el_freddo

I wouldn't mind having a set of those heads sent in my direction Looking good there mate - those engines, dubbed or named an EA81S are super rare over here. Apparently they love to rev and go hard in general too. Look after it Cheers Bennie

This is what I've heard and worked with too. The rear discs on the L series is a simple swap of the hardware from drums to discs. Yeah I don't know Toonga about our brumbys and a proportioning valve. But I've seen many forum members swap to rear discs on the MYs and brumbys without a rear lock up issue. Time to go look at Sunnie the Brumby (who's still living at mine ) Cheers Bennie

A pleasure mate! I'll be finding out what the cost of postage is tomorrow after work - hopefully it's not one of those days that end with a fried brain Do you mean the same as the one's I've organised for you? I could have got another light like those ones if I knew you wanted it! I think those part numbers are the standard replacement units - no lift. I've still got the front set in mine, the rears I ditched for a set of honda front springs, much better lift and load carrying ability. I'm now looking into adding auxiliary air bags as well, take some stress off the spring seat, maybe I'm carrying too much :-\ Anyway, that's the plan! I'm looking forward to sending these off and seeing them arrive at your end Cheers Bennie

You're not thinking out side the box - as we all need to do with our subarus to get what we want! I was thinking that you could make up something that covers the rear of the canopy and the tail gate when both are open. This would give you an extra foot of length easy and it'll keep the weather out at the same time if you've made it properly. How do you go with condensation build up over night? My thoughts are that it would be dripping wet in there! I would have thought that the rear wall was there for strength as well as stopping what ever you've got out back joining you in the front in the event of a crash. May be a foldable roller door could be the trick - still keeps the wall and window in there, yet folds up so you can warm the rear section/access the rear easily. When it's down you could have it latch in place to lock it in - this would also add some strength to torsional forces but probably wouldn't hold up well in a crash unless you had some great fabrication skills and good latches as well. I got the same one installed on my L series. It doesn't matter if you're carb'd EFI or diesel. All you need is vacuum, power and sort out locations for the cruise control's throttle cable, speed sensor, control pad and where the vacuum actuator will be located. It's simple to install. Before you try using it make sure it's calibrated properly as I took off all excited and it didn't work - then I read the instructions and did the calibration etc and it's worked a treat since. Makes long distance driving piss easy now. Here's a link to my setup. I'm now getting a very small surging, it's either the magnets have moved since sand 4wd'n or the sensitivity is set too high with all the gear loaded up in the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Personal opinion of mine: If I can put in a little more effort in an area that will allow me to buy off the shelf replacement products then I will go to that effort. When it's drive shafts we're talking about, they come into this category for me. Cheers Bennie

What you'll find is that Mr Fuji swapped the speedo drive gear in the gearbox and that the outback instrument cluster is calibrated the same. What you could look into is a pulse modulator that modifies the signal from the reed switch at the gearbox. I'm 99% sure your subi doesn't have a speedo cable, which means it's all electronic and easier to play with Unfortunately I don't know of a kit that does the job as I've not had the need to ever do this so far - I've only heard about it on the forums. Hope this helps Cheers Bennie

And I'd recommend getting tired of the FWD. 4wd is a blast in the snow Cheers Bennie

Best of luck with the future endeavours of SJR - it much be a great feeling to be going out on something that started out to help subi owners get the bits they need! You're probably also kacking your dacks too - which means you're doing things right Further to this, I've been looking at a 3 inch snorkel that runs down below the top edge of the RHS guard (fender) to just behind the side indicator light where it would then pass into the inside of the guard. From here a pipe would be needed to plumb it down behind the light assembly/wall and past/behind the window washer water bottle then up to the EFI air box, either through the bottom of it or using the factory hole - enlarged of course! A water catch box could be incorporated into the system too. This is my plan anyway! Yes, once again all the best with it! Regards Bennie

I need to get me a brumby/brat. I've always wanted a targa top to the point that I've convinced my mother in law to get one Cheers Bennie

Again good stuff mate! I can't wait to see this thing once it's done. Going to replace the original graphics too? I'm guessing you will otherwise what's the point of buying one of these specifically? Keep the pics rolling! Cheers Bennie

Another way to get the extra length is to make a "ute swag" for your BRAT and it's canopy. Here's the general idea from this mob I saw a few years back at the Deni ute muster: From here: http://www.uteswags.com.au/Ute_Swags/Home.html Brilliant idea I reckon! I agree with the dual battery setup! They work a treat if you put the time and effort into a decent setup. You could even run an electric blanket with an inverter then, but the inverter would have to be a big one I'd imagine for the electric blanket! The other thing is to look into how they heat the campers in Canada - I know my sister's camper she had over there had some sort of heater setup that was independent to the car's battery system. Probably ran on gas some how. I know some of these ideas probably won't work for you as you'll be on a budget, but for the sake of sharing ideas I've added them in here anyway Cheers Bennie

That's the theory. But then the engine could be working outside it's "power vs efficiency" zone. You might be lucky and the engine will handle the required power fine and return you some good economy. But if you're cruising with the throttle open further than what you used to do with the stock sized tyres then you're using more fuel over all, even if your revs have dropped by 500rpm (big difference!) Cheers Bennie

Numbchux I'm loving your work! And I'm jealous that you're playing with gearboxes and I'm not at the moment (I'm trying to source a few bits for my build). The clearance issue you're having with the LSD and the side gears on the low range: how badly are the fouling eachother? The gearbox I've had built we shaved the same area including bolt heads to clear these gears. The amount taken off doesn't impact on the integrity of the bolts or the LSD in general. I'll be keen to hear what revs you'll be doing at cruising speed - and can you match a speedo drive gear to show true speed on the dash/instrument cluster? And I have to ask - what's the plan for the RX FT4wd R&P gears and the centre diff? I'm chasing one (or two, or three :twisted: ) for my build - the unit I've got has been flogged within a thou of it's life, that's all. Cheers Bennie

I've got mine mounted on the steering column like the MPFI touring wagons do. No fancy brackets, just some large cable ties doubled up on eachother, pulled nice and tight so it doesn't move and you're sorted: The fuse box above the ECU is for 24/7 power, ignition, fuel pump power and the starter circuit. Time to check out your pics Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate, been on here a while now (can't edit the first post to change the title) - been doing more reading than posting - I find it hard to keep up with the number of posts that can occur in one evening! Plus I've got several other subi forums that I've been on longer than here... Hence the reason for the rebuild work - I saw this as the cheaper option than sourcing another L series and going through the rego purpose, plus I'll be able to use the rotisserie again - I couldn't let her go just yet, it's not her time... At the moment it's pretty easy, as for their condition it can be hit and miss. Best bet would be to hit up the aussie forums and see what you can get from there - at least there will be support. Planning on packing some EJ dualrange gearboxes for the trip home?? At Pick-a-part style wrecking yards these tend to go for about $200 to $250 each regardless of the model of vehicle they come from. Could be a good "investment" if you can work out how to get it back to the US easily and cheaply. I'm actually after the RXII coupe's dual range with the locking centre diff. Specifically I'm after the centre diff and housing - the one I'm building turns out to be stuffed :-\ This diff is all that's holding me back from putting the icing on the cake with Ruby Scoo. Details of the build: 4.11 cut and shut pinion shaft gearset, L series good low range 1.59:1 and front mechanical LSD. This should round off Ruby Scoo very well. These gearboxes are like hen's teeth over here Cheers Bennie

That's because, well - for me, I'm too busy driving and having fun to take pics! These were taken by a mate ages ago: ^ This little fella is no longer :-\ I hope this helps lift the "flat ground" photos! Also, these pics were taken from the Otway NP and Aire River area in Victoria, Aust. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... I wonder if I might find one of these in the yards over here. Awesome find. Now to go hunting Cheers Bennie

Yeah they do! I reckon the L series should have come from the factory EJ'd! My only concern with your conversion is the ECU in the floor. Trust me, if you're out wheeling like I am with the EJ, expect this to happen at least once: I was VERY glad that I mounted my ECU and immobiliser up under the dash board - it gets tight but in this situation I was still able to drive home, even with a wet air filter... Cleaning up is not fun. I don't wish for this to happen to anyone - I'm just sharing my concern. ECUs in the floor of an offroader is just asking for trouble in my book! Other than that, top effort on your conversion, the wiring from what I've seen on here looks very neat and factory like! Got any more pics with more engine bay pics of your wiring efforts? Cheers Bennie

Well this is what I got up to last summer - from mid november 2011 until the end of april 2012: All of the above to fix this issue: Going back together: A great feeling when it's back in one piece, but it all takes time and patience and I guess some will as well! Re-routing some wiring: ^ In one way I kind of wish I didn't do this, but in another I wish I went further with it and tidied up the "knuckle" that I ended up with in the cut down... I've now got to go back and find my tacho wire in this mess (that's "neatly" tucked up under the dash) so that I can watch my engine revs again. All back together and almost "on top of the world" near Mt Hotham: Out and about: Site of Australia's first airplane flight: Victorian High Country in May: ^ Ruby Scoo is sitting level in this pic Mt Hotham two days after the trip above; at the Arlberg Hotel were I was night manager last year - very fond memories of that place! Mt Cole: Mt Cole with Tweety (EA81'd trike - now supercharged!) and Dulagarl (the H6 dual range foz) Wimmera River and Wyperfled NP trip with the H6's: The "new" touring storage system - still under construction and probably will be for a number of years! ^ A number of improvements yet to come. This was built over two days before the trip with scrap steel. It works well for what it is, even though it doesn't look pretty or organised it was enough to make life easier for us out bush. And the last one for now to finish off this post: Wyperfeld NP kitted out for touring: I often forget how much work and effort I've put into this vehicle. While it's old an beaten (not too badly) she still goes very well and does what I ask of her. It's great to have done all that work and occasionally realise that you did it and remember those times when it all seemed too much yet ploughing on was the only way to get it done. Many things learnt and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again! Cheers Bennie

My thoughts too. If these were out in Oz, I'd have one for sure - maybe even two, one for street, one for offroad Keen to see how this turns out. These coupes have ALL the good bits except for the XT6 5 stud gear! And I want that gearbox too Cheers Bennie

And may I ask where's the fun in that? DIY of course - no use having someone else work on your car for your hard earned! I know over here all the MY's (as we call them) have the two notches in the dash board for the AC button. Seriously though, how hard is it to wire in a different switch and label it "AC"?? RallyAlex, if you do get a complete AC "kit" or find a donor vehicle you'll also need the crank pulley, alternator and AC compressor pump bracket as well as all the associated wiring - including the relays on your passenger's side strut tower, also you'll need the glove box and the exchange box under the dash. I've done this conversion/addition to my mum inlaw's brumby (brat) - it was simple plug and play, you just need all the bits, make sure all the plumbing is sealed properly and off you go. Having a donor vehicle I also added power steering while I was at it - that transformed the feeling of the vehicle, much more nimble with the PS! Cheers Bennie

I'll add to what Loyal 2.7 Turbo has said above: My educated guess would point to the radiator being blocked by 50% or more. I've seen and experienced EA82s over heat due to a blocked radiator that's only had a back flush ever done to it. Have it checked out for corrosion, if any is present get a new radiator! If it's all good remove the end tank, get a piece of small steel or wire and clean out each individual channel in the radiator. Over here we call this "rodding the radiator" - the mechanical action will un block a radiator much better than a back flush will! Then replace the end tank - I've seen a mate use a set of rachet tie down straps to get a real good bit of pressure squeezing the whole radiator together so he got a good seal on the end tank he had removed. A new radiator also gives you the piece of mind that it'll be doing what it does the best it possibly can. If you continue to have over heating issues from here it'd point to a head gasket Cheers Bennie

Not on the golden lap that's for sure! Cheers Bennie

From our last trip. Ruby Scoo is the only EJ present for this one. The other two are H6's: This is the Wimmera River - we followed it from it's head waters to it's terminal lakes. In the last year or two it's had some major floods - you can see debris in the trees in the mid left of the image - that's at 5 or 6 metres! I think it peaked in some areas at 9 metres!! Floodway crossing on the Wimmera River: This is un edited (as are all of my pics, except the obviously cropped ones), the morning after the night of storms: One of the "wet weather only" roads that we've been hanging out to traverse: ^ Last time we were in this area it was sunny and 46 degrees C! It was a good change (~15 degrees C day time and below 12 at night) My Sydney Opera house "tribute". Mallee rains with a setting sun behind it. This area is usually very arid! Ruby Scoo the poser: Awesome trip, wish I was out there much much more often and for a longer period next time. This trip was 6 days in length, but the first was wasted in travelling to the meet point (and the usual final organisational stuff!). Cheers Bennie

From what I've read fellas over there have been bolting SPFI intakes to EA81's so I'd say that the carb head intake is the same as the SPFI heads. I'd love one of these systems to run on an EA81 - that'd make for a sweet setup in my book! Cheers Bennie