el_freddo

If you can spin a spanner and read a DIY manual you'll find these machine's pretty easy to work on! I know I've had fun with mine - it's not the same vehicle I originally purchased but I still love it and it's all subaru Cheers Bennie

I thought with the EA82's the check engine light only came on when there was an issue and to check stored codes you needed to plug in the green wires and turn the ignition to the "ON" position without the engine running. This is how it's done for the Australian delivered vehicles - I guess it could be different out your way though... Cheers Bennie

From what I understand of the EA81's 4wd light switching system, the light to indicate you're in 4wd is located on the base of the 4wd lever, the low range is found at the gearbox. To wire in your EA82 5spd box use the above 4wd marked wires from the low range switch on the gearbox. To wire in the 4wd light you'll need to run two wires from the gearbox switch into the cab to the wiring at the base of the 4wd lever. Once you've done this you'll have your proper 4wd light and low range light working properly Cheers Bennie

This is only what I have read, so it's not experiential nor confirmed on my part: The L series 5th gear isn't interchangeable with the EJ 5th gearset - apparently the shaft diametres are different. But I don't know if this runs true for the L series AWD lockable centre diff gearbox. My gut feeling is either as well which is of no use. Again, what I've read is that the L 5th isn't compatible with the EJ 5th, that's about all I can give you without you investigating further. Regards Bennie

Thanks for the info guys! R12 has been banned for sale in Australia for some time. From what I understand if an authorised operator still has it in stock (re-claimed) they are allowed to use it on a well serviced system. But they are not allowed to buy more fresh gas. I'm keen for this hydro-carbon setup. Sounds like I can use my current system without any changes and it's better for the environment if the system leaks at some point. I've got some research to do now. The only question I've got at this point is where can I get a vacuum pump from? Cheers Bennie

G'day, I'm super keen to get my AC back online - I've never had it all hooked up since buying the car many years ago. It's all still there but now with an EJ compressor. I'm hoping to have a set of custom hoses made up to adapt this AC pump to the EA system. I'm after information as to how to go about refilling the system - what oil and how much to use and where to get the dye from too. Then how to add it all in and how to vent air in the process. Also does anyone know what PSI the system should have in it? Cheers Bennie

Yeah it's a RWD and there's a build thread on NAISO or whatever the forum is called. An interesting read - the customer's requirements was that it needs to "rip good skids". Cheers Bennie

Ok, I'm not keen on running the different ratios, even if it is a tiny bit out. Through some other questions else where on the web I've found that I can get the 4.111:1 at a reasonable price - last time I checked it was two or three times the current amount. Plan is to fit another vehicle's diff to the rear of my subi and run an air locker - this way I can still safely use my AWD in the snow/really slippery conditions without the rear end sliding out as it would with a welded or auto locker. Cheers Bennie

G'day - this could be a stupid question from a crazy Aussie, but here goes anyway: If I was going to drop a 4.10:1 ratio rear diff into my subi with a 4.111:1 front ratio what would be the consequences of this on the viscous centre diff? Got an idea in my head that I want to do on the cheap if possible - I really don't want to buy a new R&P set if possible, but I also really don't want to destroy my centre diff. I know the ratios are close, but are they close enough not to do damage? Cheers Bennie

It's amazing what a new and larger sized exhaust can do to transform a car! Are you still running the stock EA82 or have you got a turbo EA or a conversion of some sort? Cheers Bennie

What a beast! I think I just fell in love with another subaru Interesting thread. Shame there's not more of these engines kicking around. Cheers Bennie

Worst case scenario is that you need a new clutch pressure plate - a kit will come with a new throw out bearing too. The other thing it could be is a very low/worn clutch disc, less meat makes the clutch pressure plate move in further to provide the clamping force - thus less movement on the fork and ultimately the clutch pedal. All the best with it Cheers Bennie

When you get the new covers, don't use the bolts as per factory to hold the front covers on. I've removed these bolts and use cable ties (zip ties over your way). Works a treat and there's no thread turning business in the rear cases with cable ties Cheers Bennie

The default forum style used to have a dark grey background. 2.7 Loyale used to post with this colour font and thus it's hard to read now. I highlight it to read it, much easier He's since changed his font colour too! As for the roll over, I don't know why people are disgusted at the damage - that stands well in my book - if it didn't move then the momentum that the vehicle has would be fully transferred to the occupants thus throwing them around with the potential for real injury. Try doing that in an L series and see who comes off the worst... Best of luck on the replacement/build - which ever route you decide to go down Cheers Bennie

It's all coming together for you very well tractor pole! Great feeling isn't it? Especially the engine wiring - getting that right first go is pretty important in my book, and when it all fires up as it should it's even sweeter! Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, This is how I wired up a switch to activate one of the fans: Works a treat. But: If you need this to keep the car cool then there's either something else wrong with the cooling system OR the bash plate and two factory stone guard/oil catch plates (what ever you want to call them) are missing - these create a negative pressure in the engine bay that effectively sucks air through the radiator. Also block any gaps around the radiator, I know our brumby has a good one inch gap on one side of it. Must be an MY thing Cheers Bennie

It's not the springs that are different, it's the strut length. Sedan or 2wd rear struts are longer for the lower mounting point on the 2wd rear swing arm. Swapping the 2wd arm for the 4wd arm bumps up the rear height - even with the same springs. I can't remember what the difference is but it's not a lot! All the best with the rallycross! Cheers Bennie

I believe it is. The rear casing is the important part, it has to move with the centre diff otherwise it won't work. The rear casing bolt pattern is common on the manual gearboxes from the L series right up to the point that subaru went to the 6 speed manuals, this is where they changed if there is one. You can build a dual range dccd from an L series RX AWD gearbox, swap the pinion to the diff ratio you want that matches the dccd. If you go with the 1.59:1 L series low range you will need to shave the ring gear for the 4.11 front diff and even more on the 4.44 ring gear. Bolt it together, wire up the dccd and you should be good to go. Downer is that if you're running an EJ engine you'll need an adaptor plate and most likely a beefed up EA clutch too. Cheers Bennie

You don't need a press - just a 50mm tow ball and a BFH does the job. It will move. To replace the new casing use the old one to hammer the new one in. This trick won't damage the new casing as you'll have a flat edge against it that's not taking the brunt of the blow from the hammer Works a treat for me - I've only had to take EJ bearings to a press. Cheers Bennie

I made my own. Works a treat - nothing like having the right tool for the job! Took a bit of work to get it right but it's an essential piece of kit these days! Cheers Bennie

Awesome Superu! Toonga, I think Superu was talking about the box that Loyale 2.7 turbo had posted the photo about. I'm sure Superu is in the know that his gearbox from Taza isn't a locking centre diff gearbox. Cheers Bennie

If the US market is anything like it is in Oz, that's true as they only came from the factory as an auto. Go for it. A manual gearbox won't be an issue - no computer electronics to worry about - you only need to run the engine. The stand alone won't care what it's got behind it as it will just run the engine. Makes things easy! Cheers Bennie

L series moulded carpet Yes in Oz, but they ship world wide... Cheers Bennie

+1 for a blocked core or a partial blockage at least. Back flush the core, rod the pipes from the engine where you can and hopefully something will come of it. Or the temp sender unit has an issue. Cheers Bennie

Personally I'd be looking for the H6 that's got an individual exhaust port for every cylinder. I think you also get variable valve timing with this one too. The exhaust I was talking about was on one of the above engines. I'll see if I can dig up the build thread on that subaru Here's the link Cheers Bennie