el_freddo

Thanks Miles! Looks like I'll be making some adjustable units then. Cheers Bennie

Here's a pic to follow on from what capn r said: Gearset in order of appearance: 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, reverse, 1st, diff and low range gearing above the diff on the input shaft. As mentioned, you can see the low range gearing on the input shaft. Out the back on the opposite end of the pinion shaft from the diff is the gear that is part of the rear drive, the locking mechanism isn't in this photo as it's all in the rear housing - and very complicated too. If you don't have dual range, definitely drop it in, even an old EA82 will feel like its pulling like a tractor when in low range compared to high range Cheers Bennie

That is correct about the open centre diff when not locked. It should be alright I reckon - at the very least it has to be an improvement over the full time 2wd situation. In the snow I would probably lock the centre anyway as we usually drive in 4wd when the road conditions are icy. No salt over here I'm not sure if you've contacted sunspares yet. I asked them on your behalf as I was enquiring about a set of foz seats with the gucci arm rest for Ruby Scoo. The answer they gave about shipping OS was that they simply don't do it. I don't think it would be worth purchasing one, sending it across australia to then have me send it in your direction. I can easily get you a stock DR gearbox or two from either a Gen 1 (3.9 I think) or Gen 2 (occasionally show up in yards and I'm pretty sure these are 3.7 diff ratios). The trick would be working out how to send it to you as I've never done it before. And it would have to wait until near the end of the year as I can't do much from the top of the mountain - it's pretty much a remote part of Australia when it comes to organising what are usually simple things! We get mail twice a week!! As said, you'll have to do the rest of the build from your end - the hardest part for you is getting the EJ dual range casings. You'll need a 4.11 foz box and an L series box for the good low range. Then some fun with a grinder on the crown wheel. More can be read about that here. Some things will be different for you but this will be a great guide to help you get started. Cheers Bennie

Looking good there mate! Will look very neat once you're done! Can't wait to see the end product. Cheers Bennie

Sweet looking subi! All stock other than tyre size? I too like the look of those rifles. I bet they're fully auto too... We don't/arn't "allowed" to have them anymore thanks to a fella called Martin Bryant who went on a massacre in the mid nineties. Anti gun groups snapped up the opportunity to have the government collect and crush many fully auto and semi auto rifles, pump actions etc. We really are becoming the nanny country if we're not already there! Sorry for the off topic! Nice subi again, I like the black on white features, well done on that one! Cheers Bennie

Enlarging the Ball joint mounting hole where the shaft part of the ball joint mounts in the control arm. If you enlarge this to fit the EJ size ball joint the front end brake conversion is pretty much done with the exception of the drive shaft. Cheers Bennie

It amazes me how much pride/effort/time you guys have in your subi's - even when they're covered in rust! I feel ashamed how we think of rust over here! And I know I could never get Ruby looking this good, I'm usually too busy driving her/keeping parts in working order/4wd'n her etc to have done body/spray work. Great effort, my hat goes off to you and many more that do the same with their subi's!! I could never get Ruby Scoo to win/enter an competition with any hope of being in the running for anything... Cheers Bennie

I don't know when that anniversary is - but Ruby Scoo never complains, unlike my wife does if I miss ours! Cheers Bennie

Rolled Ruby Scoo over this: ^ This is kilometres - which I think is about ~277k miles. Hopefully I'll see the very golden half million k's. I've also picked up a bonnet scoop from a vortex - idea being to reverse mount it to make vent that will help remove some heat from the engine bay easier on those hot days while slugging through deep sand That's the idea anyway. I'm thinking of making a mould from the original unit, cutting to size and making a new vent that will fit between the ridge lines on the bonnet for a better fit. Here's a pic of the unit roughly where I want to mount it: I want to make a scoop under the bonnet that will have a vent louver on it to stop air flow in the colder times of the year. This under vent will also collect water and drain it away from the engine if all goes well. Cheers Bennie

G'day 987687 Have a mate turn the steering wheel while you check out the knuckles on the end of the steering column in the engine bay. If one of these is cactus you'll need to replace it as it could be causing the binding at every half turn. Cheers Bennie

G'day all I'm new to the whole XT6 differences since we didn't get them down here in Oz. Am I correct in saying that the XT6 control/radius rods are longer than the standard L series units? If so is it about an inch/half inch? I'm asking this as I have a lift in my L series - very moderate by your standards from what I've seen on the boards! My lift is 3 inches all round except for the radius rod/gearbox crossmember plate. This has pulled my front wheels slightly towards the firewall. What I'm hoping to find is that the XT6 radius rods are longer and if this is the case I'm hoping that there is a member on here that would be willing to ship a set down under to me. If anyone knows the information to the above questions please let me know - and if you have a pair that you're willing to part with I would be most keen to hear from you. Either PM me or drop a line in here. Regards Bennie

I've often wondered the same thing... But I can't seem to get my subi to sit still enough to strip it out and find out - only because I'm enjoying what I'm doing with her now Something for the future maybe. My biggest question is how he fitted up the heaters etc. I'm pretty sure from memory that he cut out the firewall to fit the matching heater box from the dash to make it work easier... I'm pretty sure it was him anyway. That car is awesome (the red coupe) and I drooled over it for a long time watching the build. Cheers Bennie

That's ok mate - I'll just live vicariously through you That is if you don't mind... Cheers Bennie

With the water leak/spray: Check that the seal at the top of the windscreen is still good - remove the decal strip to properly inspect it - you can run without this, I've never had mine in since having it on the road which is good as you can keep the area around the windscreen clean I've got an L series that did the same to me - but it was a waterfall at an automatic car wash Turns out that there's about 20cm of rust just along the top of the windscreen... I knew it had some rust in there but wasn't expecting that. So that job is on the things to do list. Around the windscreen is where these subi's mainly rust out over here... Great thread you've got going here - I read it from start to finish the other night Cheers Bennie

Love the targa top brumbys! We never got them in black down here - biege, red/maroon, silver/blue or white I think is the whole colour range... Look after that little ute, they're very hard to find in good nic over here! Cheers Bennie

I am sooo jealous! This would be the ultimate subaru to have in the driveway I reckon! We missed out on the coupes let alone the RXII coupe down here Nor did we get the XT6 with all those extra good bits! Maybe if George (lottery) is good to me I'll be able to import one some day from NZ! *Dreams* Enjoy your L series coupe - Love them! Cheers Bennie

Thought that I might add my L series to this list - Ruby Scoo: EJ22 DR PT4wd L series gearbox cased in EJ gearbox front casings = no adaptor required 3 inch lift (BYB I think) Honda front springs in rear - great mod to do for some extra lift and carrying capcity! 2 1/4 inch cat back exhaust I use 23 inch tyres in the snow and 27 inch tyres on 14 inch scorpion rims when offroad - they look awesome! Rear bar for wheel carrier and jerry holder. Loads of electrical stuff inside - also very messy as I tend to live out of it! Enjoy: On the 23's: Exhaust: And my build tribute to this great little subi: Cheers Bennie

The ring and pinion gears. If you have a 3.7 ratio LSD you can pull the centre out of this, remove the ring gear. Then get your 3.9 ratio diff and pull the centre out of the diff. Remove the 39 tooth ring gear and bolt it back onto the LSD centre, replace in the same casing it came from - no need to worry about back lash etc. Seal and top up with LSD gear oil, replace in the back of your subi and you're good to go. Another thing that is good to do is place several washers on each spring of the LSD to increase the amount of pressure on the clutch packs if it's one of the older (and some say better) units. If it's viscous just drop it straight in Cheers Bennie

I too have a soft spot for the targa tops - I talked my mother in law into buying one over here. She loves it! You can do so much with these to "pimp" them out with stock parts. Sunnie the brumby as he's known now has the coupe's 6 gauge analogue dash, AC, powersteering, central locking and electric windows including the touring wagon's console. The only real issue with him is that he's hard to start when it's cold due to a dead auto choke. The ERG valve when on its way out I think causes idling issues and can stall the engine in cases too. I thought the rust we got over here was bad! Your subi's in general make ours look like simple repairs! Cheers Bennie

I've always gently used a slide hammer with an appropriately sized hook attachment on the end. Works a treat! All the best. Cheers Bennie

I've seen this done before over on ausubi - I can't for the life of me find any pics or details though. I reckon this would be the way to go - stock look if a quick look under the bonnet is done by the constabulary, so nothing obvious to defect on if that's an issue. Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD. This will be my third gearbox I've played with. The first was a case swap to bolt my L series gearbox behind the EJ without an adaptor plate - I didn't bother with new bearings etc as the standard boxes are dime a dozen for a replacement if needed. The second was a gearset swap in a liberty - chipped 1st gear. Third will be this box - although I'm going to get a fella to assemble it for me as I've got no idea/patience to do the pre-loads etc plus I need a few "trick" parts such as a modified low range selector fork to fit the L series low range, and have the crown wheel shaved so it doesn't interfere with the low range gearing. I'll also have an oiling system built into the casing that will pump oil over the low range gearsets on those long hill climbs. I'm also aware of the diff output shaft seals being designed for a specific side each. Idasho, the input shaft seal is the same as the 4 speeds - complete gearbox tear down... Thanks again fellas. I'm hoping to have this gearbox installed in november, we'll see how it goes. I'm also hoping to be there when all the parts come together for this "bitsa" box to get some pics of it all the good bits. Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD. That certainly puts my mind at ease about the bearings with what you say in the above quote in regards to your experiences with many gearbox builds. For the Subaru gearboxes, which areas are the weakest for these boxes and is there anything I can do to help strengthen/increase longevity? Thanks again for your input, much appreciated! Cheers Bennie

No pics but there should be mounts for the condenser in front of the radiator for the L series and the MY's/Brats etc used the radiator bolts and I can't recall what else... Use the gear that's built for your subi from factory and it'll all slot in except the hoses to the compressor. Cheers Bennie