el_freddo

AWESOME news mate! How long was it on the boat for? And how long did it take you to install it?? I hope it's well worth the effort!! I know it will be. What are the specs again? If it's got a dodgy low range the L series low range is well worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

Yeah that's about right But that also just looks odd! Cheers Bennie

Awesome! I want to see pics of this - and how it progresses! You can go the factory ECU if you can deal with all the wiring, security and the possible integration of the Body Computer Module (or some name of the like) which is where they incorporate EVERYTHING into the ECU. Stand alone makes sense here and they're the way to go for power in the long run IMO. You'll love the H6 and manual combination. I've got a mate with the H6 and a manaul box in his liberty and it's a machine. Doesn't look like a WRX but would certainly give one a good run for it's money! With the right exhaust they sound awesome too (like an old holden 186 - an aussie thing). Bucket loads of torque right off from idle to the red line - bucket loads for a subi anyway. I think you'll be loving the H6. I'm guessing that since this is a mid mount that you'll be going RWD only - if that's the case you'll need to find some sort of spool for the centre diff and a blanking plate for the rear output. Of course you'll have to sort out gear shift linkages from the rear of the box but this has been done before with other conversions (not necessarily on this forum). Dad did this when he dropped a 13B rotary into his VW fast back then 180'd the drive train to make it a mid mount. I was about 3 at the time! Look forward to the development of this project! Cheers Bennie

OSF, Thought about an inverter and an electric blanket? Could be a rather large inverter though! Bonuses of this - easy to remove/reverse and if you go with a dual battery setup you could keep it on for a bit after you get into bed! That was my random thought in the middle of teaching a class today... Cheers Bennie

Yeah the 1.59:1 low range will have an issue clearing the OBX diff - you'll have to shave some of the diff housing off the side opposite the ring gear side (hope this makes sense). This has been done in a mate's liberty with a H6 powering the EA internals with the 1.59:1 low range and the OBX front LSD. It's going well too. And this is what's being done with my gearbox too. I SO can't wait to have this box in Ruby Scoo! I believe this has been done in other gearboxes over here but I can't be sure about that and I've not been around them to say how they're going. But if this setup is holding up to the H6 I don't see why it would be an issue - so long as you don't abuse it, just like any gearbox. Cheers Bennie

I'm trying to patiently wait for some under bonnet pics of the donks - when will these be available? I love pics, not having a dig at you but I personally think the more pics the better! It'll be great to see these back on the road again! Cheers Bennie

Good stuff mate! Looks like the repairs are coming along already, and if they're not I'm sure they will be shortly! Cheers Bennie

The rear end of that thing looks a bit shelby like with those fat tyres on the rear - very muscle like! Cheers Bennie

Twitch, I'm really feeling for you mate! I love those little brumbys - and a targa top as well. What was the driver that hit you doing (other than not braking)??? I hope you find a suitable replacement if not another one; and that your medical expenses are sorted so you're not out of pocket, AND that you're fully mended before long! Cheers Bennie

Sweet Ride!! How many k's and is it the original paint? Very clean! Think I'm going to have to save some coin and sort a shipping container to fill with some choice subi's to enjoy cruising in! Cheers Bennie

Me too mate, Me too! But they never rolled off a showroom floor in Australia To save you some coin the old clock could have been opened up, the dry solder joint(s) found and re-soldered. It's worked a treat for me on 3 clocks so far! Also, I'm guessing that with your three door that it is an RXII from what I've researched. The grille, RX turbo dash and the fact that it's an EA82T are dead giveaways. The rear LSD is also a good indicator. I'd put my money on it that IF it has the factory gearbox it is AWD with a centre diff lock. Awesome box, can't wait to have mine sorted (again, rare as hens teeth over here!). Further to the above, the LHS button pad on the dash board, where the flat grey blank buttons are. These grey ones can be replaced with any L series buttons that are the same style as the black rimmed ones with the grey pad in the centre. The flat grey ones are from the earlier model L's Look after that coupe, I'm sure I'm not the only jealous forum member that's drooling over yours! Cheers Bennie

I'm guessing you haven't read Toonga's build thread on ausubi. Now that's one hell of a spam fest! Thought you'd like to know I also like how this thread has had triple the amount of attention and posts than your L safariwagon's has... Cheers Bennie

I can't thank you enough mate! I'm really going to soil my pants next time a roo jumps out in front of Ruby Scoo! I'd love to have a conversation with that grille - what a journey! I'm looking forward to posting those side indicators to you! Cheers Bennie

Why not swap out the dead frame and replace it? A 4wd one will fit in it's place if 2wd units are hard to come by, just use your swing arms and replace the frame that's damaged. Got any photos to help show the damage, I hope I've got it right from your description. And I'm unfamiliar with the word: melanomaed... Cheers Bennie

Don't worry, I was of the same opinion until I tried to fit the front hub to the rear end for rear discs. I was shattered. If this was to work, I'd have rear discs on all my EA subarus that are "in my life". Cheers Bennie

Me too when I used to run the welded rear end. Much easier than swapping the drum every time! Cheers Bennie

I wish we could get away with stuff like this in Australia! Too much bloody red tape and requirements for engineering to satisfy insurance, highway patrol and road worthy requirements As it is I'm lucky to have flown under the radar with Ruby Scoo so far. Hopefully it stays this way for a long time to come! Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Sorry but this is incorrect and misleading! Rear disc hubs are DIFFERENT to front hubs. The ONLY difference is the shaft size, the rears are smaller than the front, thus the rear hub will not fit the front. If you need a front hub, get a front hub; if you need a rear hub, get a rear hub. Simple. Totally agree with both statements. Cheers Bennie

I'm one of those people that will put the time and effort in to a vehicle if I'm asking myself the same questions AND it's been good to me/I've got an attachment to it. Also if it's getting hard to find I tend to try and keep them on the road - and the old vortex's were hard to find even a few years after they came out from the factory over here. Personally I'd say keep the XT on the road - you might kick yourself if you let it go to scrap. I'm sure your water damage couldn't be any worse than this: Then I got a bucket load of mud out - it was the worst water I've ever been in, full of silt that fills every crack and crevice! All the best with it - I vote keep the ol' girl alive Cheers Bennie

I was wonder how long it would be until I ran into you over here Subactive. Good to see you're adding to the conversation over here too... Cheers Bennie

Numbchux, why don't you want a helical front LSD? This is the option I've gone for - two reasons: 1) no need to split gearbox to tweak like a clutch pack LSD over time and 2) it was cheap enough to add it in while the box was apart (OBX LSD) - I'd be kicking my self if I didn't do it... I'm guessing this is going into a brat or MY of some sort as there's no off the shelf drive shafts with the 25 spline count - which to me is the reason why you want to steer clear of the 25 spline count out put shafts of the diff. Personally I'd be going for low gearing over the LSD, but that's just me. Cheers Bennie

I've done the same as Toonga since doing all the body work to Ruby Scoo: This is done with an L series :-P And my lid still fits on - held with some cable ties that I can slip over the top of the brown lid to hold it on as the hinge is broken. Cheers Bennie

New pads (decent set, no cheapies); new rotors, braided flexi lines and fresh fluid is a great way to go. I've done this with my L series running 27's and it brakes better than a 300k km L series on stock brakes and tyres... Cheers Bennie

No need to do this - all the 4wd engaging parts are inside the gearbox and are oiled every time you drive your vehicle regardless of 2wd or 4wd modes. Cheers Bennie

I've never seen that period! Makes me want one (as well as an EA81S)!! Cheers Bennie