el_freddo

Yeah what Scott said. If going an ej25 harness, why not run an ej25? Cheers Bennie

Wow, I missed the downer alert! Seems that it sucks to be in America for "old skool" subarus. I daily my brumby and the L series comes out on a regular basis too, usually for long distance 4wd touring. If you really want it you'll find a way to do it Cheers Bennie

Which I can't answer any of those questions, I can give you a hearty welcome to the forum! Have a look around here and ask questions in the relevant subforum(s) Cheers Bennie

What is it about an EJ conversion that's beyond you? If you can strip down an engine and describe what the issues are you're understating your skills in my opinion. The hardest part of an EJ conversion is the wiring strip down - but again I reckon you're capable of doing it. My first and last one (not the last I'll ever do, next EJ conversion is in the pipeline a decade after the last one - that's still running very well) took me a few months to strip down, I didn't have a timeline to have it done by. Once I had my head around needing the following wires and to strip out anything that wasn't needed/didn't come from the ECU or engine it was piss easy. Wires you need (from memory): - permanent power to ecu - backup power to ECU (many ppl wire the permanent and backup power together - power on (ign ON) to ecu - fuel pump wiring - vehicle speed sensor - Thermo fan relay operation wire (negative switched) - AC wire if running AC (this one powers up the Thermo fans and ups the idle) - use the EJ starter trigger wire Throw in a fuse between these where necessary and the main harness and she'll be apples. Mechanically the hardest part is drilling the EA flywheel to fit the EJ crank in my mind - although I've not had to do this due to my modified gearbox (I won't go into that here). Adaptor plates should still be available or you can make your own with a little effort. Drive it nicely to look after that 4 speed, otherwise drop in a 5 speed while you're at it. There are loads of threads about this mod. With an EJ conversion you'll be in just as deep if not a little less financially as rebuilding an EA81 - unless the EJ needs rebuilding, in which case don't buy that one!! You could get a running donor vehicle, pull the wiring, strip it down to what you need then test run your wiring with the engine still in the vehicle - see if the ECU pulls any codes or has the same codes as pre conversion. Once wiring checks out as working, then get stuck into the mechanical work knowing you have everything you need other than an external efi pump. Do some reading on it. Ask questions if needed. Find out if there's anyone near you to help out. FSMs are readily available for wiring schematics Don't do what I did - rebuild my ea82 only to go EJ three years later, I should've gone EJ from the beginning and saved some good coin! Or rebuild/reseal an EA81 and be happy with it Either way, don't give in on the old MY if you're really wanting one to drive! My L has 520k km on it now and I still love it. Got it at 297k km 12 years ago Cheers Bennie

Fuel pump = efi high pressure pump, external variety is the one to get. As for wiring, it depends on which generation and series the engine came from - or get the wiring harness as previously mentioned, intake manifold and associated wiring/sensors etc AND the crank and LH cam gears (these will have matching timing marks for the ECU). Or find a donor vehicle of the same Gen your engine came from that has the same number of plugs for the engine to body harness - this is *usually* a way to match the intake harness to the main harness and have it all work as it should. Cheers Bennie

If you've got a gen3, on the RX models at least, there's a wire on the back of the ps pump, make sure this is connected. Now, I don't know if the GX has this. I believe it's a solenoid to restrict the flow of fluid to the rack when driving at speed to give more "feel" in the steering. At low speed manoeuvring, this would make the power steering seem heavy. Another thing to check is to make sure there are no cracks in the remote reservoir pickup hose as these will suck air. This is for the Gen3, the Gen2 has the reservoir on top of the power steering pump. Cheers Bennie

Also the cts - the ea82 MPFI/turbo one should be the same. Solder the wire and plugs on and you're sorted. I also wonder if the EJ cts can be used like this too - would need to compare resistance values and temp readings if possible. Cheers Bennie

If it's the fuel pump (from the hot treatment to get it started) swap it out ASAP. I had one die on me in the middle of an intersection when performing a turn through a set of traffic lights in the Perth suburbs - my brother and I had to get out to push the bloody thing through the intersection on a green light for oncoming traffic. I hope they enjoyed the show... replacements should be plenty. Any external efi pump will do the job. I've got a 5L V8 efi pump from a VN Holden commodore in my L series. Same size and shape as the last pump and works a treat. I'm sure there's a commonly available pump like that over your way - you've got a much larger market than us so it shouldn't be too difficult. If the parts dude starts batting on about specific flow rates etc, get the make and model of vehicle the pump comes from and go elsewhere! That's what I did Cheers Bennie

Pinion shaft is shorter for starters. There's no locking mechanism either. Rear housing would need to move with the centre diff of choice as does the matching pinion shaft. I'm sure the centre diff cases are very different so no swaps possible there either. Then shifter, tail shaft and gearbox crossmember mods are needed - but I reckon mods for the ea82 setup would be needed in a brumby anyway, just done differently to fitting the EJ AWD rear housing. Cheers Bennie

Probably not, it's happening more and more often. You should read the one on subyclub while it was still up... had a full blown back story and all. Cheers Bennie

Do you mean like this: EJ hub on the left, EA on the right - machined to fit the EJ upper gearset shaft. And yes, the input shaft bearing housings are different unless you get a Gen1 Series1 gearbox that's 3.9 ratio (from memory they're 3.9). To fix this you need to have an interference bush created to mate the EA low range input shaft with the EJ bearing. Any decent machine shop should be able to do this at a reasonable cost. And here's the diff setting without the input shaft housing in place - loads of viewing space! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum. I've just replied to your other thread Those tractor vehicles sound painful if you encounter them on the open road. It's a strange concept to me given how much distance we have between places over here... Cheers Bennie

5 speed diff is same width as the 4 speed. ea81 axles will fit IF you open the AWD locking centre diff box and swap the diff stub axles with that from a PT4wd 5 speed box. Then it's plug and play. Otherwise modify the ea81 shafts/axles to fit to the 25 plume diff stubs. I don't see the point in the rear gearbox. If you're using the centre diff to "equalise" the drive front to rear you're running the risk of chewing out the rare locking centre diff. Thow up some pics of the build when you can Cheers Bennie

Top effort mate! I wish I had this amount of time I work on my subi's!! Pooparu, good to see you back too, we haven't seen you around here for a while from what I've seen Cheers Bennie

That's awesome mate! I'm looking forward to the videos Cheers Bennie

Thread dig! Finnpower, the ea82 engine crossmember doesn't directly bolt into the ea81's position. Since Musubk mentioned running a 3 inch lift, I'd say the adaption of the ea82 engine crossmember to the EA81 was done in the lift blocks. Very easy to do it this way. Cheers Bennie

Gannon, it's good practice to move the selector forks with the gearsets so the ring and fork combo have worn together at the same rate. This also ensures that you don't have any unforeseen issues due to a slight change in something between these selector forks and the gearset selector rings. A good trick with the back last etc is to leave the input shaft and it's housing out when putting the halves together - it gives a very nice window to watch things through Cheers Bennie

I've read that full synthetic oil will burn without creating a smoke cloud out the back of the vehicle. Mum's '03 Corolla would use 1L of oil for every 4-500km of driving! Not anything to see out the back to suggest it was burning oil. We believe the cylinders in this engine were badly glazed. It was replaced with another known good engine. You could be running an oil that's too thin for the wear in your engine too. Cheers Bennie

Yeah that's probably "a bit" beyond repair ;( Bennie

Don't we all... The joys of messing around with old parts, not to mention rare ones. No way of repairing the centre diff, shims etc? This is something I've looked into but have not acted upon as I don't need to atm. All the best. Cheers Bennie

I think this post here helps out with what you're after Jono. Cheers Bennie

Ok, I think this relates to your other thread here. That pin has recessed into the hole where the selector shaft should be. This means you should be able to get something that's hook like (or something with a U on the end) to push that pin back up where it should be to then pull it out. I get this from the pic of mine below: You can see where a spring is in the hole for the selector shaft should be and the pin is still in it's original location. All of this came out and was reassembled after drying off from the wash it copped. I don't have a gearbox apart here, but I have a set of halves at m&d's that I could dig up next time I'm down there. Cheers Bennie

Put the good low range in while the box is split... That's Lego too. If running an EJ gearset you need to do a few things first... Cheers Bennie

If I've got what your saying correct, behind those retainer bolts on the side of the gearbox for the gear selector rods will be a spring and ball. Between each selector rod is a dedent rod/pill looking thing. These are all bastards to get back in place as you need to get the sequence right to do so. I'd be referencing a workshop manual to see if there's a guide on how to do it. And here I thought you'd have an electrical issue for Gannon! Cheers Bennie

August this year is 10 years on my EJ conversion from memory. And five or six years with the modified AWD box. One year involved a rebuild where a few things changed and more learning occurred in the department of the subtle differences between the phase1 and phase2 gearboxes... The L AWD box originally didn't come with the good 1.59:1 low range. I can't remember the teeth count on these gear sets. These boxes only ever had the 1.19:1 low range from factory. Good for some street racing or rallying on tight courses I believe. I hope it all goes back together properly for you. Cheers Bennie