el_freddo

The way I'm about to do this is use the L series gear selector and weld up the 4wd lever to keep the Brumby's factory 4wd lever. Now wishing I got a factory 5 speed gear knob - I didn't think about that all those years ago when glf5 coupes were in the parts yards... We've got the same list of mods in one of our Brumbys, the second one is the up and coming, basically headed in the same direction Some things you're "missing" on your list are intermittent wipers and the 6 gauge cluster/long dash and aftermarket additions of cruise control (best mod ever if you drive a lot!) and (on day to be remote) central locking Cheers Bennie

I just remember it this way: square plug = better than round plug Cheers Bennie

Don't get me started on the "added safety" technology that actually reduces the drivers need to know how to actually monitor what's going on around them as they "drive"... Then there's the canbus system where one thing in the car goes a bit funny in operation and the whole car has a hissy fit. HGs will be a thing of the past - because cars will be disposed of before they can blow a head gasket :/ Cheers Bennie

What ever the machinist takes off the top they need to do the same on the plate surface. If off-roading it's not good to lighten the flywheel. If performance go for it Cheers Bennie

Good used one fixed the issue because I replaced the coil with a new stupidcheap one. The unknown module was then fitted and everything worked. Theory is the dead coil killed the new module. Not a dead new module. But I'll be talking with my parts guy to see what can be done - worth a try and I've been buying from these guys since I was 15! Should've asked for stocks in the store back then Cheers Bennie

The voltage comes from the wire from the igntion barrel when in the start position only. The solenoid does not give voltage. You need to test the wire from the ignition. But if you've already got it cranking this test is redundant. You now need to look at spark - coil, dizzy module if it's got one (being an '85 it won't have the optical gear in it). Check the coil and replace if needed before going and replacing the module Cheers Bennie

Ok new information from my end. Last week my brumby stopped dead in its tracks. Turned out the module in the dizzy died - because the coil let go. So I killed a good module in the process of working out that the coil was bad. I also ran a jumper wire in the plug for the rev sensor unit that triggers the fuel pump. I guessed which wires ran the pump, for mine it was the two thickest wires, both black wires, one with a white trace. This made my fuel pump run whenever ignition was on. Before I got my brumby running again I reversed this mod as it confirmed that the fuel pump was good. New coil then new module (2nd hand one now that I killed the new one ), fired up first kick and hasn't looked back Cheers Bennie

Awesome work mate. Hats off to your thorough and patient approach, I think it's all paying off for you and the BRAT. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing the finished product Cheers Bennie

On the horn relay: Cheers Bennie

That's a good explanation of how this eventuates - so it's not really the design of the EJ25D as such - just how they were miss diagnosed time and time again really. Still, I haven't heard the same over here on such a frequent number of vehicles but that could be the difference in the markets and how Subaru America and Subaru Australia dealt with the issue. If you're really worried about temps and potential HG issues, jump on fleabay and look up engine watch dog - these use metal temps rather than coolant that once lost, won't give you an accurate temp reading. You can also set an alarm for a particular temp setting above what is normal to alert you to something abnormal going on. I'm yet to put one on my cars but it's on the to do list of 2018! There are other, cheaper versions of this around too. Cheers Bennie

You're talking about different systems in an "all in one" way: EA81/EA82 dual range 4wd: Dual range between engine and gearbox, not at the back of the gearbox like a "traditional"4wd. Permanent front wheel drive with the rear wheels engaged via a mechanical lock. Front and rear axles locked together when in 4wd. EA82 single range "push button" 4wd: Same setup as the dual range 4wd minus the dual range part. Locking device is basically the same but the operation is different. Locking operation is done via a vacuum diaphragm that pulls/pushes on the lever to lock/unlock the rear end. EA82t AWD dual and single range: Uses an open centre diff for AWD onroad. Push a button/flick a switch and the same vacuum diaphragm as the push button 4wd actuates a dog clutch on the centre diff to lock it. This locks the front and rear axles together like the above two boxes. EJ AWD (dual and single range - we got dual range!): centre diff with a ~5kg rated LSD built into it. This LSD limits the front or rear axle spinning independently of the other. Some later models got the DCCD setup which is controlled by a module for best traction possible in a variety of situations, it can be manually over ridden too. This device is being used by many over here for offroading to effectively lock the front and rear axles together as required when offroading. We're yet to see when/if the coil in the DCCD burns out. EA/EJ auto AWD/4wd. Effectively the same gearbox setup. Permanent 2wd to the front with engagement of the rear through a set of electronically controlled clutch packs. EA's had a switch to lock in "4wd" where as the EJ's had "AWD" via the TCU monitoring wheel spin/need for power to the rear axle. This is where the switch mod that's been discussed can come in handy for those that offroad or are in very slippery conditions such as your snow driving. The clutch packs can wear out over time too which is another issue with this setup. idosubaru's explanation of the 4wd systems and their "drive wheels" is also a good way to explain it. Differential setup is very important in slippery conditions and each driver might use something different according to their driving style. My EJ22'd L series runs a modified EA82t AWD box with 4.11 ratio diffs. I have a front LSD and an open diff in the rear. I'm waiting for a locker if it ever eventuates but I've also found that in 99% of my offroading I don't need the rear end locked as when climbing all the weight is on the rear end providing the best traction - until I lift a wheel. So I drive trying to keep my rear end on the ground when offroading. The Front LSD has been an awesome addition over an open diff but not as good as a manual locker would be! Cheers Bennie PS: my snow tyres are now about 7 years old and don't see snow work any more. They've hardened up well and aren't melting in the summer heat like my first set did back in the day. They're wearing pretty quickly now compared to a regular road tyre, but I'm not fussed about this as I won't be in the snow over here like I was for two years. They were on an L series in the snow, now they're on my brumby. They're Toyo Winter iPike's IIRC and to me were a good tyre in the snow

As for your spark. Replace the coil. And the dizzy module. Last night my brumby stopped dead in it's tracks and wouldn't start up again. Though it was the module so replaced that with a new one. Still no spark. Did some testing and the coil had very weak spark if lucky to get one. Replace coil with a new one. Still no go. Finally it had to be the module, swapped it out for one I remember I had on another engine. Fired up first go and did a 120km trip loaded without a single miss or stumble. Try the coil first then the module. It seems like the failing/weak coil took out the dizzy's module with it - twice for me :/ Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... That list of issues suck and must be a US market issue. In Oz I know head gaskets and rings/pistons were changed under warranty but have not heard of them throwing rods through blocks over here. Odd. Jeryst, do some searching on the forum. As previously mentioned there are many people/members that have effectively worked with/around the issue. Look after your vehicle, get to know it well and watch out for the signs of an issue or anything abnormal. Cheers Bennie

Incorrect. That would be the EA82, period! Many ways to look after or deal with this potential problem - one could be insuring you're not doing repeated small runs where the engine doesn't spend a lot of time at operating temp. Not flogging the engine could be another way to reduce the occurrence of a dud hg. There are many and also different options for repair or replacement... Cheers Bennie

Agreed. Poor wheel alignment will also do it, or a heavy foot and someone with no idea of how to control a 4wd slid/power slide... Cheers Bennie

^ That's awesome! I've not heard of an insurance company doing that over here... Cheers Bennie

Google image is your friend Jono...

Wow! Awesome journey mate and I love the detailing on the engine and box. Kudos! Cheers Bennie

That's because they're new lifters IIRC. EA82s are notorious for being noisy with their tap pets for a number of reasons. Their general design has me wanting to put an EA81 into an L series over keeping the EA82 if I keep a 1.8 in there. Interesting. Never knew of SPFI on the EJs but anything is possible. Over here the EJ18 was/is MPFI but lacks a cam angle sensor compared to the EJ22 MPFI system. Cheers Bennie

If it's an 80's brat you won't need to notch the chassis/frame rails. Only the fugly series brat needs this (the 70's style brat with round headlights - quad from memory). Cheers Bennie

Ok so hook it into the MY harness, it doesn't matter what it's going into you need to have the EJ harness meet the converted vehicles harness at some point! Just go the efi and see what it's like, then judge it. Cheers Bennie

That may be true but our design laws can be very different to NZ. Subaru Australia calls the shots as to what is offered and what is not. Eg: we didn't get the L series RXII coupe, or any L series coupe for that matter NZ did. NZ also hasn't had a local car manufacturing industry for a very long time and have relied on imports. I believe this includes second hand imports. They have MANY exotic JDM delivered goodies that we never got from factory over here. And whe they're close to us it's very costly to import vehicles in to Oz personally. Laws make it hard and it seems everyone on the docks/wharfs has a hand in your wallet if a vehicle is imported. Forget the carb'd EJ factory unit. I'd be going for the RXII coupe if could ever import something. Cheers Bennie

True. There's correct tappet adjustment tapping and the tapping noise of tappers that are out of spec. If the impact surfaces are worn you'll never get them sorted with feeler gauges as directed in any good service manual - it comes down to trial and error by feeling for the gap. Anyone pulling the heads off: get the contact surface of the rocker arm checked to ensure they're smooth/flat across the curve of the contact face. If there's a groove in there get rid of it! Cheers Bennie

Another thing it could be is the oil filler pipe lid rattling. Newer cat doesn't mean it hasn't died. I don't know the age of the cat or how your weather treats exhaust systems over there but over here a new cat should see out the life of the vehicle in general. Cheers Bennie

If it hasn't been removed, there's a little tap device near the alternator that manipulates the flow through the intake heating circuit. Both have been removed from ours as they were super brittle when the hoses were replaced. I didn't think to replace them with a new tap and run it as ON in winter and OFF in the summer months. This could be worth looking into. Also plumbing the smaller hose from the water pump through the auto fluid warming circuit wouldn't do much other than cool your heater circuit fluid. I don't think it would achieve much in the end. Cheers Bennie