el_freddo

Is the SPFI inlet manifold up for grabs? I wouldn't mind one to complete a mate's SPFI system which is just missing the manifold. And that's a fair effort! An even bigger effort will be to fit that rear tub section onto the wagon! I'll be watching. Cheers Bennie

Avoid the turbo dual range gearboxes if you got them over there as they have the crap 1.19:1 low range rather than the good L series 1.59:1 Everything should bolt straight in without any issues other than the drive shafts (23 spline count required) as mentioned by Gloyale. Cheers Bennie

Injectors clean? SPFI or MPFI? A dirty TPS also caused issues with my EJ22 with start and running issues. Cheers Bennie

Further to Goyale's last extra note is to get an auxiliary temp gauge that actually tells you the temp of the engine rather than just points at a place on a numberless gauge. I put a T piece in my heater circuit where an aftermarket temperature sensor was fitted. Awesomely simple and VERY accurate! Cheers Bennie

Sounds to me like the real issues are struts/shocks all round and some rear drive shafts that are needed. Keeping your old faithful on the road is a thing of passion. I'd know, I had a replacement vehicle ready to go and couldn't do it! I purchased a rotisserie and got to work. Looking back at it now the next body will only be welded in the door jams rather than along every joint in the body between the struts. I've done over 200k km in my old faithful. Only the body and doors are really the original things on it these days! Cheers Bennie

PS: I wouldn't stress about the "extra weight" of the AWD setup. I would go the AWD over the FWD simply for the better handling in all conditions - and you'd be able to throw it into corners harder. It's already a lighter body so you're on a win there! Cheers Bennie

A limited slip diff up front is an awesome upgrade - even in the 4wd/awd mob they under estimate it IMO. As for the setup of the gearbox it's already done. Being a FWD only gearbox you'll probably find the diff stubs are the 23 spline units rather than the 25 spline ones. If not, swap for a 23 spline set while you put the LSD in. What you will have to work out is the gearbox crossmember, shift linkages and how you'll match your speedo drive to the actual speed you're doing unless you're upgrading to to the EJ sized tyres. Regards Bennie

Hill holder is a golden piece of kit on these old rigs. It's only now that the likes of BMW and a few other car makers are adding this "new technology" to their vehicles. Personally, I love my hill holder - even when offroad and you're trying to make your way back down a hill you didn't get up and have to do that dodgy brake on clutch off then quick brake back on manoeuvre. If you're going to disconnect it there should already be a spring there to do the job. I'm looking forward to pics - I'm sure it won't look ANYTHING like mine (or half of those on here!). I do love a good L series though! Cheers Bennie

Love that trike - and Tweety's too. Both have me once again hatching plans in my head to build my own trike. Tweety has had me doing this for some time now - not that I think I'll ever act upon them due to the cost of engineering over here! Still, that's one very neat "minimalist" trike you've got there Longboarder! Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, The broken wire will be from one of the switches on the gearbox. A pic will help identify which one it is. As for the 4wd, is this gearbox a single range gearbox? If so there's probably something wrong with the vacuum 4wd engaging system. You can manually pull it out of 4wd by jacking one wheel off the ground (to release any binding), get under the passenger's side and find the lever on the side of the gearbox near the rear of the box. Move this in the other direction to what it is and you should be back in 2wd. Cheers Bennie

I've solved several clock issues simply by resoldering the "dry" joint. Just pull the clock apart and go from there, what needs to be done should be obvious! Cheers Bennie

Got a link to this parts site? I need some rear housing seals, and since I don't have a factory Australian delivered VIN with this gearbox I'm finding it near impossible to get the bits I need for my build. You need an NA PT4wd gearbox from the L series. MPFI will have the 25 spline diff output stubs and the carb'd units will have the smaller 23 splined output stubs. If you're really serious about a lower final drive you can have the pinion shaft cut and shut. Not ideal but it's a solution to the 3.9/3.7:1 ratios that are currently on offer. I've gone 4.111:1 with 27 inch diameter tyres and love it. I'd love to go to 4.44:1 but it's a cost thing Cheers Bennie

I've had this thought before - but that's about as far as it got. A Datsun 720 transfer case with the low range blanked out with a set of short nose nissan/datsun diffs in the rear there would make it all work in my imagination - you'd need a 3 or 4 inch lift minimum! I'm sure someone can do a better photoshop of the concept with larger wheels as well! Cheers Bennie

I've just noticed that in your spare wheel well that seam at the back is not sealed with factory sealer - DO NOT use sealer here! My L series has not got any and has no rust in this area. Several other wrecks I've seen (and have as parts) have this section sealed and painted from the factory, all have rust in there! Not a nice place to work on! The EJ22 is a great conversion to do! If you spend the time getting your head around the wiring you can bench test your engine and wiring before installing in the vehicle - that's what I did with mine. My L series also runs this gearbox but the dual range version that's been "tricked up" a little bit for offroading. I've just stuffed 2nd gear so I'm in the process of replacing the gearsets with something newer. It's just taking time. You can read about that thread here if you wish. If you want to see more of my ride just google Ruby Scoo Ausubaru or Youtube it So like all good projects, what's the start date that will be missed? Regards Bennie

Lucky bugger! I SO BADLY want one of these... and you guys say we got all the good stuff over here, well we sure missed out on this beauty! If you're going for all out performance go with an EJ box - these locking centre diff gearboxes are very precious Subaru material! Technically the centre diff is inferior to its later model counterparts. It's not hard to spin a front wheel when accelerating through a tight corner even when dry due to the diff being open... Personally I love my AWD L series box, but I've also got easy access to gearsets from dual range EJ gearboxes that I'm currently exercising I'm looking forward to seeing this restored to its former glory, EJ or not. Cheers Bennie

Nice work mate! The Safari wagon is certainly growing up! Did the snorkel attract some attention at the Subi meet - it certainly stands out! Best CAI you can get I reckon! So are you going with 29s or 31s? That's pretty bloody big for a subi! And I can only imagine your fuel "economy". That wheel arch replacement panel is insane - i didn't know you could get that stuff still! If I had a welder I could make Ruby Scoo into a new beast "straight off the showroom floor"! How's your body going for fatigue? I found that with the offroading I was doing you could hear the interior panel's mounting points creaking as you got pressure on each diagonal wheels. Since the body stitch welding I've eliminated that completely. Next build I'll be trying out doing this only with the window seams and the door jam seams where it can be hidden from our authorities - we're seriously restricted with what we're actually allowed to do over here Ruby Scoo is illegitimate as it is Cheers Bennie

Don't forget a new thermostat! The build looks good! These things take time! Cheers Bennie

Don't sell the wheels - roll the guards so you don't need to run with flares That would look totally awesome! Looks good mate! I still can't get over the amount of work you guys put into rust repairs, I really take my hat off to you all who do it! Over here a vehicle like that would be scrapped, which is why you don't see many these days Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

I'll also add that the above kit is for an "auto" - but a second brake switch on the clutch pedal is an easy conversion to make it a "manual" kit rather than buying their kit. Cheers Bennie

I've used this kit twice now with great results: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cruise-Control-Ap60-Diy-Vacuum-Actuator-Automatic-Universal-Fit-/251487481199?pt=Caravan_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8dd26d6f&_uhb=1 The first application was with my EJ22 converted L series. I've used the supplied magnets on the tail (prop) shaft for the Vehicle Speed Sensor pick up, works well. The other application was on my mother inlaw's Brumby. I'll be looking at adding it to my Brumby once it's on the road. Cheers Bennie

Geez Tom, that rear end is about to hit the stratosphere! What's the lift combo there? You've got some crazy angles on the rear drive shafts... Your L is looking great, I'd love to get the paint on Ruby Scoo shining like that, but I know I'd only scratch it again... Cheers Bennie

Looks like an EJ radiator to me. Neat looking unit. Pity it's an auto... Should be a great runner once fixed up properly. A few rust spots I didn't see earlier too Cheers Bennie

Sorry mate, you didn't specify 2wd or 4wd so I covered both. Not that it's relevant now but the 2wd clutch is different to the 4wd clutch in size of the disc and the gearbox input shaft. I also couldn't tell you if it's the same between dual range 4wd or single range 4wd. From other's responses it seems that it is the same. On top of the diff out put stub spline differences the turbo box also has the "dodgy" low range - 1.19:1 rather than the good L series low range of 1.59:1. Cheers Bennie

Lumber Jack Jeff - Why bother? The 4 speed would be a lot of work for what's really a backwards step IMO. Subarocket - I'd say that paying a shop will cost more than you'd think - especially if it's some sort of conversion, in which case this could come under that classification. Basically what I'm getting at is that if you're paying someone to do the work and they don't understand something it will take longer to sort it out. If it were a subaru specialist that knows their stuff about the older models I'd probably say go for it. Otherwise, if you pulled all the gear from the donor I'm sure you could put it in yours over a weekend. If you have a motor bike jack you can use this to remove the gearbox, my brother used one on his 10t truck with a modified frame - worked a treat! Tman1058 - I know it's been a while, but I wouldn't mind a push button 4wd setup for my ride - they're rare as hen's teeth in Oz! Cheers Bennie

Unless it's a 2wd it's pretty straight forward. If it's a 2wd you need all the rear end gear and make some mounts for the moustache bar Personally I'd also grab the flywheel and clutch setup from the donor vehicle just to be sure you've got everything you need - and avoid that disappointment when you've got it all together only to find that the clutch system doesn't work... Cheers Bennie