el_freddo

On the SPFI system there's a purge control solenoid. I hadn't thought about what's on the EA81 system atm. Might have to look into that one. Air box: I've got a VL unit somewhere - or was going to us a classic range rover cylindrical air filter. Either will be more than good enough for what I want to do I just need to find both of them then workout which one best suits my application. I'm looking forward to having this sorted in the next month or so between work Cheers Bennie

Cost, good question! It's been 10 years this year since the conversion was done! I shopped around for parts when they were cheap. Best way to do it is get a donor car - then you have just about everything other than the external high pressure fuel pump. You will need the engine harness, ECU and loom, intake pipe work, airflow metre, air of, O2 sensor (in the Y pipe). I had a copper radiator back then and had to have the ports changed. Top one was 45 deg angle to poke towards the engine, lower one to do the same horizontally rather than vertically. An increase in size to 40mm dia will have you using the EJ hoses. The other way to do it if you're this way inclinded: mount a dizzy off the rhs cam at the back of the engine, mod the intake to accept some carby of choice. Or find a factory EJ carb setup - more common over there than they are over here. Cheers Bennie

Yes it certainly would Dave. I need to know how to route the crank case ventilation pipe work, where the purge control solenoid line run for proper fuel tank ventilation and what the small port on the back side of the intake almost above the throttle body is for/where it's plumbed in. Thanks heaps mate! I'm looking forward to having this sorted! Cheers Bennie

Ironic from the bloke that always dissed facebook. Even more ironic is that you won't find me anywhere on there now... Thanks for the idea though. Cheers Bennie

Well you have multiple posts one after the other as if you've just finished one thought/message, post it then start another one straight after as you have another thought/message. Please take this as constructive criticism. And GD, you've changed. You used to give good advice and seem to be a bit of an advocate for the EA81. Now it seems that you'd rather spend a bit of your expensive time to grill others rather than not say anything at all... Back on topic, years ago when I did something "crazy" with an EA82 MPFI conversion into a DL L series (before I knew of forums etc) I purchased a full engine gasket kit that was aftermarket. Initially I found this confusing as it had just about every gasket for every variation of the EA82 - many that I didn't need. Now the disappointing thing is that I can't comment on how well they went as the engine died from overheating when the radiator end tank let go. That freshly built engine was a throw away. Learnt a lot about EFI systems etc and now have an EJ22 - having an idea of how these systems work certainly helped with that conversion. Now I buy my gaskets as needed from Subaru or partsouq. Cheers Bennie

Really? No one? I find that surprising. I'm still living in hope that someone with either an EA82 factory SPFI or an EA81 SPFI conversion will be able to post up some pics! Cheers Bennie

Engine mounts: Hammer the little bump flat at the outer edge of the engine crossmember's mount point and file the engine mount holes outwards. I can't remember how far as I did this about 8 years ago. A set of wedges are good for keeping the engine mounts sitting flat. Wiring is a big one for many. Get this right and you're sorted. If you can bench test the engine and your wiring and all goes well you know you've completed one of the hard parts! If you've got power steering the EJ stuff will bolt right up at the hoses on the engine crossmember. I used the EJ throttle cable and had to modify the hole in the firewall to accept the EJ cable. Otherwise once the wiring is in it's "just" hooking up the required wires for ignition, vehicle speed sensor (if you want), permanent power, backup permanent power (from memory. Some ppl tie these two in together IIRC). I also used the EJ starter wire for the starter trigger - the EJ ECU references this wire to richen the mixture or something to help with cold starting. Keep your EA engine loom and use the coolant temp wire and oil pressure switch wire on the EJ - saves messing with a few more wires. Radiator mods or a replacement radiator will be required. I've heard of ppl using the BRZ radiator - but you'll need a filler neck either added to the radiator or have a remote one fitted into the top rad hose. I've used an N13 pulsar radiator, slid to one side to clear the cam cover with the lower outlet. Works alright if I'm not doing steep slow climbs or driving in +35*C heat Also, while you've got the EJ on the floor, a good idea is to mark an spot to place the EA temp sender on the coolant crossover pipe. Remove the intake manifold and the coolant crossover pipe, have someone weld in a small plate where you've marked for the EA temp sensor. Drill and tap the hole to the appropriate size/thread. This will have your factor temp gauge behave the same as always. This is one thing I wish I did with my conversion. The EJ sensor reads low on the EA instrument cluster. Cheers Bennie

Probably the cam belt tensioner needs replacing. I had a new aftermarket one die within 20k km. Replace with a genuine unit if possible! Cheers Bennie

We didn't get the justy over here so zero parts availability on that front. Last week I got a genuine oil filter and sump plug washer for $21. Aftermarket was $26 - no brained as to which way I went... Cheers Bennie

Well those parts would be in my possession now Jono! Yeah I've seen this setup on our driver's side head. I might even have a pipe to use too if I can sort the hole properly... Cheers Bennie

Touch wood I've not had these issues with the oil pump. I've always removed the crank pulley and have done a pump removal in the car several times. All the best with fitting a new pump! Cheers Bennie

G'day all, I'm working on an SPFI conversion that's made its way to Oz, originally from Alaska! I'm chasing images of the setup for the intake manifold. My kit did not have an intake manifold included, TomRhere was kind enough to sort me out with one - not to put it all together and get the plumbing of the EGR, crankcase ventilation system etc correct. If anyone here that has an SPFI system that's easily accessible, could you please drop the pics below this post or in my other thread in the retrofitting subforum? I'll be especially interested in converted EA81 engines, and I'm wanting to see how the EGR exhaust pipe piece is fitted - I've read about the factory pipe from the EA82 fits to the EA81 - I don't have this pipe so I'm hoping to work something out. I also don't have any exhaust holes in my RHS head... so keen to see what the go is there. Any pics appreciated! And yes, I've done a google image search, no real good ones that are suitable for my needs atm. Regards Bennie

I can't remember the last lifted roll call thread that I posted to... But still going - Ruby Scoo: EJ22 conversion (2008?); dual range L series AWD locking centre diff box, 1.59:1 low range, oil feeders over the low range, EJ front cases (uses all factory EJ clutch/flywheel setup), front LSD, 4.111:1 diff ratios; Three inch lift kit, believed to be a BYB kit 27 inch tyres Safari snorkel Still running an open rear diff from 2014: Fulton's creek track, Walhalla, VIC (southern foothills of our alpine area) Cheers Bennie

Contrary to Jono, I've fitted PS to both the brumbys in our family. Oddly it makes the vehicle feel lighter/sportier - I can throw the brumby through corners heaps easier and haven't noticed a drop in performance. If you doing a bit of a build get the later model heads - the ones with the black rocker covers. These covers could have been changed but generally are not. The later model heads have a larger intake valve. Dizzy: make sure there is no shaft play. This will have a detrimental effect on your timing and thus performance. Cheers Bennie

ECU pics to help identify if this is the early or late black ECU. I'm hoping for the later black unit! And the missing wires/pins from the ECU plugs: I've read that I'll need the neutral switch wire, so I'll add that in. For the vehicle speed sensor it seems to come down to whether I have the later ECU or not. AC signal would be good to work out as I want to run my AC and have the ECU idle up to take up the extra load of the AC compressor when in operation. If anyone knows what I need to do here I'll be very appreciative! I'm keen to get on top of these two issues before I go ahead and start laying the wiring out in the engine bay. Cheers Bennie

G'day all. I'm looking for some information to help me out with an SPFI kit I'm keen to get onto my Brumby (BRAT) as soon as I can. So any gurus out there, I'm keen as mustard to hear from you about this. We didn't get this kit from the factory over here, so it's originated from the states! I've done a lot of reading tonight on the forum but haven't turned up much. This document, I believe by GD has been most helpful once I was able to find a link that worked. Firstly, I've got a black ECU - how can I tell if it's the rare auto unit that no one seems to want? I'm hoping it's not this model. The number in the: - first line is 22611 AA392; - second line: MECF-022; - third line: "8219" (pressed into the sticker) and 4E. Large number beside these lines is "42" (the answer to life, the universe, everything ) and has 3 plugs. Hopefully someone will be able to identify what type of ECU this is. What I have found is that I DO NOT have at the ECU plugs: F106 plug: - pin 22: Car speed sensor - pin 32: test mode connector F107 plug: - pin 47: AC control F108 plug: - pin 6: AC signal - pin 14: Neutral switch Also missing that I don't need are all the Auto trans pins/wires. I have no idea who cut this loom down originally, I'm certain it was cutdown in the US before it landed in Oz - but I'm wondering if it's common practice to remove the pins/wires at the ECU plugs where they're not needed? (from memory on my EJ22 loom cut down, any unused wires were clipped off about 3 inches from the plugs and moved aside from the wires I was using just incase I ever needed them for anything - which I haven't for the last 8 years). I see that removing unwanted wires from the plugs could be a high possibility - but I would've thought clipping the wire at the plug would be easier than removing the whole pin. So I'm looking at adding the pin 22 car speed sensor and/or the pin 14 neutral switch. The ECU has all pins in each plug - whether or not they're connected to anything I don't know. I want this to run right the first time and if it means adding wires I'm all for it. I've already found a redundant yellow/trace green wire for the temp sensor to temp gauge wire that won't be used so that can be re-pinned to the ECU plug for the neutral switch OR the vehicle speed sensor as they're both the same colour (just to be extra confusing!). Now my issue with the vehicle speed sensor: I'm not certain that our brumby (BRAT) instrument clusters have one in them. I know the L series did but I'm doubtful that I could transfer the guts of the speedometer over and have it all work as it should if it were to fit properly in the first place. Is there any way around this or should I just focus on fitting the neutral switch? The brumby will be going 5 speed L series box eventually (that is looking like shuffling up the list as this will take longer than I anticipated). I also want to run my AC - is there a wire that I can reference to the AC signal to tell the ECU that the AC is on? Any details on this would be appreciated! I have to extend some sensor wiring - namely the AFM and the O2 sensor's wiring. Is there any way that is recommended to do this - or anyone know if the shielding can be added (and soldiered to the remaining shield mesh) to avoid interference? Is it ok for permanent power to reference the positive 12v at the ignition switch? It'll be fused. I ask as this will be a shorter run for this wire rather than going all the way to the battery on the other side of the car... I'm wanting to run the anti pollution gear too. Call me nuts, but I want this to run properly/factory and do the right thing in the emissions department - simply to cover my butt in the event it gets tested for whatever reason. TomRhere sorted me with a bare SPFI inlet manifold - a piece that I was missing from the kit (THANKS MATE!). The only problem is that I thought all the gear to go on the inlet manifold was included from my mate that bestowed me with it (Tweety - the EA81 powered panther trike for those that remember it). That's not the case. So now I'm wondering, is the EA81 EGR device compatible with the SPFI setup or do I need the specific SPFI unit (or will MPFI work?)? Same purge control solenoid shared with the MPFI setup? If so I have each of those to get me sorted. I'm hoping the EGR pipe to the head is easily modified from the EA81 or an EA82 carb intake manifold. If not pls let me know as I'll have to find one stateside... The funky O ring under the throttle body seems to have shrunk a little. Is there any way of sealing this area without that O ring, or should I be shopping for a new one stateside (if still available)? I can't see me refitting the current one without pinching it and causing my engine to fill with coolant... Or is there a trick to fitting it - like gently warming it up to allow it to stretch/expand? I'm not sure how the crank ventilation system works on this. From pics I've found tonight all I can see on the EA82 SPFI's is that each cam bank ventilation pipe comes into a T piece then into the back of the intake pipe. Is this correct? Am I simplifying this system too much? How should it be hooked up to the EA81? I think I've left the PCV out of this equation (also need to find one of these). What is the other little opening/port behind the first "U" in SUBARU on the intake pipe? Other fun stuff: I'm missing all vacuum hard lines, so that should be fun to work out what I need there. I'm looking forward to having this on my EA81 - and hope it sorts out a pinging issue I'm currently experincing. I believe this is from the original carb being tired. So thought it a good time to swap over to the SPFI kit. Being that my vehicle is Right hand drive, the ECU will be located above the passenger's feet, wiring for ignition/start etc will be extended over to the ignition switch via a fuse panel. The rubber gommet on the passenger's side is not used for anything so pulling the wiring through that should be some fun and will hopefully look neat once done. And to show off my Brumby (need to get some dents sorted, the driver's door really lets the whole car down): No, you can't have my 5 poster (bullbar). Build one yourself - many of you seem to have awesome fab skills! Yes, that is my actual number plate And one with Tweety after having this SPFI kit on it, then going draw through carb supercharged until finally settling on a freshly rebuilt EA81 with a weber: I'm looking forward to hearing from the gurus to help me get this sorted and running like a dream! Regards Bennie

link to GD's write up is broken or missing Bennie

Bubbles in the coolant means a weeping/blown head gasket if the cooling system was properly bleed to begin with. I'll have a play with my ej22 and see if a disconnected temp sensor will trigger the Thermo fans. It's the brown plug on your driver's side of the coolant crossover pipe. A real PITA to get to. We need those actual temp readings to properly know what's going on. What was the reading of the mechanic's IR thermometer? Even at normal operating temp you shouldn't be able to touch the upper radiator pipe or any other part of the engine for that matter... Cheers Bennie

Ea82 in a brumby/MY is a step backwards. You're "upgrading" to more oil leaks and less reliability with the rubber band cam belts. If you want to make the ea81 "as good as" the EA82, put the EA82 intake manifold on the EA81 long block. Bigger carb will almost always help with performance... Cheers Bennie

When the pedal is on the floor has the clutch fork actually moved? Have you checked the cable at the top of the pedal to ensure it's still hooked up properly? I hope it's an easy fix! Cheers Bennie

Oil or some form of grease etc on the cat that's burning off. Check your cv boot above the cat to ensure there's not a little pin hole in it - although this should be obvious as you'll have cv grease splatter in every direction in line with the hole. Cheers Bennie

You should also decide on what your upgrade choice is so the shop can give you an accurate quote. Rebuild the ea81 with a mid cam etc OR Convert to an EJ engine of some description (pick one). If going the EJ route it's best to do some research and if possible get a list of required parts from the shop for you to collect prior to conversion beginning Cheers Bennie

I still can't get over how much of a problem this is in the states. In a Australia we simply don't hear about these dead EJ25Ds! I believe Subaru Australia did a factory recall for the head gaskets and replaced rings at the same time. Good luck with your ride L5wolvesf. I'm also wondering why the later ej251 from the Gen3 isn't an option. It's a good engine if looked after. We've got one in the family with 370k km on it and still going strong. HGs done 50k km ago, don't know if they were done before this. Cheers Bennie

Make up a new piece of tin to replace it. The heat shield isn't made of special material, some light sheet metal or even some corrugated roof iron would do the job. Cheers Bennie