el_freddo

Looks good mate. It any other details to share on this build? Or a thread to link to the build? Cheers Bennie

Replace the radiator - it's worth the coin for the sake of the engine. Try replacing the PCV to curb oil usage. If you're running with synthetic oil, if it's burning it you won't see the oil burning out the exhaust pipe as it burns "clean". Cheers Bennie

Neat fix there Jono. Cheers Bennie

If unmetered air is smoothing out the idle have you thought about the possibility of one or more leaking injectors? Cheers Bennie

I did this on Sunnie the Brumby last year as a part of a head gasket job. i recall my paste having two types of grit, I'd have to look for the tube to give you more information on it. I got that either from super cheat or my old local parts place that's family operated (awesome place). I had to get new valve suction tools to do the spin bit on the valves - even then the bloody things wouldn't stick to the valves to do the job. I can't remember how I jammed them in to make them work but the job got done and it runs real well now The drill trick should work. If you're really worried about the one direction thing, you could always flick it into reverse for a bit. Cheers Bennie

Digital workshop manual is the go. Do a google search for one. You'll find one Cheers Bennie

Sounds like dead spark or weak fuel pressure. Cheers Bennie

Cv axles wouldn't do this. A sticky/clicky/notchy steering Uni joint will do this. Best to pull the Uni joint/steering knuckle out and feel it through all ranges of motion. If it has a clicky/notchy feel to it get a replacement part that's in good condition. Cheers Bennie

Get a digital copy of the workshop manual for reference to the TPS setup procedure. Or a Haynes manual will suffice if you have access to one While subaru are Lego in general, small changes to ECU setup results in wiring differences and different sensors. Typically the rule with ECUs and sensors is that they need to be kept with the same model/year. Cheers Bennie

The PT4wd boxes are harder due to all the dedet balls and kit for the 4wd engaging mechanism. This is way AWD boxes are so much easier to work on! Cheers Bennie

Good stuff mate! Cheers Bennie

I'd be suspect on the TPS as Montana Tom has suggested. You say it's been swapped for a junk yard unit - was it checked prior to install? did you adjust it properly? The TPS can be opened up and cleaned out with some contact cleaner. My current one on my 22 was cleaned out in 2010 - I've not touched it since it was reinstalled following the correct procedure - you'll need a multimeter and a set of feeler gauges Cheers Bennie

Wow I did not know this! Very interesting... Thanks GD! Also a good way to force the consumer to "write off" a car due to low oil/oil starvation if not serviced correctly - only to then get a new car. Capitalism is alive and well! Cheers Bennie

What ever you wire in, make sure you have a fuse between it and the main harness of the vehicle. I've put in all sorts of things in my L series - double USB charge ports (permanent power from second battery), stereo, interior lighting etc. All you have to do is work out if you want it on with accessories or when the ignition is in the ON position. Then decide if the load of the device will require a relay to run power from the battery with good wiring (with a fuse as close to the battery as possible). Check out some youtube clips on DIYing this stuff - it should be pretty easy going if you follow some basic "rules". Cheers Bennie

Crank angle sensor could be dead Got any codes happening? Cheers Bennie

You read a manual for this? Bennie

Jono, not an industrial drying rack - an old ironing board without the cover, awesome for this type of work As for that little pin, it might be in there for good - if there's no access hole via the gear selector shaft's hole it's time for some right angled drilling (I just got one of these units from bunnings, good piece of kit to have but you will need to by hex ended drill bits ) If you've got five boxes in bits, why can't you pull one of these pins from one of those boxes to get it's size? Are you sure you've put the correct pin in there to being with? You could try putting this case half inside an oven (because I know you've got a big oven!) or on top of a decent wood heater (from cold then crank the heat to warm the case up slowly) to see if the expanding alloy case will let go of and drop the pin out for you - just make sure it's laying down so gravity will help the pin drop out Cheers Bennie

Definitely different but in what ways I don't know. And by harness I/we mean the ECU and associated wiring to the engine. Cheers Bennie

Yeah what Scott said. If going an ej25 harness, why not run an ej25? Cheers Bennie

Wow, I missed the downer alert! Seems that it sucks to be in America for "old skool" subarus. I daily my brumby and the L series comes out on a regular basis too, usually for long distance 4wd touring. If you really want it you'll find a way to do it Cheers Bennie

Which I can't answer any of those questions, I can give you a hearty welcome to the forum! Have a look around here and ask questions in the relevant subforum(s) Cheers Bennie

What is it about an EJ conversion that's beyond you? If you can strip down an engine and describe what the issues are you're understating your skills in my opinion. The hardest part of an EJ conversion is the wiring strip down - but again I reckon you're capable of doing it. My first and last one (not the last I'll ever do, next EJ conversion is in the pipeline a decade after the last one - that's still running very well) took me a few months to strip down, I didn't have a timeline to have it done by. Once I had my head around needing the following wires and to strip out anything that wasn't needed/didn't come from the ECU or engine it was piss easy. Wires you need (from memory): - permanent power to ecu - backup power to ECU (many ppl wire the permanent and backup power together - power on (ign ON) to ecu - fuel pump wiring - vehicle speed sensor - Thermo fan relay operation wire (negative switched) - AC wire if running AC (this one powers up the Thermo fans and ups the idle) - use the EJ starter trigger wire Throw in a fuse between these where necessary and the main harness and she'll be apples. Mechanically the hardest part is drilling the EA flywheel to fit the EJ crank in my mind - although I've not had to do this due to my modified gearbox (I won't go into that here). Adaptor plates should still be available or you can make your own with a little effort. Drive it nicely to look after that 4 speed, otherwise drop in a 5 speed while you're at it. There are loads of threads about this mod. With an EJ conversion you'll be in just as deep if not a little less financially as rebuilding an EA81 - unless the EJ needs rebuilding, in which case don't buy that one!! You could get a running donor vehicle, pull the wiring, strip it down to what you need then test run your wiring with the engine still in the vehicle - see if the ECU pulls any codes or has the same codes as pre conversion. Once wiring checks out as working, then get stuck into the mechanical work knowing you have everything you need other than an external efi pump. Do some reading on it. Ask questions if needed. Find out if there's anyone near you to help out. FSMs are readily available for wiring schematics Don't do what I did - rebuild my ea82 only to go EJ three years later, I should've gone EJ from the beginning and saved some good coin! Or rebuild/reseal an EA81 and be happy with it Either way, don't give in on the old MY if you're really wanting one to drive! My L has 520k km on it now and I still love it. Got it at 297k km 12 years ago Cheers Bennie

Fuel pump = efi high pressure pump, external variety is the one to get. As for wiring, it depends on which generation and series the engine came from - or get the wiring harness as previously mentioned, intake manifold and associated wiring/sensors etc AND the crank and LH cam gears (these will have matching timing marks for the ECU). Or find a donor vehicle of the same Gen your engine came from that has the same number of plugs for the engine to body harness - this is *usually* a way to match the intake harness to the main harness and have it all work as it should. Cheers Bennie

If you've got a gen3, on the RX models at least, there's a wire on the back of the ps pump, make sure this is connected. Now, I don't know if the GX has this. I believe it's a solenoid to restrict the flow of fluid to the rack when driving at speed to give more "feel" in the steering. At low speed manoeuvring, this would make the power steering seem heavy. Another thing to check is to make sure there are no cracks in the remote reservoir pickup hose as these will suck air. This is for the Gen3, the Gen2 has the reservoir on top of the power steering pump. Cheers Bennie

Also the cts - the ea82 MPFI/turbo one should be the same. Solder the wire and plugs on and you're sorted. I also wonder if the EJ cts can be used like this too - would need to compare resistance values and temp readings if possible. Cheers Bennie