el_freddo

It will rotate the correct way. The IFS diff in the toyotas effectively runs backwards to what the gears are cut for - I can't remember the technical term is for this. Anyway it can work, the hardest part will be working out how to attach the rear drive shafts and how to make them shorter and still have the full movement of the rear suspension. The long shaft of the IFS is removed, 6mm shaved off it's mounting face and then you'll be able to fit a matching oil seal and output shaft that's used on the other side from factory. I've done the research on this, just haven't had the time to play with it. Once this is sorted out there are a range of diff ratios available from factory and aftermarket, and the lockers... well, that's the aim of the whole thing! Mounting it in the rear wouldn't be hard to work out, lengthen the prop shaft and you're sorted. I've thought about this combination for quite some time, even have an IFS yota diff in the shed to play with that I've not had time for Sorry for the hijack! Cheers Bennie

That'd be great Bratman! Cheers Bennie

Been a while on this one - did it end up turning out as a successful conversion? Cheers Bennie

Thread dig: I'm wondering if you've got any pics of this conversion, I'm namely after how you mounted the injectors as I too am interested in doing this to an EA81. The subaru MPFI system works fine for what I want and I think that and the EA81 should make for an interesting combination for a cheap daily driver. Regards Bennie

Total thread dig while looking for info on EA81 MPFI custom setups... This engine above Miles, is it mechanical injection or what? I can't work out what that cluster of fuel lines are on the Passenger's side. Regards Bennie

Yeah maybe, but when going remote for 5-7 days you need to be totally self sufficient. Plus we're touring so leaving stuff at camp isn't always an option and I don't trust others that might visit our camp when we're gone - there are some real bastards around here This is what my subi looks like all loaded up with my wife and I for a 9 day trip that incorporated a wedding, a stint in a remote area for 7 days then a trip to the high country (snow) - so we needed to be prepared for the wedding, hot summer like weather plus remote touring and have our gear to rug up in for the high country. Here's Ruby Scoo with all of that: And Ruby Scoo loaded up with three, wasn't really cool but she did it well: Too true monstaru! Love the remote stuff - gotta drive 5 hours to get there but it's worth it! Cheers Bennie

I've made up a rear cargo storage area, I'm still refining it but the main sections are there: Milk creates replaced with proper storage containers that have been carefully selected for their size to fit in and to what they're carrying. Light for night time. The most has been made of all storage areas, these are behind the rear seats and fit in really well. Then came the walls of the setup and this has added a lot of easy organisation of the whole thing... Just about all the tools I need are carried here - jack, handle, block of wood, random bucket of tools containing things like a spare rear bearing and replacement tool kit (custom), deep socket set, tub of high temp grease, G clamp, welding gloves for hot stuff. Then there's my electrical box, socket/spanner set, ammo box of other tools and small air compressor, soft hammer and small mallet. Dual battery for running the 40L engel - goes well, still sorting out appropriate gauges to watch what the battery is doing. Also this setup allows me to use the cargo area under the floor in the rear of the L series, random stuff gets put in there at the moment. As for spare drive shafts, they live down the side of the setup on the LHS, I only carry one front and one rear shaft, plus the 36mm socket and 3/4 inch drive breaker bar to do the tough work for me. Cheers Bennie

If you want the best torque you can't go past the H6 with a manual gearbox - period! A mate of mine has a 2.5L liberty converted to a H6 and it simply FLIES! The trick to getting good fuel economy is to build a box that will suit the engine - keep those revs lower than the H4 and you'll come out on top - but flog it all the time and that will go out the window, not that I can see you doing that all the time! Again, I think the manual with a lower 5th gear would be best for this. Check out All Drive Suparoo in Australia for the lower 5th gear set, it's not expensive and I believe it's not difficult to swap it. Looks like a very interesting project, certainly a strange looking machine! We don't get anything like that over here... All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Here's my write up That's basically how I did mine Cheers Bennie

I hope this helps things along And before a few of the above pics - is this offroad enough for you?? Love my subi - Ruby Scoo, but we've not been out enough this year due to work mainly - oh, and living in an un-interesting flat country doesn't help! Cheers Bennie

If you can spin a spanner and read a DIY manual you'll find these machine's pretty easy to work on! I know I've had fun with mine - it's not the same vehicle I originally purchased but I still love it and it's all subaru Cheers Bennie

I thought with the EA82's the check engine light only came on when there was an issue and to check stored codes you needed to plug in the green wires and turn the ignition to the "ON" position without the engine running. This is how it's done for the Australian delivered vehicles - I guess it could be different out your way though... Cheers Bennie

From what I understand of the EA81's 4wd light switching system, the light to indicate you're in 4wd is located on the base of the 4wd lever, the low range is found at the gearbox. To wire in your EA82 5spd box use the above 4wd marked wires from the low range switch on the gearbox. To wire in the 4wd light you'll need to run two wires from the gearbox switch into the cab to the wiring at the base of the 4wd lever. Once you've done this you'll have your proper 4wd light and low range light working properly Cheers Bennie

This is only what I have read, so it's not experiential nor confirmed on my part: The L series 5th gear isn't interchangeable with the EJ 5th gearset - apparently the shaft diametres are different. But I don't know if this runs true for the L series AWD lockable centre diff gearbox. My gut feeling is either as well which is of no use. Again, what I've read is that the L 5th isn't compatible with the EJ 5th, that's about all I can give you without you investigating further. Regards Bennie

Thanks for the info guys! R12 has been banned for sale in Australia for some time. From what I understand if an authorised operator still has it in stock (re-claimed) they are allowed to use it on a well serviced system. But they are not allowed to buy more fresh gas. I'm keen for this hydro-carbon setup. Sounds like I can use my current system without any changes and it's better for the environment if the system leaks at some point. I've got some research to do now. The only question I've got at this point is where can I get a vacuum pump from? Cheers Bennie

G'day, I'm super keen to get my AC back online - I've never had it all hooked up since buying the car many years ago. It's all still there but now with an EJ compressor. I'm hoping to have a set of custom hoses made up to adapt this AC pump to the EA system. I'm after information as to how to go about refilling the system - what oil and how much to use and where to get the dye from too. Then how to add it all in and how to vent air in the process. Also does anyone know what PSI the system should have in it? Cheers Bennie

Yeah it's a RWD and there's a build thread on NAISO or whatever the forum is called. An interesting read - the customer's requirements was that it needs to "rip good skids". Cheers Bennie

Ok, I'm not keen on running the different ratios, even if it is a tiny bit out. Through some other questions else where on the web I've found that I can get the 4.111:1 at a reasonable price - last time I checked it was two or three times the current amount. Plan is to fit another vehicle's diff to the rear of my subi and run an air locker - this way I can still safely use my AWD in the snow/really slippery conditions without the rear end sliding out as it would with a welded or auto locker. Cheers Bennie

G'day - this could be a stupid question from a crazy Aussie, but here goes anyway: If I was going to drop a 4.10:1 ratio rear diff into my subi with a 4.111:1 front ratio what would be the consequences of this on the viscous centre diff? Got an idea in my head that I want to do on the cheap if possible - I really don't want to buy a new R&P set if possible, but I also really don't want to destroy my centre diff. I know the ratios are close, but are they close enough not to do damage? Cheers Bennie

It's amazing what a new and larger sized exhaust can do to transform a car! Are you still running the stock EA82 or have you got a turbo EA or a conversion of some sort? Cheers Bennie

What a beast! I think I just fell in love with another subaru Interesting thread. Shame there's not more of these engines kicking around. Cheers Bennie

Worst case scenario is that you need a new clutch pressure plate - a kit will come with a new throw out bearing too. The other thing it could be is a very low/worn clutch disc, less meat makes the clutch pressure plate move in further to provide the clamping force - thus less movement on the fork and ultimately the clutch pedal. All the best with it Cheers Bennie

When you get the new covers, don't use the bolts as per factory to hold the front covers on. I've removed these bolts and use cable ties (zip ties over your way). Works a treat and there's no thread turning business in the rear cases with cable ties Cheers Bennie

The default forum style used to have a dark grey background. 2.7 Loyale used to post with this colour font and thus it's hard to read now. I highlight it to read it, much easier He's since changed his font colour too! As for the roll over, I don't know why people are disgusted at the damage - that stands well in my book - if it didn't move then the momentum that the vehicle has would be fully transferred to the occupants thus throwing them around with the potential for real injury. Try doing that in an L series and see who comes off the worst... Best of luck on the replacement/build - which ever route you decide to go down Cheers Bennie

It's all coming together for you very well tractor pole! Great feeling isn't it? Especially the engine wiring - getting that right first go is pretty important in my book, and when it all fires up as it should it's even sweeter! Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie