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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. This is how I've done mine - stock EA oil warning light sender on one end and aftermarket mechanical gauge on the other. It all fits under my alternator. To fit your pressure sender unit which is much larger, I've seen it done with a line extension to an area where it's easy to access and clear of any other objects. Worked a treat for them. Cheers Bennie
  2. Very remote is a good case, basically you just CAN'T get them anymore! Last time I heard, ARB were no longer producing the R180 air locker. I could be wrong though; also this is the Australian side of the ARB mob. It's funny how many go nuts about the centre diff lock - the stock EA 5spd gearbox has exactly the same thing for offroading, just that it doesn't have the centre diff for the AWD onroad handling. Your 4 spd box will do the same thing once you've selected 4wd I hope this makes sense. I thought this was an auto locker - where it locks once one wheel has lost traction yet allows a wheel to unlock when cornering (until you give it to it and spin the inside wheel). An air locker is a manual locker where the user decides when to lock it. The air part is simply the mechanism that locks the diff, via an air actuated piston of some description. You can also set them up as a vacuum or cable operated locker too - it all depends on how the locker was designed. Cheers Bennie
  3. How's this all coming together Mark? That wiring looks pretty neat to me! I've seen much worse than that! Did you run the EJ's harness without removing the dashboard, if so, top effort! Cheers Bennie
  4. Awesome. Thought about using the front stubs from the EA gearbox as a template? These clip in like so: The carb boxes are 23 spline, same as the rear, but I'm unsure about the difference in diametre of these stubs in the diff housing/oil seal. It sounds good though, some stronger stubs would be awesome, hope it doesn't then break something harder to replace further along the line Cheers Bennie
  5. You can hook up an after market gauge by using a T piece to add the extra sender into the system. This is what I've done with my EJ: This can easily be done on the EA82 as well. You can even make it a "remote" T piece where you move it away from that low position on the front of the EA82. You use some copper pipe or a flexible hose. This little oil gauge in the cab is great to know what's going on in your engine. Cheers Bennie PS: ignore all the oil on the block, I took this photo after fixing a blown pressure gauge hose!
  6. Have you got a multi meter? What you need to establish is that the fusible links box has power to it, there's usually a cable from the positive side of the battery to the box to provide power. Also pull out and check all the fusible links if you haven't done so already, sometimes while they look good they're fried, moving them will tell you if they're good or not. Are there any other mods that have been done to this vehicle? Probably a question I should have asked earlier. Cheers Bennie
  7. What's that black box for? The electric window box, the one I've been talking about should mount behind the kick panel. I can't remember how the MY's do it but the L series is designed with the kick panel free of the bonnet release handle bracket... Cheers Bennie
  8. This black box mounts above the bonnet (hood) cable lever, it uses the same mouting bolts - at least it does in the aussie delivered subi's... I hope this makes sense! Cheers Bennie
  9. Nah They've usually just got a number on each item - crown and pinion gears - that should match, this shows that they're a matching item as you're not supposed to change just the crown or pinion gears, they should always be moved as a set. Mine had "30" engraved on both the crown and pinion gears, it can be hard to see. Cheers Bennie
  10. Why hasn't anyone tried spinning the passenger's cam 180 deg and replacing the belt to see what happens? I'm 99% sure that the EJ subarus are still a batch fire setup so the EFI system should be able to do it, the knock sensor might have a hissy fit though. I don't think custom cams are going to change much, you're going to end up with 1&2 firing then 3&4 firing one after the other, then the exhausting, sucking, squeezing without any power. I can see how the V8s can get away with it, they're essentially running as a 4 cylinder with 4 bang events that can be spread out enough to match the 4th event in the cycle evenly to the 1st for a continuous spread for power strokes. You'd probably have to look into a custom crank that would have all 4 pistons hitting TDC at the same time to achieve the double explosions at opposite ends of the cycle to make it a regular beat - there'd be one explosion per revolution, instead of the current 2 explosions per revolution. If I've got this very wrong, flame away, I'm happy to stand corrected, but this is how my mind is thinking at the moment. It'd be a bit of fun to see what would happen, but a lot of work just for some ************s and giggles. Cheers Bennie
  11. Cheap subarus usually turn into a beast, I've got one of them too. I'm now at the point of buying things like rims and building gearboxes that I've paid well over double of what I paid for the subaru in the first place :twisted: But I wouldn't have it any other way. Yellow lenses in the snow for the win - otherwise you can't see crap in the thick fog! I've done the same in the snow here one year, except I was cheap and used cellophane to cover my lights. Worked a treat! Cheers Bennie
  12. Awesome printer! Where can I get one/get bits to make one?? Loads of potential there! Cheers Bennie
  13. Or when you're "old enough" I could buy Tweety from you :twisted: This is a common conversion from EFI to the old school carb & dizzy setup... Cheers Bennie
  14. So to clarify, auto locker (unlocker techicnally)? From my reading of this thread I'm under the impression this is an auto unlocker setup over a manual locker - air, cable whatever. Am I on the right path here? Cheers Bennie
  15. Nah you've got that wrong mate - my steering wheel is one the RIGHT side The rotisserie is awesome, but I found out last night when finally wiping the inside of the windscreen clean that you need to cover the windscreen from the inside when you're welding upside down - I've got a pot load of little welding spots in the glass at the top of the windscreen that catch on what ever you use to clean the windscreen with. That's my tip. Rotisseries are awesome though if you're prepared to go the whole hog and to what's required to gut and reassemble your vehicle. Cheers Bennie
  16. I would say, from talking to Tweety and hearing of a fella in South Oz that's dropped an EJ in his trike that the EJ is too powerful. This fella can't get it engineered (a requirement in oz) after all his time and effort. Another thing to consider with the trike is that the engine generally needs to complement the look of the trike, this means a clean and untidy engine with a small bit of bling added. I've had the pleasure of riding/driving this superb machine, it goes very well with the NA EA81! You won't be disappointed, Tweety wasn't! Cheers Bennie
  17. With your 4wd lever you'll need to do a cut and shut. I removed the lever from my subi (L series - Ruby Scoo ), cut the tab the mounts to the lever the the cab and re-weld it sitting further forward. I guessed for my application - 3 inch lift with 2 inches on the gearbox crossmember, no lift on the gear shifter. From memory I re-welded mine 5mm forward, this lifted my 4wd lever off the centre console and allows me to easily disengage 4wd now. I should have done it ages ago. Cheers Bennie
  18. Are you going to put some slots or holes in the plate to allow some air flow into the radiator, or you're getting enough air in there even with the plate in place? Cheers Bennie
  19. I might as well add my simple yet effective setup as well: Cheers Bennie
  20. ^ If I didn't know any better, I would have said it was photoshopped! Ruby Scoo, pretty much the same as in the lifted rigs thread, but she's had some work to sort some issues that "flying" created. This was January 2012: ^ Hopefully the ONLY time she'll see this angle. In action, Victorian high country creek crossing: ^ A snorkel is high on the list for the next mods! How I found her Friday morning at Mt Hotham: Cheers Bennie
  21. There's something about the XT6 that intrigues me... probably because we didn't get them in over here! Glad to see that it didn't get parted out. Cheers Bennie
  22. Awesome effort there TheLoyale! If this was in oz, A) it'd seem a little out of place with those retro decals and I doubt anyone would put this amount of time into it. I'm surprised how well the interior's held up, and in blue is different. I also like the instrument cluster, I've never seen one like that before Great to see all the work you've put in it so far, I can't wait to see the end result. Respray and fresh decals in the list of things to do as well? Something inside me wishes you kept it all original for preservation reasons, but I realise that this isn't always possible, plus it's not mine to do this with anyway, I guess that's just me though Cheers Bennie
  23. This morning I had to scrape some ice off the windscreen to be able to start the car so we could use it after it had warmed up: Got a good drop of snow today between our 400km round trip off mountain. It's 3 weeks until the official season opening but it's awesome to see this amount of snow falling already It's at Mt Hotham, Victoria, Australia. I'm sure all the ski resorts are getting some good snow at the moment. Cheers Bennie
  24. This is always fun too! Glad to hear you got the wiring sorted! Cheers Bennie
  25. You'd actually need two pairs Yep. I got mine from fleabay. There was another set on there recently. Maybe if they're re-listed and your super keen the seller might look into international postage. I know it's easier to post items from the US than it is to post them TO the US. It sucks! Otherwise I could see me sending some EJ dual range boxes over there before they're crushed. Cheers Bennie
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