby (eventually). And I agree, AWD with EJ is the best way to go in these lighter vehicles My theory is to get an early liberty series 1 AWD box or an impreza box (both are 3.9 diff ratio), swap the diff ratio to 3.7 and work out the speedo drive gear to match the MY speedo. This last bit will be trial and error. The swap from 3.9 to 3.7 should be enough to compensate for the change from the larger impreza/liberty tyre diametre to that of the stock brumby size. Thats my thoughts/plan anyway. While the box is open it's worth dropping in a front LSD even for onroad driving and messing around with the low range if you want. A phase two box is also stronger if you're needing that "feature". L series low range can still be fitted to this without issue using the usual process Cheers Bennie

It's a HG leak for sure - only an external one though. You can monitor the leaks and keep up the fluid levels or you can replace the HGs with later model ones - 11044AA770 General Disorder, GLoyale and Mike104 will be able to confirm this. Do not replace the HGs with factory standard units (like I did) - they will leak again! Like mine have... Cheers Bennie