el_freddo

Something like this is what I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Electric-Turbo-Oil-Scavenge-Pump-12v-DC-Scavenger-Twin-Turbo-Return-Line/151065464535?epid=1158587890&hash=item232c340ed7:g:FsgAAOSwwpdW2QLo&vxp=mtr Not the exact one I had in mind but it’d do the job. Hooked into a switch you only use it when climbing Cheers Bennie

Other trick is to slightly overfill the gearbox oil if you don't want to split the case and go through this much work. Not as effective but may help - or show up some new oil leaks. Cheers Bennie

Have a read of Phiz's build thread. He's done exactly what you want to do, only his is with an EJ25 - I'd recommend an AWD box with that setup! Cheers Bennie

Yep it's been done a few times over here. This is my dual range EJ cased L series AWD box with the low range oil feeders: The oil pickup comes from the rear housing where there's a redundant switch (single wire hanging out) - perfect for oil collection on hill climbs. This is the switch bolt in the pic where the oil pickup comes from. I don't have an image of my oil pick up line or the pump (that I can find yet): You can just make out the barb fitted for the oil pick up in this pic: The pump I use is not ideal at the moment - just a jiggler fuel pump that's found in any MY or L series carb'd version. I only use it when the gearbox is up to temp. I need to get a brass geared unit some day... Main aim of this mod is not to lubricate as such, but to reduce the heat in the gears with lubrication as a bonus If you have a whine this may reduce it a bit, but it also may not as the damage is probably done already but it'll reduce any further heat related damage to the gears and that's a good thing. Personally I'd do this to the L series 5 speed box and leave the 4spd alone. Drop a front LSD in there while you've got the box out Cheers Bennie PS: Welcome to the forum

The touring wagon came out in the EA81 and EA82 models. The car in question is a GT version - turbo variant. This is where the 1500 release number in the states comes from. There will be loads more GL touring wagons kicking around in the states with the EA82 carb and MPFI variants if the engine options are anything like what ours were. The high roof continued over here in all liberty wagons (up to Gen3 - I'm not 100% sure about Gen4 onwards), there were no flat roof units over here. Where as the states got the flat roof legacy with very few high roof units around. The legacy name was not allowed in Australia due to the returned solider's Legacy organisation/institution. So it's very easy to spot an imported legacy over here. Cheers Bennie

Bugger

Did you do the one crank rotation between fitting each belt? I didn't do this back when I was learning about these engines and while it ran, it wasn't much fun and didn't like to idle. If you lined up the three marks and installed both belts, you'll need to line up the three marks and the cam mark, remove one belt and rotate the crank 360 degrees and reinstall the cam belt as per alignment procedure. Then re-tune the timing I know the hotwire AFM needs 20 deg BTDC static, I'm not sure if this is correct for the flapper AFM setup as I never played with these. Cheers Bennie

I don't think it's going to work out fellas, thanks for the offer though. I don't know anyone in Singleton or near that area and it's just too far north to justify a quick drive to pick it up Thanks again though! Cheers Bennie

I'm running an auxiliary loom that references the factory loom to switch a set of relays from high to low beam etc. This reduces the amount of wiring the voltage/current has to travel through to get to the lights. This also provides better/newer wiring for voltage/current to run through to the lights, increasing light output intensity. You can get these cheap on fleabay and may have to swap some wires around to make it work properly. I can't remember what I moved but it's all working well and throws really good light now. This is the sort of thing I got: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H4-H1-Headlight-Wiring-UPGRADE-Harness-Unloads-Lamp-Switches-4-LAMPS/152814036916?hash=item23946d27b4:g:560AAOSwN8FZqosp ^ This one wasn't available when I got mine, otherwise I would've gone with this kit. Cheers Bennie

Hey Al, That would be awesome but I don't know anyone in that area or who frequents that area I've got the 6 gauge cluster and matching wiring, I just don't have the dash to house it in... The 5spd shifter knob would be awesome though if you've got one! My mother in law needs one - she once drove my L series for 2hrs in 4th at 100kmph because her brumby was a four speed! Cheers Bennie

And it doesn't have to be slapping much to make that noise! Cheers Bennie

I think you'll find that unless you install a largish tank it won't really work as intended. To do this you first need to work out if the pump is high volume low pressure or low volume high pressure. If high volume low pressure you'll be in business. If it's the other way around it'll take ages to replenish the tank after one or two tyres are filled. Best to convert an AC pump for this job - or just go with an off the shelf electric pump hooked into a larger tank with a pressure switch and some neatly placed air fittings on the car for easy access Cheers Bennie

You'll never see an awd brz, the engine is too far back - part of the reason why it's rwd. The other reason for the engine being so far back is for weight balance front to rear. Toyota and Subaru decided to let the market decided on forced induction since the wrx platform took off in the aftermarket department for go faster bits back in the day. It'll probably turn out to have the same sort of lifespan as the Mazda mx5 if global sales keep up. Cheers Bennie

Find a boss/friend/landlord that lets you have two or more cars. They can't dictate that to you over here! Cheers Bennie

We only ever got the JDM's over here as grey imports, same drivetrain as the rxii coupe - turbo awd Cheers Bennie

You can change the final drive ratio - some won't like this but I've done it anyway: Cut and shut on the pinion shaft to the desired ratio. My L series runs the RX dual range AWD locking centre box with 1.59:1 low range (plus oil feeders over the low range to keep it cooler on long climbs), phase two EJ front cases and matching gearset, EA AWD pinion shaft modified to 4.111:1 ratio, EA AWD centre diff lock. It can be done but the cut and shut bit is the expensive part. With the use of the DCCD centre this box build is basically obsolete over here. To fit the 4.111:1 crown wheel I had to shave part of the teeth to clear the large gears of the 1.59:1 low range. If going 4.44:1 you have to shave off more, but I've heard/read that you're not interfering with the pinion and ring gear's contact area. Best would be creating a low range before the centre diff that's more inline with a "tradtional" 4wd gearbox. But that's more $$$$s plus R&D time. Cheers Bennie

Notch the cam covers, done. Yes a small gap each side of the engine for crap to get in but most EJ20 turbo/DOHCs don't see a lot of offroad action. Cheers Bennie

I'd go with an intercooler, a water to air unit is subtle and doesn't require a hole in the bonnet for air to pass through the intercooler. With such a rare Subaru, I wouldn't be pushing that engine too hard for performance. We didn't get any turbo MY's over here so you're pretty lucky! Look after it, keep it running sweet as I believe it'll only appreciate if kept in the right condition Most of all, enjoy a very unique subaru! Cheers Bennie

I was going to do the same but using a set of VL commo electric mirrors as they were square and slim - and back then readily available in the parts yards. But I never got around to this, it was the last mod to do on Sunnie the Brumby in the comfort department for my mother inlaw - but she's pretty happy with the way it is. We've now upgraded the factory seats to Honda Integra DA9 units. They fit really well, look good and "hug" you when you sit in them Glad to hear you've got the 6 gauge and intermittent wipers. These two things are what I need to do with my brumby, but finding a good dashboard to house the 6 gauge in is proving difficult on a small budget... Best of luck with the mirrors, I reckon it'd be a sweet little addition to the brumby modernisation project! My other issue is also where to put the switches for the electric mirrors as the Auto up/down window switch takes up one prime location just near the ignition barrel and on the other side of the column has the driving light's switch. I'm also gearing up for the 5 speed conversion on Sunnie the Brumby, I think I've got everything I need except for time :/ Cheers Bennie

Have a read of this build, post 16 would be the one to read about how they did the WRX front end in the brat. A guy over here did a full conversion like this to the GLF hardtop (coupe). He grafted in the whole WRX firewall to make a lot of things easier and to run the WRX climate control gear in the cab with the matching dashboard. Turned out really neat (and is up for sale again) but unfortunately all his pics of his build are lost on the interwebs Cheers Bennie

What's the go with the area between the valves on the top combustion chamber in the second pic? That doesn't look right to me... Any cylinders drop a pile of coolant when you removed the head? Cheers Bennie

What a dilemma... Glad it's not me (sorry). I'm one of those lucky ones, while she might not pitch in to work on them she's happy for me to go yarding etc to keep our small fleet going (or parts gathering for projects). Of the two I'd go with whichever vehicle you enjoy looking at the most or that you like to work on the best. I've got my fleet but it's missing an RXII coupe - that never landed on our shores ;( Cheers Bennie

All coolant hoses, including those little painful ones around the intake manifold. If the sump gasket looks like it's leaking resealable the oil pump - and remove the crank pulley to do this! Don't be lazy as it'll cost you an oil pump Cheers Bennie

I did it years ago as a temp rad... its a different height to the L series, got close to the EA82 and in general was not a very nice looking setup... N13 or N14 (can't remember now) pulsar rad on the other hand, nice fit once moved over to clear the EJ22 cam cover. Got a dual core unit and it handles temps very well even with my crappy bash plate that does nothing to help create negative pressure in the engine bay to help draw air through the radiator... we drove across the Nullarbor in 43 degree heat with AC cranked and the car fully loaded without any issues Cheers Bennie

To increase brightness with the factory lights on my brumby I've installed a new wiring system that improves the amount of voltage/current at the lights. It uses a set of relays that reference the original system to reduce the path the power has to take and do this with newer wiring. The results are chalk and cheese in comparison. Well worth the $20 from China even though I had to swap some wires around so that all my high beam lights came on when they should (quad lights) rather than having the high beam only lights come on with the low beam at the switch. It was heaps cheaper than me buying all the parts and doing it myself. I haven't tried LED headlights even though they're available as an aftermarket item. And I wouldn't touch HIDs with a 90 foot barge pole. Such a spoob light source that everybody raves about :/ Cheers Bennie