el_freddo

Hmmm interesting approach... The ignition system is electronic, unless your dizzy is an acient unit with the old points system. If you mean EFI that's a different kettle of fish - and work well when the harness is cut down properly. THE best bang for your buck with the EA81 is the EA82 SPFI imo. This will metre the fuel to be the best ratio at all times. The weber gives good performance but you can forget about economy from what I've heard about this conversion. If you're looking at an EJ engine these are tops. Best bang for buck IMO. I did it to my L series many years ago and it's the best thing I did to it at the time. Don't be put off by electronics or cam belts! Do the electronics right the first time (with careful research and attention to detail) and you'll be right. As for the cambelt, replace at the given intervals with quality equipment and again you'll be set. The EJ22 is a bit of an allrounder. Low torque and high rpm power. They'll happily rev high all day everyday. They're the ea81 of the EJ series engines An EJ with the L series 5 speed and adaptor plate is a good setup for the MY or L's. You will easily spin front wheels, even with the extra weight of the EJ. It doesn't effect the front suspension that much that you need to do anything to it. Just make sure the suspension bushes are in good condition as you usually would. The other best thing to do with an EA81 is a rebuild with a mild cam, especially if running the weber carb. There are loads of conversions to read up on. I reckon you've got a lot more reading to do before you settle on your final setup. Also the dual carbs will bolt on with their inlet manifold to the ea81, just that you won't get the full benefit of the EA81S block, heads and cam package. They're a very different setup to a "regular" EA81. Cheers Bennie

As for rims, once you know what you need to do brake wise, these are great factory stud pattern aftermarket rims at a good price IMO: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-STEEL-RIMS-SUNRAYSIA-STYLE-BRISBANE-SUBARU-BRUMBY-14X6-4X140-BLACK-/182089884123?hash=item2a656721db:g:580AAOSwgQ9VzS7i ^ Black. White: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-STEEL-RIMS-SUNRAYSIA-STYLE-BRISBANE-SUBARU-BRUMBY-14X6-4X140-WHITE-/281974059729?hash=item41a6f6b2d1:g:GxAAAOSw~gRVzS4a Cheers Bennie

As per my other post, The EJs in Australia did not come out in carb setup from the factory, only EFI. But they can be adapted with some work. Look up Phinzinza's work with his current brumby (offroadingsubarus.com) Or Toonga's work on his old brumby PJ (ausubaru.com). As for relevant laws etc, best to read the current VSI from your state. It should be relatively easy to find on the QLD road transport authority page (whatever they're called up there, we have Vicroads in Victoria). Or find a certified engineer and talk to them about your plans as they will talk with you about braking requirements etc if any. All the best with it, the EJ22 is an awesome upgrade over the EAs - although I don't mind the EA81 with its bulletproof toughness compared to the "flimsy" EA82... Cheers Bennie

You can mess with the three bolts on the trailing arm to change the camber of the rear hubs. They're the ones on the outer arm that bolts to the swing arm. I can't remember which way it goes (up or down, I think it's up from memory), but it will take a couple of goes to get it where you want it. I hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, I highly doubt you'll find a carb'd EJ22 from the factory over here. If you do find a carb'd unit it'll be a DIY setup. All Australian delivered EJs are EFI. If you can read a wiring diagram they're not that hard to fit to an MY or L series - just do your research. I did my own on Ruby Scoo. Gearbox: You could fit the AWD box from the EJ series, but your gearing will be out due to the change in tyre diametre between the models. One way around this is to fit an L series gearbox with adaptor plate, or you gut an EJ AWD box, keep the front half cases and fit the internals of the L series gearbox to the EJ front cases. This gets around the need for an adaptor plate and modified flywheel so you can run all factory EJ equipment. Works a treat. Don't forget to check out ausubaru for more "local" rides and conversions Cheers Bennie

Mate! Been a while and your still going on those rear sill/guard panels!! Your patience is a force to be reckoned with!! Since last posting about the weather I've drive across Oz, broke the gearbox (poorly modified custom pinion shaft), rebuilt it with some really good mates and drove it home again! Also, a mate shared a pic with me of a vehicle that looks a lot like your Loyale: ^ yours? I'll need to show you how to mod the snorkel so it sits flush on the A pillar The reason why this pic caught my attention was a) it looks a lot like your Loyale and if it is your Loyale I didn't know you had the bonnet scoop and rear facing wrx style vents - when did these happen? Or is there a copy cat out there? Cheers Bennie

The pass side inner cv boot issue will have something to do with the position if the Y pipe exhaust and the location of the cat converter to the cv boot. Heat will kill them! Make a shield and it should be good. Cheers Bennie

Gearbox is finally back together and I've been driving her for a good 3 weeks now without issues in that department! All those other little issues are now showing up again - those ones you forget about, you know, the shot rear drive shafts, worn suspension bushes etc etc. Now to work through those one by one and still find some time to get her in the shed to dry off and continue painting the underside of her to treat and seal any rust under there. This will allow me to hit up a beach again, something I've been missing! Lastly, i think my choice of 5th ratio was the wrong one, at cruise I'm revving just a bit too high for my liking. For what I want I don't think there is a suitable off the shelf ratio. Ideally I'd like to be sitting on about 2850rpm at 60 (100kmph) miles an hour and a little over 3000rpm at about 68mph (110kmph). Cheers Bennie

Yeah mate I'm a little passionate with weather and reading it. When I used to work in a vineyard I could read it very well and had good to high accuracy with getting it right. This came about due to our studies at uni with reading weather (Environmental Outdoor Ed degree basically). I've made some good progress on my gearbox with the pot belly in the shed, I hope you're getting the same on your L with good weather Cheers Bennie

Also interesting that your state has those by laws and that you only own the house and not the land. That's the same setup as our national capital - the Australian Capital Territory or ACT for short. The land is all government lease with only the buildings in private ownership. As for not being able to do what you want that's bullshit. So glad we don't have that over here, and I find it ironic that over here we're very limited with what we can do with our vehicles for road use but have no restrictions other than noise and if you get really out of hand with wrecks etc inside town town boundaries. Yet you're allowed to do basically any radical thing you want but have these ridiculous restrictions with what you can legally do on your own block. Go figure! I hope you get the better of your neighbour, just be sickly sweet with him ALL the time He probably wants you to sell up/move on... Cheers Bennie

Well over summer our nightly lows can be between 12ish on a really really cold one to usually around 20-23*C and can peak up in the mid to high 40's, but our usual summer daytime temp is 30-38 with a beating sun. Winter has cold snaps for up to a week at a time - that's when you know it's snowing in the alps. These nights will be 0 or below and can be windy, daytime temp would be lucky to reach 12*C. Usually our overnight temps are around 8-12*C with daytime temps up to 20*C on a warm day. Then in terms of moisture content it can be anywhere from really dry (frosty) to really moist/wet. Rain can be light and go for a few days but it's more often than not going to be patchy on/off heavyish rain that could go for 5 minutes up to an hour or two - or it could just be a passing front. In summer we can still get storms with awesome intensity. Love them! And I love the snow too! Can snow down to 500m in the right conditions, has snowed lower almost 100 years ago now! I hope that gives you a good overview It's now about 6pm, sun went down a good hour ago, 12*C and 75% humidity. Pretty chilly! I've managed to paint the underside of Ruby Scoo last night in the shed with the heater on. I haven't really left the house today but did smuggle some parts in to put some of the gearbox back together on the coffee table... Even had the ok from my better (totally awesome) half! Cheers Bennie

Awesome build mate! Got any more details on the turbo SPFI setup? I'm keen to know if it runs well with the second injector setup to keep the engine from running lean. Now I'm wondering if I can do this with my brumby and an SPFI setup... evil, evil thoughts! Cheers Bennie

I know the feeling mate. 7 months I've been working on this bloody gearbox! And now we're in winter it's ridiculous! Cheers Bennie

Got that gearbox in yet? It's good weather over there now isn't it? Your attention to detail with the floor pan mods are amazing mate! Cheers Bennie

Plenty of them here Johnson. Would just need to work out how to get them over there in the most cost effective way... I'm still working on my gearbox I've had to swap everything back into the SG cases as they moved the reverse slider gear's shaft 1.2mm outwards and made the drive and slider gears larger to compensate. I'm now up to the bit of sorting the diff settings and organising my low range oil feeders. Can't wait to have this back on the road! Cheers Bennie

Sex on wheels mate! Love it. I want one Cheers Bennie

Awww... I so want one of these! I totally wouldn't treat it like that either. I'll give you another L series to mess around at the Rally Cross with But I'm not in the US, hence the reason why I'd totally love one of these (but totally can't afford one!). Please look after it! Coming from where I am you don't know what you have! Cheers Bennie

I love this quote!! And top effort on finding that hard to find stuff. But I really don't understand that bumper - looks like a stock one to me, so what's the diff? Cheers Bennie

Awesome pic! So you're now running a stock single core L series radiator with an EJ and no overheating?? That sounds crazy! Glad it's sorted your overheating problem though, and I hope it stays away! Last year I found out I had the blades on my thermo fans the wrong way around, I was pretty pissed at this! They pulled air so much better once the fans were the right way around... Your subi really reminds me of mine back in the day when the paint was still really good on her. Keep it that way on yours Cheers Bennie

Redback and Sunnie the Brumby: Some sweet old school subi's being posted in here! Love it! Cheers Bennie

15mm for the starter's lower mounting nut. I can't remember anything else at 15mm off hand. Also add in a 22mm socket for the crank bolt, 36mm socket for the castleated nut on the drive shafts. These two should be purchased seperatly and not in a kit as you won't need 90% of the kit it come in, plus it's cheaper! A 6mm pin punch is also good for drive shaft swaps I've got a metric Sidchrome set 8mm-19mm spanner and socket in the half inch drive. This does me for 99% of my work on cars. I've got an inch drive breaker bar with the 36mm socket. Other basic tools - pliers (stubby and long nose), flat and Phillips head screw drivers. That should just about do it. Also you do not need to have a big spend up on tools to get you started. Shop around for the kit, mine cost about $200AU new. The other bits have been collected along the way as needed. Some found in wrecks - I love the factory tool kit's Phillips/flat head screw driver! My kit now includes wire cutter, stripper and crimpers as I've moved into adding wiring I want/need as well as the odd engine conversion along the way. Now I'm playing with gearboxes... Thinking about it, if you get into engine or gearbox work you should seriously look at a torque wrench - I keep stealing my dad's, he then borrows one from a mate if he needs one :/ Garage sales are a good place to look for some decent tools if you know what you want. Old brand name kits are worth getting second hand if in good condition as they're made like no other kits today IMO. And you may save some coin in the process. I guess start with the basics - learn how to check the oil, do an oil change, how to change a tyre (you'd be surprised how many people can't do this these days!), check/change spark plugs. Basically the essentials to keep your subi going. If you get a vehicle with a dud engine or blown head gasket, get yourself a Haynes manual at the very least. Do some reading, read between the lines/decipher what's required (as needed at times with this manual!) and go from there. The ea81 is a great engine to learn on as it's so basic! You almost couldn't choose a better engine to learn on Going by my experiences I find vehicles with a good body much better as a long term project/keeper than ones that need panels cut to remove rust/spray work. So I look for vehicles with a shot engine or mechanical work needed that have a good/best body for its age to join my stables. Food for thought There really is nothing to be scared of - on an old vehicle where there's loads of community knowledge you can't go wrong. Just don't go trying to port and polish your heads by holding revs and pouring sand into the intake (viral joke)! Cheers Bennie

Interesting question. There really is two areas to explore here: 1) regular maintenance 2) desired mods Best way to keep costs down is to learn how to do it yourself Setting yourself up with good tools may cost a little initially, but the long term reward once you learn how to use them pays the tools off in no time and then some! Don't skimp on tools, get a decent set from a brand you trust. My preference is Sidchrome, only because that's what I was bought up with - the tool's quality probably isn't the same as it was when dad brought his kit when I was a kid! Happy hunting! Cheers Bennie

I just use high temp silicone. Works a treat - just make sure you clean both surfaces with a grease and wax remover before installing the exhaust with the silicone. You don't need much! Under torque bolts, leave over night if you can then torque bolts properly. If you can't leave it over night idle the engine for a minute to get some heat into the exhaust. Let cool then torque. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate, there's a lot of orange on the front of that coupe now!! I Australia we use a yellow light for foggy conditions - well, those who actually need fog lights, the new vehicles come out with white "fog lights" that are run at night with the other lights. Not cool but no body does anything about them Cheers Bennie

I scored about 300km or more of driving in Redback today. Awesome. The seat mod is great! The PS and cruise made things easy. I didn't find any decent seats at the parts yards, so no pics of that yet I've decided I just want more subi rumble out the back and I'll be a happy fella... Exactly like this: Cheers Bennie