el_freddo

No worries - I've had them sitting there waiting an answer from another fella who had done the same thing but with a 180ohm resistor, I had asked the same question... That ECU's fan control - which wire is it? I'd like the ECU to control the fans when it wants to. I've got the wiring labelled for AC relay fan etc, is this the wire and is it earth switched (meaning needs accessories power on other side of relay trigger) or will it be a powered wire when switched on? Looking forward to doing this simple mod! Cheers Bennie

I'm at about 5000 feet (~1800m) above sea level and have not noticed a change in the performance of the EJ22. The ECU should effectively reduce the amount of fuel used as the oxygen content reduces - it's can't be that much as I've not noticed anything by my "seat of the pants" dyno. Cheers Bennie

Does this mean it's wired in like which one of these: A) C) I'm thinking it's either a or c... And what exactly is a Potentiometer, and where can one find this device? I'm keen to do the same on my EJ converted L series. Cheers Bennie

Agree with that! It's like judging a book by its cover - an engine's health is not told by what it looks like on the outside rather it is the gear inside that needs inspection or an up to date log book to make a judgement from... I'm keen to know about these interference engines from '95 - are these the SOHC units or just the DOHC ones? I know the DOHC doesn't hit the pistons rather its the inlet and exhaust valves that hit eachother when the cam belt snaps and each cam freewheels independently of the other one on the same bank resulting in a bent or broken valve that can then interfere with top of the piston. I've not had a lot of experience of the later models but the ones from the 90's seem very good and still stand up to the test of time if looked after - this includes the interior. The 2010 outback is pretty solid but is also a very large vehicle for a subaru IMO - they've lost that medium/large car appeal that I loved so much! Cheers Bennie

Mate that subi must have had some baaaddddd karma!! That's bullshlt!! And to think that someone had the nerve to do a hit and run!! All the best with the loyal - everything other than what you've said about the fuel system will be plug and play Bennie

Have you pulled this globe to make sure it's working or can you see it light up with the ignition in the "ON" position before you start the car? Cheers Bennie

^ Plus on top of what GD has said you also need to work out a way to safely disengage the steering lock - you don't want that to engage halfway around a corner!! Cheers Bennie

Like I've said previously - you can leave the EA81 intake as it is and just wire the carb's solenoids to your current wiring to make it all work. Just bring the emissions gear that came with the EA81 over with it or nut out the EA82 system and connect it to the EA81... It really is a simple conversion that would be worth doing if it is cheaper for you than to get and fix another EA82. Cheers Bennie

Not if you want to retain the centre diff locking mechanism! The EA AWD pinion shaft is longer than that of the EJ's pinion shaft. This is because subaru designed the centre diff on the EA to drive the front wheels from the back of the centre diff and the rear wheels from the front where the drop gears match up. On the EJ they swapped this around, dropped the locking mechanism and incorporated an LSD on one side of the diff instead. Thus the two different sized pinion shafts between the gearboxes. But as Numbchux says - if you have an EJ diff ratio you desire and the RX FT4wd gearbox you can use the gearsets and casings with the EJ crown wheel, pinion shaft and EJ centre diff + matching housing. Cheers Bennie

The other thing that could have happened is that if you've really forced it you could have bent the selector lever - I've alway disengaged 4wd on the fly - just gently lean on the lever and wait till it pops out, sometimes with a bang when the tension in the system is released! Not always fun but on the rare occasion (for me) it is difficult to disengage 4wd this is what I do ^ Cheers Bennie

Hehehe... I've had the same thoughts about this light setup guyph! Did you use a set from the US or a set off an MY over here?? Wiring it wouldn't be hard mate - a set of relays to trigger high or low beam referenced from the original wiring would be the go. You should be able to work that out and if no ask one of the fellas about "the relay headlight upgrade" and just add a 3rd relay to each side for the high beam on the extra light Cheers Bennie

Also make sure the head's mating surface is flat - if not have them shaved a little to ensure they are. If re-installed with warped heads the head gaskets will not last long! Cheers Bennie

Not necessarily true. The low range lever can still be mounted in the cab with the gearselector and not be connected to the gearbox for gear changing purposes - it is part of the gear selector setup, while this setup is bolted to the back of the gearbox for stability and connected to the gearbox's selector shaft, the 4wd high/4wd low selector lever can be tied off safely from harms way - thus a single range 4wd gearbox can be installed in an originally factory dual range fitted L series with the two levers still present. This is what I was trying to get at... Good to hear you've got a choice SmashedGlass - always a good position to be in Cheers Bennie

G'day Chad. It's winter down here at the moment. I'm working and living in the snow at Mt Hotham - although it's starting to suck as we've not had any proper snow in 3 weeks after an awesome start to the season! It's currently 3 degrees C which is considered shorts and T shirt weather if the wind would drop. As for your question about the engine mounting. It will bolt straight in. You can leave the original intake and carb of the EA81, I only said about the intake swap to get the larger carb and pretty much the same performance that the EA82 had from factory. The EA82 had a bigger carbie from factory that won't bolt on the EA intake unless you do some modifications. The conversion is considered very easy. As I've said you'd just need to have the flywheel machined, do a tiny bit of wiring and it should all fire up without an issue. As for dropping it in the VW it will be a bit more work and will need an adaptor plate and flywheel. Why not drop an even better powerplant in there such as an EJ22?? That would have your bug going off its tits! Cheers Bennie

The other way to make sure the gearbox is actually a dual range under the bonnet is to make sure there's the little lever above the front diff on your passenger's side - it should have a rod attached to it that disappears into the trans tunnel with the rest of the gearbox. This will make certain that the gearbox IS a dual range and not a single range with all the appropriate levers in the cab for the dual range Who knows, the gearbox may have been swapped for a single range just to keep the owner going - stranger things have happened! Cheers Bennie

G'day starkiller! 1. I've found the factory air and oil filters to do an adequate job - replace them regularly as you should and all will be sweet. 2. You could have the radiator looked at - get it rodded. This is where they remove an end tank and push a rod down each cooling channel to clear out any of the crap that could have built up over the life of the radiator. I've heard the L's can keep going (just) on a radiator that's ~50% blocked! 3. Not that I know of. I do know that the fuel gauge acts differently to other makes - you have to get to know it! In your case the sender unit could be dead or bent for some reason... 4. We didn't get the high console centre over here but I have seen them over in the US. 6. Those places are ALWAYS your friend - until they get greedy and try to rip you off! All the best! Cheers Bennie

This is an L series GL DL etc yeah? If so the heater core will still be getting fluid regardless of the heater control setting, it is not like the MYs with a tap in the heater hose lines. Swirling under the dash - any warm air coming from anywhere under the dash? Got a funky smell in the cab or wet carpet that you can't explain? My guess is that your heater core has a crack in one of the plastic end tanks and this is opening up when it gets hot then closes again when you let it cool. I had a noise that I thought was static in my speakers that had me wondering what was going on with my stereo system - about 50km later at speed on the freeway (110km/h) there was a little pop and my legs were getting very hot and I couldn't see out the windscreen as the steam of my coolant hit cool windscreen. Not fun, they are time bombs. And they can leak a little bit that's enough to notice at the radiator end but not enough sometimes to pick up in the cab until they've either developed a larger leak or go pop. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Yeah I did the same with a set of drive shafts - they didn't have the proper CV grease in them for starters, so I replaced that after contacting the joint I got them from, mainly for their heads up about the product they were selling (a good friend/business that I don't want to see go under). ~1000km later and the outer joints started to click I've got a new set on the way as replacements, hopefully they'll last longer than the first set! All that said I've heard from several mates now that the problem with the chinese product is that they don't harden the steel properly, instead they cover the required surfaces with the hardened material that can sometimes be picked off with a screwdriver! As for a diff blowing - I've seen one destroyed in a '98 outback while street driving as a daily. Don't know why it went but it completely let go very quickly! Cheers Bennie

I've replied to your other thread that I presume you started after this post. Best way to find out about things is to do a search first then ask if you don't find what you're looking for. There are some interesting bits of info you'll find as you search for your answer Cheers Bennie

Awesome pics! I can't wait to get a good DSLR... Just saving now! You guys missed out on the EA81 sedan, the US the EA81 touring wagon (in areas from what I understand) - In Australia we missed out on the EA81 hatch and the EA82 coupe - I would love to do up one of those EA82 coupes! And we missed the Baja completely, I don't even think there's a country we can legally import them from! Again, love the pics, starting to get the travel bug but would like to bring my subi with me... too many $$$$$ to do all of that though Keep the pics coming! Cheers Bennie

I would also say that the factory gauges aren't the greatest for giving an accurate reading - but they're good to look at and give you an idea of what's happening under the bonnet. An aftermarket set of gauges would be much more accurate than what the factory instrument cluster displays and will give you a clearer understanding of what's happening with your engine. Cheers Bennie

Found it again: From this thread Cheers Bennie

Yeah... umm... it's an EA82. They will tick when THEY want to! I had all lifters tick for two weeks after I picked up an EJ for a conversion that ended up being the catalyst for the EJ22 that's now in Ruby Scoo. Drove me nuts! The other issue with these lifters that I think everyone tends to over look is the spring inside them - if this spring fatigues or breaks you won't have the correct pre-load before the lobe tries to eject the oil from the HVLA (hydraulic valve lash adjuster) as it operates the valve... Also if the HVLA is old or had crappy and dirty oil used in it there could be excessive wear that's occurred and thus the oil escapes easier resulting in the dreaded lifter tick. Another issue could be the oil you're using. Wear and tear plus a thinner oil will help increase lifter tick and oil leaks all round. The best solution I've found to the lifter tick so far is the EJ22 - no ************! Cheers Bennie

Mate, your 87 engine is an EA82, the one you're looking at is an EA81. The EA81 is a great little engine that is much more robust than an EA82. The EA81 doesn't have timing chains, it has timing gears. To put it bluntly, the EA81 is a VW rip off that's water cooled and made in Japan. It will work - but things like the PS pump and AC compressor will need to be nutted out as I've not done this conversion. You might want to look into putting the intake manifold from the EA82 on the EA81 so that the wiring is plug and play and that the engine should still meet any emissions requirements that are needed for your model of subi. So long as you keep the oil in it, coolant topped up this little engine is easy to maintain and will service you for a long time. There are some good power upgrades that are similar to that of the EA82 - such as the Weber carb. The flywheel will need to be machined down to fit the EA82 clutch - I just read about it and it's 0.8xx inches - GD knows it! This allows you to keep the EA81 flywheel and thus the timing marks on the flywheel that match the timing reference point on the EA81 engine part of the bellhousing. If you use an EA82 flywheel I don't think you will have any timing marks to line up when it comes to the timing of the engine. This is probably the only hardest part of this conversion Cheers Bennie

Hehehe... the differences between a LHD and RHD vehicles. In Oz, being RHD, the power steering lines bolt right in without any bending required AC - I've not got around to having custom pipes made up but it is on my to do list! Cmiller: how have you not fitted the fans behind the radiator? I've got a 3 core radiator in my L with three fans strategically placed in the room I have between that and the front of the EJ. Just a little imagination! Cheers Bennie