el_freddo

Geez mate, your hospital visit sounds epic. Glad to hear you’re out again. Cheers Bennie

Mine is a 1990 model - and remember it’s a RHD model. I didn’t think there would be any difference between the LHD and RHD models but I could be very wrong on that. I haven’t looked into what wires go to/from the brown fusible link box. I know there’s one main wire from the positive of the battery to the brown box to supply 12v to the fusible links. Cheers Bennie

Check your crank angle sensor and it’s associated wiring for issues. They’re not known to die but anything is possible. Cheers Bennie

The brown box here in my pics are what your chasing in parts 45&46 I hope that gives you a bit of an idea of what you’re chasing. Cheers Bennie

@G3.Spiffy - sorry for not getting back to you earlier. The NA tank without baffles shouldn’t be an issue - I ran my NA MPFI with the carb tank for ages and only had a power lull at times, I think it was the small return line. I never got to the bottom of that one as I swapped the tank out for an EFI unit and upgraded the return line when I went EJ. It could be a blocked filter. I doubt injectors would clear themselves up. You should sort out that TPS issue and get that out of the way. Also check your temp sensor for the ECU. If that’s out of whack it seems it can do some strange things from what I’ve read. @DaveT will be able to throw more light on the temp sensor info. Cheers Bennie

Interesting and looks like a painful part to track down due to lack of numbers out there in comparison to the other ratios! Cheers Bennie

I actually never got back to him as my mate I was helping got one sorted Cheers Bennie

Not even a JDM option to my knowledge. And there’s no 3.08 gear ratio either. Typical first ratios are 3.454 or 3.545, second is 2.something or a high 1.something from memory. There are plenty of charts out there. I don’t even know if the Datsun crew have a 3.08 ratio. I know this ratio was available in the Holdens (Australia). Dunno about fords, not a Ford man. I hope this helps you out somehow. I’m looking forward to hear what you’re up to. Cheers Bennie

Check your engine and trans mounts. Cheers Bennie

When was the last service on the auto completed? Cheers Bennie

To keep things together, this is the previous discussion posted in the 90’s model section (because it’s a late model brumby). Cheers Bennie

Same here for the engine stand as GD said. The phase 2 engine has “8 bolts” but is best described as GD did. The starter motor bolts are two of the eight that hold the engine to the bell housing. Cheers Bennie

On the trans is probably overboard! Engine I can understand, especially if Racecar. Cheers Bennie

That’s a huge facepalm! What were they thinking?! Cheers Bennie

You’ll need: - Engine, air box - wiring loom and ECU - any intercooler stuff - gearbox would be a good idea too, as would rear diff to match the ratio The hardest part is the wiring cut down. Many ppl freak out at this point and give up, but it’s doable with a wiring diagram and some (a lot) of patience. Label EVERYTHING! The other way to go is with an aftermarket loom where you pin it to the engine loom plugs. GD can give you directions on this way and the cost for the system etc. He deals with Link computers/ECUs. There will be a bit of work involved to fit the gearbox but the payoff in traction and general handling will be well worth the effort. You’ll probably need a new crossmember, change the length of the shifter rods and lengthen the prop shaft. If not using the donor vehicle’s gearbox, you’ll need an adaptor plate and to upgrade the clutch to hold the power of the turbo. After this it’s all about hoping you don’t grenade the gearbox, but it will happen at some point! Brakes will need looking at too. You could do a 5 stud conversion but finding the rear hubs for the L series rear stub axles from an XT6 is apparently near impossible these days. There are other dodgy ways around it. The other option is to have the all wheel disc brakes in tip top condition and drive accordingly! That’s the basics of it without going into nitty gritty detail in terms of wiring etc. Cheers Bennie

There’s probably a reason for that...

Yes! GD, I was hoping you’d come through! Good to know the link will do both engines - as you say, ready for the EJ! I agree with GD about the EJ conversion. If your EA82T is performing well, the only mods you should be doing is everything you can to keep it that way - keep the cooling system operating 100% is usually the key. Cheers Bennie

To upload a video simply load to YouTube then drop the video link in here I had trouble hearing it on my phone cranked up. I like heartless’ thoughts on it. My other questions are does your temp gauge sit high? And what model subaru, how many miles etc? If you have the bonnet lifted, can you hear any hissing or gurgling in the engine bay after turning your engine off lie you did above? Lastly, how much driving do you do for this to occur? Does it happen when cold with a start, 30ish second run then shutdown? Or does it need to up to full temp minimum? Cheers Bennie

Drivetrain is the same between L series and the XT. If you need engine, gearbox or suspension parts you’ll be sorted well enough. Body, interior and to a certain degree electrical will be your issues. Cheers Bennie

Easiest bit is probably starting with a fresh wiring loom - no need to cut out the correct wires and no wire intersections where two become one or one becomes two as it is with a factory loom cutdown. @Localun - any EJ engine would be a good choice except the EJ25D. You could even drop a turbo variant in there if you wanted. There’s a few extra bits to cover, namely the slotting of the engine crossmember for the turbo up pipe (or source a turbo crossmember). I’d also recommend running an AWD gearbox especially if going for the turbo option. The rear end of a 4wd L series is what you need for this. If you can get a turbo rear end you’ll get the rear sway bar and rear 4wd disc brakes too. Cheers Bennie

Steering lock will still work. From memory it operates off the shaft between the barrel and the ignition switch. It’s been a while since I’ve had one apart so I’m a bit hazy on the exact details how it works. The shaft is held in by the ignition barrel, the only way to remove the shaft is by pulling the barrel out. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

You can remove the cowling around the steering column to access the ignition switch behind the ignition barrel. It’s held in by two small Phillips head screws. It’s odd for the switch to just drop out from the back of the barrel if that’s what it’s done. All so weird is the headlights not working, they should work in all positions unless someone completed some home wiring to change that setup. Cheers Bennie

Yep, that’s what they work with. Cheers Bennie

Good bit of kit from what I’ve heard from those that have them. It’s impossible to drop the sump plug in the oil drain pan with one of these valves. Cheers Bennie

What GD said. There’s simply not enough grease in these bearings from the packaging to get the best life usage out of them. If fitted directly from the packaging you can expect to be doing them again in a very short amount of time. Remove the inner seals and pack with quality grease as GD said and you’ll have many miles of use from them without issues, much like the original units. The EA81 runs the same bearings as the EA82 up front and the same ones out the back too. The difference in the front kit is the oil seals are a different size. Rears *I think* from memory are the same seals. Cheers Bennie