el_freddo

Probably best to find a good EJ22 Legacy as the donor vehicle - this will have all the bits you need except an external EFI fuel pump Cheers Bennie

Dunno if it's just me but I can't see any pics Cheers Bennie

You flip the rear strut mount, then use a BFH IF the strut fouls any of the guard with the top mount inverted. I'm sure you'll get more than an inch out of inverting that mount. You'll need spring compressors to do the job... Cheers Bennie

The rev thing with the brakes applied points to the booster - make sure the one way valve in the line is working properly - it's under the metal clamp somewhere in the line, I can't remember where exactly. The rev drop with the demist on could be a dodgy earth connection between the engine and the body - look into your earth strap on the engine and make sure it's securely fastened to the engine and the battery/body. Cheers Bennie

Finally pics as promised: If you're still not happy with these let me know and I'll "get some more" Cheers Bennie

Ok an update: I've hooked up the ECU thermo fan trigger wire into the "auto" mode of the above switch diagram without a diode - it works without issue. I found it interesting that the factory L series sensor trips in earlier than the ECU trigger wire does - but this was only on a warm up cycle in the driveway so things could be different when onroad with the ECU not triggering fans at speed etc. Either way it works. The AC idle up works a treat too. I've gone with HyChill and the idle up is a bit much for this gas as from what I've read it doesn't work the compressor as hard for the same result as r134a. Its awesome. At idle my tacho needle sits at about 1000 rpm (I think I need to look into the throttle position sensor's settings) without AC on, when the idle up kicks in it sits at about 1150ish revs... The cutout is yet to be sorted, I'm chasing which wire is responsible for turning the system on from the switch - but I could probably just run ignition power to the other side of the relay to do the same thing. While I was at all this wiring I also installed a Gen2 or Gen1 Series 2 alternator - a greeny square plug unit - much better/stable/higher voltage output compared to the old round plug alternator. Both round plugs I've run have struggled to maintain a charge voltage of 14 volts. This "new" alternator puts out 14.3v in just about all situations even when I've got everything on that I can possibly load it up with. Very happy. Cheers Bennie

If you're messing with the idle adjustment screw you'll have to grab your multimeter and adjust your Throttle Position Sensor. The idle is decided by the ECU, not by a mechanical screw in these EFI beasts. Set the TPS and see what happens to your idle Cheers Bennie

I've seen that before with the ring landings. I think it's from a very much over heated engine! Or an over revved one... Not sure as one engine we pulled down and found damaged ring landings was severely overheated - blew the side out of a hot radiator when boiling! The other was a parts yard engine that would smoke after off throttle rolling, the longer you were off throttle and rolling in gear the worse the smoke was - avoid big long hills! I think this engine could have been over revved - it had been rebuilt once before by the looks of the piston heads used. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... I can't picture that in my head with the yellow wire and where it gets tied into etc I've got this setup in my L for river crossings and hot weather driving on sand or during hill climbs: So in theory I take the ECU trigger and hook that into the back of my switch? What sort of diode would I need to protect the ECU, I would like to have that sort of protection! As for the type of AC I've got, I think it's a Denso compressor - it certainly has never had the tab hanging out over the fan belts with that black box on it like every other L series I've come across. I'll have to check the compressor to be sure it's a Denso, shouldn't be hard to do as it's living on my bench at the moment! So if I've got this straight: Hook up the AC input wire to the ECU from the AC dash switch and wire in a normally closed relay so that the ECU can short the relay circuit and cut the power to the AC compressor/system? If so, that relay would look something like this (using the horn relay code): Normally closed relay: Power from AC switch = 30 "Other side" of the AC switch wiring to the compressor/AC system etc = 87 Ignition switched power (positive) = 85 ECU AC relay cut wire (Plug F47, pin 22) = 86 At the same time have the AC on input wired in from the switch before the above relay - this will have the AC switch tell the ECU the AC is on, even when the ECU AC cutout relay is in play. Have I got this correct? Then the last piece to the puzzle is to wire in the thermo fan relay/trigger wire - hook into the yellow/black wire on the back of my switch ("auto mode") with a diode to protect the ECU so I can keep the radiator thermo switch in play. This setup should have the AC pressure switch already wired into the factory thermo wiring so no need to hook the ECU into this - but looking at the wiring diagram the EJ system has it the same, just that the ECU triggers it instead of a thermo switch in the radiator. It's late over here, I've had a big day but I hope I've got my head around it - that's what I love about doing wiring conversions - get your head around it then it all falls into place and just becomes "easy" next time! I also hope I haven't blown anyone's mind on this either! I've really enjoyed the reading with the last couple of posts thanks to Goyale and Presslab. I'm hoping you can confirm I've got his right, and if not, then correct my error or show a wiring diagram I can view. I believe I've got it all sorted correctly though. Regards Bennie

That's a very nice looking piece of kit. I bet the price is "just as good" too. I'm guessing it's got a build in intercooler? Cheers Bennie

DL on the left (Ruby Scoo), GL touring wagon on the right (Sheldon). The touring wagon is bog stock including stock height. You should also be able to see the difference in the tailgate height that other members have already noted Your touring wagon should also have carpets, plush seats, AC, PS and power windows/mirrors... Cheers Bennie

How do I tell the ECU to turn the thermos on when I've got the AC on? And I found some wiring diagrams from numchux's website. Just google subaru EJ wiring diagram and he'll be in there somewhere - maybe even throw his name into the search Cheers Bennie

Thanks guys, that was just what I was after. I'll get a new rear main and leave that other one alone! Why is it there anyway? Cheers Bennie

G'day all, I'm hoping someone here will be able to help me out. I've just noticed a "second" seal on the back of an EA81 crankshaft. There's the usual one then between the bolt holes and the flywheel centring ridge is an orange seal. My local parts joint only have one number for the EA81 rear main seal. Do I need to replace this orange seal or just leave it? It's not leaking but while I'm in there it's usually worth doing. Any insight or thoughts on this appreciated. Regards Bennie

Kaki, I reckon it is - the hardest part is finding a snorkel that's suitable, after this it's the inner guard work to hook it up. Cutting the hole is always a moment to remember - and get right the first time! Bratman, how's your mod coming along? Did you go with the one you linked earlier in the thread, and if so, is it plastic? Cheers Bennie

Thanks Goyale, I'm familiar with the bosch horn relays and their coding. So now I just need to source the wire from the ECU - anyone happen to know which wire it is for a 1991/1992 legacy EJ22? The page I used to get the wiring diagram from has disappeared which is very frustrating! Also while we're on the topic of wiring, I'm looking at getting my AC sorted. I remember an "AC relay cut" wire - do I need to hook some wire from the AC into the ECU so the ECU knows the AC is on and loading the engine at idle? Cheers Bennie

I would say a bit of air movement under the bonnet can only be a good thing. The oil cooler won't be any good without it anyway... Cheers Bennie

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/382308/1987-subaru-gl/ And here's another blog. Cheers Bennie

I can't remember the running details of this subi ^ Build thread to this one ^, quite a few missing images but there are some good ones in there. Generally the lift combo over here is a 3 inch lift and 27 inch tyres. I know I've got this on my L wagon and it's a sweet setup for daily driving and some great offroading ability! Cheers Bennie

I must admit that I played with those little dedent balls and springs for sometime making sure I had it correct before I closed it all up and put it in the vehicle... It's lots of fun to get it back together, there's a sequence but I can't remember it from memory. It was good fun! All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

So it's saved?! Any subaru in good condition is worth saving - mechanicals are simple to work on, body shape and rust are not so easy to! Cheers Bennie

Well, now there's two L's out there (that I know of) with the plastic snorkel, this one is mounted differently to mine: And it's a carbie setup, here's the intake setup: This is Species' L series, build thread here, these pics can be found on page 4 Bratman, I don't think there's anything wrong with a fibreglass snorkel, but bending it would be an issue I reckon - I've not tried or know how to bend fibreglass, if it's possible at all. Cheers Bennie PS: I've not got any better pics of my snorkel as I said I would - I still want to modify the top of the snorkel as it's not sitting the way I want it to...

And with that said, I've got an EJ22 with a 2 1/4 inch exhaust and I reckon that's plenty big. Personally I'd be looking at a 2 inch exhaust, but if you're building the extractors you might as well port match from the head then go the two inch after the cat and do what you want from there. To big too early leads to a bad sound and poor performance... Cheers Bennie

The dizzy can be found on a ford escort and it will bolt to the passenger's side head - there'a plate that covers the hole for the dizzy to bolt to and mate with the cam shaft. There was actually a factory carb fed EJ that came out I think in Latin America - there are pics around of this. One of the boys in WA Australia built a weber fed EJ22 with one of these escort dizzys. So I'd say it could be done, and the fact that the EJ18 is the same capacity as the EA82 I don't see why the SPFI couldn't work on the EJ18 with some effort. Cheers Bennie

This was Lapsed's wagon in WA Australia. It ran a 3 inch lift, 27 inch tyres and an EJ25 with DOHC. It was 4wd'n so much that the body ended up fatiguing to the point that it needed to be retired. This engine has managed to work it's way into my backyard for a future project... Cheers Bennie