el_freddo

I've always done the front and rear up the same. No torque wrench used, just a 3/4 inch breaker bar and "some body weight" Cheers Bennie

I reckon this is the first lifted Gen2 sedan I've seen. Looks mint! Cheers Bennie

Good effort Jono! I'm wanting to do the same and was wondering if this job you did was on a manual rack or a power steering unit. Sounds like your brumby has copped a fair bit of loving in the front end work department! Cheers Bennie

Good point. Even though I spoke about that earlier I forgot that they're at college Cheers Bennie

And hence we march towards automated vehicles and are already seeing vehicle management systems so integrated and complex that it's almost like you change radio stations and you have issues! Yes I know economics play a factor into this. I know I'll be "staying back" with the older Gens to avoid programmed obsolescence of newer models. Passion for the older stuff helps too And in saying that GD, I realise you're running a business and I'm not. I guess this is why I find your advice so brutally black and white at times that can be disheartening to someone that's new to mechanical stuff that just wants to learn. And how will restorations of modern classics happen? My dad still keeps his factory restored 1929 Chev going without great issue. I can't see these models being quite like this. Cheers Bennie

Our filters I think are white. I'll have to check out the last one I put on my sister's liberty as I can't remember what colour that one was. These filters cost about $20AU. Cheers Bennie

Seems like you need to run a certain cam grind from delta cams to get the best from this build. Do some reading, drop thread links in here and hopefully it can be worked out for your setup. I reckon the EJ253 (going by an EJ251 with a sports exhaust that's in the family) would be a good engine and upgrade over the stock VW donk in there atm. A fella I know over here has an EJ22 in his '80s kombi (T3??) and he loves it, so the 2.5 should be even better I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Hey Bob, I've replied in your other thread - but finding out that one cylinder is down on compression that throws a red flag for me. How do you know that the issue is a valve? It could be the piston, rings or worst of all the bore. You can certainly build the franken motor you talk about but I don't know how well this will run as a result as I've not built one of these engines... Yet. I'll leave off here for others to add to. But like I've said in your other thread the ej22 intake, heads, sensors and timing gear will bolt on and run that ej25 block. I'd hate for you to put it all together only to find an issue with that cylinder that's down on compression. Cheers Bennie

Dohc will be the EJ25D Sohc is either the EJ251 or the EJ253 depending on the year. Being that yours is a 2002 model year (going by AUDM) it should be the 253. Either way it's the sohc setup. Subarus are like Lego. All heads are interchangeable - but to what sort of performance to expect depends on what's used. The only issue is that you have the 251 or 253 I've read that these blocks are not great for the franken build, only the EJ25D is the block to use (but I could be wrong on that. @GeneralDisorder will be able to clarify). To get that engine running at the very least, use the '97 heads, intake, sensors, timing gear (including the sprockets/gears/wheels - what ever you want to call them). Again, I reckon GD will be able to advise if that setup will work or not. Cheers Bennie

There was no marking balls for me, those little mongrels went every where when I pulled the joints and cages apart. I did make an effort to keep the inner and outer race and balls separate to each other. Anyway, I'm going with new aftermarket shafts that shouldn't be cheap Chinese junk. Wish me luck. Cheers Bennie

For "USDM style" vehicles Cheers Bennie

Interesting. All GTs over here are twins... Cheers Bennie

Ooh I love that colour!! neat head unit setup. I used a block of wood, got some filler to smooth it out and never finished it... It's been 13 awesome years Cheers Bennie

So are you saying avoid the genuine subaru oil filters? I've just found them to be a few dollars cheaper than the ryco aftermarket units at local retailers here. I thought OEM was better quality than anything aftermarket. Cheers Bennie

I should send my shafts over to you as this trick hasn't worked for me But they keep on trucking even though they're noisy as hell Cheers Bennie

I'd assume that the 5 stud conversion would change the ride handling through bigger brakes - giving better stopping power and reduce the chance of brake fade. Other than that you're essentially running the factory suspension and geometry. Cheers Bennie

Shame you're not near me, I've got two sitting around and another three in parts cars over here (in Oz). I know shipping to the states would be the better part of $1000AU... Not worth it Look around, you'll be surprised what's hiding out there. Have you put up a wanted advert on the site? Cheers Bennie

I did my EJ conversion while at uni. I searched for parts on my holidays, did my research of wiring etc between assignments then put it all together in my final year over the mid year holidays If you retain the factory gearbox you'll need an adaptor plate and get used to spinning the front wheels off the line if you're not careful! Or swap in the EJ AWD box, but lose the dual range in your case due to USDM AWD EJ boxes only being single range. Really though, getting the wiring cut down and working correctly is the biggest hurdle in this conversion in my opinion. Cheers Bennie

So I'm guessing auto as you haven't definitively said so. If this is the case ignore my post as this only applies to manuals from the L series - I thought yours may have had a gearbox conversion done. Best of luck getting your ride sorted! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! The twin turbo GT? Noice! Post up some pics when you get the chance. We all love pics here! First up I'd be swapping out the timing belt for a new quality kit! That way you know the history on the cam belt kit and know that nothing is going to snap and make other bits go tinker tinker tinker together. If you need any twin turbo info there's an Australian based forum with a TT guru or two on there, they know all about the twins, vacuum lines and trouble shooting Cheers Bennie

Like an EJ conversion. Done right and looked after it's a very good swap that comes with reliability. I'm still running on my same EJ conversion done ten years ago it also makes the L series a much more enjoyable car to drive. So patch that issue and plan for an EJ conversion I say! Cheers Bennie

Map lights: grab the factory wiring and you *should* find a matching plug under your dash for them to be powered from. Cheers Bennie

Check the power and vacuum to the solenoids to ensure they're working properly. Also check the switch as it sounds like it's not engaging in the on position. Cheers Bennie

As mentioned - check the resistors in the fan ducting. There will be several wires that plug into this device. Check those and go from there to the switch etc. Cheers Bennie

The XT6 5 stud hub swap doesn't do much for suspension other than change the front strut to EJ for the bigger brakes. Two reasons for this swap 1) wider rim selection becomes available and 2) you get the EJ brakes which means just about anything from the first liberty to the wrx and early sti (pre PCD change). as for the springs, heavier usually gives a little bit of lift but at the same time you lose some compression unless you're carrying a heavier load. The Honda springs go well unloaded. I'm now looking into IFS prado springs/shocks as the next piece of kit out the back. I might end up just using the Honda springs with the prado shocks - I'm not sure until I get the prado shocks and have a play. Cheers Bennie