el_freddo

You could look up the test procedure in the manual and conduct that. Otherwise I’m out of ideas other than using the visa or Mastercard method… Cheers Bennie

Or the mechanic messing with the system while it was live? Or that dodgy light socket you found could’ve done it too. Cheers Bennie

Or a heat related vacuum leak. Which has me thinking about a faulty purge control solenoid for the fuel tank ventilation system, it could be doing weird things. Cheers Bennie

I hope you’ve got a replacement distributor ready to go. I believe they’re also annoy so easy part to find these days. Cheers Bennie

There’s not much to identify with these engines other than differences in the heads. The valve covers determine if you have the small or larger valve heads. Black is the later heads with the larger valves, aqua type colour is smaller valves. Other than that difference gaskets and bearings etc will all be the same, maybe with exception to the carb if they changed the carb at all during the production run. I’m not 100% on that though. I do know really early EA81s came with a single throat carb, apparently these weren’t produced for long. Someone else will clarify. Cheers Bennie

Glad you found it that easily! Wiring issues can drive ppl nuts trying to find it/them, and some businesses make some good coin trying to chase the problem too. Cheers Bennie

I still reckon disco stuffed up the procedure using UEC in the EA82 for a start. Second was not enough revs. It’s a shame he put in all that effort then parted it out rather than pulling the heads and cleaning the valves up. Wasted project there in my book. Cheers Bennie

That’s the first time I reckon I’ve ever heard or read that phrase! I hope you’re all safe! Cheers Bennie

Sweet Cheers Bennie

You didn’t try the freeze spray trick first? Cheers Bennie

And I always fill until the brim because extra fuel in the tank - more time away from the servo for me, plus it’s the most accurate way to keep fuel records knowing the tank is full to the same level every time. I’ve not had an issue with this method of filling in my brumby, L series or my sister’s Gen3 Liberty. And it’s not like I’m only driving a block or two before the car is shut off and left to sit. Cheers Bennie

Don’t bother thinning out the EA loom. Just tape up any wire ends to isolate them then tuck them out of the way. A new heater core is worth the coin if you can still get one. I replaced the one in Ruby Scoo with an all copper unit and I haven’t looked back since! That was after blowing two heater core end tanks. I got sick of removing the dashboard! On that note, the dashboard doesn’t need to have anything removed from it to pull it out of the car. It goes in and out as a complete unit It’s just weight to deal with - and avoid it touching the windscreen. I lent mine on the windscreen and cracked it from the inside - right in the view of the driver! Cheers Bennie

The purge valve was a common issue in the early turbos - a mate of mine recommended that I move the purge control valve from under the intake manifold to somewhere easily accessible for replacement. So I’d agree that this could be the issue on both vehicles mentioned in this thread. Good thought @1 Lucky Texan! Cheers Bennie

I always have to use a centre pull device to get my steering wheel off. You’ll find a threaded hole one either side of the steering shaft in parallel. I used these and it worked well. I remember one time, probably the first time, putting loaded of tension on the centre pull and leaving it overnight. It popped off overnight. Hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

2005… about the time GM got their grip on the company. Coincidence? I dunno about this huge push for EVs - over here certainly none of our electricity network grid is even close to ready for mass uptake of that type of transport! Time will tell what happens, it’s a balls up atm and with the cost of living going through the roof the chance of ppl moving over to EVs is slim. I know I’m out of the running for one, not that it would meet my needs other than commuting to work and back again. And don’t believe the “zero emissions” marketing or EVs! Out of sight, out of mind. Coal fired power stations will be what’s powering the EV movement while solar, wind and tidal infrastructure play catch up. Interesting times ahead. This work should have started 20 years ago! My 5c for off topic chat! Cheers Bennie

You’re not understanding what steptoe is saying. Move the cams closer to the crank like you did will change their timing as the cams are clocked more one way or the other, unless you moved them in so far that aligning to the next tooth kept the cams at 12 and 6 o’clock when the crank was on its mark. Cheers Bennie

Get in behind the panel and Unclip the plastic clips from inside the car. You will need to remove internal panels for this to happen. Fit clips to the trim piece then push them into the holes in the body work. Cheers Bennie

Rough call mate. You’d be better off posting his in the present 90’s onwards EJ forum My biggest question would be who rebuilt the engine and did they know what they were doing? For your first car I’d be going for something that’s stock, reliable and easy to maintain. With this you’re buying a whole lot of aftermarket gear that you and your son most likely know nothing about, nor would you know what’s stock and what’s not - that doesn’t make it easy to follow up replacement parts. Lastly, yes it looks awesome, but you could be buying someone else’s problems which is often the case with highly modified and raced vehicles unless you know the vehicle from being at races/in the owners circle of friends. Cheers Bennie

Before it heads to the junkyard drop an EJ22 into it. No joke you’ll probably get better fuel economy than what you’re getting now and it will “just run better all round”. Plus the maintenance side of things drops off a cliff with an EJ compared to an EA82! Cheers Bennie

Sticky IACV comes to mind but the occurrence when filling with fuel does not as this issue doesn’t discriminate with fuel levels… Haven’t changed or played any plumbing under the bonnet recently? I’m wondering if it could be some fuel being pushed through the vac lines or an emissions venting system that’s potentially flooding the engine. Mind you I can fill all of our Subarus to the brim and none have an issue with starting afterwards. It’ll be interesting to know what the issue is once it’s sorted! Cheers Bennie

It could be a broken speedo cable. Worst case it’s the plastic gear in the gearbox stripping out. If the speedo cable isn’t it, the easiest fix is to use a GPS for speed readings. Cheers Bennie

Dunno about the cap issue but try starting with your foot flat to the floor and see if that gets it started. This cuts the injector pulses off during cranking, and if the trick works something is causing a flooded engine event. Cheers Bennie

That was one of my thoughts too @Numbchuxbut I figured this was a factory loom trimmed of excess wiring that would use its start wiring. But it does make sense if Docmidbrat uses a “secondary” loom for ignition and start etc given the steering column and starter locations have moved. It could be that one reference wire needed in our southern hemisphere’s current cold weather. Summertime temps might be warm enough to getaway without needing the cold starting mix enriched. And I agree with GD - have a look at what most Gen3 B4 twin turbo owners do - convert to single to get rid of potential twin turbo “aids” as it’s been dubbed on some forums. Cheers Bennie

And how long until Toyota loyalists should go suck a bag of $hit?? Toyotas are build well like many Japanese brands are, but they can be considerably more expensive (over here) with the “Toyota tax”, even second hand they’re above the rest in used car prices compared to their competitors vehicles in the same category. Cheers Bennie

I should’ve added, the build thread for this mid mount brumby is worth the read! Cheers Bennie