el_freddo

There was also a factory Carb'd EJ sold I believe in the Latin American markets. There are images of them around... Another guy in/near Perth, Australia built his own one too using a fiori or ford escort dizzy and I think a weber carb. Probably the same as monstaru's build... Cheers Bennie

How could you not notice rust that serious if it's torque twisting the body? Or has a body mount rusted out? Cheers Bennie

Pull the engine and do the seals when you do the L series 5 speed upgrade Cheers Bennie

Any grinding when down shifting is usually due to worn synchros - this means the gearbox has been well used or the previous owner doesn't use the clutch properly. Rev matching is the best way to avoid this as a gearbox rebuild really isn't worth while unless you know what you're doing/own a gearbox specialist workshop... Cheers Bennie

Yes it's doable - but as mentioned be aware that seals etc are very well worth the effort while the engine is out. Rear main is a must! Is this EJ a twin overhead cam (DOHC) or a single overhead cam (SOHC) EJ? IF it's a SOHC it'll drop straight in, if DOHC you'll need to hammer/notch the chassis rails to clear the cam covers... As for the radiator, just use the stock unit with a piece of the factory EA hose size with the EJ hose over that done up nice and tight - much like those rubber adaptors you can get. Have you already filed the flywheel to fit the EJ crank bolt pattern? With an adaptor plate you need to use the EA flywheel to make use of the factory EA clutch. WIth a weekend swap the neatness of the wiring will be very tricky - and that's just fitting it to the vehicle. You'll need to work out where you're going to source your power(s), earth, fuse panel (yes, run an auxiliary one between the EJ harness and the Brat's factory loom to protect both from eachother); also to consider where you'll fit the ECU and it's check engine light (must have!), how you'll mod the exhaust and how you'll run a fuel return line - will you be using a "swirl pot" for the EFI pump? If you're going to cut the wiring down over the same weekend that you'll fit the engine you'll be pushing tin with only two of you with neither having done the conversion before. Get the wiring cut down and if possible do a bench test fire of the engine, if it runs go from there, if not reassess your wiring! I know of a "double conversion" done over a weekend in Western Australia - but this was a bunch of mates (4 to 6 from memory) that did everything from a pile of parts and a Friday Arvo. In my opinion, get the wiring cut down to only what you need. You'll need to source a wiring diagram/schematics for that particular vehicle to know what you'll need. I suspect you might need the security part of the wiring loom to make it work, but I could be wrong here as I've only messed with a mid '90's EJ loom. All the best with the conversion, it sounds exciting with the weekend challenge! Cheers Bennie

Two things: First, the worst: You could have bent a con rod but not enough to stop the engine or really notice it when the engine is running, only a pressure test will determine this. Second - you could have a crank case full of water so the engine was working harder to move all that liquid due to it's height. As you cranked without removing the spark plugs you were probably forcing water past the rings into the sump - and possibly doing more damage to the rings too. Always, always, ALWAYS remove the spark plugs before trying to start a hydrolocked engine! It's also a good idea to turn it over by hand a few times before using the starter motor with the spark plugs still removed. I hope you've not done any damage and it's just a case of a high sump level - check your oil to make sure it's not a water/oil soup Cheers Bennie

Mate, hats off to you for your effort! That's real commitment even after that embarrassing break down - I think many would have just gone home straight off the bat from that blow out! Also, either your oil pressure sender unit is reading low or you have a low oil issue. I remember the EA82 pumping out about 60psi from 2750rpm onwards. What does the new block push? That new block is just an NA Carb block - no SPFI there. So with that block you'll be running a higher compression too All the best for the next event! Cheers Bennie

There's a weird metallic noise I can hear, particularly when you rev it up and it plateaus. I'm wondering if this is messing with your knock sensor. Also, what exhaust are you running - that's not restricting the engine is it? Cheers Bennie

Yeah, sorry, pretty tired when I wrote that... We were bloody lucky it didn't let go, we would've been badly stuck. Sorry mate, I wasn't that guy with the EA72 - never heard of that one. Cheers Bennie

Same for me Cheers Bennie

Datsun L series engine The way I did it wasn't fantastic as I used two bolts per solid lifter and the measurement I gave the machinist was nice and tight yet I found that each HVLA were slightly different. I used two bolts fitted inside a gutted lifter, hence why they were all slightly different. What I'd do a second time around would be use a threaded sleeve that I'd lock into the gutted lifter with a grub screw drilled in at an angle to put pressure on the wall of the lifter slot/hole. This would also sort out the adjustment locking nut to lock properly without having to stop the whole assembly from spinning. Solid lifters were a PITA to adjust - engine out is the only way, removing the cambox and replacing it to check the change in the tolerance was a crap job to say the least! Get one wrong and it either taps away or the valve doesn't seal. Once they were in the stock MPFI seemed sluggish - until you hit 4000rpm, then it screamed from there upwards! I was running the same cam profile of the HVLAs, which was probably part of the issue. What ruined these for me was that I sent in 16 bolts to be shaved down and only got 15 back. I was on a deadline so ran one lifter without a second bolt - this ended up letting go and it almost sent a valve into the cylinder, one of the half moon clips on the top of the valve dropped out and the other wouldn't have been far away - we had to limp 1km to pull over. And we were on a trip across Australia, 2 hours east of Ceduna with the engine in bits to replace the modified units. Here's the result of the busted one: I got the idea from a mate in QLD that's running the same setup in his bug with a carb EA82 - that thing screamed right through the rev range! Cheers Bennie

I did my wedges like this: It's upside down due to making them on the engine stand with the cross member on top of the up side down engine Make a wedge for each side. Cheers Bennie

My thought was trying to reset the ECU too. Don't forget that you shouldn't touch anything for the first 5 minutes after starting to let the ECU work out it's parameters. Having the second O2 sensor would help out too. My other thoughts are that your fuel pressure regulator might be stuffed. Or there is something between the donor vehicle and this one that you're missing. It really is a guessing game without being near the vehicle to physically check it out All the best (subscribed) Bennie

Being that this is an MPFI turbo the drive shafts should already be the larger 25 spline like the EJ units. If not a new set of front shafts from a MPFI EA82 or MPFI EA82T '87 onwards will fit the EJ output stubs. Or if you're really keen, split the box and swap the output stubs with a set of 23 spline EA units The EJ22t swap would be dope - and it's been done before, do a search for Turbone (I think) - he's got a schmick L coupe that I could only dream of owning something like it (even with an EA82!). Cheers Bennie

That has me up to date for now Cheers Bennie

Same breather hole. I can't remember how long I had that last set up but there was a considerable amount of oil in the breather line. I'm much happier with how I've routed the hose up higher, any oil that ends up in the line will drain back. Cheers Bennie

I'd be checking the timing belts on your current EA82 - sounds to me like you've skipped a tooth and a belt tensioner is loose. Couldn't hurt to check while you're getting the Ej sorted. As for the conversion, it really transforms the L series into a very driveable vehicle. I certainly like mine. Usually you'd go with an EJ engine that's a drop and go or at the most a head gasket swap - a rebuild just adds to the time and cost of getting the conversion going. By all means go for the EJ - but you'll need your EA to keep going until you know you've got the EJ ready to go. I bench tested my wiring before I put it in the L Cheers Bennie

Info on that leggy? that thing is dope! The Liberty is an EJ20t conversion, auto, not sure of the specs there. Two inch strut top lift. Went pretty well offroad, but the larger turbo didn't do well in the boost department at altitude, and it wasn't great altitude either - ~1400 to ~1700 metres... I'm now looking into some rooftop lights for Ruby Scoo, but dunno how it's going to go as the snorkel will get in the way I reckon... Cheers Bennie

I did the same trick a few months ago, but I ran my line up the middle of the trans tunnel to behind a front strut tower - this keeps any fumes outside of the cabin - I'm not convinced on the fuel filter trick. One thing I'd do different is try to protect your line along the moustache bar - I did this on a previous diff, it ended up splitting due to a rock being flicked from the front end, diff oil went everywhere as the breather ended up being full of it as I didn't put a large enough bend in the top of it... Cheers Bennie

I wouldn't mind a set of those rims for my brumby... one day maybe! Cheers Bennie

It was awesome fun. So much so that I went out again the next day with a Canadian mate to film a particular track that the camera stopped filming due to me stalling... Here it is here: That mob of Land Rovers had just come down the track - almost 2 hours later they were still there with the last two vehicles waiting half way up the track - I'm sure they must have had lunch first! There was a request on another forum to "make sure you take some pics" - so I made sure of that! I had about 300, mostly sequences as you can see with Deadman's forester later in the pics. Cheers Bennie

G'day all, I've been lucky enough to get out bush again for a few hours this time after our commemoration of the sacrafices our armed force's personnel make to allow us to do and have what we have today. This occurs every year on the 25th of April - ANZAC day. I started with the dawn service at Mt Macedon with my brother - we camped out to avoid the new bus system. It was once again a good and moving ceremony. Then at 12pm I met up with Subaruby (silver foz) and Deadman (white foz). Subaruby was in a stock foz, Deadman's foz is a stock 2L drivetrain and wheel combination with a 2 inch strut lift, custom front bar with winch. My L series - Ruby Scoo - has EJ22, 4.11 ratio diffs with front LSD and centre locking awd L box, 3 inch lift and 27 inch tyres. Here are the pics, enjoy - feel free to make up your own captions. It was an awesome day out! Tracks hit up: Pole Tk, Camp Tk, Soil Pit Tk. From here Subaruby departed. Then Reily's fire break tk, some random fire track, Croziers loop tk, another random track or two before popping out on Mooney's Lane to end the day's session. Thanks to Subaruby and Deadman for coming for the day. Apologies for not having done a reccie before the day as the tracks had severely changed since I was last in the area! Cheers Bennie Cobaw State Forest: -37.239759,144.629173

New video of one of the tracks that took about two and a bit hours to get from one end to the other: Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the feedback guys. I enjoy organising these trips, participating in them then sharing our experiences in the form of what you see above Glad to hear it mate! I'd love to have Ruby Scoo on some trips out your way too! Best of luck with that. An oxygen tank or three would help out too Rust proofing could be a bit of a short term issue! Cheers Bennie

Editing all sorted - word processing program had them as links and the forum made each image a link instead of an image. Some editing time sorted the issue, so enjoy! (I can't work out how to delete this post). Cheers Bennie