el_freddo

If it starts as soon as you're moving or very near to it then it could be a wheel bearing or a diff. As you roll over bumps a bearing (and a diff to some extent) will momentarily change pitch. If it's Uni joints in the drive shaft you'll have via ration typically under a certain load or at a certain speed. Above or below this speed it will usually disappear. And it may be accompanied with a rumbling like sound. Cheers Bennie

While everything points to a clutch issue also rule out a chewed out hub spline. If you can rip the hand brake and have the car idle in gear you can have someone check to ensure the castlated nut on either hub isn't spinning. If one of the nuts are spinning you'll need a replacement hub, new cone washer and possibly a new drive shaft if its splines are chewed out too. If there is no nut moving action then it's definitely the clutch Cheers Bennie

Gannon that lower piece looks good. I'd be trying to shave those end flanges down to keep a lip for hose clamping grip. I'll have to look into these. Cheers Bennie

I totally agree with MT! Looks wicked! How did you get the paint to look like that or is it a vinyl wrap? Cheers Bennie

The only real way to confirm would be to remove the roof lining of the interior, or poke one of those inspection cameras up through the centre interior light to make sure there are no retainer screws that have been drilled and fitted to the sheet metal. Cheers Bennie

Yeah nice trick! I need two 30mm to 40mm adaptors iirc... Might have to go custom made :/ Thanks for the info! Cheers Bennie

While physically the same and it will bolt in there are potential differences in gear ratios, speedo drive gear and most importantly the diff ratio. These differences are due to the outback having a larger diametre tyre than the legacy. But it'll bolt in no worries Just swap in the rear diff or split the two boxes and swap the gearbox diff ratio (would be easier to source a good working order replacement outback gearbox) Cheers Bennie

If the thread is into the plastic baking plate I use cheap cable ties. If into the block, it'll be trickier to sort out as the cable tie trick won't work and I doubt you'll have much wiggle room for a timesert repair depending on which bolt is the issue. If we're talking cam covers then that's a whole other game! Cheers Bennie

A mate of mine did that when changing the oil in his patrol... $90 of new oil all over his garage floor! You only make that mistake once if at all I reckon! The above red piece, is this an adaptor with one side a larger hose size than the other, or just a trick of the camera? If it is an adaptor, where did you get it from? Cheers Bennie

My Gen1 RS liberty: Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Dylan. Post up some pics when you can! Cheers Bennie

She looks sweet as mate! Have you gone for a cruise with the roof top removed? They used to have a bag to store it safely in the boot from memory. There may be some tie down straps in the boot too. Keep the pics coming when you can and look after that beast! (can we get an engine bay pic please?) Cheers Bennie

Front dippery sliff? DO IT!! So worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

How far between those houses? Urban town or rural setting? Rural setting could be a very long walk home... good to hear the box works sweet. Now wait for rain and take it for a spin in the wet Cheers Bennie

I noticed a change in fuel use but I put this down to running the wrong 5th ratio for the EJ, even though the diff ratio was matched to tyre size. When turning my theory is that there's more friction in the centre diff doing it's thing. Other than that there's really not much difference as mentioned by Gannon Cheers Bennie

Person I'd be cutting the linkages rather that the body work these days. I don't think the lever mount plates are different between AWD and PT4wd. If there is a difference it'll be due to the centre diff. Cheers Bennie

Jono, you're a tripper mate! Cheers Bennie

LSD was standard on the RX's. Only the RXII had AWD from factory I believe. LSD optional on the GL-10 or the GTs. Not stock on the GL or DL, I'm not even sure if it was an option on these models... Cheers Bennie

And that's for the love of the vehicle GD. My $500 L series (12 or so years ago now) isn't quite in the same category, but I've definitely spent more on it than I purchased it for - but she's modified, reliable and does what I want plus some at times. Dustin, if you're going to restore this hard top and know what you're doing mechanically etc, now is the time to do it! Also don't be stuck with just sourcing bits in the states if need be. Cheers Bennie

If you can't find a tow hook, wrap it over the engine crossmember Cheers Bennie

I've always done the front and rear up the same. No torque wrench used, just a 3/4 inch breaker bar and "some body weight" Cheers Bennie

I reckon this is the first lifted Gen2 sedan I've seen. Looks mint! Cheers Bennie

Good effort Jono! I'm wanting to do the same and was wondering if this job you did was on a manual rack or a power steering unit. Sounds like your brumby has copped a fair bit of loving in the front end work department! Cheers Bennie

Good point. Even though I spoke about that earlier I forgot that they're at college Cheers Bennie

And hence we march towards automated vehicles and are already seeing vehicle management systems so integrated and complex that it's almost like you change radio stations and you have issues! Yes I know economics play a factor into this. I know I'll be "staying back" with the older Gens to avoid programmed obsolescence of newer models. Passion for the older stuff helps too And in saying that GD, I realise you're running a business and I'm not. I guess this is why I find your advice so brutally black and white at times that can be disheartening to someone that's new to mechanical stuff that just wants to learn. And how will restorations of modern classics happen? My dad still keeps his factory restored 1929 Chev going without great issue. I can't see these models being quite like this. Cheers Bennie