el_freddo

I've solved several clock issues simply by resoldering the "dry" joint. Just pull the clock apart and go from there, what needs to be done should be obvious! Cheers Bennie

Got a link to this parts site? I need some rear housing seals, and since I don't have a factory Australian delivered VIN with this gearbox I'm finding it near impossible to get the bits I need for my build. You need an NA PT4wd gearbox from the L series. MPFI will have the 25 spline diff output stubs and the carb'd units will have the smaller 23 splined output stubs. If you're really serious about a lower final drive you can have the pinion shaft cut and shut. Not ideal but it's a solution to the 3.9/3.7:1 ratios that are currently on offer. I've gone 4.111:1 with 27 inch diameter tyres and love it. I'd love to go to 4.44:1 but it's a cost thing Cheers Bennie

I've had this thought before - but that's about as far as it got. A Datsun 720 transfer case with the low range blanked out with a set of short nose nissan/datsun diffs in the rear there would make it all work in my imagination - you'd need a 3 or 4 inch lift minimum! I'm sure someone can do a better photoshop of the concept with larger wheels as well! Cheers Bennie

I've just noticed that in your spare wheel well that seam at the back is not sealed with factory sealer - DO NOT use sealer here! My L series has not got any and has no rust in this area. Several other wrecks I've seen (and have as parts) have this section sealed and painted from the factory, all have rust in there! Not a nice place to work on! The EJ22 is a great conversion to do! If you spend the time getting your head around the wiring you can bench test your engine and wiring before installing in the vehicle - that's what I did with mine. My L series also runs this gearbox but the dual range version that's been "tricked up" a little bit for offroading. I've just stuffed 2nd gear so I'm in the process of replacing the gearsets with something newer. It's just taking time. You can read about that thread here if you wish. If you want to see more of my ride just google Ruby Scoo Ausubaru or Youtube it So like all good projects, what's the start date that will be missed? Regards Bennie

Lucky bugger! I SO BADLY want one of these... and you guys say we got all the good stuff over here, well we sure missed out on this beauty! If you're going for all out performance go with an EJ box - these locking centre diff gearboxes are very precious Subaru material! Technically the centre diff is inferior to its later model counterparts. It's not hard to spin a front wheel when accelerating through a tight corner even when dry due to the diff being open... Personally I love my AWD L series box, but I've also got easy access to gearsets from dual range EJ gearboxes that I'm currently exercising I'm looking forward to seeing this restored to its former glory, EJ or not. Cheers Bennie

Nice work mate! The Safari wagon is certainly growing up! Did the snorkel attract some attention at the Subi meet - it certainly stands out! Best CAI you can get I reckon! So are you going with 29s or 31s? That's pretty bloody big for a subi! And I can only imagine your fuel "economy". That wheel arch replacement panel is insane - i didn't know you could get that stuff still! If I had a welder I could make Ruby Scoo into a new beast "straight off the showroom floor"! How's your body going for fatigue? I found that with the offroading I was doing you could hear the interior panel's mounting points creaking as you got pressure on each diagonal wheels. Since the body stitch welding I've eliminated that completely. Next build I'll be trying out doing this only with the window seams and the door jam seams where it can be hidden from our authorities - we're seriously restricted with what we're actually allowed to do over here Ruby Scoo is illegitimate as it is Cheers Bennie

Don't forget a new thermostat! The build looks good! These things take time! Cheers Bennie

Don't sell the wheels - roll the guards so you don't need to run with flares That would look totally awesome! Looks good mate! I still can't get over the amount of work you guys put into rust repairs, I really take my hat off to you all who do it! Over here a vehicle like that would be scrapped, which is why you don't see many these days Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

I'll also add that the above kit is for an "auto" - but a second brake switch on the clutch pedal is an easy conversion to make it a "manual" kit rather than buying their kit. Cheers Bennie

I've used this kit twice now with great results: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cruise-Control-Ap60-Diy-Vacuum-Actuator-Automatic-Universal-Fit-/251487481199?pt=Caravan_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8dd26d6f&_uhb=1 The first application was with my EJ22 converted L series. I've used the supplied magnets on the tail (prop) shaft for the Vehicle Speed Sensor pick up, works well. The other application was on my mother inlaw's Brumby. I'll be looking at adding it to my Brumby once it's on the road. Cheers Bennie

Geez Tom, that rear end is about to hit the stratosphere! What's the lift combo there? You've got some crazy angles on the rear drive shafts... Your L is looking great, I'd love to get the paint on Ruby Scoo shining like that, but I know I'd only scratch it again... Cheers Bennie

Looks like an EJ radiator to me. Neat looking unit. Pity it's an auto... Should be a great runner once fixed up properly. A few rust spots I didn't see earlier too Cheers Bennie

Sorry mate, you didn't specify 2wd or 4wd so I covered both. Not that it's relevant now but the 2wd clutch is different to the 4wd clutch in size of the disc and the gearbox input shaft. I also couldn't tell you if it's the same between dual range 4wd or single range 4wd. From other's responses it seems that it is the same. On top of the diff out put stub spline differences the turbo box also has the "dodgy" low range - 1.19:1 rather than the good L series low range of 1.59:1. Cheers Bennie

Lumber Jack Jeff - Why bother? The 4 speed would be a lot of work for what's really a backwards step IMO. Subarocket - I'd say that paying a shop will cost more than you'd think - especially if it's some sort of conversion, in which case this could come under that classification. Basically what I'm getting at is that if you're paying someone to do the work and they don't understand something it will take longer to sort it out. If it were a subaru specialist that knows their stuff about the older models I'd probably say go for it. Otherwise, if you pulled all the gear from the donor I'm sure you could put it in yours over a weekend. If you have a motor bike jack you can use this to remove the gearbox, my brother used one on his 10t truck with a modified frame - worked a treat! Tman1058 - I know it's been a while, but I wouldn't mind a push button 4wd setup for my ride - they're rare as hen's teeth in Oz! Cheers Bennie

Unless it's a 2wd it's pretty straight forward. If it's a 2wd you need all the rear end gear and make some mounts for the moustache bar Personally I'd also grab the flywheel and clutch setup from the donor vehicle just to be sure you've got everything you need - and avoid that disappointment when you've got it all together only to find that the clutch system doesn't work... Cheers Bennie

Along with all fluids, I'd also check out your bearings and make sure your drive shafts are in good order, any clicking ones either replace or carry a spare with the required tools to swap out. While probably not so much of a concern compared to Australian heat/weather, but if your radiator is of an unknown age with plastic end tanks have it replaced along with any rad/heater/coolant hoses that you don't know the age of. I blew the side out of my radiator in the middle of no where on a 45C day - that killed the old faithful EA82 I had at the time. It was a great trip though! Don't modify your engine and decide it's a good idea to do a trip that takes you across a continent and back without a decent amount of run time - I had barely 1000km on some solid lifters before we left, after the first 1000km of the 8500km round trip I relaxed about the solid lifters... One died. I had the tools to strip and replace with originals but it could've been so much worse than it was! Great trip, did I mention that! I'd also say check out as much stuff along the way as possible, don't leg/rush it to the destination thinking you'll see it all on the way home - if it goes pare shaped you'll luck out on your chance to see those sights! As for the bottom end of your EA82 - they're pretty much bullet proof - what lets the EA82 down is the rubber band cam belts and the cam box with it's factory oil leaks. Best to get on top of any oil leaks before you go. When you do the cam kit put new oil seals on the crank and cams, make sure they're lubed with a plastic grease so they don't prematurely wear out due to being dry, or start leaking due to an incorrect grease used to lube them with (such as what I've accidentally done on my EJ). If you think it needs replacing, replace it. If you need to save to do the maintenance on your vehicles, save for it - don't take the money out of your travel budget! If you're not on a time schedule for an event or something of the like, you've got time up your sleeve. If it makes it easier, build an EA82 up on the side while you daily run your L (if this is an option). Most of all, once you're on the road, have fun, enjoy the drive and make some good memories! Cheers Bennie

Awesome work mate! I think I need to get a welder! Also - how'd you end up doing the inner guard plumbing for the snorkel? Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... I need to get me one of these SPFI kits to play with some day... Personally I'm an EFI convert after stuffing around with an MPFI conversion to my originally carbed L. I'm currently considering MPFI'ing an EA81 more for shits and giggles than all out fuel economy... Cheers Bennie

I'm keen for pics of this return spring setup too - even though this thread has been quiet for over 2 years! Cheers Bennie

What tyre size are we talking here? 33's? I've seen a radius rod bent with a 3 inch lift and 27s - but that was due to "over enthusiastic" driving - and I mean REALLY over enthusiastic! I've been offroading my 3 inch lifted L with 27s for years now without issue, I've never considered the control arm to be an issue. Take things easy and you'll be fine. Drive like you're in the Dakar and you'll be in all sorts IMO Cheers Bennie

Pull the carb and clean it out - I wouldn't think you'd need a kit unless you want to do a general overhaul anyway. The compression, pretty low to run an engine IMO. But anything is possible. You could have bent things, or damages valve seats/have something stuck in a valve seat thus it's not closing properly. The factory tool kit has that long pressed tube with a different socket on each end - one end will remove spark plug no worries Cheers Bennie

Looking awesome there Thomas, and it's going to be even better once that snorkel is fitted properly! Then we'll be L series bothers in more ways than one - you have one of my ideas on your L, I've got one of your parts on mine (the coupe grille!) ^ That's Nachaluva Matt's Foz where I got the idea of which unit to use after comparing his before it went on his foz I'm not happy with my bracket on the A pillar - since my snorkel was hand-me-down second hand unit it didn't come with the bracket, this what I came up with using what I had. Not really neat and I'm still refining it - I got a rivnut tool and inserts to hold the bracket on now, previously I was using a couple of screws (highly NOT recommended!) While I had the sand in mine I took the time to do some bending of the snorkel's intake for a bit more of a natural angle - just makes it look like it's really meant to be there - I'll have to dig up an image of this being done - I used some rachet straps on some choice angles to get a better look, still could have pushed it further... but it's all good! I'm looking forward to the finished product! I bet you can't wait! Cheers Bennie

Yep, but thought it worth while for the "sake" of others - they're not just a simple bolt on upgrade Cheers Bennie

^ The "elusive" dual port EA81s heads - you need a matching cam to run with these heads! Cheers Bennie

I think it's time for more pics! Cheers Bennie