el_freddo

Thanks guys. No new trip reports unfortunately Last trip out was for my brother's bucks party where I killed one of my off-road tyres - I can't get them anymore so now I'm on my roadies just clocking up k's to and from work. I'm now up to 515k km. I'd love to hit the 600 in her! We'll see. Next thing on her agenda is a 5 stud swap with new rims and tyres. I need to do some research before I go any further on this. And I have another two projects on the go... Thanks again for the comments! Cheers Bennie

My L does the same thing from time to time - it seems to come and go. My theory on this is that with our front hand brake via the caliper, heat is maintained on that part of the disc for a lot longer compared to the other part of the disc. If driving hard, or just slowed from a high speed and the hand brake is applied shortly after, there's going to be a lot of heat held in the caliper. This then warps the disc slightly as different parts of it cool at different rates. I find that applying the brakes firmly a couple of times gets rid of the issue. I have not had this issue for some time now and I haven't replaced or changed anything up front. Cheers Bennie

Last batch? Awww... I guess in Oz there's not so much of a demand for these parts anymore - which is an issue since I've got a few things I need to offload... Cheers Bennie

If your air suspension starts to sag in one corner replace the bag ASAP if you want to keep it (pretty unique - over here many were converted to springs). I say this due to people continuing to drive with the bag releasing air - this then works the compressor more often, usually resulting in it dying. This is the point where many convert to springs. Keep the bags leak free and the system should serve you well for a long time! I'm keen to see what the air suspension is like in the Liberty/Legacys... Cheers Bennie

This is what I did a few years ago and have not had an issue since. Not the prettiest fix but it works a treat Cheers Bennie

Easier still would be removing the whole rear assembly, K frame and swing arms together, then bolt this in. These subarus are simple in their rear suspension design. There's nothing complicated in it and would be heap easier to install than just an arm on its own. You'll also be replacing ALL components that could possibly be bent Cheers Bennie

Haha... This thread is gold. In Oz our brat/brumby has 3.7 ratio diff's as standard, all open. I've done it once. It's easiest to do with the diff centre out of the housing and this also avoids splatter ending up in the bearings or gears. The hardest part after removing the drive shafts off the diff stubs is getting the torx bolts out of the inside of the diff stubs. These bolts hold the stub axle in place. Once these are off/out you can remove the backing plate and the bearing retainer plates, ensuring you keep the shims on the correct side of the diff. The diff centre will come out easy after this. Clean it up, removing as much diff oil as possible. Then weld the spider gears together, weld the spider gears to the diff centre housing and you can add a few bolts in there to weld everything to as well. Weld both side of the housing where you can access the gears. If you don't remove the bearings be careful of heat build up as that could damage the bearings. Reassemble and fit back into the brumby. If you're ever going to run on the black top the stubs can be shaved to help removal of a shaft Then it's point and shoot fun, at least it was for me in my L. Cheers Bennie

Mate, you go to a fair effort to rid your rig of rust! When will this actually be completed?? And what size tyre are you running? I'm now in the market for a new set of offroad tyres. But I've got to work a few other things out first - ej brakes and rims with a better offset or not. Keep up the good work. Cheers Bennie

300k miles. That's a fair effort! Cheers Bennie

I've never heard of this as a result of towing at speed. Too much heat is what kills cylinder heads. Cheers Bennie

In Oz the screw on dizzy caps and rotors are only with the MPFI fuel injected EA82 engines. All other EA82s got the push on rotor button and clip on caps. Other differences in parts - clutch cable maybe shorter for the US market and I believe the throttle cable won't fit our subarus over here. There are differences between MY and L series seatbelts and buckles. They will fit but won't be the same as the other belts. And ensure you get the belt AND the buckle to ensure they'll work together Cheers Bennie

MPFI non turbo. If it was turbo a good hint would be a "scalloped" section in the engine crossmember under the RHS head. This is for the up pipe to the turbo. They would've had to have changed the exhaust from the turbo setup too. It may never have been a turbo unit - the old fella might've had it as a turbo conversion project... Either way it'll have a "factory" oil leak between the head and the cam box, usually about 5 mins after you've resealed it! The push button 4wd with the auto engages a set of clutch packs to engage the rear end. If these are flogged out you'll only get drive to the front wheels. It'll be obvious whether it's working or not. The MPFI system is pretty good for power and efficiency once you've got it going. If there's rust on the bores either rebuild it or find a replacement engine - even a good carb block will do the job with the MPFI heads fitted. The only difference in the block is a crank case breather near the bellhousing on the RHS of the block. Everything else will bolt up once the MPFI heads are fitted (direct bolt on too). It should be a good little runner once you've got it sorted Cheers Bennie

Head gasket for sure. Also look for rust in the bottom corners of the windscreen as they can typically rust here. Another place to check is behind the spare wheel. They're good little runners when you look after them - even then they don't need much attention in the long run Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum from a fellow Aussie mate Search some more and you'll find more subarus forums too. There are a couple of Aussie based ones (but we're all just as knowledgeable and friendly). Cheers Bennie

What was the condition of the hatch in the yard like? It's got me wondering if they'd help out an Aussie hatch owner that needs a rear cut (mate of mine). Sounds like you got a good score on the radiator! Cheers Bennie

Tried some silicone on the rubber? Cheers Bennie

Nice mate. I bet you turn some heads with those stickers! Do you offroad/rally or just daily it? Cheers Bennie

With a heated garage (we ALL know you have them! ) it'd be a good time to strip the engine down and do a thorough rebuild before the next spring comes around ;) A hone, rings, pistons should do the job. At worst you could need a rebore, which would still need rings and pistons (oversized!). While you're there a new set of bearings would be the go. Then the last bit would be dropping a mild cam in there Cheers Bennie

So what did you end up finding? Sorted now?? Cheers Bennie

Sounds good mate! I love our brumbys. Got any pics to share? Cheers Bennie

What's with the wheels sticking out of the guards? I'd get done like a dinner over here with the cops if I had my wheels even half an inch out of the guard if they were looking. Your setups above would be asking for trouble over here! Keep the build thread alive! Cheers Bennie

Nice one mate! Your US Gen1 wagons "look weird" with the flat roof. We ONLY got the raised (or what I've heard called "postal wagon") roof in Oz. Any other mods planned? Have you played around with the other globes to try and get rid of the hot spots the LEDs have created? I'm about to replace my globes in the cluster Cheers Bennie

Bummer. I've just stumbled across a pic of the piston we pulled from the engine I was talking about (sheer coincidence!). No unusual noises, no loss of performance (then again, it was an EA82 so...): I seriously hope it's not this. But it'd be a good time to drop in a mild cam while you've got the block split Cheers Bennie

Inlet manifold gaskets? That'd be what I'd check first. If nothing is obvious there then start thinking HG. Cheers Bennie

Compression test will tell you if the compression rings are good. If you oil rings or landings are shot it could allow oil to be sucked unit the compression chamber when you coast or decelerate, when you go back onto the throttle it starts to burn the oil build up with the fuel mixture. The longer you coast or decelerate for, the more smoke once accelerating again. Engine will use oil but run fine otherwise. I had this occur on an engine in the L series, we only just pulled it down a few years ago to find at least one cylinder with broken oil rings. My other thoughts would be valve stem seals but since you've done all of them they can be ruled out... Cheers Bennie