el_freddo

I bet it's just a dead seal or an unseated seal that's been pushed out from high oil pressure or incorrectly installed seal. They're clearly ignorant towards their clientele or pegged you as an easy target for this sort of thing. Also if they have one head off I'd be asking to have the other head removed, both shaved to equal height before new head gaskets are installed. They should know to replace BOTH head gaskets is best practice and about 95% of the work to do this is done to pull the other head anyway. Damn shame you've agreed to have the work done. I wouldn't be paying until they produce your old head and show you exactly what's wrong with it. If possible take a mate with some mechanical knowledge or pay a qualified mechanic to go with you "as your mate" to pick up your vehicle and check the head. Any mechanic worth their weight should have no problems showing you your dead parts and allowing you to take them for assessment. My bet is the dealer has disposed of your "dud" head already... Cheers Bennie

You can. As for specifics I'm not up with those specs to fit it though. Cheers Bennie

No need to belt these when using a pin punch and mallet. Patience is key. And yeah I may not have been very good at gauging the scale of that pic. I was also thinking of the 25 spline stub size as this is physically larger than the 23 spline stub. I'd reckon it'd be a more universal tool if made to fit the 25 spline stub axle. Much like your gearbox stand it's a cool idea and looks much more graceful than my rear bearing retainer bolt remover mk1... Cheers Bennie

I presume this is used when the front diff is removed? I can't see how the diff stub axle would fit in the pipe's hole. I've always found gentle persuasion with a flat end pin punch and a mallet does the job Cheers Bennie

I've not had an issue with the Nolathane bushes on my rear swing arms of my L series. They lasted about 200k km with quite a bit of offroading in there too. I think this event ultimately began their demise: Mind you, with that said, the above event happened in 2010 and the bushes were swapped out in 2016 and they were obviously well worn by that point. New units are in there now doing what they do best Cheers Bennie

I had a similar issue. Thought it was the igniter so added a heat sink to it (EJ conversion in an L series). Shortly after this with all going well the fuel pump packed it in good and proper. I had suspected the pump was getting too hot/something not working well when the drivetrain temp "got hot" in slow low range sand work. Heat sink on igniter and a new fuel pump sorted my running issues. The fuel pump did give a slow death/stall symptom, not a dead straight cut out as we were only going slow. But when pump gave up on the open road the engine died pretty quickly. Cheers Bennie

I've never had an issue with mineral oil in my gearboxes. 2x Brumby, L series (off-roader) and my sister's liberty are all running a Penrite mineral gearbox oil of the required viscosity. No issues. Both brumbys shift nice too. The two other boxes are much nicer than the 4 speed to begin with. L series runs a modified phase2 box. No cold shifting issues like the original L's 5speed. I've never heard of this "mineral oil in gearboxes is not good for the box" type mantra. Sounds a bit like saying petrol isn't good for cars... Cheers Bennie

I wish!! Cheers Bennie

What's your compression look like? And when was your PCV changed last? Cheers Bennie

^ remove the * from the last coding bracket. The trick is working out how to share the photo on a forum - you'll need to find the specific code on your photo account to share it as using that link address doesn't work, nor does the one once the image is displayed in your account on my screen. So it's something you'll have to find within your photo account to see it on the forum I hope that's clearer than mud! Cheers Bennie

It really is the truman show at times... Cheers Bennie

The aftermarket wheel bearings have the roller surfaces as one complete unit, the spacer on the axle is typically built into the bearing eliminating the extra rings - basically making a 6 part bearing into a three part bearing package. It's the same kit at the L series. No part numbers from me I'm sorry. As for the brake slave cylinder - I just go with what my parts store gives me for my year of vehicle. Just make sure you do both at the same time with the same part number and you can't go wrong. Cheers Bennie

Mate, my ultimate Subaru to own!! But we didn't get them down here Another mate is selling one but it's bad timing for me atm One of three known units in Oz too!! Keep her alive, she looks real sweet in the dark red/maroon! Drivetrain specs? SPFI/turbo AWD?? All the best with the repairs. Dog act! Cheers Bennie

_ is the long flash o is the short flash for the ECU codes Simple and effective I thought I'd be doing what idosubaru has suggested Cheers Bennie

Do the input shaft seal while the box is open. It's worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

Skip, true that. And yes, gas struts/shocks will sit a bit higher than oil filled units... Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum. More details on the issue would be helpful! But there is a little black box above the driver's feet that is a safety device. If no spark is detected this box does not power up the fuel pump. Apparently it can fail from time to time. You can pull this box and bridge two pins to make the pump run when ever the ignition is on. Or it's a fuse if you haven't checked that already. Cheers Bennie

Nah mate, this diff is shelved until I have an appropriately sized shim made up. Even then I'm not sure how well it'll go as I reckon the spider/planetary gears have also chewed out the housing as they've rotated too much - as off someone's run the wrong rear diff ratio or been doing line lockers (diff not discoloured from heat so think this can be ruled out). Cheers Bennie

I'd be making sure it's actually in 4wd. If one front wheel is spinning, at least one rear wheel will spin too when in 4wd. Make sure nothing is broken - shifter linkage for 4wd, tail shaft, driveshaft or that the rear hub(s) haven't chewed out the splines on the stub axles. If these rotate when stationary they're dead. If the check out I'd be looking at the 4wd mechanism inside the gearbox. Cheers Bennie

If this outback has the H6 engine in it, the overheating may have damaged the cam chain tensioners, which I'm 90% sure are some sort of plastic sliders. Melt the plastic and you could have metal on metal cam chain operation, which I'd imagine would be noisier than usual. Blown head gasket should've been something the dealer tested for before handing the car back to you. Hopefully there's no long lasting damage from being overheated. Cheers Bennie

Series 1 single range PT4wd L's is where you'll find this push button gear selector in Oz. But it'll probably be the wrong colour that you're after. What I was actually dropping in here for was to share those centre diff slop pics: I'm not even sure it's got that spacer ring in there. If it did it'd probably need a 4mm one! Cheers Bennie

Your factory shocks must be different to ours... My L series: Front and rear sturts/shocks swapped at ~380k km. Rear shocks replaced with KYB aftermarkets (gas) at ~470k km. Now at 520k km and the fronts probably need replacing, but am yet to check for leakage. This unit is my offroader. My Brumby: rear shocks replaced at ~200k km Sister's liberty: front struts replaced. 350k km at the time. The brumby sat for a very long time (outside I assume) so constant use seems to be good for shocks. Dust and dirt is also a killer. Those plastic boots on the shaft are good for the shocks Cheers Bennie

Three wire O2 sensor will really only help on initial warm up and maybe around town driving in winter (I guess). When pushing hard I highly doubt it'll need the heater element to keep the O2 at optimal temp under these conditions. Front springs I can't help with I'm sorry. But might have to check it out myself Cheers Bennie

Drop the setting on your rear axle to allow some of the tension on the torsion bars to be reduced. This will lower the rear end and hopefully stop the shocks from topping out. New shocks will never ride the same as worn shocks - that's the whole point of replacing them in the first place! Cheers Bennie

Yeah thanks, it does put some perspective on how long your gearbox oil has done it's job. Really if it doesn't get water in it or it doesn't all leak out it should last the life of the vehicle in theory. Cheers Bennie