el_freddo

^^ And that's how you'd want them to look! Cheers Bennie

My L series wagon has the same issue - but in the heat! It's the instrument cluster for some reason... The brumby with the factory 6 gauge instrument cluster doesn't have this issue... Cheers Bennie

Phiz have you looked into the stock carb from the ford 6 cylinders? They look like they'd fit well, they're dime a dozen. Apart from that I don't really know much more on them (as you know I'm pro EFI - but understand what you're trying to achieve!). It'll be great once you get it up and running - then the real fun beings! Cheers Bennie

I would say that the best EA81 blower set up would be with EFI - either a set of turbo heads running the turbo wiring or even the EA82 MPFI wiring. Or go with the SPFI setup. You would need to watch the richness of the mixture in the exhaust gases for a while to make sure it wasn't leaning out when on boost. Tweety (on here and ausubaru.com) did a draw through setup with a side draft weber I think they were - datsun units I believe. A draw through unit will eventually eat the teflon coating from the supercharger fins/blades/whatever you want to call them - some say this is not an issue, but who knows... Tweety did have issues with his fuel economy - too high for his liking plus the block started having blow by issues as you could imagine. Shoving a blower on a well used engine that's been built for NA will show up all sorts of blow by issues. Ultimately you need to build up an engine specifically for boost. I'm pretty sure he loved the power the supercharger provided though. Now he's managed to source a SPFI unit in Oz and is running that - after a lot of fine tuning and troubleshooting he's finally seeing the smooth running and simple start that he's been chasing. There was one in QLD that I've seen on facebook as well - I think that one's been parted out, but it showed a good setup that fitted under the bonnet... Cheers Bennie

If you've managed to bend both rear wheels to a new angle you've "done things well". Just not the type of well that you're after! Depending on what you find it could be time for a new rear subframe. But you could've just bent both rear swing arms - still a huge effort to do that! Cheers Bennie

If you're going to destroy a gearbox like this, send it my way and I'll sort you out with a PT4wd gearbox. The part time gearbox would be stronger for this application, but as with all subaru gearboxes, the rear output shaft gears are the weak link in running RWD. That gearbox you've got is not something to weld up like that! Save a good gearbox and get a run of the mill PT4wd box Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, To hook up the fans to make them ECU controlled you need to use plug F47, wire 17. This is an earth switched wire, same as the stock EA radiator thermo switch. You can wire it straight into that factory wiring if you've got your fans hooked into that, just make sure it's NOT on the earth wire side of the radiator switch With the ECU controlling the thermo fans they should switch on and off as needed. If they're on all the time you need a new temp sensor - the brown plug, two wire unit on the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold - it's a PITA to get to! I'm still working on my radiator situation too. Your setup looks neat - I personally wouldn't worry about it, after having seen the pics I think it's neat and effective. If you don't want 5 lug anymore "feel free" to ship the rear end setup to me!! Cheers Bennie

I wouldn't say this thread is old... I'm yet to get the stock EA81 going - then I'll mess around with the MPFI setup. Does anyone know if the crank pulley on the EA81T is a direct swap with an EA82 unit? I'm thinking it's not as the EA81 crank pulley from memory also runs on the oil seal... I'm keen to get my hands onto one of these and the bracket set for the EA82 AC/alternator setup - or does the stock EA82 unit bolt straight on? More questions! Cheers Bennie

All good, we've got the message. While this is not an autocad file it's certainly one way of producing your own adaptor plate. Cheers Bennie

Top effort mate - especially having a little man child to deal with too! Hope you get many years of happy trouble free motoring from this conversion! Regards Bennie

Sorry I forget that you don't have the same sort of constraints that we do over here with chassis rail modifications! For example, to drop an EJ20G into a Brat you need an engineer's report for the chassis modifications (some are hesitant to sign off) - but you also need one for the engine anyway. Same goes for any EJ in and MY or L series... Cheers Bennie

I made a set of shims from two shims used in the steering column of old holdens - these still needed to be ground down a fair bit. If you had some flat bar steel 4 or 5mm thick you could grind yourself a set - just takes time. Be sure to drill the hole first, otherwise drilling on an angle after grinding will be fun... I've never had an issue with engine mounts, but I've always run these shims too. I'm currently running the EA82 engine mounts in the front hole of the EJ engine mount plate and have sleeved the gearbox crossmember holes for the gearbox mounts. This effectively pushes my drive train back about 15-20mm; so far that I've found the back of the sump rubs on the engine crossmember (now that I've got the engine out) - no noise there though. I've heard to avoid the round engine mounts like the plague for an EJ into an L series/MY as they don't last long. Cheers Bennie

Yes they do. The EA81s between the US and Australia are pretty much the same thing - emissions could be slightly different but the main bulk of parts are interchangeable. Further to this have you tried out ausubi for some local knowledge? Cheers Bennie

I'm sorry if I've got my "negative hat" on - but are you sure you don't have a head gasket issue? To be able to see steam out the back of a vehicle travelling at cruise it's usually piped out there through the exhaust. A puddle on top of the engine that leaks further down onto the exhaust would not create enough steam to see out the back of a car unless it's very cold and dry. Check your compression on each cylinder and see what comes up. Also, is your oil milky? I do hope that it's not a head gasket issue, but I would like to know that you have thoroughly tested for a HG leak. Regards Bennie

All that awesome work mate, then the final moment of that first turn of the key - only to have it not do what you want it to do most Just read your thread from start to finish. Very impressive! I wish I had the skill and patience to do that sort of rust work that you've conquered! One question: Did you have the front and rear windows removed for the respray? I couldn't tell if they were installed or not when it left for the paint job. Keep up the good work! After all that I'd be inclined to keep it at stock height - it looks friggin' AWESOME!! Cheers Bennie

I've seen a guy shatter the cast alloy backing plate on the rear diff. If he had a bash plate on the rear diff this would not have happened. You never know what is possible in terms of damage. The way the suspension moves while traversing rocky terrain can see all sorts of things up under your vehicle, especially if you're not experienced enough to know better - or you slide over something you're trying to avoid... Over here the very least of protection is a sump guard/front bash plate... I've got an L series that I'm planning to build a guard for the fuel tank, I'm on my second one now (partly due to going EFI and I had a suitable tank available) - granite rocks that can move are great at damaging your underbody. I've got a ripper "battle scar" in front of my rear right wheel in the sill panel - I don't know how it got there nor did I feel or hear anything happen until I saw it once home. Cheers Bennie

Breaking that into paragraphs would have made it an easier read - but what an effort and an achievement! Dual use area... Are there specific days of the year that will be closed off annually for the Marine's training or will dates change from year to year? Very interesting to read that there is a city that acknowledges the positive economic impact of the wider 4wd'n community contributes! In Australia this would only occur for main annual events that occur - and maybe a bit for the remote communities such as Birdsville etc out near the Simpson Desert... Make sure you all keep using this area now that it's secured! Regards Bennie

Nah should be fine - have the fans hooked up for when the sender on the engine or ECU wants it - I definitely wouldn't have one in the radiator! The thermostat won't instantly close, it'll reduce the amount of flow into the engine (EJ setup) enough to maintain a good operating temp. If it doesn't work as required go with a smaller radiator or insulate the return pipe from the rad to the engine/run one thermo fan etc etc. Cheers Bennie

If this is the earlier style brat I reckon you'll need more lift than that to clear the EJ in the engine bay from what I've seen with these. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate. Yeah I know the XT6 is the Vortex, we only got the XT4 version. Any XT6's in Oz are known as a grey import or a personal import - not factory delivered here. Does the inlet and outlet port angles become an issue with fitment or are they not like the stock L series lower radiator angle? I'm hoping they're both only gently angled up at the most like what I can see in your pic above of the upper inlet pipe. And it turns out there's one in stock in Oz - surprising what you can find if you ask! Last question - have you fitted this radiator yet? Keen to know what sort of clearances you have between the engine and the radiator you have That's insane building two engines! Clearly you're passionate about this build - or you're keeping "Bloody Murphy" and his law away! With that spare engine built on the shelf waiting to go you'll not have an issue with the one you're running! Regards Bennie

If you've just drilled into an oil gallery it should be alright. It's at least worth a go - if it starts leaking profusely then swap the heads. My thoughts would be that you've possibly drilled into the exhaust port, in which case there's no need to stress, there might be a bit more turbulence in the exhaust gas but nothing that's going to slow down an EA82 any more than an EA82 already does Use your silicone on it as it should only help with the seal. Cheers Bennie

Awesome work Nico! I just posted in an old thread about this build - super old actually! I'm keen to know more about this XT6 radiator as it looks like it might be what I'm after for my EJ22'd L series that's in need of a new radiator. The only problem is that I'm looking on fleabay as we don't get the XT6 in oz. What I really would like to know is the angle of the lower rad outlet and the thickness of the radiator at the cores - space is always an issue between the rad and the front of the EJ as you'd know Keep up the good work! Regards Bennie

Nico, I've read your thread on RS liberty - keen to know more about this XT6 radiator as I think it might be just what I'm looking for. Where did you get yours? I need more details about the outlets as we don't get the XT6 down under so I can't look it up in one of our parts manuals (might double check that!). Basically want to know if the lower outlet points up like the stock EA82 radiator does. Hope the build is going well. I think this thread needs an update Regards Bennie

Ruby Scoo EJ22 4.11 ratio diffs Dual Range AWD gearbox with centre locking diff in EJ gearbox casing Dual battery system Safari Snorkel Remote Central locking Under bonnet (hood) storage 3 inch lift 27 inch tyres on 14 inch scorpion rims RXII "sports grille" (thanks to The Loyale) - we don't get them down under ^ Under here I can fit my Turfor winch, snatch strap kit, chain and small air compressor. I also manage to squeeze my sand flag under here. Currently doing the head gaskets... fun fun. Cheers Bennie

I did mine with a rattle/impact gun to do the job. It took some time to get it off even with the rattle gun. Once the nut was off I remember the flange coming off easily. I used the rattle gun to put it back on. Cheers Bennie