el_freddo

Once the factory HG is swapped out for a genuine MLS HG the EJ251 is a great (generally) trouble free engine. My sister’s Gen3 RX Liberty (Legacy) has 470,000km and still counting. Only major issue is the IACV needs to be replaced but we can’t justify the $300+ cost of the unit here. The EJ251 with the manual in the wagon is a mint combination I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Ido converted all the important bits for the EA82. Some other points to note: - the coolant temp sensor (CTS) can cause loads of running issues if it goes out of whack, it won’t necessarily throw a code. - O2 sensors can also go offline/out of whack but not throw a code either. Generally an increase in fuel usages is the symptom of this issue. The auto: - most common problem is that governor issue you’ve already mentioned, followed by the seal between the auto and the front diff dying, it leaks ATF into the diff and vice versa, pinion bearing fails followed by pinion trying to drive itself through the centre of the rotating diff housing. Car stops nasty quick when this happens. Auto is a write off at that point. Spare parts for the auto will be harder to find than the manual box. It could be worth pulling the auto down to swap out the seal that’s the issue. Also a good time to reboot those CV joints with a quality item instead of waiting for the original CV boots to destroy themselves. It would be advisable to replace every coolant hose and possibly the radiator at this age. Don’t miss the little coolant hose under the intake manifold on top of the block, it’s a real bastard to get to! This could be a good vehicle to commute in but you might need to do some preventative maintenance before attempting this or run the risk of needing more work and parts shortly after getting it on the road. The EA82 is a. Engine that likes to spin fast, it’s no torque monster by any means and will happily rev at 3500-4000rpm all day with quality oil and coolant doing its thing. Cheers Bennie

Just watched the three videos and was hoping for a few more updates. Also a bit of a shame he didn’t use the Gen3 legacy multi link rear end, no need to cut into the upper bodywork to clear the strut towers. I’m also a bit jealous about what you guys can “get away” with over there. Here in Oz this thing would need a massive amount of engineering to be deemed roadworthy, and depending on which state you’re in also dictates what you need to do exactly! Cheers Bennie

Geez I never heard of this before! My brumby has three keys - ignition, doors and fuel lid lock. Got lucky on the fuel lid lock - it fits one of Ruby Scoo’s (L series) keys! Very lucky... Cheers Bennie

Two flat head screw drivers on opposite sides might get it out. Jam them in then lever it out with the screw drivers working about 180 degrees apart. It could work. No guarantees but worth a shot I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Steptoe you’re a genius sometimes! The most comfort I’ve found using spring compressors is with my impact driver. Makes the work super quick, easy and I believe safer due to less time spent with the the springs loaded with all that potential energy! Did you use the same method to remove the old bush? Thanks for sharing. Cheers Bennie

Makes sense now.

That or you’re wanting to show your money bags... er, note Cheers Bennie

What’s the pineapple for Steppy??

It’s both here too. The L series RX is the EA82 turbo. The Gen 3 RX is the larger displacement engine with the EJ251 (2.5L), as opposed to the bog stock Legacy with the EJ201 (2L). That’s how it is in Australia, I assumed it would be the same in the US, which could be where there’s an issue in my info. Cheers Bennie

Another car to consider is a Gen3 Legacy - especially the RX model. Plenty of punch for a first car, comfortable to drive, looks good in my opinion. You also get good fuel usage if you drive it neatly. I say this as we have one of these in the family too. It’s my sisters and last time I saw it I checked the odometre and it’s got 470,000km on it. We got it at 330,000km. I did the HGs on it (didn’t know about the factory HG issue and had the external leaking coolant issue). At about 400,000km I redid the HGs with the multi layered steel units GD recommends. Haven’t had an issue since. This thing regularly pulls in 8.6L/100km. Namely country kms. Solid body, loads of room and a good dose of power under the bonnet makes this one a good first car in my book. I wish vehicles like this were accessible to me when I was first driving! Food for thought. Hunt around, see what you can find. Read up on the EJ251 and EJ253 engines. Both are good if maintained - and HGs are swapped with decent units when the time comes. Cheers Bennie

Yep, make a sleeve for the lower shock mount bolt and use the factory L series bolt Cheers Bennie

@hippyloc- you got your issue sorted and it was the same loose main plug? Cheers Bennie

G’day @linkthehero1234, Best thing you can do is learn how to actually drive and master situational awareness. That’s the only real way to improve your safety. As others have said, the XT isn’t the safest car on the road, nor will it be boring to drive because you HAVE to drive it. I think many new safety features make for lazy drivers, and lazy drivers = a crash waiting to happen. Like KiwiGL said, if your parents are buying get yourself into the SG foz. Personally I don’t like the styling of the later series but that’s up to you. It will have front driver and passenger’s airbags, ABS and can be an awesome first car to own. Some minor exhaust mods can have it sounding like a WRX easily if you want. You can raise them for offroad or slam them to the ground, it depends on what you want to do/look like with your vehicle. While you drive that one, work your job and save for the right XT for you. Drive that as a classic and not a daily. Going back to the learning how to drive but - watch some YouTube videos on bike stacks and what they could have done to avoid it - many principles are the same on four wheels in the “cage”. I recommend dandanthefireman, some might not like him but he goes well for me. Cheers Bennie

Very clean L @errantalmond! That just about sums up the EA82. If it’s not leaking it’s probably very low on oil Well done on taking the time to learn. The EA82 is a good engine to learn on. It will teach you all the tricks for sealing an engine successfully Also if you can, start collecting some parts - many say the L parts are drying up... Cheers Bennie

G’day Nutza, you’d have a better response in the EJ sub forum. It could be done with a lot of effort, others will have more to share with you in the other forum. Cheers Bennie

G’day mate, what vehicle are we discussing here? Cheers Bennie

Make sure there are no burrs on the selector shaft. Last thing you want to do is cut up the new seal as you install it! Cheers Bennie

They seem worth the effort for $50. Leave the bases with the seller Cheers Bennie

Yeah wow mate, that’s crazy! Dunno how that could happen without the retainer pin being removed. Cheers Bennie

The tow bar unit that requires holes could be a 50x50mm receiver hitch style, typically seen as the heavy duty unit. These have the advantage of easily removing the tow ball tongue/hitch with a clip and a pin. I pulled one from a 2002 foz and sold it here locally with all bolts and trailer wiring for $AU120. Holes needed to be drilled at the top of the spare tyre well where sandwich plates were fitted from memory. I much prefer the self serve yards - when you know what you need and can get EVERYTHING rather than having to communicate with the wreckers about all the little bits that complete the kit (this happened to me recently with a good self serve and “premium” wreckers... just the small but critical items x2). Cheers Bennie

Clock spring could be an issue depending on the design. I reckon that mechanic was politely saying no to your request. I forgot about the trick @nvu posted. Cheers Bennie

Double post

You can slide the knuckle up the steering shaft and release it from the steering rack input shaft, rotate 180 degrees and refit. Or pull the steering wheel, rotate and replace, do up the retainer nut and put the wheel back together. No need to drop the rack Cheers Bennie

G’day Chuck. Do some searching, the digi dash is known for issues in the board behind the cluster. I can’t remember if you replace a part in there or if you just resolder it. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie