el_freddo

I’d use the EJ205 bottom end (block) with the EJ20k heads. Are the internals of the EJ20k aftermarket? They’d be worth holding on to if you wanted to properly build an engine. If they’re factory they’ll be no different/better than that of the Ej205 internals. If the internals of the EJ20k are aftermarket and quality parts that you want to build an engine with, and you don’t have a tight timeline, you could have them built into the EJ205 block, or if you’re going to the extent of splitting the block, why not just build up the EJ20k block? Is there something wrong with the 20k block? Cheers Bennie

CV shafts aren’t an issue - same as L series so parts are still available. Best of luck with the sale! Cheers Bennie

Two options for a dual range. That’s interesting. I’ve not known the EA82 dual range to have two different input shaft sizes. My bet would be the 25mm input shaft size - it’s the same as the EJ gear if that helps Cheers Bennie

The other difference not mentioned are springs. Firmer springs will give a better feel on the open road. I know my L series felt much better after the factory springs were binned for aftermarket springs. Same for our Pajero/Montero/Shogun - that's now lifted and drives much better than it did before! Most of this will come down to the aforementioned tyres and alignment. Just thought it worth mentioning differences in springs that should be considered too. Cheers Bennie

Not ok to drive it as it is! Emergency drive to get it home or to a shop maybe, but other than that I wouldn’t be driving it any more than that! Cheers Bennie

Bust out the welder and weld on a new Sturt top section, I’d bring it down the side of the tower and weld around it too. The weld from the inside of the strut tower, seal it up to reduce future rust. Then check the other side. Add a steel strap over the top of that if you feel the need. Ive never seen these rust belt issues, but I’ve read of this happening many times on this forum Cheers Bennie

If it’s dealer fitted it could be listed in the owner’s manual if you’ve still got it. I don’t know why you’d get a dealer fitted AC system when the factory fitted AC is so much neater and a better package overall IMO. I don’t think we got many dealer fitted AC systems if any in the L series. Everything EA81 seems to be very similar to the dealer fitted EA82 AC system, but it still looked quite factory - every unit I’ve seen in the EA81 is the same layout with the same cast iron brackets. Anyway, slightly off topic. Check your owner’s manual for possible details of the belt you require. Cheers Bennie

Can’t have the rad shop weld on a box shaped top to get you going? You won’t see that bit unless you’re really looking anyway, depending on how far down the damage is. If it’s below the tank mounting tabs then it’ll be a bit harder. Or they could make you a complete new unit like a touring car (Aussie race car) “drop tank” - a larger fuel tank than stock. They used to look mint back in the day on the track, and they still tough looking on our Aussie muscle cars in my opinion: ^ that might be a bit extreme for what you want but you get the idea. Shouldn’t be too hard to pull it off and make it look good too Cheers Bennie

Do it yourself! Save the 1200+ for a mechanic to do it. No crane? Three or four blokes can lift the engine out easily enough. You just need some basic tools - flat and Phillips head screw drivers; 10, 12, 14mm spanners and sockets, ratchet and an extension bar should do the trick for tools. Can just get a new clutch disc as this will be the worn part unless the fingers on the pressure plate are well worn and the throw out bearing is making noise (worth replacing this part while you’re in there). Also a good time to drop an EJ22 in there (sorry, had to say it!) Cheers Bennie

Dunno on any other necessary mods as I don’t know the Carter-Weber. The hitachi has an anti-dieseling solenoid that will require power to allow fuel in to do its thing. The auto choke (if it has one) will require power too. If you want to go Weber, someone on the forum modified a factory air cleaner to fit on the Weber. Looked super neat too! All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Stumbled across this website when looking for an image to show you - there’s an EA81 vs EA82 intake manifold pic on this page: https://www.angelfire.com/crazy/bushy5552/weber1.html That should answer all your questions! Cheers Bennie

Yep, the one that holds the starter in place too. Cheers Bennie

You obviously not know about the EA82... Cheers Bennie

Opening the drain plug of a Subaru gearbox will get out 98% of the oil in the box. The drain and some remains is usually to do with Auto transmissions where the torque converter can hold a lot of fluid that doesn’t get drained out. I don’t recommend running ATF in a manual box, unless it’s some sort of mix it even then I would be very cautious, actually I probably still wouldn’t do it! I should’ve added that a “flush” is the term used when fluid is replaced, run for a short period of time, then replaced and run for a short period of time then replaced. You can do this as many times as you like, but I feel it’s usually a waste doing it anymore than once before putting in good fluid. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder.. he’s on a road trip (slow one ) from what I’ve read in other posts, so be patient and he’ll get on to this I’m sure! Cheers Bennie

Buy the diametre size you need and replace as necessary. Bennie

Pull engine down, have the heads shaved to get them flat again. Invest in some quality head gaskets and put it all back together. If you’ve properly overheated the engine you may have softened the metal, no big deal for a putt-putt NA engine. Or EJ it to really bring it to life Cheers Bennie

I can see pics now! That drain plug magnet looks pretty good, I’d consider that normal. Change/flush/drop/replace are all the same thing. Don’t refill the gearbox through a plug hole, use the dip stick - one quirk of the Subaru models that’s really handy! From memory 3.5ltrs is what’s required for the PT4wd box. “to flush or not to flush” - I’ve only ever changed oil in a vehicle that’s new to me. This gives me piece of mind knowing there’s fresh fluid in the various places - and I know what age/quality it is. I’m still yet to change the trans fluid in the auto of our family bus, it’s the last one to do - I’m not looking forward to it, hence why I’ve put it off... Seals: Clean up the area around the old seal, then I jimmy them out with a flat headed screw driver trying not to touch any of the mating surfaces as you don’t want to damage these. Lube the new seal with a rubber grease. Gently tap the new seal in with a hammer and flat punch, be gentle! Subaru seals will last the longest generally. The selector shaft seems to only be available through Subaru. The front diff stub seals are done from the “inside” - you need to remove the “sundial” bearing tensioner. Mark the case and the dial at the same point, count how many times it takes to wind them out until it comes out. Put another mark on the case so you know where to start winding in from. Knockout old seal, lube up new seal (only on the moving surface contact areas), fit new seal, replace dials to the count and marks you made previously. Do one side at a time so you don’t get the parts and your reference marks mixed up - this will change the diff setting that could lead to premature failure. Front diff seals are directional, ensure you fit the correct side according to its designated direction. The seal for the shafts and the big O rings are the same as the Liberty/legacy phase 1 and phase 2 gearboxes with the diff stub axles Cheers Bennie

G’day @bajaleo, What data are you trying to look at? The 1993 is OBDI so connecting for live data I believe is a difficult thing to achieve. If wanting to read codes you’ll need to find the test mode connectors, connect them, then read the flashes from the check engine light. These codes will point you in the direction of the sensors that are having issues. The Oxygen sensor will sometimes not throw any codes, but not function properly, as this could give poor fuel economy and feel like it’s lacking performance. The AFM could be dirty and be giving false readings to the ECU, effecting the performance of the engine. I hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

Having to move seems to be the current theme going on. Our landlords want us to move out so we were given our standard 60 day notice out of the blue. Not good and totally unexpected. So I’m frantically putting one of the projects together so it’s back on all four wheels so we can easily move it! Hopefully finding a suitable place to live won’t be as difficult or as expensive as over here; all housing, whether buying or renting went nuts with the prices skyrocketing just after the pandemic started! All the best, and good work on the engine install. I’m looking forward to reading about a successful start and no leaks etc! Cheers Bennie

Go for an EA82 manifold. It bolts to the EA81 and offers mounting for a slightly larger hitachi carb. It will change the way the hot side radiator hose is routed, it will point in a forwards direction from the front of the engine’s RHS. Factory setup points to the engine’s RHS at the RHS rear of the engine. Cheers Bennie

Don’t split your trans if you don’t have to! Fix the shifter slop, relatively straightforward job, just tricky in the space to work with. You can replace any leaky seals. You won’t have any gaskets leaking, that’s unheard of unless the box was opened up and poorly resealed. The typical sign that your trans is on the way out is odd noises. If it’s whining in a particular gear, or if there’s a noise the winds up with the vehicle speed it typically spells trouble. Change your gearbox oil. If you’ve not done it it’ll be worth the effort and it’s easy to do. If you’re keen to flush metal out use some cheap oil and do several flushes, then put in good oil. Personally I’d just drop the oil and put in good quality oil that meets the requirements in the specs list. The dual range is probably leaking out the various seals, particularly the ones associated with the dual range 4wd system. Do not open up this box - the rear drive transfer is a bloody Pandora’s box of springs, dedent balls and other metal parts that’s a bit of a nightmare to put back together. But it’s awesome when you do get it back together, it works and you didn’t drop any of the parts into the gearbox! Cheers Bennie

Awesome to get an update on this! With the EFI pump you might want to look into running a “swirl pot” or surge tank - have the factory low pressure pump feed into the tank, the EFI pump suck from the tank, fuel return line plumb into the tank and the tank overflow run back into the factory tank (or T in between the low pressure pump and the tank). This will stop the EFI pump starving of fuel and dying prematurely as a result. Plus it’ll help too when off-roading with some of the odd angles we get our vehicles in Looks good though! Cheers Bennie

Some in the early days over here used to split the front hand brake and have two levers to grab one wheel only. This didn’t lose any power from the two wheels on the same axle being braked. Cheers Bennie

I’m sure there were different shaft thicknesses but for what reason I don’t know - probably 2wd vs PT4wd, with the 4wd one being thicker I reckon. Aftermarket axles can do what they want with these items, so it can be hit and miss, not to mention inaccuracies in parts catalogues from time to time. Cheers Bennie