el_freddo

Sounds like you need to look further abroad for spare parts. I don't have trouble getting ball joints, tie rods, suspension bushes etc. I can't comment on the oil pumps as I run an EJ22 in my L. A very worth while conversion for the L in my opinion. GD will say go the legacy on that front too. Best of luck with your hunt for a good unit I love my L and I hope you do too after buying another one Cheers Bennie

If you were in Oz the EJ AWD boxes are good parts sources for everything except the pinion shaft, rear housing and the locking centre diff. If it's a 4 door RX I'd be checking to see if the box is actually the AWD or PT4wd. They're easily advertised incorrectly! If it's a two door RX it'll most likely be the AWD locking box. Personally I'd be keeping this one as we didn't get them over here ;( The spline count is 25 and the stub is larger than the standard 23 spline unit of the brat and base model loyales... You can make a suitable brat shaft - or swap the diff stubs with the 23 spline units from another PT4wd box. The real issue here is that you need to open up two gearboxes to achieve this. Cheers Bennie

Has the lower Uni joint mount slipped down the shaft? Was the steering extension replaced with the engine crossmember? If so, try using your old unit. If the engine crossmember came from a legacy the steering extension is shorter than that of the Outback's. This could be the difference. Cheers Bennie

Never seen them unless you're talking about the aftermarket RAM heads for light aircraft applications. Every other factory EA81 I've seen has single intake ports, including the turbo variants. Got a pic of this limited run dual intake port EA81 you speak of? Cheers Bennie

It's good for flying with Jono! i hunk it's got a flat torque curve - an important feature of an aircraft engine as far as I know. Cheers Bennie

The rear discs will swap straight on. the AWD box (with the locking centre diff) will require some mods for it to fit in - do a search on here for a how to guide. It's basically the same as the PT4wd dual range box swap. That RX - not an RXII coupe is it? If so the coupe might be worth hanging on to if it's any good The EJ22 wil be a good swap, but still hang on to the EA81T to swap back in later Or send it my way Cheers Bennie

The '88 is a good ride

And in English?? I don't understand why all the back spacers - what are they exactly?? why not run the EJ front struts, brakes and hubs? If you do the rears properly you'll be upgrading the brakes to that of the EJ donor. Best practice is to match the front brakes from the EJ donor vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Skishop, the ea81s didn't have the twin port like the EA82 MPFI. The twin port bit usually referred to the exhaust ports if I'm not mistaken. The EA82S is said to be a real screamer and a few levels above the normal EA81. by the look of that engine you'll need the bell housing and oil filler neck as a minimum to fit it to a vehicle. Best of luck with what you do with it! Cheers Bennie

Was the core exchange waviered? Best of luck with the install and first drive! Cheers Bennie

Yuck. Easy enough fix if you don't inhale that stuff! Cheers Bennie

I've never heard a whooshing sound when locking or unlocking the AWD box, and it uses the same system to activate the diff lock as the single range does with engaging 4wd. if you jack a wheel and get under the vehicle (with a jack stand for safety) you should be able to move the engaging arm manually with some effort and feel it click and hold on the opposite position. To verify it's worked spin the lifted tyre (do a rear wheel). If you can't turn it you've locked 4wd in, move the arm the other way and try again with the wheel test. If it is still in 4wd I'd say an interal retainer pin for the engaging fork has gone AWOL :/ All the best with it. Dual range is where it's at for sure! Cheers Bennie

That sucks for the owner Imdew Cheers Bennie

If your dash warning lights are glowing or flickering it'll be the alternator with the issues. Replace it and you *should* be good to go. It is odd that once warmed up the issue goes away. The only other thing I can think of is cleaning out your IACV and see if that makes a difference. Any stored codes to give a clue as to what to look at? Cheers Bennie

Have you checked the front diff oil level? if it's low it could cause this whining noise and it may go away once it's at the correct level. If the front diff is the culprit and become worse, it'll be easier to fit a new transmission in there. If it's a rear diff they're relatively easy - just swap the whole diff I'm hoping for you that it's a wheel bearing or something simple over a transmission swap... Cheers Bennie

Which one to use is a bit of a punt. If the heads are off you could throw in new rings (won't need a hone, there's an article floating around that explains why). I'd also be getting the crank at the point (TDC and BDC) when the crank moves but the pistons barely do the same - then rocking it "back and forth" rotations as vigorously as possible feeling and listening for any bottom end knock. It's not an iron clad method but it's better than nothing and will show up any seriously bad knock. Cheers Bennie

@MariaB, have you thought about looking into the clutch packs as suggested by ShawnW in the first post? I'm guessing this is an automatic transmission issue as no one has piped up saying their manual is doing it - and a manual doesn't use clutch packs for the rear drive. All the best MariaB. I hope you get it sorted! Cheers Bennie

If it starts as soon as you're moving or very near to it then it could be a wheel bearing or a diff. As you roll over bumps a bearing (and a diff to some extent) will momentarily change pitch. If it's Uni joints in the drive shaft you'll have via ration typically under a certain load or at a certain speed. Above or below this speed it will usually disappear. And it may be accompanied with a rumbling like sound. Cheers Bennie

While everything points to a clutch issue also rule out a chewed out hub spline. If you can rip the hand brake and have the car idle in gear you can have someone check to ensure the castlated nut on either hub isn't spinning. If one of the nuts are spinning you'll need a replacement hub, new cone washer and possibly a new drive shaft if its splines are chewed out too. If there is no nut moving action then it's definitely the clutch Cheers Bennie

Gannon that lower piece looks good. I'd be trying to shave those end flanges down to keep a lip for hose clamping grip. I'll have to look into these. Cheers Bennie

I totally agree with MT! Looks wicked! How did you get the paint to look like that or is it a vinyl wrap? Cheers Bennie

The only real way to confirm would be to remove the roof lining of the interior, or poke one of those inspection cameras up through the centre interior light to make sure there are no retainer screws that have been drilled and fitted to the sheet metal. Cheers Bennie

Yeah nice trick! I need two 30mm to 40mm adaptors iirc... Might have to go custom made :/ Thanks for the info! Cheers Bennie

While physically the same and it will bolt in there are potential differences in gear ratios, speedo drive gear and most importantly the diff ratio. These differences are due to the outback having a larger diametre tyre than the legacy. But it'll bolt in no worries Just swap in the rear diff or split the two boxes and swap the gearbox diff ratio (would be easier to source a good working order replacement outback gearbox) Cheers Bennie

If the thread is into the plastic baking plate I use cheap cable ties. If into the block, it'll be trickier to sort out as the cable tie trick won't work and I doubt you'll have much wiggle room for a timesert repair depending on which bolt is the issue. If we're talking cam covers then that's a whole other game! Cheers Bennie