el_freddo

@Btcox- that’s the module I’m talking about! I like @azdave’s idea with trying to cool that part down to bring it back into its heat range where it works as intended. Worth a shot and will pin point the issue of the trick works. Cheers Bennie

You should be able to read your codes through the black test connectors in the loom. Hopefully they’re still in your loom and not cut out. Connect these plugs together (or find the pin on the ECU and ground it from memory), turn the ignition to the ON position, engine OFF. Count the flashes of the check engine light. Long flash = 10s, quick flash = 1s. Find a chart with the codes for your ECU, they should be online somewhere if you don’t have the FSM. Things it could be: - sticky IACV - ECU not recognising it’s in start mode - leaking injector(s) causing a flooded situation. Next time try flooring the throttle on start, this will tell the ECU to cut the injector pulses to help clear the flooded issue. If this gets you past your injectors aren’t holding pressure like they should - also check out the ignition switch to ensure it’s not a dodgy switch. Sometimes the ON position can be dicky and not provide power to the ECU, stalling the engine. Same can be said for the start position where the starter motor cranks all day but no power to the ignition for the engine to fire with, in this situation the only way to start the engine is to crank it, let go of the start position and hope the spark in the ON position “catches” the engine rotation allowing the engine to start and hopefully run before the rotational momentum is lost - coolant temp sensor Well that short list got detailed… I’ll leave you to it. Hopefully that code will show something up that resolves the issue. Cheers Bennie

The anti backfire stuff (can’t even remember what this looks like) could’ve been removed with the rest of the emissions gear. Timing should be set at about 8°BTDC. This should be set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line plugged. Don’t forget to reconnect it once you’ve set the timing. I’m not up with the cam specs between the NA MPFI and carb, I’m sure they’re similar if not the same - they both scavenge between exhaust and intake valves closing and opening respectively. This is where there is a bit of overlap of the exhaust and intake valve openings. The turbo cams are different though - from what I’ve read. There’s no overlap for scavenging. If your block is a turbo block you’ll have these cams and also compression reducing pistons. If you can get a bore scope down a spark plug hole you will know if you have turbo or NA pistons in there. NA pistons are flat with valve recesses, where as the turbo pistons have a “dished” out section to reduce compression. This will tell you heaps about what you’re working with. The EA82 isn’t a powerhouse by any means and the EJ engine would be the better option, the EJ22 being the best option for power and reliability. You would need a new adaptor plate and flywheel arrangement though. All more $$$$s to put you off. Then to get the best out of the EJ you’d want to run the factory ECU or a good aftermarket ECU. Another thing to check on the EA82 is that both cams are correctly timed with the crank - make sure they’re not a tooth out either way as this will effect performance. Cheers Bennie

Don’t replace your injectors. Your issue is either a dying fuel pump or the ignition module on the firewall is getting too hot. More likely your fuel pump is dying, although when mine died under high temp conditions (<30km/h driving in sand during the warmer months, fine at cruise and around town), the engine would stall out and be a PITA to restart immediately - at which point it would stall out again shortly after. The other thing you could check is power at the main relays. Hook up a multi metre to watch when the issue shows up. If the voltage is jumping with the engine revs there’s an issue with the relays. Same for the ecu power. The reason why I’m suggesting the power issue is because of the way the rev counter jolts you and down - as if power is suddenly cut then reinstated in a repetitive cycle. I’m guessing this issue just keeps going on and on? At what point does the car “snap out” of this behaviour? Cheers Bennie Edit: as for parts, the engine and gearbox are phase 1 gear. Basically the same as the EJ22 legacy. The engine sensors etc are interchangeable. Someone will correct me on the specifics of what’s different but essentially they’re all the same. You might be able to find a FSM from Japan or Australia as we got the impreza from the first model in 1993 or 1994 (I’m not sure which year the impreza started).

This is similar to what used to happen to the EA82 autos - the seal between the diff and auto trans would let go, auto fluid and diff oil would mix, pinion bearing would give out and end up allowing the pinion gear and shaft to move forward to munch the centre of the diff. This usually resulted in a front wheel lock up and a destroyed front diff. As others have said, a replacement transmission is the way to go. The hardest part is unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate I reckon. Keep the torque converter in place when removing the old and fitting the replacement. Or get a shop to do it for you. The sun dials are only going to be a band aid measure at best I reckon. Cheers Bennie

If the dizzy isn’t spinning and the ignition module not being activated the coil won’t give a spark. You need to check that cam belt is present and turning the cam with the engine. As others have said, it’s an easy thing to check - remove dizzy cap and turn the engine with the starter motor, either have someone do the starter and you watch the rotor or mark where the rotor was, flick the starter and see if the rotor moved location. Or remove the cam cover as mentioned and visually check the cam belt. If those check out I’d be looking at the connector at the dizzy to the body loom, followed by the electronic ignition module in the dizzy. It would be odd for it to let go so early with those miles but anything can happen too, it’s definitely worth looking into. All the best. Cheers Bennie

This forum is a huge source of information! Do some searching for the info you want. You might have to use google with your search word then “site:www.ultimatesubaru.org” to restrict the search to this forum Cheers Bennie

That does look like an MPFI intake and it looks like the injectors are still fitted too, which makes sense, otherwise you’d need a cap in there to stop vacuum leaks. Is the carb on an adaptor plate? The MPFI and carb bolt patterns as very different to each other. Do you know if you got MPFI models in Greece? I’m wondering if you only got the MPFI turbo engine over there. If this is a turbo block it will have reduced compression to allow for boost. If the heads are the original turbo heads you should be able to see some cap plugs on the back (or forward in the Kombi) of the head on the vehicle’s LHS - ther would be an oil return tube low in the head that would need to be capped and would probably be quite obvious. If no capping plugs in the head then more likely the NA MPFI engine which would run fine with the carb. Do you run any sort of ECU to run the ignition timing? If not you must have the carb dizzy fitted too. This will keep things simple. The carb does look like it’s some sort of hitachi carb. Whether it’s an EA81or EA82 unit is anyone’s guess from the pic. It’s been ages since I’ve seen an EA82 hitachi (they basically look the same!) but I do recall the bolt pattern between the two of them was different with the EA81’s being smaller than the EA82’s. Cheers Bennie

Don’t bin the legacy until your conversion is up and running properly. Otherwise Murphy might pay you a visit! Cheers Bennie

You sure it’s not light lifter tick? Cheers Bennie

Do a search on the forum. Many have done it and from what I remember all of them crack the ring lands of the piston - I don’t know if this naturally happens over time with boost or if the builder got boost greed… GD isn’t a wrx guy per-sae, he runs a very successful Subaru specialist workshop and I believe he’s had loads of experience with the EA81 and EA82. Personally I think the EA82 is possibly Subarus worst 4 cylinder engine. Box cams suggest a rush into the over head cam 80’s marketing catch cry. I’d take an EA81 over an EA82 any day. I’d recommend an EJ conversion. From factory the EJ has similar power figures to the factory EA82t - but with much less complication in its build/operation. All the best with your decision and whichever way you go. Cheers Bennie

That’s awesome. There’s not many ppl I’d share my brumby/brat with! Cheers Bennie

If you’re talking about the seals under the plates for the hinges/latches, use an old bike tube to make new seals. I’ll be doing this with mine soon as they’re letting water in during mild rain events. Other way to do it is with sikaflex or some other sort of elastic like silicone, it could get messy but it could come up good too. Cheers Bennie

That’s a fair effort! I didn’t know cheap springs we’re a thing. Over here king springs are very reasonably priced so cheap rip off branded springs aren’t a thing that I know of… Cheers Bennie

Geez, that engine bay! Good effort! Cheers Bennie

I think you’d need to compare ECU pin outs manual vs auto. From the wiring looms I’ve cut down, I recall that the TCU needs are T’d into wires between sensors and the ECU. Cross reference part numbers and that will tell you more about what you’re up against. Before all of that. Look into the idle air control valve/mechanism. The rubber end on the plunger seems to get brittle and crack/wear in a groove that probably doesn’t supply the greatest seal when needed. Another thing, have you read the codes? I’d say that if you had an issue with the ECU you’d be experience more than erratic idle issues! Cheers Bennie

Could also be a difference in the control unit. You might find the auto uses a different unit to the manual. Cheers Bennie

I don’t see rust causing slip issues, if anything some rust in there (while it lasts) will provide extra friction and extra belt wear. It’s an interesting situation. My sister’s Gen3 RX is apparently doing the same thing, but it doesn’t seem to be as full on as what you’re describing - yet. Cheers Bennie

Our markets got the dual range until just recently I believe, all are AWD, no part time systems beyond the L series/MY brumby platforms that were phased out in the early to mid ‘90’s. Cheers Bennie

This is another one I was meaning to post about ages ago. This swap is into a Williams Wildcat skid steer tractor. Pretty cool piece of kit. From factory it ran the Wisconsin V4 - a popular stationary workhorse engine of that era. Not easy to get parts for over here these days… so what’s an alternative? Throw an EA81 above the location of the old engine with a solid shaft connecting the two hydraulic pumps that are mounted on either side of the engine, directly to its crankshaft. This one utilises a belt to deliver power from the flywheel to the hydraulic pumps: Pics borrowed from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/wildcat-mods/ And this is the Williams Wildcat: The V4 in place: front view, seat is an addition: Above two pics from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/2013/05/25/alans-incredible-wildcat/amp/ Very low centre of gravity gave it an edge on inclines, you can drive one of these across the sides of hills that would be considered dicey at best in a regular tractor. Great for slashing hillsides with. If anyone happens to be visiting Melbourne in Oz, head over to Spotswood Science works - they have what I think is the last one off the production line in one of their display sheds. Many of them were construction yellow, which is what this last example is painted in. That’s it for me and creating/swapping Subaru engines into bits of machinery. Now curious if anyone else has any to share, given the lack of responses so far I’m guessing it’s a pretty rare thing to do! Cheers Bennie

Any updates on this Todd? There’s this write up for the Gen3, some of it might be relevant to other models too: http://www.subyclub.com/topic/12666-diy-installretrofit-cruise-control-to-3gen-liberty/ Cheers Bennie

Interesting. Many of our Libertys (Legacy else where) in Oz are GL spec but don’t usually have that in their spec level description. The reason why I picked it as the LX base model was because of the tailgate trim. This is the dead giveaway for the hard to find LX model over here. Most of our libertys have this tailgate trim and full electrics, including factory cruise control: They’ve all got the raised roof over here too. I didn’t know the flat roof was even a thing until someone here was frothing over a raised roof shared on the forum. Cheers Bennie

Is that how they determine scar is roadworthy over there?? Cheers Bennie

Well you figured it out yourself before a dozen posts telling you want to check and look out for, kudos from me too for that. And don’t stress, before I knew about forums I had my rebuilt EA82 only ever running on one bank at a time. It took me about 6 months of working on the car before I worked out what the problem was - and that was only because my sister’s L series had the same issue after a HG swap. Once we worked that one out I had mine solved in just a few minutes. I was so stoked! So don’t go beating yourself up on not having replies with ideas but still finding the issue! Forums are slow now compared to pre Facebook and “smart” phones became a thing. Cheers Bennie

The H6 is a very different beast in the HG swap department, much cheaper to drop in a JDM second hand engine. A mate of mine did the same over here as it was cheaper and less than half the km’s than what his engine had on it. Cheers Bennie