el_freddo

Check your engine and trans mounts. Cheers Bennie

When was the last service on the auto completed? Cheers Bennie

To keep things together, this is the previous discussion posted in the 90’s model section (because it’s a late model brumby). Cheers Bennie

Same here for the engine stand as GD said. The phase 2 engine has “8 bolts” but is best described as GD did. The starter motor bolts are two of the eight that hold the engine to the bell housing. Cheers Bennie

On the trans is probably overboard! Engine I can understand, especially if Racecar. Cheers Bennie

That’s a huge facepalm! What were they thinking?! Cheers Bennie

You’ll need: - Engine, air box - wiring loom and ECU - any intercooler stuff - gearbox would be a good idea too, as would rear diff to match the ratio The hardest part is the wiring cut down. Many ppl freak out at this point and give up, but it’s doable with a wiring diagram and some (a lot) of patience. Label EVERYTHING! The other way to go is with an aftermarket loom where you pin it to the engine loom plugs. GD can give you directions on this way and the cost for the system etc. He deals with Link computers/ECUs. There will be a bit of work involved to fit the gearbox but the payoff in traction and general handling will be well worth the effort. You’ll probably need a new crossmember, change the length of the shifter rods and lengthen the prop shaft. If not using the donor vehicle’s gearbox, you’ll need an adaptor plate and to upgrade the clutch to hold the power of the turbo. After this it’s all about hoping you don’t grenade the gearbox, but it will happen at some point! Brakes will need looking at too. You could do a 5 stud conversion but finding the rear hubs for the L series rear stub axles from an XT6 is apparently near impossible these days. There are other dodgy ways around it. The other option is to have the all wheel disc brakes in tip top condition and drive accordingly! That’s the basics of it without going into nitty gritty detail in terms of wiring etc. Cheers Bennie

There’s probably a reason for that...

Yes! GD, I was hoping you’d come through! Good to know the link will do both engines - as you say, ready for the EJ! I agree with GD about the EJ conversion. If your EA82T is performing well, the only mods you should be doing is everything you can to keep it that way - keep the cooling system operating 100% is usually the key. Cheers Bennie

To upload a video simply load to YouTube then drop the video link in here I had trouble hearing it on my phone cranked up. I like heartless’ thoughts on it. My other questions are does your temp gauge sit high? And what model subaru, how many miles etc? If you have the bonnet lifted, can you hear any hissing or gurgling in the engine bay after turning your engine off lie you did above? Lastly, how much driving do you do for this to occur? Does it happen when cold with a start, 30ish second run then shutdown? Or does it need to up to full temp minimum? Cheers Bennie

Drivetrain is the same between L series and the XT. If you need engine, gearbox or suspension parts you’ll be sorted well enough. Body, interior and to a certain degree electrical will be your issues. Cheers Bennie

Easiest bit is probably starting with a fresh wiring loom - no need to cut out the correct wires and no wire intersections where two become one or one becomes two as it is with a factory loom cutdown. @Localun - any EJ engine would be a good choice except the EJ25D. You could even drop a turbo variant in there if you wanted. There’s a few extra bits to cover, namely the slotting of the engine crossmember for the turbo up pipe (or source a turbo crossmember). I’d also recommend running an AWD gearbox especially if going for the turbo option. The rear end of a 4wd L series is what you need for this. If you can get a turbo rear end you’ll get the rear sway bar and rear 4wd disc brakes too. Cheers Bennie

Steering lock will still work. From memory it operates off the shaft between the barrel and the ignition switch. It’s been a while since I’ve had one apart so I’m a bit hazy on the exact details how it works. The shaft is held in by the ignition barrel, the only way to remove the shaft is by pulling the barrel out. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

You can remove the cowling around the steering column to access the ignition switch behind the ignition barrel. It’s held in by two small Phillips head screws. It’s odd for the switch to just drop out from the back of the barrel if that’s what it’s done. All so weird is the headlights not working, they should work in all positions unless someone completed some home wiring to change that setup. Cheers Bennie

Yep, that’s what they work with. Cheers Bennie

Good bit of kit from what I’ve heard from those that have them. It’s impossible to drop the sump plug in the oil drain pan with one of these valves. Cheers Bennie

What GD said. There’s simply not enough grease in these bearings from the packaging to get the best life usage out of them. If fitted directly from the packaging you can expect to be doing them again in a very short amount of time. Remove the inner seals and pack with quality grease as GD said and you’ll have many miles of use from them without issues, much like the original units. The EA81 runs the same bearings as the EA82 up front and the same ones out the back too. The difference in the front kit is the oil seals are a different size. Rears *I think* from memory are the same seals. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like they’re trying to use that relay as an ignition switch replacement. By one wire “joining” another, do you mean two wires into one or the coloured wire listed then turns into the next listed colour, remaining as one wire in the system (like a piece of wire added to lengthen the factory wiring)? Time to bust out a multi meter and find out which of those unknown wires are earths. If no earth wires are in there it’s time to put power to each wire individually to see what that wire operates - you might have to go and flick switches in the car to find out. There could be multiple items on one wire. Draw a diagram to keep reference Some of those wires sound like main power or main switches power wires for accessories. This is partly concerning as the load on that relay is most likely too great for it to properly handle, plus there’s a question around how these wires are fused between the battery and the relay. You might also find some of these wires (or all!) are the main switches power wires to the fuse box under the dashboard. After you’ve done all of the above, it’s time to work out what they cut out, why, and what they were intending to achieve. Then reverse their work back to the factory setup or to something that’s safer and more serviceable for you to work with. Sorry for the essay! I feel like you’re close to having this one sorted with a bit of work involved! Cheers Bennie

Yep, as six star said about the pins. Also double check the gearbox input shaft size. Typically the 2wd is smaller than the 4wd one. Swapping clutch discs will solve this if it’s an issue (it will be noticeably different in diametre by eye). Is the wagon in good condition? Would be a shame to see it wrecked if it’s in good nick. There’s more brumbys than wagons around over here now... and even less sedans and less coupes! I’d love a wagon and/or a coupe! Cheers Bennie

Welcome @wolp! I see you’re in Melbourne, I’m in Bendigo! Always good to see another Aussie on the forum! Cheers Bennie

G’day @wolp This post would best serve you in the 80’s section since the Brumby is an EA81. The Aust market is probably the last market to get the legendary brumby/brat/MV model! Your issue to me sounds like the electronic ignition module inside the dizzy. We were just talking about these in another thread recently. They look like this: and it’s located in the dizzy. There’s a four point star piece that needs to be removed off the shaft to remove the ignition module. Take note of which way up this goes. Two flathead screw drivers do the trick to leaver it out. Other thought was the anti dieseling solenoid playing funny buggers when hot - or a dodgy ignition switch. Last idea is a dying fuel pump that starves the car of fuel, or a severely blocked fuel filter. I had the blocked filter issue occur along long inclines or up short sharp hills when accelerating through the gears. Cheers Bennie

This is the item that dies with heat in the dizzy: I don’t know if they run a condenser with the electronic module. Your intermittent issue with the engine at or near running temp points t this module being the issue. It’s probably the original unit in there! If you ever get a sudden shutdown and no start issue, replace the coil for NEW and then replace this module. When this shutdown and no start issue occurs, the coil dies taking out the ignition module with it. I found out the hard way and killed a brand new module before I learned about the dead coil killing the module too... that wasn’t fun. Cheers Bennie

Did you match the correct spark plug to the correct spark lead or coil pack? That’s the first thing that comes to mind - something simple. Those compression readings, did you only do them once or go around for a second shot? They seem to be quite wide spread for what’s considered anything healthy That’s all I’ve got. Hopefully someone can chime in and give some extra advice. Cheers Bennie

I got cracking into this good and proper recently. Still have several things to line up before it ends up on Ruby Scoo: Should be good once it’s done Cheers Bennie

Awesome @6 Star - you pics demonstrate that all those plugs I was talking about earlier are LHD specific. I don’t have any of those in that location on my RHD loom. I wonder what they’re for... I don’t know what those two black things are in the last pic, I know I don’t have any of those on my brumby. I also don’t know what that black box with the blue plug mounted on the strut tower near the coil is. Same for the black box mounted on the coil. @OldieSubie - don’t forget to check out the manuals for other models of the same year as many will be the same in the wiring department - or at least the same enough to work it out Many free online manuals available. Cheers Bennie