el_freddo

You might find the intake bolt pattern is different as they changed it somewhere around this time. if that's the case, swapping the heads from your ej20 onto the ej22 can be done. It may result I higher compression or no change at all - but the intake will bolt on. Cam wheel/gear swap will definitely be required. All the best. Cheers Bennie

You could drop any 5 speed box in, they'll all fit without issue. The issue will be that the model the gearbox came from will be setup for the rotational size of tyre fitted to that vehicle. So if you put an impreza gearbox in your outback your taller tyres will effectively over-gear the gearbox and the speed on the speedo will be showing UNDER your actual speed. It may also make the engine work harder. On the flip side, if you use a forester gearbox you'll be under gearing the gearbox with the reduction in tyre size. This will make your car nice and peppy but also give you high rpm at cruise. With the forester box, it could work if it's got the same diff ratio but the speedo read different due to a different speedo drive gear. You may also find a different 5th ratio for cruising. As for drive shafts, if the gearbox has stub axles, use the matching driveshaft. Ultimately the best way to go is to get a box that's been rebuilt with a warranty or at least opened up to ensure all gears are intact. What is actually wrong with your gearbox? All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

I was wonder what your strategy was there... Old mate with the parts car sounds like he's come through with a good deal And a manual swap on the svx would be very interesting! Cheers Bennie

I'm pretty sure the ea81 turbo shares the same power steering pump as the ea82... Some one will be able to clarify this Cheers Bennie

I've not seen the vivio before. Is this a later model of the justy? Pretty cool little unit that one, and the foz has a lot of potential depending on where you wanted to go with it's build Cheers Bennie

After fuses check that the switch works properly at the pedal. You don't want to go chasing a wiring issue when it's a non functioning switch at the end of the day... Cherrs Bennie

If you've removed the spider gears in the centre diff you shouldn't have any drive unless you've welded up something to power the rear end. If you've done it this way you should be able to keep the front shafts in place. But if you've simply welded all the spider gears together in place then you'll have to pull the front shafts - and leave the inner cups in place to seal the box if they're the male spline units. Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate. It any other details to share on this build? Or a thread to link to the build? Cheers Bennie

Replace the radiator - it's worth the coin for the sake of the engine. Try replacing the PCV to curb oil usage. If you're running with synthetic oil, if it's burning it you won't see the oil burning out the exhaust pipe as it burns "clean". Cheers Bennie

Neat fix there Jono. Cheers Bennie

If unmetered air is smoothing out the idle have you thought about the possibility of one or more leaking injectors? Cheers Bennie

I did this on Sunnie the Brumby last year as a part of a head gasket job. i recall my paste having two types of grit, I'd have to look for the tube to give you more information on it. I got that either from super cheat or my old local parts place that's family operated (awesome place). I had to get new valve suction tools to do the spin bit on the valves - even then the bloody things wouldn't stick to the valves to do the job. I can't remember how I jammed them in to make them work but the job got done and it runs real well now The drill trick should work. If you're really worried about the one direction thing, you could always flick it into reverse for a bit. Cheers Bennie

Digital workshop manual is the go. Do a google search for one. You'll find one Cheers Bennie

Sounds like dead spark or weak fuel pressure. Cheers Bennie

Cv axles wouldn't do this. A sticky/clicky/notchy steering Uni joint will do this. Best to pull the Uni joint/steering knuckle out and feel it through all ranges of motion. If it has a clicky/notchy feel to it get a replacement part that's in good condition. Cheers Bennie

Get a digital copy of the workshop manual for reference to the TPS setup procedure. Or a Haynes manual will suffice if you have access to one While subaru are Lego in general, small changes to ECU setup results in wiring differences and different sensors. Typically the rule with ECUs and sensors is that they need to be kept with the same model/year. Cheers Bennie

The PT4wd boxes are harder due to all the dedet balls and kit for the 4wd engaging mechanism. This is way AWD boxes are so much easier to work on! Cheers Bennie

Good stuff mate! Cheers Bennie

I'd be suspect on the TPS as Montana Tom has suggested. You say it's been swapped for a junk yard unit - was it checked prior to install? did you adjust it properly? The TPS can be opened up and cleaned out with some contact cleaner. My current one on my 22 was cleaned out in 2010 - I've not touched it since it was reinstalled following the correct procedure - you'll need a multimeter and a set of feeler gauges Cheers Bennie

Wow I did not know this! Very interesting... Thanks GD! Also a good way to force the consumer to "write off" a car due to low oil/oil starvation if not serviced correctly - only to then get a new car. Capitalism is alive and well! Cheers Bennie

What ever you wire in, make sure you have a fuse between it and the main harness of the vehicle. I've put in all sorts of things in my L series - double USB charge ports (permanent power from second battery), stereo, interior lighting etc. All you have to do is work out if you want it on with accessories or when the ignition is in the ON position. Then decide if the load of the device will require a relay to run power from the battery with good wiring (with a fuse as close to the battery as possible). Check out some youtube clips on DIYing this stuff - it should be pretty easy going if you follow some basic "rules". Cheers Bennie

Crank angle sensor could be dead Got any codes happening? Cheers Bennie

You read a manual for this? Bennie

Jono, not an industrial drying rack - an old ironing board without the cover, awesome for this type of work As for that little pin, it might be in there for good - if there's no access hole via the gear selector shaft's hole it's time for some right angled drilling (I just got one of these units from bunnings, good piece of kit to have but you will need to by hex ended drill bits ) If you've got five boxes in bits, why can't you pull one of these pins from one of those boxes to get it's size? Are you sure you've put the correct pin in there to being with? You could try putting this case half inside an oven (because I know you've got a big oven!) or on top of a decent wood heater (from cold then crank the heat to warm the case up slowly) to see if the expanding alloy case will let go of and drop the pin out for you - just make sure it's laying down so gravity will help the pin drop out Cheers Bennie

Definitely different but in what ways I don't know. And by harness I/we mean the ECU and associated wiring to the engine. Cheers Bennie