el_freddo

We have semi acceptable CV shafts that do the job alright. EA82 oil pumps, what are they? I don’t run the EA82 as I like the oil to stay inside the engine, I got over the lifter tick and the lack of performance. EJ is the way for me in the EA82 platform. The EA81 goes well but this too will be replaced at some point, I’m just chasing some pieces of the puzzle and doing my testing before it goes into the running vehicle. Yeah mate that works out just fine. I know you’re not the sentimental type so I won’t got there with these vehicles! All the best to the new owner of the one that sold. Probably a parts car… Cheers Bennie

The correct phrase is “yeah they ain’t worth anything” or “they’re worth nothing”. Can’t have a double negative in a sentence, it’s like multiplying two negatives together. Sorry, just one of my pet hates of our language that I hear many young kids replicate thinking they sound cool. As the the autos, they’re a good base to convert to dual range manual in my book. Generally speaking the auto models are very tidy having been babied their whole life and usually garaged. I love grabbing the rear shafts from autos as they’re usually “unused” as such and are mint for spares. But as GD says, they’re hard to find parts for from the junkyard. Aftermarket service parts still seem to be available enough, at least they are over here for now - we’ll, until we cut ties with China economically we should be “fine”. Cheers Bennie

That’s an awesome score there @KiwiGL! That’s the sort of conversion ppl want to drop in their Brumbys over here! The matching PT4wd box is good too. It should have better ratios for larger tyres and possibly have the 1.59:1 low range too. It’ll be interesting to see how the gearbox mounts are same or different, and whether the gearbox is the same overall length. If it is, no tailshaft mods needed (winning!), or you might be able to use the front section from the donor vehicle if the gearbox length is different. I’m keen to know! It’ll probably have the 23 spline diff output stub axles too. Makes it all easy! With the pitch stopper rod, cut down the factory L series one to fit the EJ bracket on the gearbox. Overlap the two rod halves when fitted, pin them and tack weld. Finish the weld off properly on the bench Should be a good setup once you’re done. I do prefer the EFI over carb, but that’s me, others disagree! Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got your old clutch kit still hanging around and you’re going to pull the engine or gearbox out, measure the two throw out bearings for any differences. On my EJ conversion with the new clutch I had to put two washers behind the pivot ball to get enough leverage to use the replacement clutch. What I found later on was that the new throw out bearing was about 3mm thinner than the factory throw out bearing. This it what I think your issue could be. Cheers Bennie

Good to hear you’ve found some info on what’s causing the issue with some thorough checking. I’m still one for skipping the parts yards for fuel pumps and buy new aftermarket. Cheers Bennie

There’s lots of compatibility between the two boxes so long as you follow the two key rules: 1) both boxes are dual range 2) the EJ box is a phase 1 box* With 2) and the * bit: The EA82 low range can be adapted to the phase two EJ box if the phase two box is dual range too. The internals of the EA and phase 1 WJ box aren’t a direct swap in to the phase two cases. They will physically fit but reverse will be weakened/may not live beyond the first use as the shaft for the reverse slide gear is ~2mm further out compared to the phase 1 boxes. To get back to the original question: you could mate the EA82 internals and rear case with the phase 1 EJ front cases. Input shaft bearing mods will be required to fit the EJ input bearing housing. You’ll need a custom gearbox mount, prop shaft and maybe linkages. Or you could run an adaptor plate between the EJ engine and EA82 gearbox like they do in EJ conversions to EA series models. You’ll still need the other mods regardless and you’ll need to mod the EA82 flywheel to mate to the EJ crank. The EA82 clutch may need to be beefed up depending on your needs. You can add the bracket for the EJ pitch stopper rod to the EA gearbox too. This option would be easiest for gearbox replacements if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

Yep. Pretty good. It’s only function is to properly locate the TOB to the fork and vice versa, it doesn’t need to be overkill. So why change something that’s working well? Cheers Bennie

Must be a good shelf!! Cheers Bennie

Did you inspect the clutch fork for cracks or deformities? Was the clutch an aftermarket kit that included the throw out bearing? I’ve found aftermarket throw out bearings are undersized - only by several mm but every bit counts! And are you sure it was the correct clutch kit? Cheers Bennie

You’ll need an oil resistant hose to replace it with. I’ve got no idea where to get that stuff over your way. Cheers Bennie

Is that a rhetorical question? Or are you talking to yourself? I’d say because it’s something interesting and rare..? Cheers Bennie

From memory 185/75r13 is the factory tyre size. It should be in your owners manual if you’ve still got it! Cheers Bennie

Read your codes from the ECU. Decipher them from the list. Go from there. Sounds to me more like one of the following: - bad or dirty AFM - dead O2 sensor - bad/dead coolant temp sensor Don’t go throwing money at it until you know what the codes are Cheers Bennie

Definitely EA81. The giveaway is the sideways mounted thermostat that faces to the rear of the vehicle. The EA82 unit has the thermostat housing on the front of the intake manifold and it sits horizontally. Hope this helps! Cheers Bennie

G’day Alan, Anything is possible so you probably could adapt the Weber to the carter carb intake manifold. I’m not overly familiar with this intake or carb but I think it’s a single barrel job and the intake has a smaller hole for the carb as a result. Someone will know more than me on this. As for the resto, this to me is an easy one to sort out over all of the vehicle is in as good condition as you’ve described. Even if the carb isn’t factory, it allows the rest of the car to do original/factory thing - and the carb allows the car to be used/enjoyed for what it is. The old carb and intake can be boxed up for someone who wants to be full original if they ever feel the need. Other option is a bigger project - EJ conversion for a sleeper - classic looks with a stealthy and more modern level of performance and reliability Cheers Bennie

The kit I’ve seen is advertised for $450. Quite reasonable I think considering they were being snapped up for $600 at one point! brat/brumby vs population ratio would be interesting. Cheers Bennie

They’re a cool item Steptoe, but I can’t see their worth other than them being a rare item to own and put on a shelf. Fog lights aren’t really necessary in Oz generally. The only time I’ve ever found them useful was when I was living in the Australian alpine areas - even then all I did was cover my lights with yellow cellophane. Worked a treat! All the best to your mate and the sale of his items. I’ve seen a power steering setup for the MYs sit on Gumtree for a number of weeks now - it’s very well priced too, I think it’s a sign of things slowing down in terms of what ppl are putting into their vehicles - that or PS systems don’t rate highly (but they transform these vehicles!). It would be interesting to find out how many Brats were delivered to the US and how many to Australia in total. Cheers Bennie

Keep it! You won’t find another one in that sort of condition! Any manifold off another EA81 will fit and work the same. The EA82 manifolds will fit and work but may need some grinding under the centre of the manifold for it to bold down properly and the thermostat is on the front of the manifold. Small work around to plumb back into the factory rad hose, or just run the EA82 factory upper hose. What you’re looking at isn’t a difficult job as far as conversions go. Others will tell you to throw a Weber on it while you’re at it. Then enjoy! Cheers Bennie

Yeah sorry, that was me making a poor joke - that’s me flogging the dead horse, not you or your Justy! Steptoe could be on to something there, it could even be sticky valves if it’s sat for a decent amount of time. How’s the search for the manuals you need going? Cheers Bennie

I need one now! I love the L series coupe and it’s worse because we don’t get them here so getting me one is near impossible! Cheers Bennie

You sure you don’t have high compression on cylinder #2? There's a website that has a whole bunch of Subaru manuals to download, I’m 99% sure there’s a Justy manual on there. It should have all the info you need There’s this page - Wade past the ads to the manuals you want: https://www.onlymanuals.com/subaru/justy?category=cars This site also has some Justy manuals available: https://workshop-manuals.com/subaru/ Hope those help. Cheers Bennie

Pics are good on a phone! I’m glad to hear your RX is still kicking around. Seems to have the same sort of hiatus as my offroad L wagon, but she’s outside rather than under cover 😢 Also needs some work. Keen for some pics of the car itself! And the blue tape on the combustion chamber - I’m guessing it’s for porting purposes or am I missing something? How long did you spend on porting as it looks really good, quite a bit of polishing there I’d imagine! I hope that paint bakes on after the first decent engine run! Cheers Bennie

Great update Todd and as always a good spread of pics too. The falls shown right up the top of this post was really interesting the way the water cut across the rock like that! The centre diff noise - sure it’s not a bearing in the gearbox? It’s good to hear the centre diff is wearing ok, nothing wearing faster than expected? Cheers Bennie

I believe it’s a little more involved than just soaking them, you’ll need to bleed the air out of them - basically pump the HLA in a bath of oil (the little hole on the side needs to be covered) to swap the air that’s in there now for oil. They should go solid once they’re full of oil. Then install. Cheers Bennie

You don’t. You go and get either a new OEM unit and fit it or you buy a quality aftermarket unit. There’s no guarantee how a used pump was looked after. These pumps use the fuel for cooling - run out of fuel often is a pump killer, even once can be enough (probably more so for external EFI pumps) to do permanent damage if not toast the pump. If you were in a bind second hand could b a get out of jail card, but only if it meant you get to leave with a working pump! And I’d pull it from a vehicle with the most amount of dirt etc around the fuel pump plate. My 5c on the subject of used fuel pumps. Cheers Bennie