el_freddo

Looking awesome Idasho! Should do the job VERY well. You should be pleased thus far! I can't wait to see it completed and painted I still don't think you need the blue paint as you won't be welding the sides or lid - unless I've missed something in your design... Cheers Bennie

Are the XT6's a wider track width compared to an L series? I'm wondering that because they went to the 5 stud, did they also go to the effort of making the track width the same as the Liberty? If so how did they achieve this - something must have been longer... And are the wheel bearings the same all round as a regular L series. I would love to be able to check one out for myself - walk around it, look under it, take photos etc. Cheers Bennie

3 inch lift all round 27 inch tyres on 14 inch scorpion rims of correct offset. Some guard trimming on the front when I had desert rat rims. Now some rubbing at full lock on chassis rails up front, only near the firewall though. Honda civic front springs in the rear Pics: Cheers Bennie

And that's why all are so much fun outside their given conditions - except the snow tyres, they just suck outside their given conditions, particularly in the dry (wear too quickly!) And: Video will suffice if there are no pics. Even pics of the bruises (if any) your wife gave you would do the job Cheers Bennie

G'day all Since joining the forum I've been learning about many new things that we either a) don't have over here or haven't considered doing over here before. I'm looking at the option in this case as I've only just read recently about a cam regrind for the EJ22 for lower torque. This interests me as I'm always looking for better low down torque for 4wd'n. Things that I'm wanting to know from those who have done it before are: 1) How does the factory ECU (I think its a '91 model EJ22 ECU - 4 plug at ECU, 3 plug at Engine) run with these cams - are there any issues or anything I should know about? 2) Are they easy to fit when the engine is in the subi - L series in this case? I've not had to play with heads and don't really want to have to pull the engine and/or the heads 3) Are they worth the effort and how does your EJ22 now handle on the freeway/highway at 60/70mph? 4) Is there a particular grind that delta cams work with or can I go into a shop over here in Oz and get them to do the work here for me? 5) Has you're fuel consumption increased/decreased? Any other information from those who have done this would be appreciated. Cheers Bennie

Ok, a bit late on the up take of this thread - just read it all. Part of the reason for keeping your original front diff centre when changing the diff ratio (meaning the ring and pinion gears) is that you don't have to screw around with the carrier bearing loads. Plus if you've got a front LSD you'd want to retain it. There are torsen units available on ebay for ~$400 which d_generate I think is running in the front of his dual range WRX offroader Totally agree. Here's a pic of the pinion shaft with two lower gearsets on the bench in the background. We were swapping the lower gearset in this case to replace a dead 1st gear that had a chipped tooth - easier to replace the gearsets than press off/on one gear! If you were to individually select each gear ratio 1st to 5th you would have to really do your math and research. The idea of running 27's then changing your diff ratio is to use the final drive (diff) of 4.11 to offset the change in gearing from the oversized 27 inch tyres. This will effectively pull your gearing back to stock when running the 27's. While EA's were less powerful the gearbox strength and design basically remained the same. You can use EA forward gear ratios (1st to 5th) but you need to press them off the pinion shaft first, then press them onto the lower gearset "tube" of the AWD gearbox. Really not worth it. The way you have done the diff ratio change with your original gearsets is the way to go in my opinion. This is what I will be doing with my gearbox build. When you get the dual range EJ gearbox you will need to shave the crown wheel a little bit to allow clearance between the L series low range gearing and the crown wheel, otherwise it won't work. The factory dual range 4.11 ratio forester gearboxes from the EJ20 line up work because the low range isn't as low as the L's 1.59:1 reduction. I think the factory foz dual range (2L only) is 1.44:1 meaning smaller gears to allow for the larger 4.11 crown wheel on the diff. Another thing I was going to add - the diff output shaft can be changed to the desired spline count when the gearbox is open for surgery - you just need to remove this circlip, pull the output stub and replace the desired output stub. There are two spline counts that I know of - 23 and 25. 25 being the most common on the EJ series at least over here all AWD gearboxes are 25 spline output. Here's a pic of the circlip: If anyone is really desperate for AWD dual range in your EJ subi you can make them with an L series PT gearbox, EJ AWD gearbox, a press, time, blood sweat and tears and the EJ/EA adaptor. If anyone wants to hear more on this theory let me know and I'll write it up Guyph on ausubi (and here occasionally) is building an EJ DR AWD with the DCCD centre for offroading. He's been canned by a few people who say that the user manual says that it is not designed for full lock for offroading - but with that said I don't think the majority of our vehicles were envisioned to be offroading the way we do. Either way it should be a good project, I'll be keen to see the results anyway. Cost of the DCCD? Well that depends if you're in the right place at the right time... Cheers Bennie

Yep, I've used the front springs from a honda civic ~'91 model. Works a treat and wish I knew about it 5 years ago!! Cheers Bennie

And it will only be the underside anyway - just rust proof and no one will be any the wiser about what's lurking under it without a closet inspection I say keep it blue - that's what the EA81 air filter is meant to be... Cheers Bennie

This is the cam gear that requires us to turn the piston to get it to retract. If you've been turning it for ages it means there's some crap in there that shouldn't be there. Anyway, the pic: Cheers Bennie

Get used to that! Mine stripped out all the time until I had all studs held with helicoils... Not fun. EJ solved that problem as well Is the cruise factory or aftermarket? We didn't get cruise in our L's over here I've fitted an after market unit and its great. Hope you get another job sorted! Cheers Bennie

Thanks Miles! Looks like I'll be making some adjustable units then. Cheers Bennie

Here's a pic to follow on from what capn r said: Gearset in order of appearance: 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, reverse, 1st, diff and low range gearing above the diff on the input shaft. As mentioned, you can see the low range gearing on the input shaft. Out the back on the opposite end of the pinion shaft from the diff is the gear that is part of the rear drive, the locking mechanism isn't in this photo as it's all in the rear housing - and very complicated too. If you don't have dual range, definitely drop it in, even an old EA82 will feel like its pulling like a tractor when in low range compared to high range Cheers Bennie

That is correct about the open centre diff when not locked. It should be alright I reckon - at the very least it has to be an improvement over the full time 2wd situation. In the snow I would probably lock the centre anyway as we usually drive in 4wd when the road conditions are icy. No salt over here I'm not sure if you've contacted sunspares yet. I asked them on your behalf as I was enquiring about a set of foz seats with the gucci arm rest for Ruby Scoo. The answer they gave about shipping OS was that they simply don't do it. I don't think it would be worth purchasing one, sending it across australia to then have me send it in your direction. I can easily get you a stock DR gearbox or two from either a Gen 1 (3.9 I think) or Gen 2 (occasionally show up in yards and I'm pretty sure these are 3.7 diff ratios). The trick would be working out how to send it to you as I've never done it before. And it would have to wait until near the end of the year as I can't do much from the top of the mountain - it's pretty much a remote part of Australia when it comes to organising what are usually simple things! We get mail twice a week!! As said, you'll have to do the rest of the build from your end - the hardest part for you is getting the EJ dual range casings. You'll need a 4.11 foz box and an L series box for the good low range. Then some fun with a grinder on the crown wheel. More can be read about that here. Some things will be different for you but this will be a great guide to help you get started. Cheers Bennie

Looking good there mate! Will look very neat once you're done! Can't wait to see the end product. Cheers Bennie

Sweet looking subi! All stock other than tyre size? I too like the look of those rifles. I bet they're fully auto too... We don't/arn't "allowed" to have them anymore thanks to a fella called Martin Bryant who went on a massacre in the mid nineties. Anti gun groups snapped up the opportunity to have the government collect and crush many fully auto and semi auto rifles, pump actions etc. We really are becoming the nanny country if we're not already there! Sorry for the off topic! Nice subi again, I like the black on white features, well done on that one! Cheers Bennie

Enlarging the Ball joint mounting hole where the shaft part of the ball joint mounts in the control arm. If you enlarge this to fit the EJ size ball joint the front end brake conversion is pretty much done with the exception of the drive shaft. Cheers Bennie

It amazes me how much pride/effort/time you guys have in your subi's - even when they're covered in rust! I feel ashamed how we think of rust over here! And I know I could never get Ruby looking this good, I'm usually too busy driving her/keeping parts in working order/4wd'n her etc to have done body/spray work. Great effort, my hat goes off to you and many more that do the same with their subi's!! I could never get Ruby Scoo to win/enter an competition with any hope of being in the running for anything... Cheers Bennie

I don't know when that anniversary is - but Ruby Scoo never complains, unlike my wife does if I miss ours! Cheers Bennie

Rolled Ruby Scoo over this: ^ This is kilometres - which I think is about ~277k miles. Hopefully I'll see the very golden half million k's. I've also picked up a bonnet scoop from a vortex - idea being to reverse mount it to make vent that will help remove some heat from the engine bay easier on those hot days while slugging through deep sand That's the idea anyway. I'm thinking of making a mould from the original unit, cutting to size and making a new vent that will fit between the ridge lines on the bonnet for a better fit. Here's a pic of the unit roughly where I want to mount it: I want to make a scoop under the bonnet that will have a vent louver on it to stop air flow in the colder times of the year. This under vent will also collect water and drain it away from the engine if all goes well. Cheers Bennie

G'day 987687 Have a mate turn the steering wheel while you check out the knuckles on the end of the steering column in the engine bay. If one of these is cactus you'll need to replace it as it could be causing the binding at every half turn. Cheers Bennie

G'day all I'm new to the whole XT6 differences since we didn't get them down here in Oz. Am I correct in saying that the XT6 control/radius rods are longer than the standard L series units? If so is it about an inch/half inch? I'm asking this as I have a lift in my L series - very moderate by your standards from what I've seen on the boards! My lift is 3 inches all round except for the radius rod/gearbox crossmember plate. This has pulled my front wheels slightly towards the firewall. What I'm hoping to find is that the XT6 radius rods are longer and if this is the case I'm hoping that there is a member on here that would be willing to ship a set down under to me. If anyone knows the information to the above questions please let me know - and if you have a pair that you're willing to part with I would be most keen to hear from you. Either PM me or drop a line in here. Regards Bennie

I've often wondered the same thing... But I can't seem to get my subi to sit still enough to strip it out and find out - only because I'm enjoying what I'm doing with her now Something for the future maybe. My biggest question is how he fitted up the heaters etc. I'm pretty sure from memory that he cut out the firewall to fit the matching heater box from the dash to make it work easier... I'm pretty sure it was him anyway. That car is awesome (the red coupe) and I drooled over it for a long time watching the build. Cheers Bennie

That's ok mate - I'll just live vicariously through you That is if you don't mind... Cheers Bennie

With the water leak/spray: Check that the seal at the top of the windscreen is still good - remove the decal strip to properly inspect it - you can run without this, I've never had mine in since having it on the road which is good as you can keep the area around the windscreen clean I've got an L series that did the same to me - but it was a waterfall at an automatic car wash Turns out that there's about 20cm of rust just along the top of the windscreen... I knew it had some rust in there but wasn't expecting that. So that job is on the things to do list. Around the windscreen is where these subi's mainly rust out over here... Great thread you've got going here - I read it from start to finish the other night Cheers Bennie

Love the targa top brumbys! We never got them in black down here - biege, red/maroon, silver/blue or white I think is the whole colour range... Look after that little ute, they're very hard to find in good nic over here! Cheers Bennie