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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    To "burp" the system it's always helpful to have the car up on ramps. I'd start with idling up to temp, let the Thermo fans cycle twice, with rad cap on give it a few revs. Then let it cool. Check rad and overflow bottle levels, top up as necessary then go for a short drive allowing the car to come up to and maintain operational temp. Cool and check levels again. Repeat if need be with longer drives. Also allowing the car to run for a bit after each drive on the ramps can help get the bubbles out Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Wiring wise it's close, mechanically it's not. Over here you need an engineer's report for an EJ conversion (which sucks balls). SPFI or weber can fly under the radar though. GD - fair call mate. I'm a backyarder so my time isn't viewed in the number of dollars as yours seems to be. Everything will be outdated one day, I like the fuel economy efi can give over that of a carb - and how well they go with the cold start. Lastly something different it's always good fun Google hitachi modification and Willy Fisterbottom - he's done a write up about jetting the hitachi and reckons he can set them up better than any weber conversion. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    If it's nothing visible I'd be either pulling the rack out to inspect it internally - a full strip down to do this, or have someone do the steering wheel work (front wheels on some magazines) while you're looking at how everything under the bonnet is working. I'm with GD - it seems like a rag joint issue. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    Let me elaborate on what GD said above. While there may not be a kit, there is a model in the L series that is SPFI equipped. This can be fitted to the EA81 - do a search, it's a well documented modification. One that I'm doing at the moment. And don't worry abou parts being scarce - I've got one of *maybe* a small hand full of these kits in Australia. You guys have access to whole vehicles running this system and I'm sure there are still many running around all over the US. Saying stay away because parts are scarce is like don't drive that car because parts are hard to find. Therefore no one should drive an EA82 equipped L series because you can't buy a new oil pump for it anymore (from what I've read on the forum). If you want it an know your way around a wiring diagram and can find a complete car at a wreckers or second hand, I say go for it. Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    Intake definitely has gaskets. Coolant crossover pipe is worth removing to replace the two O rings under it. Make sure they're genuine Subaru items Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    Shame it's a 2wd as previously mentioned. AWD in the snow = awesome. Still, sounds like a good deal in your area! It's like the ea81 - keep the oil and coolant up and she'll be sweet. One exception is that you keep a good quality cam belt kit on it at the appropriate intervals Any pics of the beast? Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    Tie rod ends and inspect/replace rack ends too. Then a wheel alignment. Or just do the shaft and ball joints, do an alignment and leave it be. I would replace bearings unless they looked like the grease was dry or they're making noises when driving. Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Different dizzy's shouldn't make a difference so long as the replacement dizzy didn't come from an injected engine. The wiring will be the same from carb to carb dizzies, that's the important part. Given that you've got backfiring, your dizzy is wired in properly. It could be the order of the spark leads, timing is too far out (talking a tooth or two out). Definitely check the dizzy for shaft play. You should be able to at least get it running with a bit of shaft play. Running on the road won't be as good as it should be, but you'll notice that if it is an issue. Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    Test connectors will be above the drivers feet - you have to remove the kick panel to find them. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    Seems like you've got a place to start... And that's at least something. I'm hoping you checked those fusible links properly - they may be solid/not broken but they can still be dead. All the best with it. Don't give up! Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    Looks good mate! Rear flare: thought of a 70's inspired inverted duck tail upward "scoop" from the lower body edge up to meet the flare? With some sort of similar scoop on the front end, either the flare or the front bar, it'll look schmick I reckon! Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    I was going to say do yourself a favour and get the O2 bung hole welded in before you pull the existing exhaust off the vehicle. But if my eyes see it correctly on my phone, it looks like you've already got one in there - winning! Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    That'll be fun in the pits... Chirp chirp chirp You move fast mate! Got the short shifter mod done too?? Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    I can't access Ausubaru.com/forum via my phone (that I'm on now), but if anyone is using an old version of internet explorer or Firefox you'll be able to access the address above and look at more than one page a day. On that site one of the members (Bantum) has posted details of these rings for 3D printing. Follow the link and I believe you down load the details then go nuts with the printing Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    Yeah no bent valve there for sure! If you're going by a tapping sound it seems to me as Subaru Scott said - valve adjustment. Tapping can be due to the section of the arm that comes in contact with the valve wearing oddly (I can't remember what it's called), this wear doesn't allow you to ever get the valve clearances just right to get rid of the tapping sound. I've got one arm like this on my ea81. You can remove the rocker arms (Which requires two head bolts to be removed) and have the surface refaced to remove this adjustment issue. Or just live with a bit of the tappety-tap. It's an ea81 after all - and nothing like the "tick of death" of the ea82 Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    You're not the first to attempt this - a google search should easily dig up a how to list of instructions. Either way, spool or weld, it's gearbox opening time, just the rear housing needs to come out to access the centre diff. Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    If you haven't pulled the head how do you know it's a bent valve? Have you tried adjusting the rocker arm clearances? If you're worried about getting the wrong valve, ask the shop you buy from about their return policy, and if they allow you to return an unused item I'd be ordering both valve sizes. I reckon the issue is either a bit of get on stuck on the valve seat or the rocker arm clearances. Best of luck with it. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    108.0 fm is the highest my head unit goes to knucklehead. Triple J Melbs is the last station at 107.5 that I can remember. I think there used to be an old pirate radio on 107.9 but I never listened to it... Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Also be looking at the other side of the car for these issues. This side that's run in hot could be doing more work than the otherside - but that's usually noticeable from pulling one way or the other under braking loads. Cheers Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    The caliper slides will not be smooth in operation, as in one side or both are stuck/have excessive friction. These can be removed, cleaned up then have some high temp grease applied to them. I'm not sure the exact grease to use, hopefully someone will be able to share that info. You may see your brake pads wearing oddly in a different angle other than parallel to the metal brake the pad is mounted to. I need to check this same issue out on my brumby :/ but it's not getting THAT hot. Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    That's funny about those frequencies you're able to access Subasaurus, we have the same sort of thing on those frequencies too! Knucklehead, I've always used the side, it's more uniform in thickness and can cover a larger area. Only thing is it's a cover, it can't hold weight. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    Head to exhaust I use high temp silicone. Works a treat until you knock your exhaust on a rock when offroading. Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    I don't know if I mentioned this before - I've used the side of an old oil bottle for fascia panels. It's a nice black with a "neat pattern" through it depending on where you cut the oil container. And the plastic is easy to work with which is a bonus. Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    Yeah mate she's beaut! Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    Nice. Glad to hear you got a whole exhaust setup as I would pin the issue on the catalitic converter letting go. As for extra fuel usage who knows what's up with that unless the O2 sensor is no longer getting the same heat to keep it inside its optimal operational temp range, which could mean you're running in a fuel enriched loop/limp mode. Cheers Bennie
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