el_freddo

Do you know the history of the engine? If not it certainly points to a head gasket issue. Why was the original engine swapped out? Cheers Bennie

I too don’t like the LED fad that’s going on and the blinking of a fellow driver that they manage to pull off. This is what I’m going to be getting of my brumby with the quad lights. This is the outer hi/low beam globe: https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/ZPN-45796_?noseo=true&c=AU&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L6PBhBvEiwAINlJ9EXBryIsRHv8_jdPNHzmuaJT4ptGIVK_H8Fq0dzXs6u_n3tDuDNZShoCuSwQAvD_BwE That’s an Aussie site, you might be able to find one out your way that sells something similar. For me, this setup allows me to choose what globes I want to be using, and running a set of secondary relays triggered by the factory system should have the most voltage possible at the lights. High beam isn’t an issue for me, the single high headlights work really well in my brumby and I’ve got a decent set of IPF driving lights to go with them: That said, the high beam factory lights will be phased out for a replaceable globe H1 arrangement. The glass of the light will look different from factory but it’ll look way better than the LED units IMO. I’d like a set of spot lights/landing lights where the filament is directly exposed forward, but this isn’t allowed on our roads for any of our forward facing lights and I can’t find any units anyway. This is the sort of thing I’ll be looking into, dunno about spending that sort of coin though: https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/narva-72022?utm_term=NARVA-72022&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L6PBhBvEiwAINlJ9MlikwNu4D02X_GQYN_UUYNrsdEWU40kJduBvY-ECx5J2-0IYeDzKhoCBFgQAvD_BwE Cheers Bennie

How much in the strut blocks and the engine crossmember blocks? And are you running a standard spring or a lifted spring? If you’ve got 3 inch on the engine crossmember and 4 inch on the strut tops you’ve already got extra angle on your CVs. If you then went with lifted springs they can add another inch into the entire setup and push the CVs to their extreme limit. Typically I’ve found that a matching lift on the strut and the engine crossmember with lifted springs works well. I don’t chew through CV shafts or boots and I’m on 27 inch tyres. Cheers Bennie

Did you do lifted springs at the same time as the Outback struts? If so this will push things out hard beyond what the factory suspension adjustments can do. Using the Outback subframe blocks will pull everything back in line but maintain more lift with lifted springs. This should allow you to run bigger a bigger tyre size too. I recall reading about adding a second adjustment bolt to the lower hole to allow the extra movement. I’m not sure, but there might be mob out there that makes this bolt, or you might be able to pinch the adjuster bolt from a wreck and use that. Someone will know more on this. Also check your trailing arms for any deformations such as a knock that’s bent one. The vibration could be a wheel balance issue. Cheers Bennie

~450km round trip today to see my brother (good catch up that was long overdue!). I drove home with the roof glass out, got a bit cool climbing the hills through Wombat State forest area. This pick was near an old volcano called Mt Franklin with several storm clouds off in the distance - where I was headed for home. I missed all the rain which was good. Longest run with the “tops off” for me so far - about 220km through several climate changes. Last big trip to Melbs and back I managed to get 8.5L/100km - anything at 10L/100km is awesome in my book for a vehicle of this age. This trip might be different as there were more hills and more stop/start intersections. Great day crusing! I enjoyed it! Cheers Bennie

So was an added relay the issue, back feeding voltage once the ignition was off but operating as it should with ignition on? This is the typical behaviour for a relay that’s set up as positive switched but should be earth switched, most common one to mess up is the auxiliary driving lights on later model Subarus since their lighting system is earth switched. Cheers Bennie

ECU will run in an “open loop” program I think when the O2 sensor is dodgy or disconnected. The rough running could be the AFM as you’ve said, or it’s poor fuel pressure/a stuck injector. Or it could just sound really rough without any exhaust on... Get the radiator in and let it run for a bit once you’ve got the noise factor sorted. While the engine is running you might be able to gently tap the injectors to free them up if you can’t hear them clicking away through a stethoscope or long screwdriver/piece of dowel. Interesting that you think that voltage issue is with the original wiring and not the cut down loom, also good news if that’s the case. Cheers Bennie

Correct on the carb pump not going to operate once the engine is running - unless you have the tacho signal sent from the ECU to the magic black box that cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of a crash. Have a look into why you can’t operate the EFI pump off the factory wiring. There’s one power wire to hook into the EFI pump, the rest should “just work” without needing to touch it. All the best with it. I’m hoping for you that it’s a simple issue, possibly something feeding back from the main loom, possibly a missing diode but that wouldn’t explain the low voltage to me. Cheers Bennie

Have you added any relays to operate power to any of the EJ wiring? You might need to have these set up as a negative/earth switched arrangement. That said I can’t think of anything on the EA81 that’s earth switched other than the radiator temp switch for the thermo fans. All relays on the EJ will be earth switched. Even the CEL light is earth switched and requires 12v positive on the other side of the light for it to operate properly. As for the fuel pump issue, it should run off the factory EJ wiring just fine without doing anything to the factory wiring in that area. You could have a dodgy relay, not common but possible. This relay is earth switched from memory too. The main power relay should have 12v ignition “ON” power directed at the relay to switch the main power source on from memory. I’d have to look at my wiring diagrams to be sure though. How have you hooked up the EFI pump’s wiring to make it run electrically parallel to the factory pump? And how do you know the ECU won’t control the EFI pump? It should prime for several seconds when the key is initially turned to the “ON” position then shut off until you start cranking the engine and the ECU sees a crank angle reference pulse (I think that’s how it knows the engine is turning over to trigger the EFI pump). Last thought is the diodes in the main power circuits, were these retained or cut out of the system? They’re little black rectangular boxes with two wires going to the box. These boxes are small and would be taped inside the factory wiring conduit/tape. If one of these is missing it could be giving you the kind of trouble you’re experiencing. There’s two from memory. I hope this is a help to you. All the best with getting to the bottom of the issue! Cheers Bennie

It’s definitely an EA OHV model... I’m guessing an EA81 in that pic. Cheers Bennie

Awesome news! And surprising too. They’d burn it out here (usually). Zero regard to the car or the (possibly passionate) owner. That’s nuts about the theft of vehicles over there! That sort of thing does happen here but it’s rare enough not to stress about it. If you see it happen here you call the police and because the theft is in progress they’re more likely to attend ASAP. Dunno how you’ll keep your Subaru long term, sounds like an epic battle of vehicle ownership against those that don’t have a vehicle and those that work with a stolen to order checklist. All the best! Bennie

Thanks @Numbchux - the radiator is an unknown to us as it’s the one that came with the car. Will look at replacing it before our next summer, so November-ish. It won’t be doing any big runs like that in the heat from this point on, and certainly not towing a trailer for some time if ever again. Cheers Bennie

I was wondering this too. But I’d say all in on the purchase of the JDM engine then labour to swap it would be much much more than fixing the seal and chains etc that are being done now. Cheers Bennie

Yeah not a Justy. Got any other pics of the body shape? I reckon Silverhelme is on the money about it being an EA81 hatch. Cheers Bennie

List is long/good for the legacy. What are you looking at specifically and from what donor model? Cheers Bennie

Ah that sucks mate! I didn’t think it was worth swapping out the chain, tensioner and guides I would look at but not the chain. But that’s without looking at it too. Cheers Bennie

I’ve never seen a press fitted one. How do you replace those?? Cheers Bennie

No bubbles, no boiling coolant. I didn’t have my infrared thermo gun with me at the time so no solid temp readings either. The fact that you could literally watch the temp drop back to proper operating temp suggests to me it’s not the HG. Changing gears down didn’t help, but what did help was getting a run up on the flat just before the hill then ease off the throttle a little as we climbed the hill, putting only a little amount of load on the auto and engine. Cheers Bennie

My mother inlaw’s 2002 auto forester with the EJ251 gets hot when climbing hills at speed in warm weather. Towing a light trailer exacerbated the issue at a lower ambient air temp (9°C lower at ~26°C). As you climb a decent long hill, not a mountain by US standards, you can almost watch the engine temp gauge go to the red, backing off and babying it will hold the temp gauge there or have it drop a tiny bit. So I ruled out the engine being the issue for the following reasons: - I did the HGs two years ago, shaved the heads, lapped the valves and used the MLS HG units recommended by GD - top of radiator was hot, lower core was cool, lower tank was hot - RHS fan pulling really hot air, LHS fan pulling less hot air that was substantially cooler - auto fluid lines into the radiator felt quite hot with marginal difference between the two lines - lower rad hose seemed almost as hot as the upper rad hose - temp gauge drops to normal operating temp as soon as you crest the hill, it would generally be back to normal about halfway down the other side I’m thinking there’s an issue with the auto. There’s no AT temp light coming on and no other lights when this happens. I’ve only just thought about pulling code for the TCU but don’t know if that’s a thing or how to do it without a scanner. It’s got 370,000km on the clock from memory, it could be 340,000km... either way it’s “up there” by most Aussie’s standards. It drives as you’d expect, no issues there. I don’t know the age or condition of the ATF as I haven’t looked since doing the HGs, at which point it was still “good”. What thoughts do you guys have and what should I be looking at? Cheers Bennie

That’s epic about the update! If they pull it off those mechanics are ones to keep returning to! That’s the equivalent of our country hospitality I’d say. Cheers Bennie

PVC valves are all the same. Engine designation is just under the alternator a little toward the power steering pump. It’ll be EJ20/EJ22/EJ25. Cheers Bennie

Under tray can hide heaps of stuff! It’s worth dropping that off for a look around if you can. I doubt the dealership would want to look for any problems for a warranty job, but I could be wrong there. Cheers Bennie

^ with that said, low throttle at low rpm giving low engine loads is a-ok and I often drive around town like this while short shifting = justcruisinantakiniteasy Cheers Bennie

I’m always cautious on this - the note could be the last time the belt and kit was changed, it could also be the second or third last time too... you just never know when it comes to vehicles that are new to you unless the PO told you truthfully about the last service of these items. Just saying. Cheers Bennie

If she got that hot your HGs might be toast and the alloy softened too. @GeneralDisorder would have more info on this, I suspect it could be time to look into a new engine or an EJ conversion Bennie