el_freddo

I disagree with the bypass comment - the heater is a radiator, it gets its coolant from under the thermostat that is then sucked through the heater core back to the water pump to then cycle through the engine block again. This helps for a quick heater, even engine warm up and opening of the thermostat. Thus during cold engine operation the only coolant being cycled is that of the heater circuit - the radiator out front is blocked by the thermostat until the thermostat is warm enough to start opening. The EJ takes it differently - having the thermostat mounted upside down before the water pump on the inlet side of the engine! But the same principal applies really. Cheers Bennie

Wow mate, breaking a control arm is pretty serious! I've got a 3 inch BYB kit in my L, I've been bouncing around on many things but have not broken a control arm - or heard of it being done, you'll usually bend the radius rod or rip out the captive nuts that hold the radius rod's plate to the underside of your subi! As for your camber I'm not sure where the issue is as I don't know the details of your subi's build. Are you running a 2 inch body lift or only a strut lift? I'm sure they would have built the kit with some kind of offset on the strut tops to change the camber to something near normal for these subi's... Add some pics of your front end lift blocks - this might help us work out where the issue is. No other suspension mods we should know about other than the lift? Cheers Bennie