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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    108.0 fm is the highest my head unit goes to knucklehead. Triple J Melbs is the last station at 107.5 that I can remember. I think there used to be an old pirate radio on 107.9 but I never listened to it... Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Also be looking at the other side of the car for these issues. This side that's run in hot could be doing more work than the otherside - but that's usually noticeable from pulling one way or the other under braking loads. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    The caliper slides will not be smooth in operation, as in one side or both are stuck/have excessive friction. These can be removed, cleaned up then have some high temp grease applied to them. I'm not sure the exact grease to use, hopefully someone will be able to share that info. You may see your brake pads wearing oddly in a different angle other than parallel to the metal brake the pad is mounted to. I need to check this same issue out on my brumby :/ but it's not getting THAT hot. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    That's funny about those frequencies you're able to access Subasaurus, we have the same sort of thing on those frequencies too! Knucklehead, I've always used the side, it's more uniform in thickness and can cover a larger area. Only thing is it's a cover, it can't hold weight. Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    Head to exhaust I use high temp silicone. Works a treat until you knock your exhaust on a rock when offroading. Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    I don't know if I mentioned this before - I've used the side of an old oil bottle for fascia panels. It's a nice black with a "neat pattern" through it depending on where you cut the oil container. And the plastic is easy to work with which is a bonus. Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    Yeah mate she's beaut! Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Nice. Glad to hear you got a whole exhaust setup as I would pin the issue on the catalitic converter letting go. As for extra fuel usage who knows what's up with that unless the O2 sensor is no longer getting the same heat to keep it inside its optimal operational temp range, which could mean you're running in a fuel enriched loop/limp mode. Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    Sounds good mate. Keep a posted on the updates! Smash it with pics too Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    As the Lucky Texan has mentioned - check your cam belt tensioner. Remove the cam cover on the lhs and see if the tensioner bounces. If not then the stethoscope onto it to listen for the knocking sound. I'd be particularly suss if you replaced the tensioner with a non genuine item. We had one making noise after 10k km. Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    Winning! Extending the bash plate outwards and blocking all the holes will also help with drawing air through the radiator too. Something I'm still aiming to do - and have "proof" that it works after our trans continent trip in 2016 during the peak of our summer. Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    I've never touched one of those little or age seal things in the back of the crank on an ea81. I've always been told to leave them. Are you sure the rear seal was put in correctly? I've never heard of a sump gasket saturating the clutch in oil. And I've usually found the oil pump is the culprit as the reason for an oil saturated sump gasket. Not saying that the sump gasket will never leak, just that it's worth investigating the oil pump thoroughly. Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    Battery any good? I had a flat battery recently in one of our cars and it did some seriously weird stuff. The battery being flat was a result of a dead alternator... Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    OP, you sure that noise wasn't there before you did work on your car? I used to hear many "new" noises on my car after working on it, particularly after an engine install or internal works on the engine or gearbox. It could be that you've never noticed this tick on start up before, but since replacing the cam belt you're more critical of noices heard since the work was done. It may have always been there... My EJ gets a lifter tick every now and then - idling when cold, when oil level is low, sometimes when hot... It always goes away and is of no concern to me. But it is a good indicator that my oil level could be low Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    Story doesn't check out in my book - "pulled from a friend's rusty legacy" at the start of the description, then at the end they say something along the lines of "never installed (into what??), this cost me a lot of money to get it all together"... Last comment designed to bump the price? Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    The 2L turbo setup of other manufacturers are most likely to fit in with wrc class reason. Best of luck with the rebuild! Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    Hey jkinz, I'm pretty right for parts atm other than that funky folksy bowl O ring! If I ever need anything I'll keep you in mind Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    Sweet looking brumby Knucklehead! Have you thought about making the aerial cable pass through the sports bar to eliminate the cable ties? Two holes, two grommets... And how did you mount the UHF in the vehicle? Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Is there any State side member willing to help me out with acquiring a couple of those toilet bowl O rings and shipping them to Oz? My O ring gasket has expanded and I doubt I'll manage to get it refitted without pinching it or it leaking. I don't know what they were thinking when they made all these funky O rings on the EA82... Me Fuji must've learnt as I've not seen any like these on the EJs, just your traditional style O ring. If you can help out pls PM me. Regards Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    If you're going with the harness and ECU online, ensure it comes with the engine intake manifold harness too - unless you're certain it's the same loom as what's on your ej22. Over here we got two and three plug intake manifold looms for the same Gen engines - generally in Gen1s, the difference being the series 1 and 2 setups (my experience anyway, I've not had much to do with Gen2s). Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    It's called lichen. An interesting symbiotic relationship between coral and algae. Comes in many forms and structures but we know little about them other than they're an indicator of little to no disturbance. Cool stuff and can be found all over the Australian bush and in some places in the deserts too Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    If timing gear is covered in melted cam belt rubber ensure it's all removed before fitting the new belts Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    Are you sure the coolant isn't running down from somewhere higher up on the engine such as the heater crossover pipes? Coolant may be running then hanging on the bottom of that gudgeon pin plug where it is either seen or leaves a distinctive mark. Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    I wouldn't call that oil seepage. Looks more to me like general engine dirtiness. As for oil consumption - what is too much? These engines were notorious for leaking oil an/or coolant externally through the head gasket. I would be looking for leaks on the engine if it's only losing a little bit of oil between changes. If you're having to top it up from the low mark several times between oil changes then there's most likely a bigger issue at play. I would start with replacing the PCV and see if there is any change in oil consumption. Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    Get the proper fusible links as soon as you can. Running regular wire could cause a fire. If nothing works after that bridging effort, I'd be checking plugs above the drivers feet - starting with the ignition barrel's connection. Cheers Bennie
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